Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

looking at the new 2500 HDs.....the gvw on these trucks are over 10k. obviously once over 10k you enter a whole new game of bullshit. is this new? i mean my 2015 3500 has the derating to 9999 or whatever. i didn't think the 3/4 tons passed the 10k mark. 

Posted

looking into it further...if you want nice wheels, you have to have the 10,6 GVW. if you want to keep it at 10 you have to have 17" rims. not sure what their reasoning is for this.....but in MA over 10k you need USDOT numbers, if you travel more than 100 miles from home base you need a log book, medical card, etc. its already a pain for my one ton dump i dont need it in a regular pickup.

Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, tom18287 said:

looking into it further...if you want nice wheels, you have to have the 10,6 GVW. if you want to keep it at 10 you have to have 17" rims. not sure what their reasoning is for this.....but in MA over 10k you need USDOT numbers, if you travel more than 100 miles from home base you need a log book, medical card, etc. its already a pain for my one ton dump i dont need it in a regular pickup.

You can order any 2500 with CGO option that will restrict to 10,000 lb gvw in US and 9900 lb in Canada.

 

#iworkforGM 

Edited by MTU Alum
Posted
3 hours ago, tom18287 said:

looking into it further...if you want nice wheels, you have to have the 10,6 GVW. if you want to keep it at 10 you have to have 17" rims. not sure what their reasoning is for this.....but in MA over 10k you need USDOT numbers, if you travel more than 100 miles from home base you need a log book, medical card, etc. its already a pain for my one ton dump i dont need it in a regular pickup.

Are you using it for commercial purposes? Even in MA it appears to state it is exempt for private use. DOT regulations also seem to state that vehicles exceeding that threshold that are used for Commerce must register. Private use appears to be exempt from DOT - but states may require different drivers licenses when you add trailers (even for private use). There are states that offer CDL type licenses when your rig exceeds 26,001 GVWR, without the Commercial part for things like RV’s and such. Some states require that type of license when you have a 10K+ trailer even if the GVWR is less than 26,000lbs. The key to any of it is whether or not it is used in commercial applications. Some states force a commercial registration for pickup trucks regardless, but there are still exemptions for private use.

Posted
On ‎9‎/‎15‎/‎2019 at 8:02 AM, tom18287 said:

looking at the new 2500 HDs.....the gvw on these trucks are over 10k. obviously once over 10k you enter a whole new game of bullshit. is this new? i mean my 2015 3500 has the derating to 9999 or whatever. i didn't think the 3/4 tons passed the 10k mark. 

 

The new trucks all picked up on GVWR big time.  The 2500hd trucks are GVWR'd almost at the 2015-2019 3500hd trucks.

 

You can de-rate from the factory to 10,000lbs GVWR.  The way I read it from GM, over 10,000gvwr for business, you need your DOT stuff in line.

 

The build code for de-rate to 10,000lbs is C7A.

 

C7A from the order guide:
 

Quote

 

 


GVWR, 10,000 lbs. (4536 kg)
1 - CC20903, CK20903 and CC20753 models require (L8T) 6.6L V8 gas engine. (L5P) Duramax 6.6L Turbo-Diesel V8 engine is not available on the following models: CC20903, CK20903 and CC20753.  This applies to WT trim.

 


2 - CC20903, CK20903 and CC20753 models require (L8T) 6.6L V8 gas engine. When ordered with (ZW9) pickup bed delete, includes hard touch instrument panel-top pad. (L5P) Duramax 6.6L Turbo-Diesel V8 engine is not available on the following models: CC20903, CK20903 and CC20753.  This applies to LT trim.


3 - CC20753 models require (L8T) 6.6L V8 gas engine. When ordered with (ZW9) pickup bed delete, includes hard touch instrument panel-top pad. (L5P) Duramax 6.6L Turbo-Diesel V8 engine is not available on the following models: CC20753.  This applies to LTZ trim.

 

 

With de-rate, keep in mind you will lose payload and you will lose about 5% of tow rating over a non de-rated truck.  If diesel, you will lose a lot of 5th wheel rating. 

 

On ‎9‎/‎15‎/‎2019 at 11:56 AM, MTU Alum said:

ou can order any 2500 with CGO option that will restrict to 10,000 lb gvw in US and 9900 lb in Canada.

 

#iworkforGM 

 

RPO CGO de-rate applies to Custom and High Country trim with 20" wheels only per GM.  However, per the vehicle order guide, CGO isn't even listed as a GVWR RPO code, just C7A.   

 

#iworkforGMtoo

Posted (edited)
On 9/15/2019 at 7:33 AM, tom18287 said:

looking into it further...if you want nice wheels, you have to have the 10,6 GVW. if you want to keep it at 10 you have to have 17" rims. not sure what their reasoning is for this.....but in MA over 10k you need USDOT numbers, if you travel more than 100 miles from home base you need a log book, medical card, etc. its already a pain for my one ton dump i dont need it in a regular pickup.

Not for personal use.  NO truck or RV operator is required to have medical card, log book, CDL, DOT numbers, etc.  Those requirements for commercial vehicle operators, such as running a dump truck that you mentioned.   By it very name.... Commercial Drivers License... says it all.  It is not required for personal vehicle operators.  As was stated, there may be some additional license requirements by some states that require endorsements on the standard drivers license, but the majority have no such requirements.

 

I am in commercial trucking. If I decide at some point to quit the business and use my semi tractor to tow around a large 5th wheel RV, I will not be required to have medical card, DOT numbers, log book, etc....  intrastate or interstate.    I will probably just keep my CDL as it is my normal driving license anyway, including Motorcycle endorsement.  It would be stupid to chuck it out the window.  

Edited by Cowpie
  • Like 3
  • 4 months later...
Posted
On 9/17/2019 at 4:38 PM, newdude said:

 

The new trucks all picked up on GVWR big time.  The 2500hd trucks are GVWR'd almost at the 2015-2019 3500hd trucks.

 

You can de-rate from the factory to 10,000lbs GVWR.  The way I read it from GM, over 10,000gvwr for business, you need your DOT stuff in line.

 

The build code for de-rate to 10,000lbs is C7A.

 

C7A from the order guide:
 

 

With de-rate, keep in mind you will lose payload and you will lose about 5% of tow rating over a non de-rated truck.  If diesel, you will lose a lot of 5th wheel rating. 

 

 

RPO CGO de-rate applies to Custom and High Country trim with 20" wheels only per GM.  However, per the vehicle order guide, CGO isn't even listed as a GVWR RPO code, just C7A.   

 

#iworkforGMtoo

Where can I find more Information on this? 
when ordering a 2020 Sierra through my dealership in MA selecting the C7A code for 10,000 gvwr triggers federal emissions or California emissions(can’t remember which one) why would the gvwr change the emissions? Really don’t want to deal with the DOT number deal on this truck. 
 

thanks

kevin  

Posted (edited)
18 minutes ago, kag01510 said:

Where can I find more Information on this? 
when ordering a 2020 Sierra through my dealership in MA selecting the C7A code for 10,000 gvwr triggers federal emissions or California emissions(can’t remember which one) why would the gvwr change the emissions? Really don’t want to deal with the DOT number deal on this truck. 
 

thanks

kevin  

 

Are you trying to order a Denali?  If so, Denali can't be de-rated per the order guide if the truck requires NE1 or YF5 emissions:

 

https://www.gmfleetorderguide.com/NASApp/domestic/proddesc.jsp?year=2020&regionID=1&divisionID=2&type=0&vehicleID=21695&section=oi_def&page=6&butID=3

 

Quote

 

NE1:  Emissions, Connecticut, Delaware, Maine, Maryland, Massachusetts, New Jersey, New York, Oregon, Pennsylvania, Rhode Island, Vermont and Washington state requirements

 

YF5:  Emissions, California state requirements

 

GVWR, 10,000 lbs. (4536 kg)
1 - Available to all models with L8T Gas Engine. L5P Diesel requires TK20*53 or T*20*43 models. L5P Diesel Not Available with TC20743 or any Regular Cab models.
2 - Available to all models with L8T Gas Engine. L5P Diesel requires TK20*53 or T*20*43 models. L5P Diesel Not Available with TC20743 or any Regular Cab models. When ordered with (ZW9) pickup bed delete, includes hard touch instrument panel-top pad.
3 - Available to all models with L8T Gas Engine. L5P Diesel requires TK20*53 or T*20*43 models. L5P Diesel Not Available with TC20743. When ordered with (ZW9) pickup bed delete, includes hard touch instrument panel-top pad.
4 - Not available with (YF5) or (NE1) emissions.

 

 

Massachusetts is one of the 12 states that follows California emissions requirements for vehicles, so when they are configuring the truck, its forcing NE1 due to where you live, and then removes the C7A option.  

 

Base, SLE, AT4 and SLT aren't affected for C7A.  

Edited by newdude
Posted (edited)

Sorry should have elaborated,

 

the truck is 2020 GMC Sierra 2500 Double Cab SLT with 6.6 gas, the GVWR auto populated to 10,550. 
 

when applying code C7A it’s removing NE1 and forcing either YF5 or FE9 I believe(ill have to ask the dealer which one it forces again)

 

Is this an issue in MA?
 

my dealership advised against it after he couldn’t find a solid answer. 

Edited by kag01510
Posted
4 hours ago, kag01510 said:

Sorry should have elaborated,

 

the truck is 2020 GMC Sierra 2500 Double Cab SLT with 6.6 gas, the GVWR auto populated to 10,550. 
 

when applying code C7A it’s removing NE1 and forcing either YF5 or FE9 I believe(ill have to ask the dealer which one it forces again)

 

Is this an issue in MA?
 

my dealership advised against it after he couldn’t find a solid answer. 

 

Its probably trying to force FE9 federal emissions on it is my guess.  Being MA is one of the 13 Cali emissions states, it might be a problem.  Not sure how that will play out really unless they try to put the order through :dunno:

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Ok guys. For the guys who know more than the dealerships and all. Small business owner here in California. Do I really need to derate the truck to 10000 or else I need to get dot # and what about cdl? Does this actually come up in real life? I’m not even really going to be towing certainly not big things. I want the muscle and 3/4 for lumber loads etc for my construction company. What’s the truth about what I need to consider here?

Posted

I would suggest contacting the DMV, your state police, and/or the DOT for that info.

 

Do you really want to get into an argument with a DOT guy starting off with "Some guy on the internet told me...."

  • Like 2
Posted
9 hours ago, Kfroese said:

Ok guys. For the guys who know more than the dealerships and all. Small business owner here in California. Do I really need to derate the truck to 10000 or else I need to get dot # and what about cdl? Does this actually come up in real life? I’m not even really going to be towing certainly not big things. I want the muscle and 3/4 for lumber loads etc for my construction company. What’s the truth about what I need to consider here?

DOT certified inspector here, not a police officer, i own an OTR trucking company and personally do annual inspections on semi trucks and trailers to ensure they are road worthy.    If a pickup and trailer in combo has a GCWR over 26,000 you technically need a CDL and dot#'s IF AND ONLY IF ITS FOR COMMERCIAL PURPOSES. If its personal use i am nearly certain NO state requires anything special, its when it falls under business use that it becomes an issue. 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Yes they are a good addition to make the truck more visible.   I have the OE ones in the lower front corners. I added some amber fogs to the bumper from Diode Dynamics SS6 model and wired them to my upfitter switches.   
    • I had an issue with a new 1985 Z-28 some years ago. The 4WDB's were less than adequate when purchased IMO.  I had taken it in for small warranty services and asked them on three occasions to check them. Each time is was "could not duplicate on the service ticket. The warranty ran out about a month after my last visit and had to take it back for warranty rework. I again complained about the brakes. Well, low and behold, this time they determined the rear calipers were sticking and gave me a quote to repair. They had records as well as O had receipts of each time complained about the brakes while still under warranty. My dad was a life long body shop owner and told me to keep my cool and tell them that I wanted to speak to the GM Regional District Manager. The service manager disappeared for a few minutes, came back and told me they would replace the calipers free of charge. 
    • Towing a 2022 Lance 24 ft travel trailer with our 2021 GMC Sierra 2500HD, gas.  Loaded, trailer is about 6,000 lb.  We get up to 10 mpg at 55 mpg, such as I-5.  Pleased with the combination.
    • I decided to give it a shot and see what sort of a gong show it would be to a pan drop themed oil change on my 2025 gas truck with the 10 speed. All indications I had seen so far was that there was no way that pan was coming out of there due to the cross over exhaust pipe not allowing enough clearance for the back end of the pan to duck out from under the valve body since it hangs lower than the pan to trans mount flange and certainly the filter does. I never touched any of the exhaust mount hardware at all, be that the engine manifolds to Y pipe, the bracket on the side of the transmission, or the two bolt flange further back behind the trans/transfer case. I put the truck up on four jack stands as there was no way I was going to struggle with that lack of clearance under the truck. The truck was cold as it had sat over night so all the trans fluid had drained to the pan, so I drained the bit of oil that would come out of the level check plug at the bottom near the front of the pan and put the plug back in to reduce the ensuing mess after that. Then took out all but one bolt front and rear and then pushed up on the pan and took out the remaining two bolts and then let the front of the pan tilt and spill out most of its contents into a drain pan. I then popped the pan gasket off its two locating nubs and kicked it a bit to the left side so it was no longer on the flange of the pan to get all the clearance I could and managed to get the pan slipped out of there by swinging the front of the pan to the right but keeping the rear part of the pan inline if not slightly to the left of its mounting flange area and lifting the front of the pan enough to keep the rear part of the pan low enough that allowed the pan to "JUST" slip out without forcing anything. I installed a new trans filter and seal and as per GM instructions on this site I torqued the two bolts to that 44 inch pound goal ( they take an 8 mm socket ) In reversing the pan procedure after I had cleaned up the pan both inside and out completely ( touching the outside of a dirty pan and dealing with installing a gasket at the same time would be a disaster ). First I slipped the pan into place and yes it took me a while as it won't go unless its slid in just at the right angles, then once the back of the pan was into the area of the flange mount, I went and got the gasket and then threaded that through the front of the pan and feeding it under the filter etc and finally working it onto the flange of the pan and lining up the two locating nubs to drop into the pan. Then lifted the pan up into place and get a couple of bolts started and check and make sure the gasket is where its supposed to be as the bolts were being put in. I never used any power tools as I don't have any of the whimsy little drive guns, I use what looks like a small screw driver handle with shank that has a 1/4 drive on the end of it and added an extension and those bolts use a 10 mm socket as some times power tools can bite a person if used on delicate parts ( torqued to 80 inch pounds ). Also should note as per rules around pulling the add plug out first, yes I cracked that loose with a 8 mm Allen bit socket on a 3/8 slim head ratchet as there isn't a lot of room to work with there either due to the exhaust on the right side of the trans.    I already had delco ULV oil on hand and of course the quart bottle pump wasn't made for those small cap threads so I had to use some other containers that the pump would fit and keep transferring oil over into them so a wasted exercise there but indeed the small pump did work just fine as ULV oil is thin and easy to pump in summer time weather. I put in 9.5 quarts as per prior minimum recommendation and yes that cut it pretty close as once I had the truck ( off the jack stands so its level ) and the trans oil up to 167f , about 6 ounces came out but a level kit or what have you could throw it off just enough that it wouldn't be enough oil so probably that 10 quarts is a good amount to put in so one doesn't have to add more oil as when its hot I sure wouldn't want to be adding oil so would have to let the exhaust cool. All I do for warming up the transmission is sit there with it in park and rev it to about 2500 rpm and it takes close to 20 minutes to get it up to that lower limit of 167f, weird how it will warm up more doing that then by driving it, I am not real keen on power braking the truck to get the temp up there and don't seem to have to either. By the way I only have 9000 miles on the truck so probably not a very good payback on doing it that soon and the magnets had such a minor thin layer of fines on them so that was good to see and the color of the oil was a darker red then new oil but still looked very good as it should and I've not done any towing with it so its been living a pretty easy life so far. The filter is made in such a way that its next to impossible to pull out the filter media but there certainly was some fines showing up there which makes sense give the trans having to break in.    I hadn't really planned on explaining this much of what I had done since there are various instruction videos kicking around or I think so, as the gist of my message as that by fluke or what have you, for some reason my truck has just enough clearance to slip the pan out from the trans. Of course there is no guarantee that other trucks like this in general will also allow the pan to be taken out without messing with the exhaust as I expect its probably a crap shoot if it will or won't, I was just happy to find out that mine would work and avoid all the other struggling and possibly damaging things in the process,     
    • Do you fellas think Fog Lamps would  be a good upgrade for our 2024 2500 HD Custom ? As you probably know it did not come with them ,  Would you put in GM Chevy parts ? Do they get wired up to the switch panel ( Upfitter or whatever the correct terminology is ) on the dash ? Thanks
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...