Jump to content

Sold 2019 and hoping for a change in 2021

aha1987
 Share

Recommended Posts

ct_corey Enthusiast

ct_corey

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, truck_newbie said:

Are you sure you aren't phantom sensing some of these vibrations, lol. Noticed you have reported a few vibration issues. 

I have the same vibration just not as bad as his. started at around 8k miles. Before that it was smooth as silk.  I have a feeling this problem is going to show up way more once people start racking up miles. 

  • Replies 61
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Thomcat
Thomcat

Maybe the reason there was not a big change in the interior of the '19 over my previous '16 was because there was no real reason to do so.   Interior changes in the '19 are not so much to do

rikhek
rikhek

WOW, just WOW.  Thanks for sharing that with us.  I'll now sleep well tonight.

mwbutcher
mwbutcher

What did you pay and what did you sell it for.....asking for a friend LOL. 

Doolin-Dalton Enthusiast

Doolin-Dalton

Posted
Posted
On 10/14/2019 at 8:21 PM, Aycock1987 said:

I hope they make appropriate changes for 2021 on the interior. I just sold my 2019 because I was wasn’t happy with it ( interior, problems, etc). I know there are rumors of changes coming but I sure hope GM gets their Sh** together for 2021. I should’ve kept my 2017. I will reconsider once they get all the bugs worked out and update the interior. I learned my lesson on buying a first year redesign. FYI, I am still a gm loyalist 

Sorry, you may have already stated this, but just curious, how did you sell it?  Carmax or Private Sale?  

aha1987 Enthusiast

aha1987

Posted
  • Author
Posted
7 minutes ago, Doolin-Dalton said:

Sorry, you may have already stated this, but just curious, how did you sell it?  Carmax or Private Sale?  

I had it up for sale for a week or 2 on auto trader but ended up taking it to CarMax and they gave me a low number so I went to some Chevrolet dealerships and one of them gave me a couple grand more than what CarMax was offering.

Sin City Trail Boss Enthusiast

Sin City Trail Boss

Posted
Posted
10 hours ago, truck_newbie said:

Are you sure you aren't phantom sensing some of these vibrations, lol. Noticed you have reported a few vibration issues. 

You tell me. I took this today in the smoothest road out here going about 75.

 

 

truck_newbie Enthusiast

truck_newbie

Posted
Posted
13 minutes ago, Sin City Trail Boss said:

You tell me. I took this today in the smoothest road out here going about 75.

 

 

Sorry, i don't mean to make light of your vibration issues. I went through something similar on my previous vehicle ('16 CTS). I put on new tires and wheels and ever since then, there was this small vibration that could not be resolved. I was also apparently the only one who could tell. I went through at least 10 road force balances across 3 different shops, same issue. Eventually, one guy from discount tire told me he thinks it's from the wheels and recommended i get myself a better set of wheels. He said low quality wheels might have small imperfections that might not be picked up by the balancer. 

 

Granted, the wheels i had initially (Verde Saga) were bargain wheels and didn't have the best manufacturing process. I bit the bullet and bought another set of wheels (O.Z Italia Racing). They were much more expensive but i definitely got what i paid for. The O.Z wheels came with calibration/performance results so right away, i knew i was unto something. After i got them mounted, I thought the vibration was still present but after about a week, i realized it was gone and was just residue feelings from the previous wheels.  

 

Every vehicle exhibits some amount of vibration since there are a lot of rotating parts. I can't tell if the water bottle shake in your video is abnormal. Have you tried the water bottle test on another vehicle which you would consider smooth?

Sin City Trail Boss Enthusiast

Sin City Trail Boss

Posted
Posted
7 minutes ago, truck_newbie said:

Sorry, i don't mean to make light of your vibration issues. I went through something similar on my previous vehicle ('16 CTS). I put on new tires and wheels and ever since then, there was this small vibration that could not be resolved. I was also apparently the only one who could tell. I went through at least 10 road force balances across 3 different shops, same issue. Eventually, one guy from discount tire told me he thinks it's from the wheels and recommended i get myself a better set of wheels. He said low quality wheels might have small imperfections that might not be picked up by the balancer. 

 

Granted, the wheels i had initially (Verde Saga) were bargain wheels and didn't have the best manufacturing process. I bit the bullet and bought another set of wheels (O.Z Italia Racing). They were much more expensive but i definitely got what i paid for. The O.Z wheels came with calibration/performance results so right away, i knew i was unto something. After i got them mounted, I thought the vibration was still present but after about a week, i realized it was gone and was just residue feelings from the previous wheels.  

 

Every vehicle exhibits some amount of vibration since there are a lot of rotating parts. I can't tell if the water bottle shake in your video is abnormal. Have you tried the water bottle test on another vehicle which you would consider smooth?

I was actually thinking about those two things myself!

 

Changing rims, and also do the water test on my wife's brand new SUV which is super smooth.

wizard4878 Enthusiast

wizard4878

Posted
Posted
On 10/17/2019 at 11:15 AM, Bigfoot16 said:

I like my HC a lot... much better than my '16 LTZ.  My only complaint would be the tilt wheel.  I wish it was like the Tahoe that is automatic and telescoping... First world problem..... :)

My salesman told me they dropped the electric tilt/telescopic wheel because too many people use the steering wheel to help pull themselves into the vehicle and the electric version was more prone to wear from this, which made it not work correctly or at all and it is super expensive to repair or replace.  Take that for what its worth...

  • Like 1
jlong1984 Enthusiast

jlong1984

Posted
Posted
22 hours ago, mistaare said:

Why exactly do you think that RAM took 2nd? Is it based solely on interior or also build quality and reliability? I really want to buy either a GMC Elevation or AT4 but to be honest, reading about brake, transmission and electronic issues really has me second guessing,,,,,

 

 

Go read the Ram forums and you will see they have plenty of problems, maybe more than GM. Even the F-150 that came out in 2015 still has plenty of complaint threads over on their forum. 

  • Like 1
Cpl_Punishment Senior Enthusiast

Cpl_Punishment

Posted
Posted
44 minutes ago, wizard4878 said:

My salesman told me they dropped the electric tilt/telescopic wheel because too many people use the steering wheel to help pull themselves into the vehicle and the electric version was more prone to wear from this, which made it not work correctly or at all and it is super expensive to repair or replace.  Take that for what its worth...

Isn't that why they brought the grab handle back? 

Cpl_Punishment Senior Enthusiast

Cpl_Punishment

Posted
Posted
42 minutes ago, jlong1984 said:

Go read the Ram forums and you will see they have plenty of problems, maybe more than GM. Even the F-150 that came out in 2015 still has plenty of complaint threads over on their forum. 

Not to mention a dozen recalls on the 2017s, which I was led to believe didn't change much from the two previous years. 

wizard4878 Enthusiast

wizard4878

Posted
Posted
On 10/18/2019 at 9:09 PM, Cpl_Punishment said:

Isn't that why they brought the grab handle back? 

I would guess so,  but apparently nobody uses it

Cpl_Punishment Senior Enthusiast

Cpl_Punishment

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, wizard4878 said:

I would guess so,  but apparently nobody uses it

That sucks. I liked the ability to flip the steering wheel up and out of the way that I'm pretty sure had been on every truck since the GMT-800s.

bass mechanic Enthusiast

bass mechanic

Posted
Posted

hmm, i just bought a 2020 Sierra Denali with Duramax. i've had 3 of the previous gen, 2014, 2015, 2017 all with the 6.2 and the last 2 were Denali Ultimate.

honestly i cannot find much i don't like about the 2020.

one of the reasons i always buy the fully optioned model of anything i buy is there will always be things you don't like, but the plethora of great things outweigh the bad things.

my daily is a 2017 CTS-V and despite the crappy 8 speed trans i still love the car. (what's not to like about 640 hp and 600 lbs of torque?) i still get almost 30 highway MPG..

anyway, i think the interior looks pretty good overall. is ram better? maybe? but i also think RAM / Dodge makes a pretty cheap ass vehicle from all other aspects.

wizard4878 Enthusiast

wizard4878

Posted
Posted
9 hours ago, Cpl_Punishment said:

That sucks. I liked the ability to flip the steering wheel up and out of the way that I'm pretty sure had been on every truck since the GMT-800s.

They still have it,  but its not electric anymore

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,914
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    AidenVorpagel
    Newest Member
    AidenVorpagel
    Joined

  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 614 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • AidenVorpagel
      cam upgrade in CA

      By AidenVorpagel · Posted

      hello I recently bought a 2012 gmc 1500 with a 5.3 and have a AFM disabler on it I'm interested in doing a cam but I'm worried if I remove the AFM system I will fail smog does anyone have info if they are able to detect that or a work around to it (not talking about hot smogging) please let me know thank you  
    • B14Sierra
      Noise after AFM delete

      By B14Sierra · Posted

      Did you figure it out?
    • B14Sierra
      Possible lifter tick after DOD delete

      By B14Sierra · Posted

      Update. I started chasing down my symptoms. Started first with pulling valve covers and looked at everything. Everything looked good and couldn't hear or feel anything different. Then a compression test. 240 psi or really close on each cylinder. I was worried I was a tooth off of timing. Not bad for an engine with 173,000. Granted I did put new heads on. I sprayed water around the injector area to see if I could hear a change. Nothing. I hooked up my new hp tuner which I should have done in the first place but I don't really know what I'm looking at just yet but am learning. I noticed the fuel trims were way off so that told me I have to have either a bad injector or exhaust leak. New injectors, so I did the shop vac on blower and in the tail pipe. Sprayed soapy water and found the exhaust flange on the drivers side was leaking. I didn't think it would be that considereding I pulled the heads and left the manifolds attached. I did have the transmission replaced not long ago. They must have not seated them properly but I guess I didn't notice. I put in new gaskets on both sides. Which by the way isn't a bad job but I had a hard time getting them to seal right. Took two attempts. Reset the fuel trims and the ticking is gone, engine runs smooth and acceleration has improved. Got to feel the real difference with that stage 1 cam. It's not that big of a difference but it does add a little more. It feels like how the truck should have been from the factory.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...