Jump to content

Wiper blade replacement options?

dave_clt
 Share

Recommended Posts

dave_clt Enthusiast

dave_clt

Posted
Posted

I've searched past threads (linked below) to see what other owners have done when changing out the OEM blades, but didn't find anything recent so thought I'd start a thread to ask....

 

Don't drive my truck all that much (primarily and infrequently used to tow enclosed trailer) so the OEM blades have been fine unchanged since purchase in 2016.  Last time out, it rained and they started really chattering.  While I know I can polish the windshield for some improvement, the blades are likely due anyway after four years.

 

I've had good luck on other vehicles with Bosch and higher end Trico blades.  Very little snow here in NC, mainly rain when I use them.  Anybody got more recent experience on blades specific to our truck?

 

Searched threads

------------------------------

no-HD blade thread

 

 

wiper chatter 

 

Chebbyfan Enthusiast

Chebbyfan

Posted
Posted

I just put a pair of Bosch OE icon, I think is what they were, on my 15.  Not a perfect fit, but they are tight and didn't come off running full blast on a road trip we just took in a blinding rainstorm.  The passenger side fit well, but the tabs didn't fit the drivers side arm the same.  I may take them back and look for something different.

  • Thanks 1
Cosmic Charlie Enthusiast

Cosmic Charlie

Posted
Posted

Bosch 22 OE Icons work very good and last "long time"

even when they are over 1 year old they work great after a few minutes to warm up +- get flexible

  • Thanks 1
  • 1 month later...
pacokarp Enthusiast

pacokarp

Posted
Posted

I did Bosch ICON's on my 2016 LTZ and they are AWESOME!  A little pricey but since you only have to replace them about every three years it is worth it to me.

  • Thanks 1
Colossus Senior Enthusiast

Colossus

Posted
Posted

Bosch Icon.  I'm tired of the cheapy Goodyears or whatever they have at Costco only good for 6 months at the most.  Up here at altitude, UV and dry takes it toll quickly. 

  • Thanks 1
gearheadesw Senior Enthusiast

gearheadesw

Posted
Posted

I've had good luck with Michelin Stealth blades, I think they are a winter blade, but I find them in Florida, and they work well in the rain.

ftwhite Enthusiast

ftwhite

Posted
Posted

PIAA Si-Tech (silicone instead of rubber). Last long, wipe good. Quiet. But I don't drive an HD. Just a little 1500. ?

Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted

I've been very happy with the OEM direct replacement ACDelco. I have got one bad wiper. Hard spot in the rubber. GM warranty gave me another free even at 2 years old. No adapter required so the fit right and work right. I get four to five years of northern Illinois weather service. 

 

Yes I am a glass cleaning fanatic ?.  I also drive 25-30K a year. Wipers were never intended to clean of ice, tree debris or dried bugs and bird crap. Keep the glass clean and wipers serviced and they just work when needed. Use Rain-X or Meguiar's liquid hybrid ceramic and you won't use those wipers often. Cleaning takes seconds.   

JimCost2014 Senior Enthusiast

JimCost2014

Posted
Posted (edited)

Factory (OEM), fit great, easy install, and are fantastic when they are new. A little spendy, but you really get what you pay for with items like this.

Edited by JimCost2014
Cosmic Charlie Enthusiast

Cosmic Charlie

Posted
Posted

Wiper Tech def better than years ago ... I usually scrape the dead bugs off my windshield with a single edge razor like every week - amazing how bug inner parts stuff is like super glue on glass - could use it to re-glue the rear view mirror on +- lol

Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted (edited)
10 hours ago, Cosmic Charlie said:

Wiper Tech def better than years ago ... I usually scrape the dead bugs off my windshield with a single edge razor like every week - amazing how bug inner parts stuff is like super glue on glass - could use it to re-glue the rear view mirror on +- lol

I rode motorcycles for decades and found out that bug wings are like litter razor blades to fork seals and allot harder to replace. Worse on wiper blades. It's a softer rubber. 

 

Kid you not, this Meguiar's liquid hybrid ceramic is something. In the cool of the morning a COLD damp microfiber and they slide off. Darn near jump off the truck. Paint, glass, plastic, rubber.... 

 

I drive an hour near sundown. Wife likes to watch the sunsets and photograph them. Next morning it was Bounce sheets and a couple hours cleaning all forward surfaces and re-waxing. Takes me under five minutes with a bucket of cold water and microfiber to wipe down the entire truck now. 90 SECONDS to do the forward surfaces alone. Looks freshly washed every day in minutes. 

 

Got caught in that squall line that past though our area a few days ago that has a thousand utility trucks up here. Several  inches of water in minutes driven by 80 mph winds. Didn't even  run the wipers until I slowed low enough (blocking traffic) that the wind wasn't doing the wipers job.  

 

First time I used it I followed instructions and.....meh. Then I applied it after a good wash and clay but like a regular liquid wax and BOOM!! 

 

But any decent blade needs a clean surface to work well and last awhile. 

Edited by Grumpy Bear
  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
theJman Enthusiast

theJman

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 6/22/2020 at 6:09 PM, dave_clt said:

Don't drive my truck all that much (primarily and infrequently used to tow enclosed trailer) so the OEM blades have been fine unchanged since purchase in 2016. 

It's funny you mention that because I was just thinking about this on my way home in the rain today.  I bought my 2018 new 27 months ago and I'm still using the OEM blades.  Half a dozen times a year I'll wipe them down using a window cleaner (without alcohol or ammonia) but that's it.  I never thought I'd say this but when they do go I might just buy another set.  Generally I have to buy new blades every 1-1.5 years so even if they're typical GM over-priced if I only have to swap them every 3 years it might be worth it.

Edited by theJman

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Coastie05
      2027 GMC Sierra: Official Discussion

      By Coastie05 · Posted

      Sure, but they do have some affordable options like the Trax, Trailblazer, Envista, and Encore. Some of these have a cheaper base price than the Civic, though the fuel economy isn’t as high. The main problem is that people WANT the highest trim with all the goodies and finance for like 7 years. That’s how ppl “afford” the more expensive vehicles. 
    • Jsdirt
      07 yukon xl 6.2 stalls at hot idle and wont restart

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      Holy s**t - not much of a parts thrower you say? You BLASTED that thing with the parts cannon!  You'd have been probably $1,000 ahead if you had just brought it to a competent shop rather than shotgunning a bunch of parts it clearly didn't need.   Just FYI - oil additives are really, REALLY good at ONE thing ... and that's emptying your wallet. They're ALL useless gimmicks.   If that has the L94 or L99, then #7 is an AFM cylinder. I'd suspect a failed lifter in that case.   If you leaned on wiring, sensors, and/or connectors while changing the oil, you'll have to check all that to be sure pins didn't get pulled out, connectors broken, etc.. Old wire loom that was barely adequate when new is certainly brittle by year 19 - make sure wires aren't chaffed and shorting out somewhere where you might have leaned. or supported yourself on it.   If your a mechanic, why didn't you just find out what you were missing and troubleshoot from there??  TIMED spark, fuel PSI / injector pulse, air, compression.  Can't make ANY money going the parts cannon route.
    • Jsdirt
      2027 GMC Sierra: Official Discussion

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      LOL! Are you joking?? That wax SUCKS! 100% gimmick made to "look" good.    After just TWO winters I had severe surface rusting in patches over 90% of the frame. Only reason it looks great in the pics is because I SATURATED the frame every single fall with used motor oil for 14 of the 16 years I owned it. Otherwise it would've been sent to the crusher 8 years earlier with the speed it was rusting prior!    I sold that POS 3 years ago. Was a gigantic headache the second it rolled off the showroom floor. Brakes pulsated on the TEST DRIVE. Door trim fell off the 1st week! Interior squeaked and rattled, and the drivetrain clunked after 2k miles. 4x4 switch failed shortly after. Front end - ball joints, struts, hub bearings - all failed between 38k-50k. Engine started burning oil at 50k. Rear and and transmission failed before 100k. Nothing but problems, and frustration with the piss-poor engineering designed to make you give up. Well, it worked! Nothing on that truck was easy to remove ... except the wheels. They haven't figured out how to screw that up yet. Give 'em time ...   I won't make that mistake again. EVER.   Such fond memories ... https://postimg.cc/K1qf23tS  https://postimg.cc/gallery/X02z64J  https://postimg.cc/gallery/mHSRXZv  https://postimg.cc/gallery/D4mMRfL
    • davester
      OBD not ready?

      By davester · Posted

      Different monitors do their test only under conditions specific to that monitor.  you MIGHT find the drive cycle conditions for the monitor that isn't ready on this site: https://lemon-manuals.la/   If it's not there, then it should be on alldata.com for your truck, but it requires a paid subscription.   And you need to know which specific monitor isn't ready.
    • RW2018GMC
      Me too……..

      By RW2018GMC · Posted

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...