Gangly Posted May 4, 2020 Posted May 4, 2020 (edited) I tore down the front suspension this weekend to install the Eibach Pro-Truck Lift and was unsuccessful. The spring and shock went together fine and I was able to place the spring and shock into the upper shock mount, but the bottom of the shock where the two bolts mount to the lower control arm would not bolt up. The angle of the mounting surface on the bottom shock mount was at a significantly different angle than the mounting face on the lower control arm and therefore the bolts would not line up and begin to thread. No matter how I tried to compress the suspension or relax he suspension, the angle was much to different for the bolt to make it through both mounting surfaces and start threading into the clips. I will be calling Eibach this morning to address the issue and see if I was doing something wrong on the install. Edited May 4, 2020 by Gangly
Gangly Posted May 4, 2020 Author Posted May 4, 2020 I contacted Eibach and they said that the mounting surfaces should be flush. Seeing how they definitely werent, they asked that I send them photos of the shocks with part numbers, etc. to see if there is anything suspect. I hope to hear back from them shortly with an update and I'll forward the response to you all.
xsquid Posted May 4, 2020 Posted May 4, 2020 I think you have the top plate with the three studs off 180 degrees. The lower plate with the two holes is on an angle. You can clap the lower plate in a vise and twist plate in the rubber bushing. Or reorient the top plate so the angle of the lower plate is correct. 1
pewterliftedz Posted May 4, 2020 Posted May 4, 2020 3 hours ago, Gangly said: I contacted Eibach and they said that the mounting surfaces should be flush. Seeing how they definitely werent, they asked that I send them photos of the shocks with part numbers, etc. to see if there is anything suspect. I hope to hear back from them shortly with an update and I'll forward the response to you all. Can you post a picture of the different angles, your shock may just need to be turned. I've done this on the truck, with the upper bolted in just grab some channel locks and spin the shock 180* 1
HeySkippyDog Posted May 4, 2020 Posted May 4, 2020 Make sure you ran the top nut of your strut assembly down far enough. There is A LOT of preload on these springs, to the extent that I don't do front struts at home anymore.If you don't have that preload right, your strut will be too long.Sent from my SM-J810F using Tapatalk 1
Dunn Posted May 5, 2020 Posted May 5, 2020 2 hours ago, pewterliftedz said: Can you post a picture of the different angles, your shock may just need to be turned. I've done this on the truck, with the upper bolted in just grab some channel locks and spin the shock 180* this
Gangly Posted May 5, 2020 Author Posted May 5, 2020 (edited) Great suggestions guys, I'll address them below. -The shock does not need to be turned, the holes on the lower mount are oriented correctly, directly above the holes in the LCA. -I marked all parts of the assembly with a marker prior to installation so I know I am not off on its orientation. After throwing in the towel, I reinstalled the factory suspension the same way and it buttoned up perfectly. -You cannot install it 180 degrees off, the upper holes won't allow it and the bottom plate surface would be almost 90° perpendicular to the mounting surface of the LCA. The bottom plate was probably between 10° and 15° off. Just enough to keep the bolts from threading -I uninstalled and reinstalled the spring on the shock twice to make sure the nut was threaded all the way down. It was tightened and seated properly. The shock isn't too long, that's not an issue and it fits nicely otherwise. I've installed my fair share of shocks and I'm pretty familiar with the process, but this install has stumped me. One suggestion mentioned above was rotating the base plate within the bushing. I tried to do this but was unsuccessful. However, I didn't use a table vice since I was scared to tear the bushing so I only applied what forces I could muster by attempting to hold the shock in one hand and twisting the base plate with a set of pliers in the other hand. I didnt know you could do that to be honest since I've never had to in the past and was nervous about tearing the bushing. I'll put it in a vice and try to twist it harder next time I can fool with it, but I'll be out of town working the next three days and most likely won't get back to it until Saturday. I appreciate the time y'all took to reply with the great suggestions, most of which I have experienced in prior installs, and I hope y'all can throw some more great ones out there for anybody else reading this. Thanks again, I'll keep the updates coming as well. Edited May 5, 2020 by Gangly
Ryguy Posted May 5, 2020 Posted May 5, 2020 Yeah I had a hard time getting the bottom LCA strut bolts in too, the drivers side was okay but the passenger was a pain. Those cheesy washer clips that GM uses to secure the strut bolts don’t help the process either. 1
Gangly Posted May 5, 2020 Author Posted May 5, 2020 I'm not the best at communicating things clearly so here is a CAD diagram that shows what angle I'm referring too. The 8 degrees isnt accurate for my situation, its just an arbitrary angle I threw in there for yall's reference as to what angle I am referring to.
Gangly Posted May 5, 2020 Author Posted May 5, 2020 57 minutes ago, Ryguy said: Yeah I had a hard time getting the bottom LCA strut bolts in too, the drivers side was okay but the passenger was a pain. Those cheesy washer clips that GM uses to secure the strut bolts don’t help the process either. Glad to hear Im not the only one. I've considered removing the clips and using a washer and nut combination, but I want to see what Eibach has to say first.
Mac Cheeseman Posted May 6, 2020 Posted May 6, 2020 The clip nuts broke on mine so I just upgraded to a flange nut and they snugged right up. The ride is improved so much its well worth the effort. 1
mrcribbs Posted May 8, 2020 Posted May 8, 2020 On 5/5/2020 at 10:09 AM, Gangly said: Glad to hear Im not the only one. I've considered removing the clips and using a washer and nut combination, but I want to see what Eibach has to say first. Any update on this?
Gduck24 Posted May 8, 2020 Posted May 8, 2020 (edited) Those angles can be off quite a bit on some of the lifts me and a buddy have done. Sometimes helps to take the nut/clip off to get it started, then pry it straight, or hold it with pliers as it begins to seat when you tighten it up. They will snug up and that part of the strut will seat flat again. Some lifts require swapping from drivers side to pasenger side depending on the top spacer, and this can throw that bottom angle off the other way. And you can turn the bottoms separate from the top 180, as the other guys mentioned. Edited May 8, 2020 by Gduck24
Gangly Posted May 8, 2020 Author Posted May 8, 2020 Eibach sent me a drawing for their shock and I will be comparing measurements this weekend to see if the shock is in accordance with their specifications. Do y'all by chance know what flange nut size you used?
mrcribbs Posted June 4, 2020 Posted June 4, 2020 On 5/8/2020 at 12:48 PM, Gangly said: Eibach sent me a drawing for their shock and I will be comparing measurements this weekend to see if the shock is in accordance with their specifications. Do y'all by chance know what flange nut size you used? Did you ever get this installed?
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