Jump to content

Quick Octane/Station Question

vancealot29
 Share

Recommended Posts

vancealot29 Enthusiast

vancealot29

Posted
Posted

Hey All,

 

Just traded in my 5.3 for a 6.2.  I've always used Race Trac/Wawa (87 octane in the 5.3), as they are closest to the house/work.  Question is, for the 6.2, would you go with 93 octane at Race Trac/Wawa for $3.55 (current price) or 91 octane at Costco for $3.05 (current price).  Just curious if the extra $10-$12 per tank is necessary for 93 over 91.  I have a Costco closeish to the house and another on the way home from work.  Not completely ideal, but also not out of the way.  I have no problem spending the extra ~$500 over the course of the year if needed to keep the engine in optimal running condition.  Also, I don't want to get in an octane pissing match, just looking for feedback.

 

Thanks,

mwipp66 Enthusiast

mwipp66

Posted
Posted

If you read the user manual, it recommends 93 octane for peak performance and states 87 octane is fine. I had a 2019 6.2l and only ran 87 octane with no issues (recently upgraded to a 2500). Car and drive had an article back in 2016 I believe where they did dyno runs on a escalade with a 6.2l with both 87 and 93. With 87 it lost ~20hp is what they found. So if you are okay with a little power loss, you should be fine.

 

So basically both 87 and 93 are safe, but your engine is changing timings while running 87 resulting in power loss

btj_z71 Enthusiast

btj_z71

Posted
Posted
4 hours ago, vancealot29 said:

Hey All,

 

Just traded in my 5.3 for a 6.2.  I've always used Race Trac/Wawa (87 octane in the 5.3), as they are closest to the house/work.  Question is, for the 6.2, would you go with 93 octane at Race Trac/Wawa for $3.55 (current price) or 91 octane at Costco for $3.05 (current price).  Just curious if the extra $10-$12 per tank is necessary for 93 over 91.  I have a Costco closeish to the house and another on the way home from work.  Not completely ideal, but also not out of the way.  I have no problem spending the extra ~$500 over the course of the year if needed to keep the engine in optimal running condition.  Also, I don't want to get in an octane pissing match, just looking for feedback.

 

Thanks,

I would add here that you should use Top Tier gas.  I didn't check to see if the stations you mentioned are top tier certified, but that gas has more detergents to keep your engine running better and longer.  

 

On the topic of octane, if you experience knocking then you can try running 89 vs 87.  Or, whatever the mid-grade fuel type is in your location.  Another option is using 87 then adding fuel additives to bring up the octane and/or detergents.

  • Like 1
Black02Silverado Senior Enthusiast

Black02Silverado

Posted
Posted

I purchased the 6.2 for the performance so I run 93.  If you can afford it and it isn't an issue then go that route.  If money is tight then go the WaWa route. In the end you need to be happy.

  • Like 2
CamGTP Senior Enthusiast

CamGTP

Posted
Posted

If the costco stuff is that much cheaper, just run that. Some people are so picky about 93 octane and top tier bologna. I have never once went to a gas station and wondered if they used top tier fuels and never had a problem with how my vehicles run.

 

If you can feel a difference that isn't just in your head between 91 and 93 octane you must be super duper special.

  • Like 1
Adamace1 Enthusiast

Adamace1

Posted
Posted (edited)

Costco is top tier. If GM recommends 93 and says 87 in fine. I think for the price the Costco 91 should be good. 

 

I wouldn't have got the 6.2. I don't have/ want to spend the extra money on the motor and fuel. But if I did buy the 6.2 I would run 93 to get the full potential of the motor.

Edited by Adamace1
  • Like 1
CamGTP Senior Enthusiast

CamGTP

Posted
Posted

I get that people want the full potential but when 99% of your driving is at steady speed, idling, in traffic and not 100% throttle, can your really feel that 5-10hp difference??

 

I'll end my rant now. I've tuned plenty of cars/trucks to know that it doesn't make a big enough difference unless in some extreme conditions.

  • Like 1
MG386 Enthusiast

MG386

Posted
Posted

What elevation are you driving?  You will find that lower elevations closer to sea level will offer 93.  I'm in the PHX area 1300+ average and there is no 93, only 91.  Basically the thicker the air (lower elevations), the higher octane you need to make highest power.  Close to sea level, 93 will give highest power for the 6.2, if you run 1k feet elevation and higher, 91 is fine.  If you are up in the mountains 5k+, you are probably fine with 89 to 87.

AlaskaErik Enthusiast

AlaskaErik

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, MG386 said:

What elevation are you driving?  You will find that lower elevations closer to sea level will offer 93.  I'm in the PHX area 1300+ average and there is no 93, only 91.  Basically the thicker the air (lower elevations), the higher octane you need to make highest power.  Close to sea level, 93 will give highest power for the 6.2, if you run 1k feet elevation and higher, 91 is fine.  If you are up in the mountains 5k+, you are probably fine with 89 to 87.

I'm at sea level and all premium at every station is 90 octane.  No such thing as 91 octane or higher anywhere in the state.  Regular is 87 and midgrade is 88.5.

vancealot29 Enthusiast

vancealot29

Posted
  • Author
Posted
1 hour ago, MG386 said:

What elevation are you driving? 

FL peninsula for 95%+ of my driving. Never more than 150 ft. above sea level, probably usually closer to 50 ft.

 

I agree with most that 91 will suffice, but I will probably still stick with the 93 for piece of mind.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • ManyCamaroz
      2024 SILVERADO 3500HD DURAMAX CLOGGED DPF AND WONT CONNECT TO TRAILERS

      By ManyCamaroz · Posted

      I had an issue with a new 1985 Z-28 some years ago. The 4WDB's were less than adequate when purchased IMO.  I had taken it in for small warranty services and asked them on three occasions to check them. Each time is was "could not duplicate on the service ticket. The warranty ran out about a month after my last visit and had to take it back for warranty rework. I again complained about the brakes. Well, low and behold, this time they determined the rear calipers were sticking and gave me a quote to repair. They had records as well as O had receipts of each time complained about the brakes while still under warranty. My dad was a life long body shop owner and told me to keep my cool and tell them that I wanted to speak to the GM Regional District Manager. The service manager disappeared for a few minutes, came back and told me they would replace the calipers free of charge. 
    • Anita's2015
      Travel Trailer 2024 2500 HD 6.6 Gas Engine ?

      By Anita's2015 · Posted

      Towing a 2022 Lance 24 ft travel trailer with our 2021 GMC Sierra 2500HD, gas.  Loaded, trailer is about 6,000 lb.  We get up to 10 mpg at 55 mpg, such as I-5.  Pleased with the combination.
    • Chuck FB
      Correct way to service 2024 l8t allison trans?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I decided to give it a shot and see what sort of a gong show it would be to a pan drop themed oil change on my 2025 gas truck with the 10 speed. All indications I had seen so far was that there was no way that pan was coming out of there due to the cross over exhaust pipe not allowing enough clearance for the back end of the pan to duck out from under the valve body since it hangs lower than the pan to trans mount flange and certainly the filter does. I never touched any of the exhaust mount hardware at all, be that the engine manifolds to Y pipe, the bracket on the side of the transmission, or the two bolt flange further back behind the trans/transfer case. I put the truck up on four jack stands as there was no way I was going to struggle with that lack of clearance under the truck. The truck was cold as it had sat over night so all the trans fluid had drained to the pan, so I drained the bit of oil that would come out of the level check plug at the bottom near the front of the pan and put the plug back in to reduce the ensuing mess after that. Then took out all but one bolt front and rear and then pushed up on the pan and took out the remaining two bolts and then let the front of the pan tilt and spill out most of its contents into a drain pan. I then popped the pan gasket off its two locating nubs and kicked it a bit to the left side so it was no longer on the flange of the pan to get all the clearance I could and managed to get the pan slipped out of there by swinging the front of the pan to the right but keeping the rear part of the pan inline if not slightly to the left of its mounting flange area and lifting the front of the pan enough to keep the rear part of the pan low enough that allowed the pan to "JUST" slip out without forcing anything. I installed a new trans filter and seal and as per GM instructions on this site I torqued the two bolts to that 44 inch pound goal ( they take an 8 mm socket ) In reversing the pan procedure after I had cleaned up the pan both inside and out completely ( touching the outside of a dirty pan and dealing with installing a gasket at the same time would be a disaster ). First I slipped the pan into place and yes it took me a while as it won't go unless its slid in just at the right angles, then once the back of the pan was into the area of the flange mount, I went and got the gasket and then threaded that through the front of the pan and feeding it under the filter etc and finally working it onto the flange of the pan and lining up the two locating nubs to drop into the pan. Then lifted the pan up into place and get a couple of bolts started and check and make sure the gasket is where its supposed to be as the bolts were being put in. I never used any power tools as I don't have any of the whimsy little drive guns, I use what looks like a small screw driver handle with shank that has a 1/4 drive on the end of it and added an extension and those bolts use a 10 mm socket as some times power tools can bite a person if used on delicate parts ( torqued to 80 inch pounds ). Also should note as per rules around pulling the add plug out first, yes I cracked that loose with a 8 mm Allen bit socket on a 3/8 slim head ratchet as there isn't a lot of room to work with there either due to the exhaust on the right side of the trans.    I already had delco ULV oil on hand and of course the quart bottle pump wasn't made for those small cap threads so I had to use some other containers that the pump would fit and keep transferring oil over into them so a wasted exercise there but indeed the small pump did work just fine as ULV oil is thin and easy to pump in summer time weather. I put in 9.5 quarts as per prior minimum recommendation and yes that cut it pretty close as once I had the truck ( off the jack stands so its level ) and the trans oil up to 167f , about 6 ounces came out but a level kit or what have you could throw it off just enough that it wouldn't be enough oil so probably that 10 quarts is a good amount to put in so one doesn't have to add more oil as when its hot I sure wouldn't want to be adding oil so would have to let the exhaust cool. All I do for warming up the transmission is sit there with it in park and rev it to about 2500 rpm and it takes close to 20 minutes to get it up to that lower limit of 167f, weird how it will warm up more doing that then by driving it, I am not real keen on power braking the truck to get the temp up there and don't seem to have to either. By the way I only have 9000 miles on the truck so probably not a very good payback on doing it that soon and the magnets had such a minor thin layer of fines on them so that was good to see and the color of the oil was a darker red then new oil but still looked very good as it should and I've not done any towing with it so its been living a pretty easy life so far. The filter is made in such a way that its next to impossible to pull out the filter media but there certainly was some fines showing up there which makes sense give the trans having to break in.    I hadn't really planned on explaining this much of what I had done since there are various instruction videos kicking around or I think so, as the gist of my message as that by fluke or what have you, for some reason my truck has just enough clearance to slip the pan out from the trans. Of course there is no guarantee that other trucks like this in general will also allow the pan to be taken out without messing with the exhaust as I expect its probably a crap shoot if it will or won't, I was just happy to find out that mine would work and avoid all the other struggling and possibly damaging things in the process,     
    • BCGM
      Fog Lamps 2024 2500 HD

      By BCGM · Posted

      Do you fellas think Fog Lamps would  be a good upgrade for our 2024 2500 HD Custom ? As you probably know it did not come with them ,  Would you put in GM Chevy parts ? Do they get wired up to the switch panel ( Upfitter or whatever the correct terminology is ) on the dash ? Thanks
    • davester
      Looking at ordering a '26 WT because I want a std cab, std bed

      By davester · Posted

      It would depend on what you do to lower it.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...