Jump to content

Bilstein 5100 vs. Leveling Kit

Xterrable

By Xterrable
in Modifications, Wheels & Tires

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Dunn
Dunn

if you want to go 2" it wont matter what kit gets you there (2" is 2").....you can buy eibach or bilstein kit and they will mimick the gm kit and they are cheaper and better quality.....the gm kit get

lapoolboy
lapoolboy

I just installed Bilstein 6112s up front with Icon tubular UCAs and Bilstein 5160s in the rear.  I already had the "Trailboss" 2" lift so I have the longer axles...the Bilsteins I bought were for TB/A

lapoolboy
lapoolboy

Yep, I've run across all kinds of ignoranance and misinformation on the lifts for regular trucks vs. TB/AT4.    It will ALL bolt up just fine....but like you said, it may not level it and yo

Posted Images

Gangly Senior Enthusiast

Gangly

Posted
Posted
6 hours ago, RWTJR said:

Please note: This lift is not intended for the AT4 (the OP's truck) or the Trail Boss.

 

 

No expertise implied or expressed.

The individual asking had an LT Z71, but thanks for clarifying, I should have specified it was for him only.

Dunn Senior Enthusiast

Dunn

Posted
Posted (edited)

i dont know why they say not for TB.....its same damn thing as whats on a stock TB, lol

 

it wouldnt level a TB but it would certainly work....

 

 

 

Edited by Dunn
lapoolboy Senior Enthusiast

lapoolboy

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, Dunn said:

i dont know why they say not for TB.....its same damn thing as whats on a stock TB, lol

 

it wouldnt level a TB but it would certainly work....

 

 

 

Yep, I've run across all kinds of ignoranance and misinformation on the lifts for regular trucks vs. TB/AT4. 

 

It will ALL bolt up just fine....but like you said, it may not level it and you have to be smart enough not to overlift in the case of adjustable struts/coilovers.

 

I put a set of 6112s for a Trailboss/AT4 on my LTZ and set them to the max 1.2" lift to get it close to level with the 2" blocks in the rear.  

 

Icon delta joint UCAs just came in today and they go on tomorrow for upper balljoint peace of mind.  

 

I *may* get some Icon coilovers in the future and I'll be ready.

  • Like 1
Dunn Senior Enthusiast

Dunn

Posted
Posted
38 minutes ago, lapoolboy said:

Yep, I've run across all kinds of ignoranance and misinformation on the lifts for regular trucks vs. TB/AT4. 

 

It will ALL bolt up just fine....but like you said, it may not level it and you have to be smart enough not to overlift in the case of adjustable struts/coilovers.

 

I put a set of 6112s for a Trailboss/AT4 on my LTZ and set them to the max 1.2" lift to get it close to level with the 2" blocks in the rear.  

 

Icon delta joint UCAs just came in today and they go on tomorrow for upper balljoint peace of mind.  

 

I *may* get some Icon coilovers in the future and I'll be ready.

if you buy an eibach spring probably would go bit higher.........eibach kit is 1.2 with oem spring but with their spring you get a bit over 2" i believe.....would have to imagine it would work with bilstein shock or at very least eibach makes a spring for bilstein shock......they are one of biggest spring companies and supply most aftermarket companies with their springs....

 

sure they could and will make lift springs for other shocks......

 

 

lapoolboy Senior Enthusiast

lapoolboy

Posted
Posted
15 minutes ago, Dunn said:

if you buy an eibach spring probably would go bit higher.........eibach kit is 1.2 with oem spring but with their spring you get a bit over 2" i believe.....would have to imagine it would work with bilstein shock or at very least eibach makes a spring for bilstein shock......they are one of biggest spring companies and supply most aftermarket companies with their springs....

 

sure they could and will make lift springs for other shocks......

 

 

These 6112 springs say "Bilstein" on them but they may be made for Bilstein by Eibach...who knows.  They are maxed at 1.2" and I'm only about 1/4" shy of level....I can live with that as it's not noticeable.

lapoolboy Senior Enthusiast

lapoolboy

Posted
Posted

Icon coilovers are 12+ weeks out everywhere I've checked.  I was going to wait to install my UCAs at the same time, but I'm moving ahead with installing the Delta Joint UCAs tomorrow paired with the Bilstein 6112s.  I won't get the advantage of additional droop, but the weak-ass balljoint will be gone!

Dunn Senior Enthusiast

Dunn

Posted
Posted

I would bet bilstein doesn't make springs and good chance they are eibach springs.....of course every company will have their name stamped...pro comp, fabtech, etc...but either way just an option....

 

Eibach is spring company first and foremost where others are shock companies

 

 

Dunn Senior Enthusiast

Dunn

Posted
Posted
33 minutes ago, lapoolboy said:

Icon coilovers are 12+ weeks out everywhere I've checked.  I was going to wait to install my UCAs at the same time, but I'm moving ahead with installing the Delta Joint UCAs tomorrow paired with the Bilstein 6112s.  I won't get the advantage of additional droop, but the weak-ass balljoint will be gone!

Smart move on UCA.....oems will work but for how long.....this way no worry and if the ballpoint is replaceable even better and greaseable better yet

 

Truck should ride alot better as well

Xterrable Enthusiast

Xterrable

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Are these UCA's "bigger"?  Meaning are they closer to the tire...  i want new UCAs bht i dont want to run spacers or have to get new wheels.

lapoolboy Senior Enthusiast

lapoolboy

Posted
Posted
8 hours ago, Xterrable said:

Are these UCA's "bigger"?  Meaning are they closer to the tire...  i want new UCAs bht i dont want to run spacers or have to get new wheels.

Yes, the balljoint or uniball cup area is typically larger than that same area on the stock arms.

RWTJR Enthusiast

RWTJR

Posted
Posted
20 hours ago, Dunn said:

i dont know why they say not for TB.....its same damn thing as whats on a stock TB, lol

 

it wouldnt level a TB but it would certainly work....

 

Exactly!

 

I think the reason they say it's not for the TB/AT4 is illustrated in every T1 lift thread. Because some see, 2" lift for the Silverado and they think if they put it on their TB/AT4 they'll get an additional 2" of lift. Whereas, it might just replace the 2" of lift they already have/had on their TB/AT4.  If it is the type of lift that would add lift to a TB/AT4, i.e., spacer lift, it would take it beyond  the engineered design specs of the stock suspension. The manufacturers of these lifts realize when these trucks are lifted to a level beyond the engineered specs the factory ball joints are placed in peril. Some acknowledge this and exclude the TB/AT4 from the application list, while others will add upper control arms to their kits.

 

I don't know why this is so misunderstood. The T1 1500 suspension was designed and engineered to work with both a stock 1500 and the factory 2" lifted TB/AT4.  So to help preserve ball joint life and insure safe & proper operation, a stock 1500 can be lifted up to 2", or a TB/AT4 up to 0", and remain within design/engineered parameters of the suspension. Anything beyond that is a gamble on the stock suspension.

 

Maybe the lift manufacturers often state they exclude the TB/AT4 to protect people from their own ignorance. I can imagine the calls they get, "I put your 2" adjustable shock lift on my TB/AT4 and it's the same height as it was before, you lied." or "I put your 2" spacer lift on my TB/AT4 and now the suspension continually slams on the stops, my tires rub and I can't get it properly aligned, you lied". I think they often exclude the TB/AT4 just to preclude these types of complaints/problems.

 

My recommendations: If someone wants to use a lift the manufacturer says excludes TB/AT4s on a TB/AT4 make sure it will actually add some lift and do so safely. If adding over 2" of lift to a stock 1500 or essentially any additional lift to a TB/AT4 add new properly sized upper control arms at a minimum.

 

Generally,  any T1 lift can be bolted up to any T1. The questions are, will it add lift, will it function properly and will it be safe?

 

My response it not directed to the quoted poster, Dunn, his post just inspired my post. Any use of the word "you' is the collective you, meaning anyone who reads this posting and is not directed at any individual(s).

 

Just my humble opinion and it's worth everything you're paying for it.

No expertise implied or expressed.

 

  • Thanks 1
Dunn Senior Enthusiast

Dunn

Posted
Posted

correct companies just covering their butts

 

once you know what TB is, makes it really simple to figure out, what your willing to live with is subjective.....

ero2 Enthusiast

ero2

Posted
Posted

I've been debating this as well, but am leaning towards the simple GM 2in leveling kit my dealership sells.  I, and I may be the only one ever, am happy so far with the ranch shocks that came on my 2020 Elevation/X31 package.

 

I have read so much back and forth on the UCAs, angles, etc.  The GM techs indicate that I don't need anything beyond the kit, the install, and the alignment.  The people who seem to have issues with the leveling kits go above 2in, or already have 2in, and go 2 more, correct?

 

If I want to be safe, am I best just leaving it alone if I don't want to spend the money of the 5100s plus install, etc.?

 

Thanks all!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Chuck FB
      Tire psi

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I just can't think of the exact term GM uses for that higher gvw package without looking at the website but basically sort of a trailering package and I imagine it may also have been created to skirt around the licensing fee differences between a3/4 and 1 ton that apply in some states although ironically I believe in some states its the reverse that a 1 ton is the cheaper truck to license over a 3/4 ton. It makes no difference here in Alberta but oddly enough a 1 ton through my insurance company is a bit cheaper to insure over a 3/4 ton as its based on the insurance statistics they generate.    For sure when ever you do have the chance to weigh your truck and to be fair, try to have the fuel tank full or nearly so rather than give yourself a false sense of the truck being lighter by having an almost empty tank.    In my other comment I was mentioning stock sized tires and partly in case someone was reading this and thinking they could lower their pressure down to what your aftermarket tires are able to do with your empty truck as that is a vastly different picture in the leeway you have to play with for running minimum pressures while remaining safe. I will say also that its easy to see from reactions of truck owners that may have been more used to owning a half ton in the past or a car and be it on a forum like this or in person etc that they get so wrapped up in that placard pressure sticker that they can't get their head wrapped around the fact that an HD truck due to how much it can carry can also vary the tire pressures drastically lower than those pressures ( typically more so for the rear axle on stock sized tires ) when empty vs some car that isn't made to carry much so the tire pressures can't be lowered since it needs almost that much pressure just to carry the empty car.    If I ever do find myself in the states with this truck, I will only be too happy to switch it over to the US measuring system as then I will understand all the dash readings. The only thing that is off for me slightly with US measurements is US miles per gallon as I grew up with the Imperial gallon and to this day up here anyway speak in Imperial miles per gallon ( I don't do that on this forum though as that would confuse everyone for no good reason ). 
    • jgaudet99
      Tire psi

      By jgaudet99 · Posted

      Yes that's right, it's the upgrade that includes the overload spring and all that stuff.   Someday when I'm empty and going by a scale I'm going to stop in and get some weight readings.   Exactly  you should have the ability to change individual settings, in in Canada so I'm driving with kph but then I'm stuck with kpa when I want psi lol    
    • Chuck FB
      Tire psi

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      You must have that upgraded gvw package which is only available or at least was in 2025 with the diesel engine for the 3/4 ton and that gave the truck physically the larger 12.0 ring gear rear diff and the 3500 rear spring pack. There is a difference in what the diff housing looks like externally as one tell tale and also your truck should have the upper overload spring pack and the frame pads that the pack goes up against.    The pressure the tpms system kicks the alarm in on a stock setting truck, that is a good question and was just from what I recall but I doubt I made any notes on it as I knew for the rear that it was not at all what I was after regardless either. Being that you have a diesel and if running on stock tires the minimum pressure on an empty truck seems to be around 50 psi from hearing of those that have weighted the front axle but the rear axle is very similar in weight to a gas truck and again a near empty truck on the rear could go down to 35 pounds at minimum. However the weigh scale is the proper way to know for sure as a guide.    As to changing the readings on the dash from metric to the US measuring system, oh yes that is done easily but what I was attempting to explain was that I can't pick and choose items I want to have in US and those I still want in the metric system at the same time as its either all or none. For example lets say you drove into Canada and switched your dash over to metric so your speedometer read in km an hour, well then your reading kilopascals on your tpms readout and your wife looks over and says what the hell is that saying in the tpms screen and you say "darned if I know, I think its Chinese" !
    • Chuck FB
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      This is partly why I decided to have switched over to Amsoil SS as a way of hopefully preventing the buildup of the sludge/carbon on the pistons and clogging of the oil control rings and the carbon that would cause the compression rings to stick in their grooves as well as stay cleaner up top of the heads in the valve train in the first place, an oil that has tested better by third party testing over typical shelf oil and also doing my best to run relatively short OCI. However in saying that I don't think there is any way to easily prove the oil I was using prior allowed for a buildup at the OCI I was doing, nor in the other direction to make claims the Amsoil is keeping everything clean either. There really isn't a window into the engine is there to know anything for certain even if oil samples were taken for example that showed still healthy oil being dropped out of the oil pan other than engine tear downs that extensive and expensive testing of oils does to actually visually see what is really going on inside the engine. I wish there was some easy method of seeing what is going on but I don't happen to be aware of that if there is.  
    • jgaudet99
      Tire psi

      By jgaudet99 · Posted

      My truck is a ¾ ton but my placard also says 80 for the rear tires, I think I might have the upgraded suspension to the 3500 series maybe.   I put my air down to 60 and the light was still on, and there was no way I was putting over 60 psi in the rear empty and not towing because I knew the actual number Toyo gave me and I didn't wanna ruin the center of my tires!   And you actually can change it in the settings from metric or is and it will show kph or mph then when you go into your tire settings it will be either psi or kpa, but it would be nice to just change it directly on the tire psi page 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...