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Posted

Post above is exactly right. My truck had the split bench seating up front and I just partially removed the panel amd it gave enough room to connect to the switch without completely removing it.

Posted (edited)

There is another way to install the inside of the cabin components of the upfitter switches that did not involve doing anything to the kick panel.  This may only apply to my truck version but it seems to have worked and was fast.

 

I looked at the rear of the switch cluster with a scope and then decided it was simply held in the kick panel with spring like clips.  Pulling very gently from the front with my fingers while pushing down on the 4 clips, the switch cluster was easily removed.  One could use the plastic sticks that are made to open a tablet or phone so there is no chance of damaging the cluster.

 

1156235363_switchcluster.png.fc9e983615c3c1f53acaa3b8f7854d15.png

 

There are 2 clips on the top and 2 on the bottom.   They are spring-like so pushing down to compress will allow them to pass through the panel.

 

clip.png.5c51a2060c5d7624d8a687222c8e5b95.png

 

Then connect the appropriate switch cable:

 

connected.png.b3e635018ac114d1cbca4e9480c33a1d.png

 

and finally insert back into the kick panel:

 

done.png.ac9871a5425dba12ab3f6d4820fd183c.png

 

Everything else documented in the beginning of this thread was followed to connect the power feed from the engine compartment to the switch controller.  Right now the hardest step is finding the correct size screws to mount the controller so it is temporarily supported with wire ties as used by others.

Edited by mobilelists
  • 1 month later...
Posted

new to the thread,  waited 6 months but finally got my 2022 3500hd with the bag of parts,  awesome explanation for the install, 

thankyou for taking the time to post it

tech bulletins have not been updated for 2022. have read this over several time and install seems easy but time consuming

 

question, i see how to change the power setting for 1 thru 4,  is 5 live all the time, thanks  

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

What gauge are the 5 wires (4+1)? Want to get to run same time as power cable.

  • 2 months later...
Posted

the elusive switch #5 wire,   after many years of 2 screws to remove 3rd brake light to get to the wire for dome light,

why must we now drop the headliner, remove the foil at back of cab to remove the light to gain access to the sw#5 wire??

 

anyone find an easier way besides rerouting it?  

 

 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 9/30/2022 at 7:57 AM, leolkfrm said:

the elusive switch #5 wire,   after many years of 2 screws to remove 3rd brake light to get to the wire for dome light,

why must we now drop the headliner, remove the foil at back of cab to remove the light to gain access to the sw#5 wire??

 

anyone find an easier way besides rerouting it?  

 

 

I believe there is a GM upfitter document that specifies where to drill above/into the third brake light to pull out the fifth wire for a roof light, etc. 

Posted (edited)

thankyou, 

Have you done this?, if so what did you use for a grommet, i have the bags of parts but did not notice one, maybe i need to sort thru again?

thanks again

 

So i just wen out to look at it,  my light does not match the picture, so i would be leary to start drilling holes in it

Edited by leolkfrm
Posted
20 hours ago, leolkfrm said:

thankyou, 

Have you done this?, if so what did you use for a grommet, i have the bags of parts but did not notice one, maybe i need to sort thru again?

thanks again

 

So i just wen out to look at it,  my light does not match the picture, so i would be leary to start drilling holes in it

I haven't done it, I don't have a roof mounted light. 

 

There are two sets of instructions in that document, one for trucks with a roof spoiler and one without. It's much easier if you don't have the spoiler, you just pull off the third brake light and create a small notch to allow the wires to pass through. 

Posted (edited)

fully aware of the old system, been doing it for years,  the spoiler setup in on my new one and my backrack is due in at the end of the month,  try to find an easier way before then

Edited by leolkfrm
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Just ordered my full kit. Hoping it's in stock and not just a bait and hold forever. Some of the individual part numbers are starting to show up as discontinued and the kit is perpetually in backorder on GM parts direct.

 

Those wanting to eventually do this might want to get theirs if they can. I ordered 84942073 for black interior w/ keyless start. Looking to use it primarily for lighting. Flush mount bumper foot cutout rear lights and maybe a lightbar for the hood scoop if I can manage a clean install.

  • 7 months later...
Posted

Question on these switches.

 

1) are these switches carrying load, or are they a negative lead style switch.

 

2) are the toggles like the 2015/2019 year trucks?

 

3) if I wanted to use them for an earlier year vehicle, just short of custom installing it, can they be wired to an external relay if you just had the pigtail wires that connect to the back?

 

Assuming adding power and ground for lighting for the buttons.  

 

Only reason I ask, is because I have a 2017 and I have a couple places I can mount this as I like the factory look.   The upfitter for my vehicle doesn't work as the relay wiring isn't populated and it's a bigger headache getting it setup.

 

Appreciate your feedback.

 

 

Posted

Well if you build your own like me, they don't carry load as the relay does that. The relays in my case are under the hood and the switches trigger the relay.

Posted

switches control the relay bank, load is connected to lead off the bank, fuse location on the bank control what is live all the time and what is live with ign on,  relay bank is mounted under the steering wheel in the dash

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