Jump to content

New truck break-in

zelmo
 Share

Recommended Posts

bshort Enthusiast

bshort

Posted
Posted
18 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

I missed it. Where is the fact in this statement? 

Your going to ridicule with opinion?

Really?
Kids do that right?

Oh the irony........................?

  • Like 1
  • Replies 92
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

TNTSierra
TNTSierra

I’m kinda like @KARNUT  in regards to break in. Every vehicle I have owned whether it’s been motorcycles, jet-skis, boat, cars, suvs, and trucks. I have driven them hard from the get go.  My jet ski

Cpl_Punishment
Cpl_Punishment

Maybe so but I like being the only one who's used it. 

bshort
bshort

Absolutely unnecessary.  Not even remotely sound advice.  

spizike9 Enthusiast

spizike9

Posted
Posted
On 3/17/2020 at 7:43 AM, zelmo said:

I hadn't thought of those possibilities.  Any of them would kill the deal for me.

 

Same dealer has a very similar 2020 on the lot with 5 miles on it.  The difference in price is $2200.  It might be worth that for my peace of mind.


Totally worth it for that much money. Just the trade in/resale value would be worth that in a few years. (Not sure how long you keep your vehicles.) 

Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted
5 hours ago, bshort said:

Oh the irony........................?

 

Here's a though. Act as you wish to be treated.

Someone really important said that once.

Luke 6:31 

 

Don't act so surprised when treated rudely if your rude.

 

  • Like 1
Bigfoot16 Enthusiast

Bigfoot16

Posted
Posted

I've never really "broken in" any of my new trucks.  Just drove them normal.

 

Only car I've ever paid attention to the break in period is my '18 Grand Sport.. the tach pretty much reminded me the first 500 miles to take it easy.

zelmo Enthusiast

zelmo

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Ok, plenty of experiences of trucks being driven with no regard to a break-in procedure.  So why does GM put it in the manual?  Is it a catch that they can use to deny a warranty claim?

Edited by zelmo
  • Like 1
BlancoSilverado Enthusiast

BlancoSilverado

Posted
Posted
On 3/18/2020 at 3:58 PM, Bigfoot16 said:

I've never really "broken in" any of my new trucks.  Just drove them normal.

 

Only car I've ever paid attention to the break in period is my '18 Grand Sport.. the tach pretty much reminded me the first 500 miles to take it easy.

Because i don't own a C7, how did it remind you?

Bigfoot16 Enthusiast

Bigfoot16

Posted
Posted (edited)
6 hours ago, BlancoSilverado said:

Because i don't own a C7, how did it remind you?

It had a yellow and red line on the tach showing you the max rpms you should be going for the first 500 miles.  The line went away as soon as I hit 500 miles.

Edited by Bigfoot16
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Nanotech Environmental Enthusiast

Nanotech Environmental

Posted
Posted
On 3/16/2020 at 10:14 PM, zelmo said:

I know that I am strange.  I often read the manual for things before I buy them to be sure I don’t have any surprises. 

 

Vehicles are on the list of items I research thoroughly before purchasing.   The manuals for these trucks have always said for the first 500 miles don’t tow and to keep it under 55 mph. After that keep it under 55 for the first 500 miles of towing.  Over the years I haven’t come across any car salesmen who know that.  

 

I doubt that most buyers know that either. That leads me to believe most new trucks are not treated that way.  The wording in the manual says it will perform better in the long run if these guidelines are followed.  

 

How important is this?   What does perform better in the long run mean?

Doesn't matter what break-in method you use. To each his own. 

If you want to properly seat the rings, there is only one way & it isn't detailed in the manual.

Dunn Senior Enthusiast

Dunn

Posted
Posted
On 3/19/2020 at 4:48 AM, zelmo said:

Ok, plenty of experiences of trucks being driven with no regard to a break-in procedure.  So why does GM put it in the manual?  Is it a catch that they can use to deny a warranty claim?

probably because they have too........litigation, legal, or etc....

 

some jackass will just turn it over and redline it til it blows right off the lot.or some variation....who knows

 

ive always driven them normally never had a problem in 30 plus years.....

Dunn Senior Enthusiast

Dunn

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, Nanotech Environmental said:

Doesn't matter what break-in method you use. To each his own. 

If you want to properly seat the rings, there is only one way & it isn't detailed in the manual.

when i raced motocross we used to cycle the engines to do exactly that....

  • 9 months later...
Olivoil Enthusiast

Olivoil

Posted
Posted (edited)

I wouldn't say you're necessarily strange. At my last company every time we got a new truck no one ever told us anything about breaking it in! Of course for a driver at first this seems very convenient and much easier than having to deal with the fuss of taking care of his truck for such a long time. Unfortunately this led most of the time  to engine issues, and it's not a nice scene having your truck stopped out in the middle of the highway!

Edited by txab
removed advertising
Dunn Senior Enthusiast

Dunn

Posted
Posted
On 3/22/2020 at 4:49 AM, Nanotech Environmental said:

You mean heat cycles? , or load cycles to create high cylinder pressures to seat the rings?

both i believe and depending if it was complete new motor or just top end....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Another JR
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By Another JR · Posted

      Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • newdude
      Gas fill door

      By newdude · Posted

      Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • jaszr2
      Active Grille Delete

      By jaszr2 · Posted

      Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...