Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Just happened to my truck for the second time @ 1863 miles. Hit button crank no start then starts second try. I am glad I caught this happening on my ring camera good evidence for my buy back arbitration.

Posted

Hello Everyone, I hope this helps as my issue was repaired.

 

It was after reading these posts that I finally took my 2019 Silverado Trail Boss into service. Starting back in May of 2021 my Trail Boss at around 11,000 miles would fail to start without pressing the startup button 3-4 times in a row and pumping the gas. The truck would act as though it was going to start, the gauges would all cycle, then the truck would hesitate for a second then shut off. At this same time, my Check Engine Light started coming on as well.

 

What was different about my experience from any that I have read here, was the truck would consistently start EXCEPT immediately after refuelling. So basically I would go to gas up, then be stuck at the gas station trying to turn the vehichle on. In between fuelings, the truck never failed to start.

 

I took it to the dealer to be serviced and they fixed it, eventhough they said they had never heard of this kind of issue before. It has been 3 fuelings since I had the repair, and the truck has never hesitated to start.

 

According to the service receipt/work order, here is what they found:

 

Confirmed Customer Concern of Check Engine Light Is On. Scanned for codes and found in ECM: P0443-00 EVAP Purge solenoid valve control circuit, P0458-00 EVAP purge solendoid valve control circuit low voltage, monitored EVAP data with engine at idle and no control of functions and found Fuel Tank Pressure Sensore (FTPS) was reading -9.0 to -10.0 in H20 of Vacuum. Commanded EVAP system sealed and confirmed engine stalled due to excessive vacuum on system in excess of -15 in H20 immediately.

 

Disconnected purge solenoid vavle electrical connector and tested circuits, confirmed test lamp illuminated on voltage circuit. Found test lamp illuminated when connected to low reference or contro side of circuits from ECM, indicating short to ground on control circuit which will hold to purge valve open thus causing concerns.

 

Measured 12.7 ohms to ground on low ref control circuit, disconnected ECM connector X1 and found short to group was no longer present. Measured circuit end to end and measured .2 ohms and passing. Inspected harness and found no signs of damage to any wires, reconnected ECM and found short to ground returned. Confirmed concern is an internal short to ground on the purge valve control circuit. Recommend replacling Engine Control Modue (ECM) to correct concerns.

 

Replaced ECM as per diagnostics. Performed prepare control module. 

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

My father in law has a 2019 Sierra SLT w/ the 5.3L. It has been intermittently turning over repeatedly but not starting or starting anemically and sputtering for a split second before it dies. It seems starved for fuel. The CEL light comes on afterwards. Codes are P129F and U1346. Dealer couldn't recreate problem and said there were no codes. That's odd because my cheap OBD2 reader tells me those codes. 

Edited by jbr1888
Posted

I had this not starting issue where it continues to cycle and cycle and cycle. I would have to let the computer go to sleep (5 or so minutes) before it would start. This happened 5 times in the first 4700 miles. The first time it happened I had less than 100 miles on it as it was day 2 or 3 of owning it. It was seeming like it was going to be an every 1000 mile thing. When that first non start issue happened, I was sitting in a shopping center parking lot. I hit the Onstar button and was asking them to send a tow truck. They wanted the mileage so I had to insert the key and cycle the ignition to on. I decided to try to start the truck and well it started. I can't remember the computer having time to go to sleep for that occurrence. It took me till the third to discover that if it happens just lock the truck back up and wait 5 minutes.  

 

I currently have 6100 miles. It was happening every 1k miles but did not happen during the 5k range. I am hoping it is a done deal now but that is only a hope. I can say that around that same 4700 mile mark things just started smoothing out. The engine started to run smoother. The drivetrain did as well. I no longer have intermittent rough idle while sitting in park with the engine running. It basically felt like a different truck after 4700 miles. Again that was the same timeframe of the last non starting issue. 

Posted (edited)

There is also a tsb on 2021 Silverado’s that require reprogramming the ecu due to a software anomaly as well. If a code is thrown for excessive cranking 

Edited by Getwrenching
Posted

I just experienced a no-start with my 2021 6.2 RST.  Got in, foot on the brake, pushed the button and it just cranked and cranked, no start.  Tried about 3 times then quit.  I removed the battery negative terminal for about 10 seconds, reconnected and it fired up just fine.  Only have about 1100 miles on my truck and this doesn't make me too happy.  Let's see what happens I guess.  

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted
On 9/6/2021 at 3:04 PM, jbr1888 said:

My father in law has a 2019 Sierra SLT w/ the 5.3L. It has been intermittently turning over repeatedly but not starting or starting anemically and sputtering for a split second before it dies. It seems starved for fuel. The CEL light comes on afterwards. Codes are P129F and U1346. Dealer couldn't recreate problem and said there were no codes. That's odd because my cheap OBD2 reader tells me those codes. 

The dealer replaced the fuel control module, the problem hasn’t recurred in a few weeks. It was a daily event prior to that repair. 

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Tightened the UBC bolts thinking it took care of my issue only to find out a month later it was a bad starter.  Dealer told me they've replaced a lot of starters on these trucks.  

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Has this been resolved yet? Going in for my first (free) "dealer service" soon and want to bring this up, but it hasn't happened to me again in about 6k miles.

Posted

Same issue for me.. 2020 Chevy Silverado 1500 RST.. (16K miles)  Second time this has happened to me. Truck motor spins, but will not fire. First time I let it set 15 mins.. then it started (that was about 6 weeks ago) . I am in the waiting time now .. hopefully it will start in a few mins. - This is frustrating... After the first time I took it into the dealership & they checked it.. no problems could be found. Both times it was after I had started it & drove it .. (has not happened on a first start of the day or cold start). It is -5deg this morning in Michigan, but truck was outside & started fine with remote start this morning. I will start tracking this issue.  

Posted

Seems like a lot of these issues were happening to people under the 5k mile mark. Anyone having the classic crank but no start into higher miles?

Posted
1 hour ago, 1997SierraSLT said:

Just thankful GM isn't a major player in the manufacturing of 1st responder vehicles.  

 

If they were, it would be like, "Sorry your grandma is dead, couldn't get the ambulance started"

I don't know where you live but in Texas most police vehicles are GM still. We do have a lot of Fords but GM trumps so it seems

 

"Sorry we couldn't save you from a rape/burglary, couldn't get the interceptor started"

Posted

Update: My truck started after a 15 min timeout ... no other issues today ... I’m going to track occurrences ... sad that I have to with a year old $50,000+ truck! Would love to get to the bottom of the issue.. 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

New issue for me today. The truck started long enough to get it in drive & move forward about 10' then shut off. I tried it 4 times all with the same result .. I let it sit for 15 mins then it started & ran fine. I do have a check engine light on . and the remote start will not work .. but otherwise it seems to operative normal. I have scheduled a service appointment in 4 days.

I asked the dealer ship if they had heard of any of these problems .. "No" was the response .. So this issue happened 500 miles since my spin-but-no-start issue .. 3 weeks ago . 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Diesel $5.42 at the truck stop on the hi-way
    • I'm not sure if this should be a new topic, let me know if it's out of place. This my first post. Thanks 85077522 - AC Delco GM Genuine Parts Brake Master Cylinders. Anyone else had to replace this brake master cylinder yet. I didn't do any brake work, it looks like new parts and I've had the truck for about 4k miles, 119k total miles.  When it started to throw codes I did the calibrations with a bidirectional scanner and got the codes to clear but they came back so I did the routine; base bleed, automated bleed and final base bleed. All that with Bosch ES16-32N fluid (please look it up). That seemed to fix it but 100ish miles later it failed again so I ran the same process but with a pressure bleeder this time and got the same results, fixed for 100ish miles. The original fluid looked bad and I thought I got most of it out, it could've been the wrong fluid. The codes; P25A2, C05B0-00, C2A1B. I can get them to clear but not for long. The C05B0 indicates a leak in the front circuit (which is bone dry) so I'm thinking of doing the bleed process on that front again today and I don't know if that's taboo to just do the front but at this point it seems like it's worth the try anyway. The new master cylinder/module unit is supposed to get here today. But now I'm pretty much convinced this install is over my head. I've called several shops and some mobile guys that I know but this thing is like radio active material, scary wise. I did get 2 local shops say they should be able to do it, one says he has the SPS2 programing capability. And with the battery disconnected is there supposed to be pedal resistance, mine is to the floor, then if I pump it I can get some resistance. I had a panic stop prior to this issue which may have contributed from what I read. And on the first attempt to bleed and hydraulic test the scanner listed things to look for and one was any gaps between the pad and rotors which I did notice on the RF corner and I removed the outer pad (where the gap was) cleaned it and the hardware and didn't see a gap after that but will re-check it. I read that if pushing the caliper pistons back then you're supposed to open the bleeder so as to not push fluid backwards into the abs module or it will damage it. If that's true then that's also a possibility from the previous owner having the brakes changed before I got it. I'm using an XTool ip500 scanner. Any suggestions, questions and comments welcome. 
    • Next Friday will be my 6 week point from my right knee replacement.  The surgeon says it will be fine if I choose to drive after this checkup.  I know I could drive now but best to do as my surgeon (and my wife) tell me.  Richard compared being 62 to 72.  I remember when I was in my early 60's I was experiencing slow but regular decline in my mobility.  Thanks to good medical support,  i continued to fight the speed and spread of this decline. During my 60's I worked on non-surgical methods and just when I turned 70, my orthopedic surgeon recommended joint replacements.  In a little over a year, I had one shoulder and both knees replaced.  This hasn't been a terribly fun experience, but worth the discomfort as my future mobility health trajectory has reversed.  It is a treat to now be watching my mobility. balance and confidence steadily improve!
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...