Jump to content

Trailer camera issues

In2racn
 Share

Recommended Posts

In2racn Enthusiast

In2racn

Posted
  • Author
Posted
5 hours ago, MTU Alum said:

I usually backup to trailer and get aligned to trailer hookup, shut truck off, hook up trailer and chains, then plug in electrical, and finally camera.  These cameras don't like a hot hookup where the truck is running or communications bus is alive.

When you say "don't like a hot hookup" ... does that mean a failure, an electrical issue. Or simply a "reboot" to make everything happy again? I am one to leave the truck running during these hookups.

  • Replies 94
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

In2racn
In2racn

Shotgun,   I agree, the key with these cameras is the awesome ability to see behind your trailer. It is really a cool option to have that functionality integrated in. The transparent thing i

MTU Alum
MTU Alum

I usually backup to trailer and get aligned to trailer hookup, shut truck off, hook up trailer and chains, then plug in electrical, and finally camera.  These cameras don't like a hot hookup where the

ShotgunZ71
ShotgunZ71

You can put them on 5th wheels, you just won't have the transparent trailer view. However, the view with the mirror cameras and rear vision camera is pretty dang good.

Posted Images

In2racn Enthusiast

In2racn

Posted
  • Author
Posted

FYI GMC/Chevy boys....

I would rather support my local dealer than an online shop. If I find something online, I ask the dealer for a price and to get it. I have no issue paying a bit more from the dealer than online. A "bit" more. 

Regarding the camera....  Shopchevypartsonline has the trailer camera for $356, plus $15 ish for shipping. I waited forever with no progress in order status. After 3 weeks, I called my dealer, he said he could have in one day, $475 plus tax. That's $516 when you live in the land of Cuomo. I told them about the advertised prices of the camera, he wouldn't budge, says there is no mark up in these. 

 

Today the Shopchevyparts camera showed up, less than $380. However, it had this sticker on the outside of the box. 

 

No returns if opened

MTU Alum Enthusiast

MTU Alum

Posted
Posted
29 minutes ago, In2racn said:

When you say "don't like a hot hookup" ... does that mean a failure, an electrical issue. Or simply a "reboot" to make everything happy again? I am one to leave the truck running during these hookups.

You typically will get a black screen with trailer camera views.  

In2racn Enthusiast

In2racn

Posted
  • Author
Posted
5 minutes ago, MTU Alum said:

You typically will get a black screen with trailer camera views.  

Thanks...

But does it go away with a "reboot"? Or does it cause damage.

 

sdelam Enthusiast

sdelam

Posted
Posted

I have connected/disconnected the camera with the truck running without any issues (no black screens). I have never tried to run the camera without the 7 pin connecter installed, i assumed it would not work becuase it doesnt have a trailer connected. 

ShotgunZ71 Senior Enthusiast

ShotgunZ71

Posted
Posted
On 11/12/2019 at 12:50 PM, MTU Alum said:

I usually backup to trailer and get aligned to trailer hookup, shut truck off, hook up trailer and chains, then plug in electrical, and finally camera.  These cameras don't like a hot hookup where the truck is running or communications bus is alive.

I tried this when I got home this evening and it all worked like it is supposed to. Thank you for the tips and info about the cameras. Not sure why is decided to not communicate all of a sudden, but once I followed your instructions, it worked like it should. Hopefully I remember each time and it continues to work right. Thanks!

  • 3 months later...
Walla Walla Joe Enthusiast

Walla Walla Joe

Posted
Posted

When you hooked up the trailer view camera to your truck, did you have to enable something on your truck? 


I have a 2019 GMC Sierra SLT Premium X31, that has all the trailering camera packages, UVI - TRAILER CAMERA PACKAGE: LEFT & RIGHT SIDE MIRROR CAMERA, TRAILER VIEW CAMERA PROVISIONS, no front camera or rear view mirror camera. It has the 7pin with the two camera ports above it, one for the inside, one for the outside.

I tried hooking up my trailer late last summer when I got the camera, and it didn’t work then, but then we had winter so I thought I’d wait since the trailer was all stowed. I had to hook my trailer up this weekend and thought I’d at least hook up the trailer view camera just to see how it operated, BEFORE going through mounting and installing it on my trailer. 

 

With the truck off, trailer hooked up, a 2018 R-Pod with 7pin, I plugged in the trailer view camera, then started the truck and selected my trailer. Nothing else popped up, toggling through the camera views, the one for the trailer view is just black. I have the correct camera and RPO code on my truck, but it doesn’t seem to detect the camera.

 

Following all the instructions, I should see a picture, but don’t, just a black screen where the trailer camera should be. I also spent 6 hours at the local GMC dealer for them to troubleshoot it, they don’t have a clue, after all that time, even trying on another truck like mine, no luck. I told them that “I think”, from everything I read, you must have a 7 pin trailer hooked up for it to power that port, but they were not hooking up a trailer that whole time, but hey, they’re the dealer, they must know what they are doing, even though they didn’t know that trailer camera existed. 
 

I would say that it’s a defective camera, or a defective port on the truck. But either way, you would think the dealer would have a clue? they now want me to bring my truck in and leave it with them this week, of course “we don’t need the trailer” is what they told me. Any advice ? I’m about ready to take it to the Chevy dealer, who seems to have a much better grasp on this “new fangled technology” (dealer words from the service manager). This is the dealer tha5 told me to call OnStar to get the update for my Infotainment system ??‍♂️

MTU Alum Enthusiast

MTU Alum

Posted
Posted

Is the camera view grayed out where you can't select it or are you getting a black screen when you select the trailer camera view?

 

Your posting is a little confusing.  Do you have a 2019 or 2020 truck?  Only 2020 trucks have trailer camera functionality.  The UVI system does not have cameras in the mirrors or front grill.  

 

#iworkforGM 

Walla Walla Joe Enthusiast

Walla Walla Joe

Posted
Posted
9 minutes ago, MTU Alum said:

Is the camera view grayed out where you can't select it or are you getting a black screen when you select the trailer camera view?

 

Your posting is a little confusing.  Do you have a 2019 or 2020 truck?  Only 2020 trucks have trailer camera functionality.  The UVI system does not have cameras in the mirrors or front grill.  

 

#iworkforGM 

I have a 2019 GMC, it does have the option for trailer view. It had the view, just displays a black screen. I also have verified that the RPO code with the VIN and the camera I have Trailering Camera Package - GM (84580657), so the 2019’s DO have the option, the 2020’s are moving to a different a different plug I believe.

7F7660B7-58D7-4F7D-B6E4-E9F21433FB3E.jpeg

redwngr Senior Enthusiast

redwngr

Posted
Posted

 

Feels like we are mixing 'transparent trailer' with 'rear auxiliary  trailer camera'. 

MTU Alum Enthusiast

MTU Alum

Posted
Posted (edited)

Do you have a light duty then?  I was confused you posting in 2020 hd forum about issues on 2019.

 

Anyways, black screen to me means either you plugged the trailer camera in before the truck was asleep, camera plug not making good connection, or bad camera.

 

I would try again reconnecting your electrical 7 way and trailer camera.  Shut your truck off and wait until the green light next to onstar button is out before plugging back in.  Make sure the camera connection is pushed all the way in.  

 

#iworkforGM 

Edited by MTU Alum
Walla Walla Joe Enthusiast

Walla Walla Joe

Posted
Posted

Yes, light duty. Sorry I was posting in the wrong forum, I am looking for any help with the camera because so far have been treated like I am speaking Japanese to the dealer about this.

 

Also, the truck was off, sleeping (on star light was off like mentioned, pushed in all the way. Did all of the different connection tricks.

 

i say the camera is defective but I have to give up my truck to let the dealer experiment I guess.

 

thanks again and sorry for the wrong forum.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Jsdirt
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      If everything checks out at the MAF, then the MAF is BAD, new or not.   You don't need a signal generator to troubleshoot this. PCM needs ALL powers and ALL grounds able to light a halogen headlight bulb - if it can light the bulb bright, then the wiring is good enough to run the PCM.   Best thing you can do for yourself is spend some time here: scannerdanner.com - Check out all his YouTube videos on similar issues. If you decide to subscribe it's the best bang-for-buck ratio in the automotive world, hands-down. He's got TONS of free vids on YouTube, too.
    • Tyler Gibbs
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      You got that Hengst D110??
    • contrabombarde
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By contrabombarde · Posted

      Yes, I used my multimeter to probe all of the wires at the MAF, both with the sensor connected, sensor disconnected, key on engine off, key on engine running, etc etc etc. I probed all of the wires again at the PCM, at the connectors, etc. All voltages are what they should be according to the service manual/wiring diagrams. All grounds are good, less than 20 millivolts from the battery negative under load. Both at the connector of the MAF, at the PCM connector etc.      I know this throws a pretty big wrench into things, but this truck was acting up before the swap. I don't have very much information, if any on what was causing it, but if you cleared all of the dtcs it would do the same thing where it would crank, fire, then die. And it would do the same thing a dozen or so times, and eventually it would start and run, but the difference is that it would run and actually be drivable. Whereas now if you can drive it at all, it goes into reduced power mode almost immediately, and even then it's not running correctly. When you come to a stop at a light it stumbles down to for 500 RPM before catching itself and returning to the smooth idle. And if you go more than about 50% throttle then it immediately goes back to doing the misfire thing.    Like I said, I know that throws a wrench into things, and unfortunately I was not able to pull any data or anything like that before I did this work, so I don't have much to go on.    I'm trying to not fixate on one particular thing as the cause of the problem, but it seems like all avenues are pointing me towards the PCM. Like I said I have tested the wiring extensively (see above), and during cranking the sensor does produce seemingly legitimate values at least according to my multimeter, but as soon as the engine fires those values quickly descend into gibberish. I've tried it with multiple different known working sensors, I have done literally every test I can think of multiple times on the wiring (probing the signals, probing the pins with the sensors unplugged, probing the pins at the PCM, voltage drop, voltage drop under load, continuity, ohms, and double-checking everything against the wiring diagrams/ proper values in the service data.)    Another thing that pushes me towards a possible PCM failure is, I have noticed in troubleshooting a little bit taking a break and coming back, that when I leave the truck to sit for a while and cool off, it starts and runs smoothly when I first start it up. However once it warms up. It starts having problems. For example, when I went out to the truck this morning after it had been sitting overnight, I was actually able to drive it down the block. And then once I got on the throttle a Little bit after going about a thousand ft, it started misfiring again. I pulled it back into the driveway, shut it down, and started it back up. It idled smoothly. As soon as I touched the throttle it did the misfire thing again. From then on as soon as I started it it would misfire. I shut the truck off and went to go get a coffee and do a bit more research. When I came back out I started the truck up and it immediately went into the smooth idle. After a couple of minutes of playing around with it, it would not idle smoothly anymore. Let it sit a couple of hours, rinse and repeat. This makes me think with temperature change something is going wrong inside the PCM. I have the PCM out of the 2007 donor vehicle and I'm thinking of getting a one-day subscription to the ACDelco programming service to try and program that and see if it helps.   Like I said, I'm really trying to not fixate myself on one potential cause, but it seems everything is pointing me towards PCM failure. I would really like to try to confirm that, but unfortunately I don't have an oscilloscope or a signal generator to do the GM service procedure where you feed 5 khz into the signal pin. 
    • Jsdirt
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      Ahh, sorry about that - I got some bad info. Newdude is correct. That's what I get for working 13 hours straight ... on my "vacation", lol.   Should've checked the files I had instead of the internet.   Anyway ... this is GREAT news, since this would've been an absolute friggin nightmare to get working.   I don't think the lack of VVT is causing this - you've got another issue. Wiring, I'm betting.   I'm telling you right now, your computer isn't bad. If it worked before the swap, it's working now. You need to do some more (better) diagnostics and figure out exactly what you're missing. Did you test every wire directly at the MAF? Have 5V reference? Ground? If you're reading ZERO g/s, your Hz isn't much use - it's going to be the wrong value anyway. The MAF is not working, and you need to find out WHY.   I got this off the net, so VERIFY first: Pin A: Black (BLK) wire, Circuit 552, serves as the Sensor Return (Ground).  Pin B: Tan (TAN) wire, Circuit 472, carries the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) signal.  Pin C: Yellow (YEL) wire, Circuit 492, is the primary MAF Sensor Signal output to the PCM. Pin D: Pink (PNK) wire, Circuit 339 or 539, provides Ignition 1 Voltage (Power).  Pin E: Tan/Black wire, Circuit 552 or similar, often associated with the Intake Air Temperature ground or signal return.  Global-A list: https://postimg.cc/KKJnQC85    
    • parthery
      GM Hard Folding Tonneau by REV review

      By parthery · Posted

      Correct....the end user can't reach to Realtruck directly like they can if they purchase a Bak, Undercover, etc...  It has to go through a dealer.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...