Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
10 hours ago, Sierradude said:

Where’s the adaptive cruise control?

2020s have it.

 

11 hours ago, redwngr said:

You can buy a truck and still acknowledge its shortcomings. I love my Sierra, but the interior is lacking in comparison to Ram, and I'm sure the new 2021 Ford will have a nice interior GM will be measured against. 

Posted
1 hour ago, jlong1984 said:

2020s have it.

 

You can buy a truck and still acknowledge its shortcomings. I love my Sierra, but the interior is lacking in comparison to Ram, and I'm sure the new 2021 Ford will have a nice interior GM will be measured against

Posted
13 hours ago, redwngr said:

Yes I do! GM sales are doing a lot better then the first 2 quarters. But you can’t deny Rams sales and now they are clear cut number 2 for first time ever. Ram took market share from both ford and GM. But Ford is still selling 70-80k trucks a month.  I’m a die hard GM guy , not putting the truck down. Just saying it has short comings compared to its main rivals. 

Posted

I like my HC a lot... much better than my '16 LTZ.  My only complaint would be the tilt wheel.  I wish it was like the Tahoe that is automatic and telescoping... First world problem..... :)

Posted
14 hours ago, redwngr said:

I wonder how much of this is driven by dealers building up stock in preparation for the potential (and occurrence of) the strike?

 

Plus there have been a lot more incentives on the new trucks of late. My crystal ball says that will be the best quarter for the year.

Posted

I have a 19 AT4 and sorry but I love the interior.  The fact there are real knobs and buttons and not all touch is the best part.  I own a jeep grand Cherokee and that has all touch for climate and such and its awful.  You have to take your eyes off the road, go through multiple screens to just turn the heated seats on or change the climate.  Also have you driven the ram with 12in display at night?  Try it and you will find out its like having the interior lights on all the time.  My 2 cents

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted

I said this once before and I'll say it again. The guys that are coming from the 07-13 trucks are going to be in awe of the interiors on the new 19s because the older trucks are all plastic from door to door. Now the guys that are coming from 14-18 trucks are either going to like it or not. Because there is not too much change between the materials and layout of the trucks they are used to.

  • Like 1
Posted

I think the interior is an important item.. but reliability is a vital item. that is, coming from a '17 F150 eco to a GMC has been a real reprieve. 

 

I agree that one may buy a truck based on its looks or interior. But you will sure as hell get rid of it on account of an unreliable power train. And that my friends is where you get bit.

 

Pete

  • Like 1
Posted
On 10/15/2019 at 11:05 AM, f8l vnm said:

100% agreed.  GM dropped The ball in the interior. Big time. So much so that RAM took 2nd place in sells for the first time ever. I know some of you are perfectly fine with the interior but majority of people have spoken and they think it’s a weak attempt. Again don’t agree with me ? Look at the sales numbers.  We’ll see what happens , I’m not expecting a miracle as GM just lacks in the interior dept. 

Why exactly do you think that RAM took 2nd? Is it based solely on interior or also build quality and reliability? I really want to buy either a GMC Elevation or AT4 but to be honest, reading about brake, transmission and electronic issues really has me second guessing,,,,,

 

 

Posted (edited)

Then I suggest checking out the ramforumz .com problems forum. You’ll be back in a hurry. Honestly, if reliability is your biggest criteria just go with the Tundra. That platform has been around since 07 and is pretty much bulletproof. Gas is horrendous but you’ll only see the dealer for maintenance. I have had absolutely zero problems with my 07 crew cab.  My 2002 Tahoe has also been a fantasticaly reliable vehicle.l have put over 240k miles on original Powertrain. Just replaced the AC compressor and a tie rod on it. I would drive it or my tundra across country tomorrow. 

Edited by lrtexasman
  • Like 1
Posted
3 hours ago, lrtexasman said:

Then I suggest checking out the ramforumz .com problems forum. You’ll be back in a hurry. Honestly, if reliability is your biggest criteria just go with the Tundra. That platform has been around since 07 and is pretty much bulletproof. Gas is horrendous but you’ll only see the dealer for maintenance. I have had absolutely zero problems with my 07 crew cab.  My 2002 Tahoe has also been a fantasticaly reliable vehicle.l have put over 240k miles on original Powertrain. Just replaced the AC compressor and a tie rod on it. I would drive it or my tundra across country tomorrow. 

Only thing that stopped me from buying a Tundra was that during test driving, all 3 ones I tried had an annoying gas pedal vibration. 

 

Otherwise I would have been all over it.

Posted

OP:  Sorry the 2019 didn't work out for you. 

I am loving my '19 so far.  I do admit that the interior is not as slick as the Ram and should have been better.

Possibly when the refresh  comes out I may upgrade, but I don't feel that compelled right now. I am happy with the features and look of this one.

I just came out of a '14 which was a great truck and I like the familiarity to that one.  Very functional in my opinion.

 

  • Like 1
Posted
6 hours ago, Sin City Trail Boss said:

Only thing that stopped me from buying a Tundra was that during test driving, all 3 ones I tried had an annoying gas pedal vibration. 

 

Otherwise I would have been all over it.

Are you sure you aren't phantom sensing some of these vibrations, lol. Noticed you have reported a few vibration issues. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,914
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    AidenVorpagel
    Newest Member
    AidenVorpagel
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 614 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • hello I recently bought a 2012 gmc 1500 with a 5.3 and have a AFM disabler on it I'm interested in doing a cam but I'm worried if I remove the AFM system I will fail smog does anyone have info if they are able to detect that or a work around to it (not talking about hot smogging) please let me know thank you  
    • Update. I started chasing down my symptoms. Started first with pulling valve covers and looked at everything. Everything looked good and couldn't hear or feel anything different. Then a compression test. 240 psi or really close on each cylinder. I was worried I was a tooth off of timing. Not bad for an engine with 173,000. Granted I did put new heads on. I sprayed water around the injector area to see if I could hear a change. Nothing. I hooked up my new hp tuner which I should have done in the first place but I don't really know what I'm looking at just yet but am learning. I noticed the fuel trims were way off so that told me I have to have either a bad injector or exhaust leak. New injectors, so I did the shop vac on blower and in the tail pipe. Sprayed soapy water and found the exhaust flange on the drivers side was leaking. I didn't think it would be that considereding I pulled the heads and left the manifolds attached. I did have the transmission replaced not long ago. They must have not seated them properly but I guess I didn't notice. I put in new gaskets on both sides. Which by the way isn't a bad job but I had a hard time getting them to seal right. Took two attempts. Reset the fuel trims and the ticking is gone, engine runs smooth and acceleration has improved. Got to feel the real difference with that stage 1 cam. It's not that big of a difference but it does add a little more. It feels like how the truck should have been from the factory.
    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...