Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

During the summer time during college, I would help my buddy who owns a tint shop and we both used to tint our windshields 35%. The amount of UV protection,  along with heat rejection was awesome. We used to tint windshields inside the vehicles all the time, BUT, with the amount of electronics in these newer vehicles the "RISK" isn't worth it, I know first hand, I have seen a GMC Denali come back with messed up electronics in the dash! It cost my buddy almost $2k to have it fixed. He is not a guy who argues or wants to fight with the customer. He quite professional! He called the local Chevy dealership who he works with for tint jobs on new/used vehicles that are sold, and they admitted it was messed up.  So if someone wants it tinted from now on. He does it outside of the vehicle.

 

Meaning......if someone needs a new windshield installed, he will do it, then have it installed at the glass shop next door, or if you wanna pay $200 to have it removed, then reinstalled he would do that.  I love my front windshield tinted.....it's the best, but last month, I wouldn't do it because of this reason, if I ever need a new windshield, it will get done though!!  I only have a 5% strip along the top of the windshield now that goes evenly with the rear-view mirror mount

 

The other problem with tinting a windshield is that it requires a large amount of water for the tint to move properly on the glass without causing glue marks on the window and/or creases in the tint. Even when he has put down sheet after sheet on the dash, it still gets saturated pretty good. Before someone on here states that he doesn't know what he is doing.  He has been in business over 25 years, and actually went to Vegas and competed in there tinting contests in the 90's and placed, so he knows how to tint!  I actually get a kick out of going to tint shops when I see them in certain towns and will go there and ask questions, and also ask to see their work and it's always entertaining to see other peoples work. Some is very good, while others....not so much.

 

 

Edited by TNTSilverado
  • Like 2
Posted

Getting my windshield and front windows done today mainly for heat.  No mention of a any type of waiver.  

Posted
Getting my windshield and front windows done today mainly for heat.  No mention of a any type of waiver.  
If tinting the front windshield is illegal in your state I would just assume that you are already "at your own risk".

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

Posted
1 hour ago, jljii said:

Getting my windshield and front windows done today mainly for heat.  No mention of a any type of waiver.  

Let me know if you run into any issues with your windshield. 

Posted

There is definitely a lot of water/solution used to clean or used to lube the tint before it’s squeeged. So that’s a viable excuse to sign that waiver. Especially with a POV story above. 
 

There are other tint shops around as well. 

Posted

Got my ceramic done today. 20 on front windows and 55 over factory tint and windshield. Guy has been in business 20 years and told me he covers the dash in an absorbent mat and crams a soak rope between the dash and windshield glass. Says it’s the only way to do it safely. Rang water out of that soak rope when finished. Short drive home with no noticeable flaws.  

  • Like 1
Posted

I've had no problems with tinting the windshield. '20 Sierra Denali. I asked before having it done if there were any issues, given the HUD, cameras and such. Guy said no problem tinting the windshield on this truck. Guy is a professional and has done my tint for years. 

Posted

I have 35% on my windshield and its perfect. Shop gave me no issues. I did 15% on all the other windows. I have ran this setup on 4 vehicles in a row now with no issue. Ive had work done in either ohio or indiana and never signed a waiver. 

 

I will say idk what type of tint he used this time but from the outside ivd never seen such a dark looking tint. Makes me nervous but it is what it is. On the inside for me its perfect 

Posted
I have 35% on my windshield and its perfect. Shop gave me no issues. I did 15% on all the other windows. I have ran this setup on 4 vehicles in a row now with no issue. Ive had work done in either ohio or indiana and never signed a waiver. 
 
I will say idk what type of tint he used this time but from the outside ivd never seen such a dark looking tint. Makes me nervous but it is what it is. On the inside for me its perfect 
How is the night vision on back roads without street light?

My 03 2500 is 5% all around (no factory tint) and works really well. But this new truck we did 15 front 20 rear over factory tint and it looks way too light. Can see right into the back seat

Going in today to get it replaced wondering if doing something to the front glass would help.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

Posted
7 hours ago, topgear1224 said:

How is the night vision on back roads without street light?

My 03 2500 is 5% all around (no factory tint) and works really well. But this new truck we did 15 front 20 rear over factory tint and it looks way too light. Can see right into the back seat

Going in today to get it replaced wondering if doing something to the front glass would help.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
 

No issues here. 

 

Biggest issue us that with the tint and the stupid bright screen when in reverse the light blinds me and tends to reflect off my tint

  • Like 1
Posted

I have my entire front done at 35% - I have no issues seeing at night.  Sides are 15%, so front doesn't really look that dark.

Posted
On 7/21/2020 at 5:23 PM, IlliniST said:

Yep. I'm in the Tomball area and had my Suburban done twice (had to replace the windshield) and never heard a thing about issues, waivers, etc.  Oh, and it was GREAT.  Kept the heat down considerably.

I’m in Texas too. How does the state sticker affect the windshield tint. I’m concerned about removing old sticker and damaging the tint? 

Posted
4 hours ago, lebag335 said:

I’m in Texas too. How does the state sticker affect the windshield tint. I’m concerned about removing old sticker and damaging the tint? 

I had no issues, but to be fair I didn't apply the sticker as hard-ass as I normally would. I pressed it into place and made sure it was stuck. Time to change and I picked the corner with a fingernail and it came off clean. Applied the next the same way. Just don't use a scraper or bad on it. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,978
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    rayredbone
    Newest Member
    rayredbone
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 501 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Question @diyer2 on this line if you please. Are you saying the shudder is the system turning on and off at the frequency of the shudder? Guess I'm asking if you are saying you have seen it do this with the bi-direction scan tool in graph mode? If so have you been able to discern the 'trigger'. Something is telling to cycle rapidly.    My truck just started doing this recently. 197K on the clock. My response has been M5 anything under 55 mph. I treat it like a lugging stick shift. Gear down and let it spin a bit. Engauge M5, then tow mode and then M6 lets the trans stay in 5th but the AFM is active. Smooth like Skippy.    My thought was that as a machine ages the friction gets lower and as the system is load based, the lower friction would allow it to turn on at ever lower rpm until it reaches the lugging point. And yes I am ignorant of any minimum rpm requirement for the system. If you know that would be useful information.    As you know I run a Scan-Gauge II which allows me to watch the On/Off of the signal to the VLOM. While in the shudder mode I'm not seeing is cycle at that frequency or at all for that matter outside the triggers @newdude posted a few years back. Now is it possible that the refresh rate isn't fast enough to catch it? Maybe. It is why I asked my first question about graphing and trigging parameter.     As we have observed from members here the failure point is all over the map miles wise as you note yourself in your opening post. That by itself begs a few questions like fellows that comment on these lifters failing even after the system has been disabled. Long after. 😬   https://www.enginelabs.com/news/tech-tips-replacing-ls-active-fuel-management-lifters-with-melling/   The Gen5 lifters operate the same as the LS versions. In fact they are the same lifter.    https://www.enginelabs.com/tech-stories/sorting-out-gen-v-lt-lifter-failure-with-a-simple-valvetrain-fix/        
    • UPDATE 2: Steering wheel control backlights and control of the cluster can supposedly be achieved by adding a wire to pin 20 of the cluster and tapping it to pin 2 of the main clock spring harness. I'm going to give it a shot - will update  
    • GM Global A pickups 2019-2022 can do OTA programming for the radio.  GM VIP (GM Global B) can do OTAs for almost every module on board.  So a 2022.5 and newer pickup can do OTAs for recalls like the 2.7 fuel flow recall.  EVs get OTAs that improve one pedal driving, radio issues, HVAC issues, updated battery management software, etc.     So age of the vehicle/what GM electrical platform its on will alter what amount of updates can be pushed on OTAs.  
    • Thank You.   So far my new ride is making me look like a genius for going with the 3.0L, as my first fuel refill occurred over three weeks from when I took delivery.  This engine combination is very amazing.  So far no issues and had not done a regen yet.
    • I am curious as to how much fluid you put back in the transmission ( assuming you had replaced the filter to compare to my findings ) and then went through the process of warming up the trans before pulling the check plug to drain out the excess and if you measured how much came back out.    I just found it surprising that some claimed a certain amount less fluid being put in and then draining some back out. The attitude of the truck as per if the surface is level and how the trucks stance is would make quite a difference since the check plug is right at the front of the transmission. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...