Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

'19 3500 L5P (black/black)  Over 100 today and AC isn't working.  My guess is the climate control computer got really hot and that caused it.  Was in direct sun for about 3 hours.  After leaving in shade at home, it's now working.  Pretty lame.  Anyone have this issue? Is there a fix?  Hate to waste a day at the dealer just to be told is a-okay.  (Compressor clutch wasn't engaging, by the way.  Ice cold now that it's working again). Thanks.

Posted

I'm in hot humid Louisiana and must say my a/c works great and haven't had a problem all summer.  100° temps with 115° heat index and blows 38° out the vents.  Hope your a/c isn't on the brink of going out like another members here did.  The whole interior, dash, seats had to come out to change a leaking evaporator.  Not a pretty sight...

20190710_142442.jpg

Posted (edited)

Here's (from a member Bill) what an interior of a '19 looks like when changing an evaporator...

5d28cf88a04fd_2019-07-1213_46_31.jpg.78b5113ad15bccf4bf83ab5ca6cbffa9.jpg

5d38d8c7079b2_2019-07-1909_26_53.jpg.30c370fabf96236ea22b041bd7e62a15.jpg

Edited by mafd2
Posted
6 minutes ago, deminimis said:

Ugggh.

Yep... I never followed up with him to see how the outcome was.

Posted

I imagine it's a computer board that just can't handle the heat.  Worked fine once I parked in the shade after a couple hours.  Works fine this AM as well.  My guess is they won't be able to diagnose the problem this season.  Guess I better turn that appointment into an oil change as well so I don't completely waste my time.

Posted

Took it in.  Freon was low.  No leak detected.  Dye added in hopes of finding the leak.  Still not sure that was the cause as it only failed on a 100 degree day, but perhaps.  Unfortunately, no more 100 degrees this year. Got my heater plug cut off and an unexpected bonus :-(

Posted

If the evaporator has a tiny leak I don't think the dye will show due to it's location. I hope it's not the evaporator. 

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, deminimis said:

Took it in.  Freon was low.  No leak detected.  Dye added in hopes of finding the leak.  Still not sure that was the cause as it only failed on a 100 degree day, but perhaps.  Unfortunately, no more 100 degrees this year. Got my heater plug cut off and an unexpected bonus :-(

Mine goes in for the second time next week for weak AC on the drivers side.  Last time it was 0.2kg low on Freon.  Worked fine for a month, now it's failing again.  I suspect there's a leak even though they pressure tested it.  They said they should have put dye in last time, so hopefully they can see the leak this time.  If not it'll be a recharge and dye, and wait for it to fail again. 

Posted (edited)
20 hours ago, deminimis said:

Took it in.  Freon was low.  No leak detected.  Dye added in hopes of finding the leak.  Still not sure that was the cause as it only failed on a 100 degree day, but perhaps.  Unfortunately, no more 100 degrees this year. Got my heater plug cut off and an unexpected bonus :-(

It's not the sun overheating anything, its cheap rubbish made parts. Go look at the 14-18 forums to see what great pieces of crap gm a/c parts consist of these days. Mine lasted 3 1/2 years at least, and 32k before it decided to leak from oh the lines, the evap, the condenser, only original piece left now is the compressor and i heard those are not much better. Looks like they are using the same low quality components that are guaranteed to fail at some point.

Edited by BIGDOGx
  • 9 months later...
Posted

2020 GMC Sierra 1500 

 

Sounds like I have the same issue as some of you.  Driver side air conditioning is not cold.  Took it in with 1200 miles - refrigerant was low.  Service re-charged refrigerant and put in green dye.  Same issue came back 3 weeks later.  Refrigerant was 50%.  Clearly a leak but they cannot detect the leak.  They are saying they may have to replace/repair the evaporator (which is a pretty invasive fix).  Possibly the condenser.  

 

Has anyone had this issue resolved?  What was the solution in your case?  

Posted

I'm having the same issue now on my 2019 Silverado. Air cold on passenger side,  hot on drivers side with temps set at same level. Will be taking it in this week to check it out.

Posted
On 8/28/2019 at 9:46 PM, mafd2 said:

Here's (from a member Bill) what an interior of a '19 looks like when changing an evaporator...

5d28cf88a04fd_2019-07-1213_46_31.jpg.78b5113ad15bccf4bf83ab5ca6cbffa9.jpg

5d38d8c7079b2_2019-07-1909_26_53.jpg.30c370fabf96236ea22b041bd7e62a15.jpg

It never goes back the way it was always something after that seen alot of that at the dealerships

Posted
On 9/6/2019 at 8:55 AM, BIGDOGx said:

It's not the sun overheating anything, its cheap rubbish made parts. Go look at the 14-18 forums to see what great pieces of crap gm a/c parts consist of these days. Mine lasted 3 1/2 years at least, and 32k before it decided to leak from oh the lines, the evap, the condenser, only original piece left now is the compressor and i heard those are not much better. Looks like they are using the same low quality components that are guaranteed to fail at some point.

yes sir just as bad if not worse here the amount of plastic is insane 

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

I will now be on my 5th attempt at fixing it later today.  Anyone ever get a resolution on the drivers side no AC?  I've had 3 recharges, and 1 damper accuator replacement.  No luck still, and no sign of the dye from the leak.  I have a feeling my truck will soon look like truck pictured above.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • not all plugs will be used.  gm uses more generic harnesses that support most/all options, and if your truck doesn't have a specfiic option, the plug won't be used (commonly will have a dummy insert in the plug , or it'll be taped up, but some may just be left as is).  But it's sldo possible some p.o. has installed the wrong/cheaper parts that aren't correct for your vehicle...
    • First off, I'm not trying to just get easy advice/fixes for the issues I've noticed so far.  I'll be combing through the site via searches and such, and if past experiences are any indication, should find what I need.  For the sake of conversation, though, I figured I'd post the handful of things I've noticed in the 12 hours since buying my 2010 SLE CCSB.     Indicator lights: Airbag and TPMS.  The tire pressures aren't reading for any of the wheels, so I'm pretty certain the sensors were either removed, are damaged, or are otherwise inoperable.  I used to mount and balance tires 25 years ago but am pretty much ignorant when it comes to TPMS.  My 2006 didn't have the sensors and this might be the fourth vehicle I've owned that does.     Radio: Rear speakers aren't working.  I removed the driver's side rear door panel and checked the speaker and wiring.  I also removed the sill and b-pillar covers to check the wiring.  A few minutes of Google Fu showed that this is potentially a head unit issue.    Switches: Power mirrors don't turn left/right.  I ordered replacement driver's door switches that should arrive tomorrow.  The windows and locks work but it was only about $20 for all of them.  The driver's side rear window switch lets the window down but won't put it back up.  I think the passenger rear doesn't work at all.  In the coming days/weeks, I'll break out my multimeter to check all of that.   Unknown wiring harness: There's a box attached to the front driver's side of the engine compartment, right where the second battery shelf is located.  There are three plugs, one of which looks like it fits a standard headlight-style bulb (9007 or similar).  It doesn't look like it's plugged into anything.  I'll do some digging and if I don't see anything elsewhere on the site, post some pictures here.   Unknown plugs on brake booster: There are at least two female plugs on the brake booster that aren't being used.  I think it might be a replacement/aftermarket, so maybe those are used for a different application, as there don't seem to be any unplugged harnesses and no indicator lights are on.   Little squeaks when turning: Sounds almost like a bushing around the bed of the truck.  I'll have to pay close attention as I get more familiar with the truck.   Clunk on acceleration: possibly the infamous drivetrain clunk.  My 2006 had it and I'm just not familiar enough with this truck yet to fully grasp what it is.   Anyway, my apologies for the vague and all over the place post.  This truck is new to me, and it's been four years since I drove my 2006.  With 200k miles, I know I'll need to learn this truck quickly to avoid having any major issues, despite being confident it's got much more life to it.  My 2006 had nearly 320k on it when I parked it (nearly 300k of which I put on the truck), and it was still drivable then, though I suspected the head gasket might have blown.  I'd hoped to have that truck back by now, but it's gone forever, as I detailed in my reintroduction thread.  
    • I always drive in Sport mode. With more driving, I am finding the initial response when accelerating is much quicker now🖕 Lou
    • Is it an optical illusion in the pic or is the truck really squatting that much horribly?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...