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Im sorry, but it is kind of funny GM 21-NA-199


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To answer the question about the block heater, whether it was serious or not. The factory block heater doesn't work unless it's below 0 degrees Fahrenheit so that is kinda out of the mix for the majority of the time.

 

Only the engine coolant would be warmed and the transmission fluid might warm up slightly quicker if you just jumped in drove off. I started my truck this morning as well and it like 15 degrees, let it run for 10 minutes and the transmission temp was 66 degrees. Drove my 4 miles to work and it got to 90-95 degrees with no thermostat. It acts just like my 2012 did without it.

 

I didn't read much of the other stuff in this thread lol

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13 hours ago, 14burrito said:

So I'm led even more so believe that the 180 marked on the OE stat is start to open when stats have historically been about 15 or so start to full (194 -15 = 179).

 

The stamped 70 reverses this role obviously as 70c = 158f.

 

You can disassemble the new housing and reporting what's stamped on the stat, disassembly is extremely easy.

 

Iv been a believer that the thermostat is labeled start to open temps.

Yes, I'll report numbers when it arrives.

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8 hours ago, CamGTP said:

I started my truck this morning as well and it like 15 degrees, let it run for 10 minutes and the transmission temp was 66 degrees. Drove my 4 miles to work and it got to 90-95 degrees with no thermostat. It acts just like my 2012 did without it.

 

I didn't read much of the other stuff in this thread lol

 

You didn't miss much :P

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9 hours ago, CamGTP said:

To answer the question about the block heater, whether it was serious or not. The factory block heater doesn't work unless it's below 0 degrees Fahrenheit so that is kinda out of the mix for the majority of the time.

 

Only the engine coolant would be warmed and the transmission fluid might warm up slightly quicker if you just jumped in drove off. I started my truck this morning as well and it like 15 degrees, let it run for 10 minutes and the transmission temp was 66 degrees. Drove my 4 miles to work and it got to 90-95 degrees with no thermostat. It acts just like my 2012 did without it.

 

I didn't read much of the other stuff in this thread lol

Evidently the transmission thermostat can be added to the cylinder deactivation. Both gets  GMs  mileage per gallon up under control testing. Does little for the consumer except add potential cost. When those (fuel saving) devices fail. Recently it was made evident when GM because of the chip shortage eliminated cylinder deactivation on some models. And claimed a drop of 1 mpg without it. What’s amusing to me the some of the same people who say flip the pill. Are the same that say cylinder deactivation is amazing. After much reading I say both bad. But of course it’s the owners right to choose.

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15 minutes ago, KARNUT said:

What’s amusing to me the same people who say flip the pill. Are the same that say cylinder deactivation is amazing. 

Who says that? Not me.

AFM is not needed.

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1 hour ago, KARNUT said:

Evidently the transmission thermostat can be added to the cylinder deactivation. Both gets  GMs  mileage per gallon up under control testing. Does little for the consumer except add potential cost. When those (fuel saving) devices fail. Recently it was made evident when GM because of the chip shortage eliminated cylinder deactivation on some models. And claimed a drop of 1 mpg without it. What’s amusing to me the some of the same people who say flip the pill. Are the same that say cylinder deactivation is amazing. After much reading I say both bad. But of course it’s the owners right to choose.

Those motors are built the same however, they still have the DFM lifters, just no electronics to control them.

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3 hours ago, BlaineBug said:

Would anyone happen to have the official GM torque specs for 1) The bolt that holds the thermostat housing/bypass valve to the transmission case and 2) the bolt that holds the cooler lines to the thermostat housing/bypass valve?

Pretty sure it's 3 ugga duggas. At least that's how I did my new thermostat and has been just fine...

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In the event that anyone was sitting on the edge of their seat in anticipation for the torque specs, you may now rest.

 

The bolt that holds the thermostat housing to the transmission case = 16 FOOT POUNDS (192 INCH POUNDS)

The bolt that holds the cooler lines to the thermostat housing = 106 INCH POUNDS (8.8 FOOT POUNDS)

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On 11/10/2021 at 11:07 PM, ftwhite said:

This is the kind of data that to me reinforces that the "make sure to only use the factory parts and factory spec'ed fluid, because the engineers always get it right" is a very blind sentiment.

 

It's always a mixed bag, right? I recently replaced the thermostat in he wife's Terrain with a GM $34 item and it is just as big a piece of junk as the one I took out. 10* swing that never stops and is regulating, if you can call it that much closer to that of a 190 F unit. 

 

Stant Superstat 46628 cost me $12 and throttles temperatures to a degree or two. Almost 1/3 the cost. The buying public has put the Stant brand on the chopping block in favor of units like Balkamp which is also a piece of junk but cheaper yet. This is a case where OEM is just awful and  much better is available in the aftermarket. People are going to put the best unit made out of the market. :idiot:

 

Wiper blades however, IMHO, OEM rules if for nothing more than factory fit. No adaptors. Taken care of, and in my personal experience, will last 3 to 6 times longer than anything else I've ever used. They actually pay for themselves. I get routinely 3 years or 75K miles out of each set. 

 

So...yes...mixed bag. 

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I didn't have any prior numbers to document prior.  2 other issues, I'm hardly ever on the highway, and I believe our upcoming winter will be COLDER than most within the last decade.  The squirrels going franic in October with their nut stashing may serve as indication of what cold lies ahead.

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