Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Does anyone of pics of their tinted tail lights? Tried to search but couldn’t find any one the forum. Trying to decide to tint mine or not when I bring it in for window tint and to black out the badges. 

Posted

Not a safety issue when done right. Reflect and lights still same. Also on our led the output brightness is much better and we have 3 sets of lights

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

 

On 9/17/2019 at 10:01 AM, Pharmhokie said:

Does anyone of pics of their tinted tail lights? Tried to search but couldn’t find any one the forum. Trying to decide to tint mine or not when I bring it in for window tint and to black out the badges. 

 

1673F44F-2B3D-4D22-B601-D49B665953CA.jpeg

  • Like 3
Posted
23 hours ago, Nola Sciko said:

Not my truck. But it does belong to another member on this page

20190917_174336.jpg

Hahah. That’s mine. These are tail light covers I got from Car Id 

  • Like 1
Posted

Best product is the smoked tint. It is of the wrap style material. I also have had paint shops wet sand and Night shade style paint them. As far as what lasts and looks best, professional tint. And it will come off but not as easy as the film. Both these options allow most all the light through. That said if you have a incandescent style build still swap out to a bright good brand led. The Samsung LEDs are built proof I have them everywhere. Even on my deck on the lake in the winter exposed and on every night...zero issues.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Posted

Luxe concepts and vvivid seem to have some of the best I’ve seen so far as far as self adhesive films go.

Posted
3 hours ago, dctackett10 said:

Hahah. That’s mine. These are tail light covers I got from Car Id 

Do you keep em on for night driving? They shine though ok?

Posted
11 hours ago, michael betz said:

Do you keep em on for night driving? They shine though ok?

Yea. No problem at night. They shine through really good 

  • 4 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,859
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    needafix
    Newest Member
    needafix
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 624 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • .30” of rain all month and it’s been weeks since that. “Mowed” our two properties today for the first time since July 2nd. It only took 30 minutes because all I had to do was level some weeds and saplings in a few problem areas. Everything else is dead.
    • Dealer reported a failed shifter module assembly so the whole shifter is getting replaced. Yet another premature repair… up to $12,000+ in extended warranty payout in only 5 years and 80,000 miles! 
    • According to the dealer it’s an internal leak/failure of the compressor.  Again, another failure that shouldn’t happen at only 5 years and 80k miles.  For some reason the compressors must be hard to come by right now, because the truck’s been at the dealer almost a week and they just located a compressor at another dealer several states away today.  We’ll see if this fixes the issue.  
    • I'm not sure if this should be a reply on this thread or a new topic, let me know if it's out of place. This my first post. Thanks 85077522 - ACDelco GM Genuine Parts Brake Master Cylinders. Anyone else had to replace this brake master cylinder yet. I didn't do any brake work, it looks like new parts and I've had the truck for about 4k miles. When it started to throw codes I did the calibrations with a bidirectional scanner and got the codes to clear but they came back so i did the routine; base bleed, automated bleed and final base bleed. All that with Bosch ES16-32N fluid (please look it up). That seemed to fix it but 100ish miles later it failed again so I ran the same process but with a pressure bleeder this time and got the same results, fixed for 100ish miles. The original fluid looked bad and I thought I got most of it out. The codes; P25A2, C05B0-00, C2A1B. I can get them to clear but not for long. The C05B0 indicates a leak in the front circuit (which is bone dry) so I'm thinking of doing the bleed process on that front again today and I don't know if that's taboo to just do the front but at this point it seems like it's worth the try anyway. The new master cylinder/module unit is supposed to get here today. But now I'm pretty much convinced this install is over my head. I've called several shops and some mobile guys that I know but this thing is like radio active material scary wise. I did get 2 local shops say they should be able to do it, one says he has the SPS2 programing capability. And with the battery disconnected is there supposed to be pedal resistance, mine is to the floor, then if I pump it I can get some resistance.
    • I wasn’t commenting on your post. Certainly wasn’t arguing. I was making an observation on my long term experience with supposedly proper length of driving for proper heat cycles. Works for me. Although I have seen water or vapor come out of exhaust when vehicles weren’t run very long and shut off. It’s very humid in the morning. Then hot and humid. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...