Jump to content

Cooled seats barely cool.

chukronos
 Share

Recommended Posts

chukronos Enthusiast

chukronos

Posted
Posted

I am barely able to feel my cooled seats. When I test drove the Ram, they were strong. Is there something I can do to make them work better? They are almost non-existent. 

2020HD Enthusiast

2020HD

Posted
Posted
I am barely able to feel my cooled seats. When I test drove the Ram, they were strong. Is there something I can do to make them work better? They are almost non-existent. 
Same here. There cool for the first few seconds then go away and can barely feel them

Sent from my SM-G988U1 using Tapatalk

OnTheReel Senior Enthusiast

OnTheReel

Posted
Posted

They aren’t “cooled”, just ventilated. So they are only as cool as the cabin. GM got rid of the real A/C seats after 2015.

  • Like 2
2020HD Enthusiast

2020HD

Posted
Posted
They aren’t “cooled”, just ventilated. So they are only as cool as the cabin. GM got rid of the real A/C seats after 2015.
Well that explains it cause my old 2015 seats were way cooler all the time.

Sent from my SM-G988U1 using Tapatalk

07HD Enthusiast

07HD

Posted
Posted

Just get a set of Ram seats and put in that Denali.

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1
mookdoc6 Senior Enthusiast

mookdoc6

Posted
Posted (edited)

These comments are priceless...Love it!  It wouldn't be complete unless you guys put in the steering wheel with the RAM Emblem...now we're talking!

Edited by mookdoc6
  • Haha 1
redwngr Senior Enthusiast

redwngr

Posted
Posted
4 hours ago, 2020HD said:

Well that explains it cause my old 2015 seats were way cooler all the time.

Sent from my SM-G988U1 using Tapatalk
 

We had a 15 and then a 16.

 

IMHO, the '16 did a better job of cooling/drying the butt.

 

Yes, I know that the 16 is just ventilated and the 15 had the peltier coolers.

I think it was because the 16 moved more air.

 

Anyway, with the 15 I often left it set on max cool

With the 16 (and the current '18) I often/usually move it to a 'less cool' setting. 

 

I suspect it is because the 'ventilated' ones move more air.

 

 

 

Chevyguy273 Enthusiast

Chevyguy273

Posted
Posted

New Silverado owner here. After 20  years of sedans. I find using the high fan setting on the ventilated seats along with the low temp setting for the driver’s climate control along with maybe 75% fan speed. My private parts start to tingle after about 15 minutes. That’s 1 feature I’ve gotten to know really well in the 2 weeks I’ve owned this gargantuan land yacht. The ac blows arctic ?. I have to adjust the temperature on my side after 15 minutes or less. And it’s been 85-90 for the past 10 days. 

07HD Enthusiast

07HD

Posted
Posted (edited)

Here's a thought. My 2020 sierra HD. Works great, and anyone with a skinny a** like mine would be just fine, cant leave it on high for more than a minute. All in good fun.

Edited by 07HD
Added a word
Jav_eee Enthusiast

Jav_eee

Posted
Posted
Here's a thought. My 2020 sierra HD. Works great, and anyone with a skinny a** like mine would be just fine, cant leave it on high for more than a minute.


So what’s the thought?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • XY74
      Roll up bed cover experiences

      By XY74 · Posted

      I have a Retrax pro that I first had on my 2020 chevy and transferred it to my current GMC.  It stays in the garage most of the time, so hard for me to judge it's long term weather resistance.  It still works perfectly, been very durable.  It doesn't see oil patch usage, but it's not a mall queen.  It keeps most things mostly dry (small leaks) and the security of it is enough to slow someone down but not keep them out for long.  I would buy one again, it works for me.     
    • fm2176
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By fm2176 · Posted

      Thanks to the convenience of Amazon, I was able to get a few things done to the truck today.  I installed Carquest Premium oil and air filters with five quarts of Mobil1 High Mileage 10-30 along with a quart of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 I already had.  The latch for the flip up center console lid was broken so I replaced it along with the power mirror switch.  I found my push retainer assortment this morning and reattached the plastic under the bumper and it was only held on with a few screws and retainers.  Then I programmed a new remote keyless entry fob so I can lock my dog in the truck when I take her out with me (I've got to keep the air going for her since it's been in the 100s).  Finally, I ordered some LED interior bulbs and replaced the reading lamps.  The front lights are working fine while one of the back lights only works intermittently and the other not at all.   While under the truck, I found the source of at least one of the noises: the sway bar links need replacing.  I ordered a set of Suspension Dudes links with Code Red bushings.  Never heard of them, but they're made in the USA and have decent reviews.  While making yet another Amazon order, I went ahead and added a set of front tow hooks.  I went with red, since that's the color of the sway bar link and bushings and it should look decent enough on a black and chrome truck.  Speaking of which, it doesn't bug me much, but the passenger side mirror has a chrome cap while the driver side doesn't, so eventually I'll make them match one way or another.  Oh, and I ordered a $20 TPMS reset tool.  No idea if it will do anything for my sensors but it was cheap and will work for the Ford Transit Connect as well.     For tradition's sake, I ordered a new oil change wrench.  I kept the Snap-On 9/16"x15mm GM wrench I bought when I was 18 in the 2006 GMC from the time I bought that truck until the truck was lost.  While I was tempted, there's no need to spend $80 for a new SO wrench, or even $50 with shipping for a used one on Ebay.  I just bought a Duratech 15mm extra-long ratcheting wrench to do the job as needed.  It works, and if I like that wrench enough, I'll buy the set.  
    • Another JR
      Multigate electrical problem

      By Another JR · Posted

      The recall is for exactly this issue - those drain holes combined with the limited environmental capability of the tailgate electronics card inside the tailgate were a problem. The “safety issue” was the potential for the tailgate to spontaneously open, but all kinds of tailgate misbehavior can occur from water contamination of that control card.    There is no real fix yet. The initial recall just disabled the tailgate. Later, when parts became available, they would replace bad parts with new parts of the same bad design. My dealer is going nuts because the few times I let them get their hands on my truck, my tailgate is off due to a slide-in camper installation. They really want to cut my tailgate wires, but I won’t give them the chance. I will let them get their dirty hands on it when a real fix (redesign) is available.  My tailgate, which works just fine with sealant plugging the drain holes, will remain safe in a dry storage crate until then.  
    • JakeD
      Tire fitment

      By JakeD · Posted

      Yes your absolutely right, I been looking at the 4 inch BDS one and it acutely states you can use the stock 20’s just not the 17’s or 18’s, I also didn’t realize that with my 275/60r20 stock wheels I’m already running 33 inch diameter wheel setup lol so I can just run my stock wheels and tires atleast to start.
    • davester
      Tire fitment

      By davester · Posted

      I would expect that to be lift-kit dependent.  If the kit has interference issues w stock wheels, then the kit/manufacturer should indicate that somewhere.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...