Jump to content

Trailer Cameras Not Working

Bazel

By Bazel
in Troubleshooting, Warranty & Recalls

 Share

Recommended Posts

skatville Enthusiast

skatville

Posted
Posted

Here it is- April 19, 2021.  I spent the whole day at the GMC dealership.  GPS doesn't work or is intermittent.  Rear trailer camera doesn't work or is intermittent.  I have had this problem for some time since it was new- July 2020.  The technician said there was an GPS error code and replaced the GPS antenna.  It worked great when I left the shop- but failed before I got home.   I called the service rep- He said push ON-STAR.  I did a welcome call- bingo- GPS started working.  Sample of 1 time.  We'll see how well this works.

 

At the same time I noticed the trailer brake lights after locking the truck with the FOB.  This is the theft deterrent mode.  The lights were flickering... I unlocked the truck and re-locked with the door lock.  The lights behaved normally with a single flash every 30 seconds or so.

 

The techician said there was an error code for the rear camera.  They will order another one. I'm not optimistic at all.  The whole Infotainment system is very complex with complex firmware.  Seems like there is not sufficant diagnostic error catching codes to trouble shoot problems.

My quess is tomorrow I will check out the camera and it will work.  If it does, I still lose the calibration.  That means I will need to remove the rear trailer tire to re-calibrate.  YES- It doesn't calibrate with the rear tire mounted.

These problems need to be elevated to higher hardware, software and firmware engineers. How can they fix these things if they are not in the middle of the trouble shooting battle ????

  • 2 months later...
Ron Scott Enthusiast

Ron Scott

Posted
Posted

I hear the camera can be used as a simple rear camera without using the transparent trailer feature.  I have a 5th wheel so it won't work anyway.  Has anyone done this and how do you program it or does it even need programing?

MTU Alum Enthusiast

MTU Alum

Posted
Posted

You can use it on any trailer as just a backup camera.  Just plug and play if your truck has one of the systems that accepts trailer cameras.

 

#iworkforGM 

  • 3 weeks later...
dobroplayer New Member

dobroplayer

Posted
Posted

So i have been all over the internet trying to find some guidance. 2020 Silverado with trailer camera package (no the invisible trailer). FIRST camera worked intermittently. Sometimes it shows connected, sometimes connected by no option for the camera in the camera screen, sometimes it worked. It finally failed completely.

 

Second camera, same thing, except I have never been able to get video. It shows connected, but that's it. My dealership is clueless about this option. I am very frustrated that I bought an option that should be plug and play and am getting no assistance. I too have tried every combination of plugin procedures, asleep, hot, everything. It is a very nice function when it works, but it is very sketchy. My dealership wants me to bring the RV in so they can install it ($$). I don't want them anywhere near my RV after their displayed knowledge of the situation. I'm at the end of my rope!!!

Ron Scott Enthusiast

Ron Scott

Posted
Posted
9 hours ago, dobroplayer said:

So i have been all over the internet trying to find some guidance. 2020 Silverado with trailer camera package (no the invisible trailer). FIRST camera worked intermittently. Sometimes it shows connected, sometimes connected by no option for the camera in the camera screen, sometimes it worked. It finally failed completely.

 

Second camera, same thing, except I have never been able to get video. It shows connected, but that's it. My dealership is clueless about this option. I am very frustrated that I bought an option that should be plug and play and am getting no assistance. I too have tried every combination of plugin procedures, asleep, hot, everything. It is a very nice function when it works, but it is very sketchy. My dealership wants me to bring the RV in so they can install it ($$). I don't want them anywhere near my RV after their displayed knowledge of the situation. I'm at the end of my rope!!!

Have you tried plugging your trailer into the in-bed connector?  If you have an in bed connector.  I got mine installed last week on my 36' 5th wheel and it's working great.  It seems to know if you use the in-bed connector that there is no invisible trailer as it won't even let me go into the setup for it.

skatville Enthusiast

skatville

Posted
Posted

I have a 2020 GMC 2500HD Denali with the Trailering feature.  I had my GMC dealer install the rear trailer camera on a new 2021 travel trailer.  They did a great job.  It worked intermittently for months and would lose calibration.  I had to take it back to the dealer many times to have the technician troubleshoot to problem.  Finally, they replaced the camera.  BINGO.  All has worked perfectly for months now.  I'm thankful I had the dealer install and backup the warranty.  There may be a reliability/yield issue with camera.

 

The only problem with the GMC now is the GPS.  It has always been intermittent since new.  The California Lemon law is being persued.

  • 2 weeks later...
dobroplayer New Member

dobroplayer

Posted
Posted
On 8/2/2021 at 5:37 PM, Ron Scott said:

Have you tried plugging your trailer into the in-bed connector?  If you have an in bed connector.  I got mine installed last week on my 36' 5th wheel and it's working great.  It seems to know if you use the in-bed connector that there is no invisible trailer as it won't even let me go into the setup for it.

I'm not even sure I have in-bed connectors. I don't have a camera right now as I sent the new one back, and am trying to get some resolution as to exactly what's going on. I.e., is it the camera or the truck. I might try another camera at some point, but right now all I have is frustration...:banghead:

  • 8 months later...
Charlie Blackwood New Member

Charlie Blackwood

Posted
Posted (edited)

I bought my 2020 GMC Sierra AT4 brand new. With a complete camera system, camera never worked. GMC did nothing to help. Trying to find another wiring harness and connector so I can rewire the camera to see if I had a faulty wire but I can't find the parts. Hopefully an aftermarket part if they're available.

Edited by Charlie Blackwood
edit

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Jsdirt
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      If everything checks out at the MAF, then the MAF is BAD, new or not.   You don't need a signal generator to troubleshoot this. PCM needs ALL powers and ALL grounds able to light a halogen headlight bulb - if it can light the bulb bright, then the wiring is good enough to run the PCM.   Best thing you can do for yourself is spend some time here: scannerdanner.com - Check out all his YouTube videos on similar issues. If you decide to subscribe it's the best bang-for-buck ratio in the automotive world, hands-down. He's got TONS of free vids on YouTube, too.
    • Tyler Gibbs
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      You got that Hengst D110??
    • contrabombarde
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By contrabombarde · Posted

      Yes, I used my multimeter to probe all of the wires at the MAF, both with the sensor connected, sensor disconnected, key on engine off, key on engine running, etc etc etc. I probed all of the wires again at the PCM, at the connectors, etc. All voltages are what they should be according to the service manual/wiring diagrams. All grounds are good, less than 20 millivolts from the battery negative under load. Both at the connector of the MAF, at the PCM connector etc.      I know this throws a pretty big wrench into things, but this truck was acting up before the swap. I don't have very much information, if any on what was causing it, but if you cleared all of the dtcs it would do the same thing where it would crank, fire, then die. And it would do the same thing a dozen or so times, and eventually it would start and run, but the difference is that it would run and actually be drivable. Whereas now if you can drive it at all, it goes into reduced power mode almost immediately, and even then it's not running correctly. When you come to a stop at a light it stumbles down to for 500 RPM before catching itself and returning to the smooth idle. And if you go more than about 50% throttle then it immediately goes back to doing the misfire thing.    Like I said, I know that throws a wrench into things, and unfortunately I was not able to pull any data or anything like that before I did this work, so I don't have much to go on.    I'm trying to not fixate on one particular thing as the cause of the problem, but it seems like all avenues are pointing me towards the PCM. Like I said I have tested the wiring extensively (see above), and during cranking the sensor does produce seemingly legitimate values at least according to my multimeter, but as soon as the engine fires those values quickly descend into gibberish. I've tried it with multiple different known working sensors, I have done literally every test I can think of multiple times on the wiring (probing the signals, probing the pins with the sensors unplugged, probing the pins at the PCM, voltage drop, voltage drop under load, continuity, ohms, and double-checking everything against the wiring diagrams/ proper values in the service data.)    Another thing that pushes me towards a possible PCM failure is, I have noticed in troubleshooting a little bit taking a break and coming back, that when I leave the truck to sit for a while and cool off, it starts and runs smoothly when I first start it up. However once it warms up. It starts having problems. For example, when I went out to the truck this morning after it had been sitting overnight, I was actually able to drive it down the block. And then once I got on the throttle a Little bit after going about a thousand ft, it started misfiring again. I pulled it back into the driveway, shut it down, and started it back up. It idled smoothly. As soon as I touched the throttle it did the misfire thing again. From then on as soon as I started it it would misfire. I shut the truck off and went to go get a coffee and do a bit more research. When I came back out I started the truck up and it immediately went into the smooth idle. After a couple of minutes of playing around with it, it would not idle smoothly anymore. Let it sit a couple of hours, rinse and repeat. This makes me think with temperature change something is going wrong inside the PCM. I have the PCM out of the 2007 donor vehicle and I'm thinking of getting a one-day subscription to the ACDelco programming service to try and program that and see if it helps.   Like I said, I'm really trying to not fixate myself on one potential cause, but it seems everything is pointing me towards PCM failure. I would really like to try to confirm that, but unfortunately I don't have an oscilloscope or a signal generator to do the GM service procedure where you feed 5 khz into the signal pin. 
    • Jsdirt
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      Ahh, sorry about that - I got some bad info. Newdude is correct. That's what I get for working 13 hours straight ... on my "vacation", lol.   Should've checked the files I had instead of the internet.   Anyway ... this is GREAT news, since this would've been an absolute friggin nightmare to get working.   I don't think the lack of VVT is causing this - you've got another issue. Wiring, I'm betting.   I'm telling you right now, your computer isn't bad. If it worked before the swap, it's working now. You need to do some more (better) diagnostics and figure out exactly what you're missing. Did you test every wire directly at the MAF? Have 5V reference? Ground? If you're reading ZERO g/s, your Hz isn't much use - it's going to be the wrong value anyway. The MAF is not working, and you need to find out WHY.   I got this off the net, so VERIFY first: Pin A: Black (BLK) wire, Circuit 552, serves as the Sensor Return (Ground).  Pin B: Tan (TAN) wire, Circuit 472, carries the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) signal.  Pin C: Yellow (YEL) wire, Circuit 492, is the primary MAF Sensor Signal output to the PCM. Pin D: Pink (PNK) wire, Circuit 339 or 539, provides Ignition 1 Voltage (Power).  Pin E: Tan/Black wire, Circuit 552 or similar, often associated with the Intake Air Temperature ground or signal return.  Global-A list: https://postimg.cc/KKJnQC85    
    • parthery
      GM Hard Folding Tonneau by REV review

      By parthery · Posted

      Correct....the end user can't reach to Realtruck directly like they can if they purchase a Bak, Undercover, etc...  It has to go through a dealer.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...