Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Looks aftermarket. Did you try scanning that QR code?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted
I’ll see if it is. Is it most likely that if it’s ran into those wires?
Given it ha serv, dom and version listed I'd say likely so. Never know tho. Lets see where the wires go

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk

Posted
Given it ha serv, dom and version listed I'd say likely so. Never know tho. Lets see where the wires go

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk


Fill me in please, because I’m not following the the significance of date of manufacture (dom), serial number, and version. That seems to fit any electronic device with firmware. How does that narrow it down to GPS?
Posted

Fill me in please, because I’m not following the the significance of date of manufacture (dom), serial number, and version. That seems to fit any electronic device with firmware. How does that narrow it down to GPS?
Looks like your filled in...


So what is it? Please fill the rest of us in.

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk

Posted
2 minutes ago, Snowcamo said:

Looks like your filled in...


So what is it? Please fill the rest of us in.

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
 

This is what the wires are hooked onto 

46108E9F-D991-4DBD-A1D0-8FAF4EBBD73F.jpeg

  • Like 1
Posted

QT6 on the new trucks is the power tailgate.  Dunno what QT6 is on a 2016 Sierra.

 

But whatever you do, don't cut the red wire.

 

 

  • Like 3
Posted
Looks like your filled in...


So what is it? Please fill the rest of us in.

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk


As I said, those don’t narrow it down other than that it is an electronic device. Sorry to ruffle your feathers - I thought you might have some new i formation.
Posted

As I said, those don’t narrow it down other than that it is an electronic device. Sorry to ruffle your feathers - I thought you might have some new i formation.
No worries. No prob here. Just seeing if you know anything on this.

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk

Posted
16 minutes ago, MaverickZ71 said:

QT6 on the new trucks is the power tailgate.  Dunno what QT6 is on a 2016 Sierra.

 

But whatever you do, don't cut the red wire.

 

 

So what’s it supposed to do 

Posted

If you can provide the wire colors and connector color that these are spliced into, I can see if I can decipher it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 3
Posted
18 hours ago, jose barcenas said:

This is what the wires are hooked onto 

46108E9F-D991-4DBD-A1D0-8FAF4EBBD73F.jpeg

Two things (for sure)...this isn't stock and The Harness Dr wasn't involved in this. :0)

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • My house is set at 75. My car at 70. When I have guests the house is at 70. 
    • OK you say you could hang meat but what was the actual temp? One of the AC systems job is to remove humidity that we feel on our body your new system removed alot of humidity as that is were the water comes from on the ac coils and that made it feel colder. 80 degrees with high humidity will feel hot vs 80 degrees with low humidity will feel alot cooler.
    • I was using recirc/max air. Especially if it really hot i start out by lowering the front windows a little with regular ac the go to recirculation after a few and rolling windows up. And it does not have the newest refrigerant. It has per the info under the hood r134. Not the new r1234yf.  
    • tldr; Shade tree mechanic stumped by variable displacement AC compressor.   Not Silverado related, but for my 2000 Camaro SS. I've never really used the AC since acquiring the car a good handful of years ago. I plan to take it on a trip this summer so I wanted to make sure the AC was in good shape. On an 73 degree day in the shop with the car idling I set the AC on "Max", temp set to cold, and fan on hi. The compressor turned on and air turned nice and cold.   I let it run for several minutes but noticed the compressor never cycled off. The engine was up to temperature enough that it began cycling the cooling fans on high. I had a set of manifold gauges hooked up and it was consistently at about 25 psi on the low side and between 200 and 225 psi (warm engine) on the high side. Per temperature charts, the low side is low (should be 30-35) and the high side is a little high (up to 170 per chart). I read the low pressure as potentially being under-charged underscored by a continually running compressor This was also underscored by temp readings of mid-20 degrees at the vents. Not just cold, freezing cold. Switching off the AC but leaving the HVAC fan on high produced a deluge of condensation underneath the vehicle. I was getting ice buildup on the evap core most likely.   The low reading (25psi) concerned me that the compressor wasn't switching off so I swapped out the pressure switch. No change in behavior, still ran constantly.   The AC clutch works fine as it engages/disengages with the HVAC switch on command. The compressor relay is good as I swapped it with two different known good relays just to be sure. Having eliminated that, and the pressure switch, I added refrigerant, thinking the constant run and low "low" pressure were signs of a slight undercharge. Makes sense, the car is 26 years old and it doesn't appear the AC system has ever been touched.   Adding some R134a didn't meaningfully change the low side pressure. And that's when a lightbulb flashed upstairs. While I consider the car "old", it's possibly "new" enough to have a variable displacement compressor. Did some reading and sure enough. Dangit. I don't work on these for this reason.   Adding refrigerant means the compressor will just compensate and won't really change pressures until it's severely overcharged or undercharged. But at least I wasn't getting ice/frost anymore, but instead high 30 degree temps out of the vents. That's more normal, but with variable displacement now I have no idea where my charge level is at. It's probably overcharged now. The high side even with the engine radiating serious heat was never really over about 225.   The static pressure at room temperature is dead on, before and after the charge. Both high/low equalize after some rest.   I'm thinking I'll need to take it to a shop. I want the proper charge level so I'm not working the compressor too hard. The only way to get an accurate charge is to evacuate and then re-charge with the exact amount specified for the system -- at least that's what I'm reading.   Anyone here with modern automotive AC knowledge?  
    • Mine is in the shop for the AC now. While it did get cold after a bit, it would take a while to even start to cool the air at all. Turns out the compressor was bad and cycling. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...