Large Tailgate hits trailer crank jack

[Tom Taylor]

I noticed when towing a trailer with a trailer mounted crank jack (tongue jack bolted onto the trailer) that the large tailgate on my 2019 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 LTZ Crew Cab strikes the trailer crank jack when opened.  It appears the tailgate is much larger than older models so that when the gate opens, it actually hits the trailer mounted crank jack handle and could cause damage to the finish of the tailgate.  This seems to be a design flaw with this tailgate.  Something everyone should be aware of on the 2019 Silverado.  I don't think there is any solution to this issue.

[amxguy1970]

Nice first post... People always trying to blame the manufacturers/others and people are quick to label a "design flaw" for something that isn't. Ever think it is a flaw of the trailer having the jack so close to the hitch? It is well know how long/tall the tailgate is, those specs are openly published. The new trucks tailgate are less than 1 inch longer (or deeper depending on how you read the specs) than the last gen. So if the trailer is now hitting not much has changed as the trailer company should allow more room. Trucks have been slowly getting bigger each generation, trailer companies should accommodate this. There is no design flaw, and everything can't be planned for when two different manufacturers build things separately. Maybe the owners should take a little responsibility for their own actions instead of trying to lay blame on others and just come up with a solution or maybe execute a little sensibility when operating or using something instead?

 

Tyler

[Nanotech Environmental]

1 hour ago, Tom Taylor said:

I noticed when towing a trailer with a trailer mounted crank jack (tongue jack bolted onto the trailer) that the large tailgate on my 2019 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 LTZ Crew Cab strikes the trailer crank jack when opened.  It appears the tailgate is much larger than older models so that when the gate opens, it actually hits the trailer mounted crank jack handle and could cause damage to the finish of the tailgate.  This seems to be a design flaw with this tailgate.  Something everyone should be aware of on the 2019 Silverado.  I don't think there is any solution to this issue.

Not a design flaw and there is an easy solution. 

Get a longer hitch, or get one made, or get an extension. If there's enough room, just drill new holes for the pin, such that the hitch sits a bit further out. The gate on my '17 can hit my hitch sometimes, so I'm careful. I'm just going to take my own advice to fix it.

Having a hitch that is 1-2" longer won't be an issue for hitch weight, unless you're already right at or past the limit, in which case, there are bigger problems to deal with.

Edited September 23, 2019 by Nanotech Environmental

[[email protected]]

Just get an extension

Edited September 23, 2019 by [email protected]
Na

[OHDenali]

ETrailer has about anything you could want, some as long as 16".

 

I got this one just Saturday because my old one was 1/2" too short:

https://www.etrailer.com/Ball_Mounts/Brophy/BH20.html

 

I had the same issue with my '09.

 

Edited September 23, 2019 by OHDenali

[bshort]

I've never been able to open any tailgate with my travel trailer connected.  

[Tom Taylor]

Thanks for all the suggestions and help, except for the snarky replies.

[davester]

I would suggest NOT following this suggestion: "If there's enough room, just drill new holes for the pin, such that the hitch sits a bit further out"

 

Neither the hitch nor the mount is designed for the different leverage that moving hitch pin location causes.

[OHDenali]

2 hours ago, davester said:

I would suggest NOT following this suggestion: "If there's enough room, just drill new holes for the pin, such that the hitch sits a bit further out"

 

Neither the hitch nor the mount is designed for the different leverage that moving hitch pin location causes.

I'm sorry, but i don't understand what you are saying. 

It's better to drill a hole in a drawbar to extend it's length rather than to buy a longer one?  

[OHDenali]

5 hours ago, davester said:

I would suggest NOT following this suggestion: "If there's enough room, just drill new holes for the pin, such that the hitch sits a bit further out"

 

Neither the hitch nor the mount is designed for the different leverage that moving hitch pin location causes.

I misread davester's post. I agree, drilling another hole in a drawbar is not a good idea. 

Apologies. 

[Nanotech Environmental]

6 hours ago, davester said:

I would suggest NOT following this suggestion: "If there's enough room, just drill new holes for the pin, such that the hitch sits a bit further out"

 

Neither the hitch nor the mount is designed for the different leverage that moving hitch pin location causes.

To be clear, I meant drilling in the hitch itself, not the mount(receiver). It only works if there is lot of(read- enough) extra material ahead of the existing holes. There needs to be enough material between the old and new holes as well. (or the old ones can be welded shut)
There is no change in leverage on the pin either way. The pin works in such as way that all loads on it are in shear under braking/accel. 
All vertical and side to side loads are handled by the hitch receiver and it's framework, which aren't affected by moving the holes in the hitch - except a small degree of extra leverage, which I addressed in my earlier post.

This is absolutely no different than adding an extension, or putting in a longer hitch. The results are the same.
 

[davester]

4 hours ago, Nanotech Environmental said:

To be clear, I meant drilling in the hitch itself, not the mount(receiver). It only works if there is lot of(read- enough) extra material ahead of the existing holes. There needs to be enough material between the old and new holes as well. (or the old ones can be welded shut)
There is no change in leverage on the pin either way. The pin works in such as way that all loads on it are in shear under braking/accel. 
All vertical and side to side loads are handled by the hitch receiver and it's framework, which aren't affected by moving the holes in the hitch - except a small degree of extra leverage, which I addressed in my earlier post.

This is absolutely no different than adding an extension, or putting in a longer hitch. The results are the same.
 

No, the hitch itself also needs to handle that extra bending moment from sticking further out, possibly made worse if the hitch no longer goes all the way through the hitch mount.

 

A hitch extension has the same forces on it (assuming it sticks out the same amount), but it will have been designed for that extra bending moment being applied to it, as well as (depending on how far it sticks out) reduce the max. tongue weight you can put on the ball.

[Nanotech Environmental]

16 hours ago, davester said:

No, the hitch itself also needs to handle that extra bending moment from sticking further out, possibly made worse if the hitch no longer goes all the way through the hitch mount.

 

A hitch extension has the same forces on it (assuming it sticks out the same amount), but it will have been designed for that extra bending moment being applied to it, as well as (depending on how far it sticks out) reduce the max. tongue weight you can put on the ball.

We're talking 1-2" here, on a piece of 2x2 mild steel tube. I was very clear about there needing to be sufficient material for this to work(twice). Extensions are made from the same material. 
Believe me, your worries are a non-issue. We can do an engineering workup if you like.........? lol   Spent 12 years working in the steel industry in various capacities & know waaay more than I care to about stuff like this.
The max tongue weight is reduced no matter how this cat is skinned. (which I also mentioned)
As I stated earlier, same result doing this, or using an extension. It's up to the OP anyways. So,.....Relax. 
 

Edited September 24, 2019 by Nanotech Environmental

[davester]

Well given that we:

-don't know what the OP is towing

-don't know what hitch the OP has

-don't know the OPs knowledge of engineering and/or metallurgy

 

suggesting that the OP weaken his hitch vs buying a proper solution doesn't seem like a great idea.

 

And I'm sure if the hitch happened to fail, and the insurance company denies covering the resulting accident, you'll go "what, never heard of that guy.  someone must have hacked my account."

[oldmann]

On 9/23/2019 at 9:10 AM, Tom Taylor said:

I noticed when towing a trailer with a trailer mounted crank jack (tongue jack bolted onto the trailer) that the large tailgate on my 2019 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 LTZ Crew Cab strikes the trailer crank jack when opened.  It appears the tailgate is much larger than older models so that when the gate opens, it actually hits the trailer mounted crank jack handle and could cause damage to the finish of the tailgate.  This seems to be a design flaw with this tailgate.  Something everyone should be aware of on the 2019 Silverado.  I don't think there is any solution to this issue.

I have never owned a trailer with a stationary jack that didn't hit the tailgate.  This is old news.