Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Hi all, I'm new here and hoping y'all will be able to help give me some direction.  I have a '15 Yukon XL Denali with the 6 speed MYC transmission and almost 140k miles, my transmission has begun shuddering when I'm driving between 25-35 miles an hour, does not seem to do this at really any other speeds.  I spoke with a dealer who said their suggestion is just to go ahead and replace the transmission, this feels a little extreme at this point since Im not having hard shifts etc.  I've owned the vehicle for the last year and put about 27k miles on it in a year.  I have no records of any previous transmission maintenance and the fluid looked good when we purchased it.  I know that dropping the pan is a pain in the neck, but I'm thinking that I need to change the filter since I have no idea how old it is.  Husband is out of town and I'm wanting to get this dealt with ASAP.  I'm pretty capable of doing a flush or dropping the pan if I have a good write up to follow, so any advice would be much appreciated.  Also, what fluid have y'all had good luck with?  Thanks, Jenn

Edited by Jenn & Chris Carter
typo
Posted

I would start with scanning the vehicle first, see if any codes are there. Some Tranny codes do not light the check engine light. These are codes that will start with a P07.  Dropping the pan is  putting yourself on Occams razor, you might see something in there but the fresh fluid you put in will  probably give you more trouble down the road as it cleans  all the varnish of the internals. Normally i am one to change fluid but only at its interval, you do not have the history so you do not know when it was done. Good luck

  • Like 1
Posted
18 hours ago, George100 said:

I would start with scanning the vehicle first, see if any codes are there. Some Tranny codes do not light the check engine light. These are codes that will start with a P07.  Dropping the pan is  putting yourself on Occams razor, you might see something in there but the fresh fluid you put in will  probably give you more trouble down the road as it cleans  all the varnish of the internals. Normally i am one to change fluid but only at its interval, you do not have the history so you do not know when it was done. Good luck

thanks, I'll definitely look into reading codes first, I hadn't thought of that

Posted

https://www.lubegard.com/products/red/

 

Shudder is often a torque converter issue with the lock up clutch. Might not toss any codes. If a proper dose of Lubegard cures the issue then the clutch lining is getting pretty thin. When it gets thin enough it's metal on metal and metal through out the transmission. Thus your garage advising a rebuilt replacement. Catch it early enough at its a converter replacement and not the transmission. If you decide to go with a new converter then add the Lubegard from the start. It will slow the wear rate on a new converter clutch. 

  • Like 1
Posted
On 9/28/2020 at 11:49 AM, Jenn & Chris Carter said:

Hi all, I'm new here and hoping y'all will be able to help give me some direction.  I have a '15 Yukon XL Denali with the 6 speed MYC transmission and almost 140k miles, my transmission has begun shuddering when I'm driving between 25-35 miles an hour, does not seem to do this at really any other speeds.  I spoke with a dealer who said their suggestion is just to go ahead and replace the transmission, this feels a little extreme at this point since Im not having hard shifts etc.  I've owned the vehicle for the last year and put about 27k miles on it in a year.  I have no records of any previous transmission maintenance and the fluid looked good when we purchased it.  I know that dropping the pan is a pain in the neck, but I'm thinking that I need to change the filter since I have no idea how old it is.  Husband is out of town and I'm wanting to get this dealt with ASAP.  I'm pretty capable of doing a flush or dropping the pan if I have a good write up to follow, so any advice would be much appreciated.  Also, what fluid have y'all had good luck with?  Thanks, Jenn

The transmission fluid should have been changed at least twice by now and getting ready for a third time, the fluid is shot and cannot do its job anymore.  If no internal codes, do the fluid exchange, don't drop the pan yet.  These are very reliable transmissions and the first thing to go bad in them is usually the solenoids which can be rebuilt on your kitchen table to for about $100 plus fluids.  Your symptoms are indicative of a converter clutch issue though, get some fresh clean fluid in there.  Grumpy as always provides great advice too which ought to be heeded.

  • Like 2
  • 1 month later...
Posted

thank you all for the advice.  Thought I'd give an update.  We could never find service records of fluid or filter changes for the transmission so we went ahead with a fluid exchange and new filter.  Shuddering at 30mph was still present so we added the lube guard shudder fix.  We never found specs on how much to add, so we used one at a time and drove for about 100 miles then added another tube until the shuddering stopped after 3 tubes.  It's been smooth as silk since then.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Through the years it hasn't been my typical method as I tried to drop oil on an engine that was hot from having been worked, however that was not always practical and had to fire up a unit and let it warm up reasonably well and drop the oil when I had the time to do it but am referring to not only vehicles but a variety of farm equipment and highway tractors etc. However on a vehicle where one is crawling under it and the exhaust is nearby to ones body and if wanting to pull the plug without danger of being hit with boiling hot oil or attempting to remove a HOT oil filter, its sure safer and easier to not have everything smoking hot and can remove the filter right away when under the vehicle and let it all drain. Of course its not the end of the world if a bit of oil stays in the engine that might have eventually found its way out, I like to get out as much as possible but any oil changes that take place in shops would rarely be sitting around for very long at all before the plug is thrown back in and filter slapped on and oil poured in and sent out the door quick like. There would be very little time spent ( assuming they even did it ) in starting the engine with oil to fill the filter, then waiting to verify the level on the stick. A good reason to check ones oil level shortly after a shop changed the oil on a vehicle just to make sure its correct and to look under for any oil around the drain plug or filter. 
    • Cool to see another Vermonter!
    • I have changed oil and filter for years by starting a cold engine to warm oil up, let it run 5-10 minutes depending on temperature. Drain until it starts dripping, refill with quantity from owners manual or get it close.   
    • I changed the factory fill oil in the rear diff of my truck for the first time today and the miles is close to 9000 on the truck. There was a lot of fines on the magnet, a very thick layer but working it through my fingers it all felt like mush and as most know it appears like graphite, so no surprise chunks anyway. Certainly was time to do it from my thinking and could have been done sooner but the oil didn't look awful but sure wasn't new looking and never expected it to either. I did use some solvent to help me clean out the bottom area of the axle housing, just get any other stuff settled at the bottom washed and wiped out of the housing for the bit of effort it takes. I used Amsoil Severe Gear 75W90 in the easy packs to try out what they are like and I used up 4 packs and didn't spill much at all in the process but did take all four of the packs and go to the work bench and emptied them into a measuring container and there certainly was some in them that added up to something, then poured that into one of the easy packs and squirted in what I could get out of it. I would say the level is within 1/8th of an inch of being level with the threads at the fill plug so just the perfect amount. Once again, more than what GM says the fill volume is but computes with what others are adding to their rear diffs as well. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...