Jump to content

Leaking rear window

redpat2061
 Share

Recommended Posts

redpat2061 New Member

redpat2061

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey guys I have seen leaking rear window or third brake light alluded to in a few places but not much specific information about this. Just that it's a known issue. 

 

Can anyone tell me anything specific about where the leak might be located? My dealership took 8 days to re-seal the brake light according to some service bulletin, but evidently did not test it because the first time it rained after I got it back, water was coming in to the cab in exactly the same place. 

 

My poor truck has now spent more time in service than my driveway. 

 

Anything you guys can tell me would be appreciated. My service people need help. 

20200924_140027.jpg

Edited by redpat2061
  • 2 weeks later...
  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Pryme
Pryme

It seems some of these truck’s issues stem from the upper end options. Not to make light of any problems but that is a big reason I went with a WT(and because I’m cheap) it has a solid rear window(at

NWSierra
NWSierra

Went to solid rear window. really happy with it. Always liked the look even if it was less one upgrade option. The old window was a mess, cracked at the top/bottom of each "slider" section. Kind of sh

Pryme
Pryme

I like the look too of the solid rear window. Looks clean. 

Posted Images

  • 2 weeks later...
LarryM Enthusiast

LarryM

Posted
Posted

I have a similar case but swear it has to be coming from the bolts that hold the spoiler on...this rattle started awhile back and noticed it was not inside, but rather from the outside. If you push on the spoiler on top, how much play does it have? compare it to the other side I'd say..

mihuntn Enthusiast

mihuntn

Posted
Posted (edited)

Mine is leaking from the other side. I also noticed the plastic trim piece on top of the window on the inside cracked in couple different spots. Dealership has a whole new back window on order for the crack and will properly seal it up. 2020 GMC 2500 AT4

56493913-4278-460B-A82A-1C105B87BEE6.jpeg

ED2249A1-6AD3-4F8D-A91B-DC2BF8615E5A.jpeg

Edited by mihuntn
  • 2 months later...
bowtie2007 Enthusiast

bowtie2007

Posted
Posted

After 2 straight days of rain the passed week, my back seats were wet and the windshield was fogged on the inside from the moisture in the cab. I'm calling the dealer monday.8643e1b57cf3eb27201060bad95dc5f9.jpgea74888f7c44a661e4955e76a08e341d.jpgf0285ad28f39fd40e40cdbca1a98c3c9.jpg

Sent from my SM-G981U using Tapatalk

Imcrazy Senior Enthusiast

Imcrazy

Posted
Posted

Sadly it seems the only long term sure fire fix is to have the slider replaced with a solid rear window. Seems Ram is having similar problems I’ve heard.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Colossus Senior Enthusiast

Colossus

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, Imcrazy said:

Sadly it seems the only long term sure fire fix is to have the slider replaced with a solid rear window. Seems Ram is having similar problems I’ve heard. 
 

Yes they are.  Sadly. 

sdelam Enthusiast

sdelam

Posted
Posted (edited)

My leak came from the spoiler bolts. Wasn't as bad as yours though. Mine was just a wet head liner that quickly dried. just happened to be driving in the rain with someone in the back seat that noticed it. They replaced/resealed the bolts and has been working so far. 

Edited by sdelam
Island Boy New Member

Island Boy

Posted
Posted

Well, I dropped mine back off at the dealership this morning.  The rear window was replaced back in October.  It has started to leak again in the top corners. 

Stand By Enthusiast

Stand By

Posted
Posted

Huge thread in the 19/20 silverado section. Including a recent mention of GMs avoidance doctrine. I have a sold rear window, not worried about that leaking. Keep my eyes open for the spoiler leak, though.

  • 2 weeks later...
bowtie2007 Enthusiast

bowtie2007

Posted
Posted

I just got mine back from the dealer but once i got home, i saw the headliner was damaged with a trim tool on both sides. The headliner is also loose and just resting on the window track. The headliner clips are broken. Taking it back to the dealer in the morning...aba31cce86751a55f45c922a20709c8a.jpg6c8ce7325acf9e5c813263592651b1a2.jpg

Sent from my SM-G981U using Tapatalk

ShotgunZ71 Senior Enthusiast

ShotgunZ71

Posted
Posted

My dealer tried a few times and it kept leaking. Since then, I've sealed it twice with good results. I'm certain over time the flexing of the truck and shrinking of the sealant may cause some intrusion. There are some who have use pieces of Trim-Lok at the top of the spoiler and also between the bottom of the spoiler and top of the window. I may try that myself in the future. It's obvious that GM is not concerned with repairing or redesigning these windows. They figure they just have to "try" for 36,000 miles and then it's not their problem...officially.

 

I have thought about going to an independent glass company and have it replaced with aftermarket, be it slider or fixed glass.

Tomato Enthusiast

Tomato

Posted
Posted
12 hours ago, bowtie2007 said:

I just got mine back from the dealer but once i got home, i saw the headliner was damaged with a trim tool on both sides. The headliner is also loose and just resting on the window track. The headliner clips are broken. Taking it back to the dealer in the morning...aba31cce86751a55f45c922a20709c8a.jpg6c8ce7325acf9e5c813263592651b1a2.jpg

Sent from my SM-G981U using Tapatalk
 

That sucks. It's amazing how things can get screwed up by "professional" mechanics.  Some just don't have any pride in their work.

  • Like 1
  • 2 months later...
tbully Enthusiast

tbully

Posted
Posted

Adding "mine" to the thread.

 

Built January '21 - ~150 miles on the clock.

 

Unbelievable they are shipping these knowing of this defect for this long.  Lawsuit territory.  I thought maybe I'd get lucky.  Nope.  😞

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • SwitchBladeSierra
      AUX switch install

      By SwitchBladeSierra · Posted

      Update for anyone following:    Installed everything as shown in diagram. Opted for 8 AWG from Battery Positive to a 50A resettable inline breaker. 8 AWG is tied into to 2x 12 AWG wires feeding a 6 way fuse bus in parallel (manufacturer’s design of what I purchased).    4 of the 6 fuses available for circuits are tied to terminal 30 of each relay. I tied a jumper from one of my spare circuits off the bus to terminal 86 of each relay. The trigger, terminal 85, was pulled from my interior by way of T-Taps from the X61A-X5 pins 10, 11, 17 and 23. This was the hardest part of the job. Even with the X61A unbolted and the X5 removed - there was VERY little wiggle room.  I added back up lights that I want to come on with my cargo lamp - but when I would check continuity between S48A-X1 pin 18 to its respective landing point on the X61A-X5 it triggers the factory relay… Instead I opted for a add-a-fuse on the passenger interior fuse panel (fuse location 10 - cargo lamp) and ran it through the boot on the driver side to my load. Did this to avoid introducing any electrical gremlins.   Note: Please check for continuity between the S48A-X1 and the X61A-X5. In my case wire colours were not the same as other’s who have posted. To do a continuity check you need a Multimeter. Completely disassemble the S48A-X1 and remove the brown face plate off the X61A-X5 by way of a flat head screwdriver - this was the only way I could get any results.   The outputs, terminal 87 of the relays, were fed into a junction box and landed at Individual studs and were labelled Aux 1-4.    At this point, all you need to do is run wire to your loads and bring them to ground. I created a negative bus in the engine bay, all my negatives land here.    For anyone having issues with all of your new aux switch lights coming on with the press of one - I noticed this only to be an issue when the battery wasn’t hooked up to my relays? No idea why, but it was quickly corrected by having my system buttoned up and functional.     
    • jgaudet99
      Tire psi

      By jgaudet99 · Posted

      Well I ordered the Autel ts508, and it won't work on my truck I tried all the 2023 and everything it just says vehicle not supported lol   I'm able to send this unit back, so I'm going to do that, then I'll just stop into a some tire shops and if none of them are able to do it, I guess ill have to spend a bunch of money to get a good scanner..... Thanks GM lol
    • B07
      Needing this part.

      By B07 · Posted

      Don't need the air tube but that's how everyone sells them. Most places won't remove that one piece and sell it alone. No money to be made. Hoping someone swapped theirs out for a CAI and no longer wants it. Not asking anyone to give it away. Offering to buy it but I don't need the tube. It's held on by a hex head screw and nut. Been all over eBay. 
    • Tyler Gibbs
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      Wait, you guys are changing your oil???
    • newdude
      Needing this part.

      By newdude · Posted

      If you need that mount looking piece.  You need the air tube.       Cheapest one I see on eBay - 2007-2014 GM Silverado 1500 Air Cleaner Outlet Duct Assembly 5.3L OEM 15901934 | eBay     Same price but free shipping - 2009-2014 CADILLAC ESCALADE 6.2L AIR CLEANER OUTLET DUCT ASSEMBLY 15901934 OEM | eBay

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...