What fuse to tap for Dash cam wiring + 2016 silverado

[catpartsman]

In my experience, Rexing’s customer service has always been super slow. It has always taken me several days to a few weeks to get a response from them via email. When making a phone call, the hold time was always 30 min or more.

With regards to the white screen, I’d say it’s a software issue with your camera. Check the firm ware for the latest update. My camera, V1 with review camera, goes black after about 5-10 min of being on. Then once the key is turned off, it powers down within 2-3 minutes but will comeback on and record if the truck is rocked hard enough.


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[DeathByNissan55]

Yea they aren't doing phones right now because of COVID, so email is it.  In the beginning they responded somewhat quickly, but not anymore....even gmail was like 'its been a while since they responded, would you like to email again' hahaha

 

When powered on the display is always on for v3, you have to press the power button to toggle the display off and you hold it to shut the camera down.  I dont know if this is something you can change in settings though.  I want to hide it somewhat behind me rear view mirror so only the camera lens is visible and I'd like the screen to be off.

 

We'll see what they say...I just want to know what fuse size to use so I can close my fuse box up, been driving around with the cover off so I dont have to disassemble it again haha.

[catpartsman]

Here’s my set up mounted.


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[DeathByNissan55]

UPDATE:
after pestering rexing more than a couple times and them giving me unrelated answers, and after returning mine and getting a new one because it was defective out of the box apparently, i got them to give me an answer on fusing:

 

Each wire on the permanent install harness, draws less than 1A.  The smallest fuse I could get in the ATR micro2 style is 5A, so i left the original size fuse in the existing fuse slot of the add-a-circuit, then installed a 5A fuse in each of the added circuit slots for each add-a-circuit.

 

Finally got my fuse boxed all closed up and everything works how I want, just waiting to have a friend help me get it mounted the way I want, using the suction cup mount for the mean time.

[DeathByNissan55]

also i figured out, that I can make my display turn off after like 15s and make the beeping going away.

 

I plan on hiding mine in a similar area.

[Kurt Hoffman]

Just sharing this in case someone finds this thread while researching 2015.

 

I have a 2015 Silverado 1500 LT.

 

I'm adding a dashcam hardwire kit which allows for ACC and Constant power (for parking monitor)

 

Here's what I found in the left/driver's side fuse box:

- Fuses 2, 30, 31, and 32 appear to be ACC/switched

- The rest seem to be constant

- 9 was a spare, so I'm using that to tap for the constant

- 32 is heated steering wheel (which I don't have), so I'm tapping into that for ACC/Switched

- Line sides are highlighted with blue marker

 

Sorry for the crude labels.  Hope this helps someone. 

[mikeyk101]

1 hour ago, Kurt Hoffman said:

Just sharing this in case someone finds this thread while researching 2015.

 

I have a 2015 Silverado 1500 LT.

 

I'm adding a dashcam hardwire kit which allows for ACC and Constant power (for parking monitor)

 

Here's what I found in the left/driver's side fuse box:

- Fuses 2, 30, 31, and 32 appear to be ACC/switched

- The rest seem to be constant

- 9 was a spare, so I'm using that to tap for the constant

- 32 is heated steering wheel (which I don't have), so I'm tapping into that for ACC/Switched

- Line sides are highlighted with blue marker

 

Sorry for the crude labels.  Hope this helps someone. 

For my dashcam install on my 2016, I too used those piggyback back add a tap double fuse holders. I used #36 which is a spare and hot all the time for constant power and then used #30 which is SEO ALC for switched power. SEO ALC stands for Special Equipment Option- Advanced Leveling Control which I don't have. So both of those were perfect options to use for me. I had been using #31 Accy/Run/Crnk for switched power and it worked just fine with no issues but was advised that it wasn't a good idea to tap that so I changed that to #30 instead.

Edited December 29, 2021 by mikeyk101

[dieselfan1]

1 hour ago, mikeyk101 said:

For my dashcam install on my 2016, I too used those piggyback back add a tap double fuse holders. I used #36 which is a spare and hot all the time for constant power and then used #30 which is SEO ALC for switched power. SEO ALC stands for Special Equipment Option- Advanced Leveling Control which I don't have. So both of those were perfect options to use for me. I had been using #31 Accy/Run/Crnk for switched power and it worked just fine with no issues but was advised that it wasn't a good idea to tap that so I changed that to #30 instead.

Mikey

I'm using #31 . So I should switch to #30?

[mikeyk101]

5 hours ago, dieselfan1 said:

Mikey

I'm using #31 . So I should switch to #30?

Personally I don't think there is an issue with using #31. I had been doing that without any issue for a couple months and worked perfectly fine.  But in the previous thread where I detailed my connections, @benelliposted this:

 

"fuse #36 is fine for constant power,but i wouldnt use #31 for switched power. thats for run crank. You can use the large purple 50 amp APO RAP# 10. Thants switched power when key is on"

 

IMHO, that really didn't tell me why. The #31 fuse is actually Accy/Run/Crnk and not just run crank. Since it was simple enough to just switch over to #30, I went ahead and did it. Basically does the exact same thing that I got from #31 but wasn't sure if @benelli knew something I didn't and he never came back to that thread to elaborate further and explain his post. Using the #10 50 amp APO RAP fuse wasn't going to work for my situation.

Edited December 30, 2021 by mikeyk101

[dieselfan1]

9 hours ago, mikeyk101 said:

Personally I don't think there is an issue with using #31. I had been doing that without any issue for a couple months and worked perfectly fine.  But in the previous thread where I detailed my connections, @benelliposted this:

 

"fuse #36 is fine for constant power,but i wouldnt use #31 for switched power. thats for run crank. You can use the large purple 50 amp APO RAP# 10. Thants switched power when key is on"

 

IMHO, that really didn't tell me why. The #31 fuse is actually Accy/Run/Crnk and not just run crank. Since it was simple enough to just switch over to #30, I went ahead and did it. Basically does the exact same thing that I got from #31 but wasn't sure if @benelli knew something I didn't and he never came back to that thread to elaborate further and explain his post. Using the #10 50 amp APO RAP fuse wasn't going to work for my situation.

I don't need any issues so I'll switch it to 30 .

Thanks 

[J R A]

On 6/17/2020 at 4:53 PM, DeathByNissan55 said:

I have a 2016 silverado.

Already have my rexing v3 dash cam installed, just haven't landed the wires because i'm not sure which fuses to replace with my harness.

 

My harness can be found here:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RN24B7V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 

 

Here is the owners manual. go to page 406 for it to tell you which fuse box I'm running to and what each fuse is for (I'm running to the Left Instrument Cluster Fuse Block, left side of the dash, the door covers it when its closed):
http://www.american-automobile.com/2016_silverado.pdf

I really really REALLY hope I dont have to run it to the other fuse block instead since I already ran it over to the left one cleanly.

 

Right now my harness comes with 2x ATM style fuse taps, I know that this fuse box has micro fuses in it as well so I am prepared to cutt off the provided fuse taps to install the ones I have.

The picture in the amazon add describes that the yellow wire is for constant 12VDC power regardless of door being open/closed or ign being on/off, and red is for switching ignition power that only comes on when you have the key on.

 

I am getting zero support from the dealer, the mftr of the dashcam has provided me as much help as they can but they obviously dont want to take responsibility in case what they tell me affects another system which is understandable.

I reached out to a mobile car audio/electronics installer and they only seem to hardwire install things which I dont want to do.  The fuse taps take the place of the fuse is a much more reliable method as this dash cam draws almost no power, and its completely reversible in case I sell my vehicle.

 

Hope someone can help me out.

On a 2017 GMC it is #31 (ACC/Run Crk) for accessory and #26 (Spare-15A) for B+ constant power.

[swathdiver]

Folks, get a USB to generic adapter from Dongar technologies and plug the terminal ends into the connector that goes to your mirror.

 

On my GMT900s, that is pins 1 and 8.