Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)
On 8/24/2021 at 3:58 PM, Joe Brooks said:

Has anyone has the “shim” installed on the cam shaft position sensor long enough to know if that fixed the issue?  

I just had mine shimmed. Had a no start 2 days later and now the thing also reeks like coolant. Today they tried the ECM re-flash. Will have to wait and see if that does anything.

Edited by Jessie D
Posted
On 10/5/2021 at 12:57 AM, Hello32 said:

I picked up my truck. Got their once service closed so didn’t get a chance to speak to the advisor. Receipt says reprogram ecm that was released on 10/04/21 and perform setup. One thing i noticed right away was the truck cranks for longer now. It makes you feel like your going to have an extended crank but starts up.

Yes I noticed that too. It seems to go for an extra second or so now.

Posted

Truck now has 5200 miles with 4 crank/no start episodes. Going next Friday for oil change and the ECM flash. Will update afterwards. 

Posted

My dealer thought it was one of the relays so they replaced it. Unsurprisingly, I had a no start recently.  

Posted

I just got the ECM update today. Any potential issues with premature wear with the longer crank time?

Posted

Wow, this thread blew up since I looked here last.  Dropped off my 21' Sierra AT4 3.0 Duramax for its third trip to the dealer for the Crank / No Start.  I've already had the ECM reprogrammed and the issue has even happened to the Service Tech during the second visit while they had equipment hooked up to it, they saw some sort of steering column / ignition code.  They reprogrammed the ECM again.  Still happening.  I've given them plenty to look into from what I've learned on this thread so thanks for all the info. 

 

One thing my Service Rep pointed out today is that in order for them to continue with any work I'm responsible for the $185 in labor costs for them to remove the aftermarket theft deterrent system (wiring / connectors) that was installed at the original dealership that I had purchased the truck from.  Long story for a different thread...  🙃

 

I'll report back with details once I have them. 

Posted (edited)

'I just got the ECM update today. Any potential issues with premature wear with the longer crank time?"

 

My brain actually hurts this question is so stupid

Edited by youcantkeepup!
Posted
1 hour ago, youcantkeepup! said:

 

My brain actually hurts this question is so stupid

I almost took your troll bait but then me and everyone else on here would have to listen to you spout off your bs resume and self fluffing. Keep this topic informative. 

Posted

Sorry but.......

Here's informative for you. The more something is used, the faster it wears out.  

Posted

LOL “youcantkeepup!” doesn’t need to fluff himself, you do it for him. Maybe someone who isn’t the second do-it-himselfer can chime in with meaningful information. 

Posted
22 minutes ago, WontStart said:

LOL “youcantkeepup!” doesn’t need to fluff himself, you do it for him. Maybe someone who isn’t the second do-it-himselfer can chime in with meaningful information. 

One bit of misinformation that my saleman had been told by the service department, is that the auto restart system does not cause wear on the engine starter.   I think this bit of 'folklore' comes from the fact that hybrid cars use the big electic motor to restart the gas engine.   If you notice when riding or driving a hybrid the starting of the gas engine is almost undetectable since it is so smooth a transition.   Our truck use an old fashion starter to start.   It and the flywheel gear, bendix and starter gear teeth all wear incrementally with each start.

  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,915
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ChristopherDobson
    Newest Member
    ChristopherDobson
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,243 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
    • yes, leaking exhaust will mess up o2 sensor readings, which in turn messes up fuel trims.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...