Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Are idle hours included in engine total hours?

I have total of 867.6 and Idle 123.2, does this make it 990.8 total engine hrs? or is the total 867.6 which include the idle hours?

5532D25A-B2E7-4E04-83DB-BD56BCD12756.jpeg

Posted

If you sit in the truck and let it idle for 6 minutes (0.1 hours) you'll know for sure.

 

I expect the total to include idling -- but haven't done the 6 minute thing while the hours page was displayed.

Posted

And just how do you get Idle Hours to display? 

 

I only see Hours. Doesn't list total or idle.

Posted

Total means ALL hours....

 

You have roughly 4,500 more mile on the engine than the odometer shows.

Posted
1 hour ago, willsep said:

In the DIC Information screen scroll down until you see Engine and Idle hours

It must be a Chevy or Denali thing. On a '21 1500 and a '22 3500 GMC's Denali screen, it just shows a engine icon and hours...

 

20220127_072821.thumb.jpg.906aca0cb83b9fca767042955c0ead83.jpg

Posted
7 hours ago, gemarsh said:

It must be a Chevy or Denali thing. On a '21 1500 and a '22 3500 GMC's Denali screen, it just shows a engine icon and hours...

 

20220127_072821.thumb.jpg.906aca0cb83b9fca767042955c0ead83.jpg

I don't have the Idle hours either... 21 Silverado RST

Posted

My is 2020 Sierra 1500 3.0 diesel. And just a quick question to elcamino, How did you figure 4500 extra miles? I am just curious, thanks.

Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, willsep said:

My is 2020 Sierra 1500 3.0 diesel. And just a quick question to elcamino, How did you figure 4500 extra miles? I am just curious, thanks.

Lots of machines get maintenance done based on hours -- even though miles is more common on road vehicles. 

 

Anyway, it's sometimes useful to compare the methods. 

 

 

Your truck has 32,264 miles.

Since both hourmeters are available, we know that driving time is  868 - 123 = 745 hours.

Avg miles per hour = 32264 / 745 = 43.3 mpg

 

If the idling time was at the same rate -- 43.3 x 123 = 5326 additional miles. 

 

el camino calculated using total hours, so used  32264 / 868 = 37 mph

37 miles/hour  x 123 hour = 4570 miles 

(and of course, if total is the only thing that is available -- then we use total mile / total time )

 

 

Of course, we all realize that there has to be some idling time (-warm-up, stop lights, etc etc) and that all driving is not at freeway speed. 

Leads us to what is the 'normal' average vehicle speed.  

For some reason I seem to think that typical average speed (base on total hours) is somewhere in the mid 30's.

 

If the total hours is the only thing that is available -- then then our only option is to compare the average speed with typical  average speeds for the same vehicle type.  Imperfect method, but can give a little insight into how it is being used.

 

The was a bulletin or info sheet or tech sheet gm put out that did give an average speed to use with the idling hours - to add to odo miles for service purposes.  It also said that for warranty odo mileage should still be used.

 

 

 

an example:

The forklift has 6500 hours -- how does that compare to my pickup?

6,500 hr x 37 mile/hr = 240,500 miles 

Edited by redwngr
Posted

Thanks redwngr, that was a great explanation, and I really appreciate your knowledge and time on the issue.

Posted
On 1/25/2022 at 4:14 PM, willsep said:

Are idle hours included in engine total hours?

I have total of 867.6 and Idle 123.2, does this make it 990.8 total engine hrs? or is the total 867.6 which include the idle hours?

 

 

 

Total is total.  Of the 867.6hrs, 123.2 of those has been idling.

 

GM's calculation (formula applies to gas and diesel):  The Diesel Exhaust System and DPF Soot Accumulation – TechLink (gm-techlink.com)

 

"Vehicle Idling

Some vehicles may spend a lot of time idling. Use the following steps to aid in determining the equivalent mileage (kilometers):

Record the total engine hours indicated on the DIC.

Multiply the engine hours by 33 miles or 53 km. This represents an average speed of 33 MPH or 53 KM/H.

The result should be close to or lower than the mileage on the odometer.

For example, if a vehicle has 1812.3 engine hours and 60,837 miles (97,908 km) on the odometer, the engine run time would equate to about 59,806 miles (96,052 km) (1812.3 X 33 = 59,806) (1812.3 X 53 = 96,052).

Since the calculated mileage is less than the actual mileage, the vehicle does not spend an excessive amount of time idling.

If the calculated mileage is more than the actual mileage, the vehicle would be considered a vehicle that idles a lot and this information may be useful in diagnosing any issues."

 

867.6hrs x 33mph = 28,630.8mi.  Per your odometer at 32264mi, Your truck has "traveled" 3,633.2mi more than the engine has physically been running.

 

If you applied this formula to your idle hours, 123.2hrs x 33mph, your engine has had 4065.6mi worth of idling on it, therefore 24,565.2mi of driving time, totaling 28630.8mi.

 

So you'd be a low idler.  

Posted

Thanks newdude, that’s really good information. I really appreciate all the knowledge from ya’ll.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I'm the original poster of this thread; I'm 85,000 miles now with no transmission issues after they did the fluid change without filter at 45,000.  I plan on a fluid change AND filter in another 5,000 miles and agree with you on staying to witness what happens if possible.  Ideally I would have done the filter at 45,000 too, but my original dealer was incompetent.  I've since moved on and get service done by another more reputable dealer, so I'm hopeful they follow the correct procedure at 90,000.  
    • Sure, but they do have some affordable options like the Trax, Trailblazer, Envista, and Encore. Some of these have a cheaper base price than the Civic, though the fuel economy isn’t as high. The main problem is that people WANT the highest trim with all the goodies and finance for like 7 years. That’s how ppl “afford” the more expensive vehicles. 
    • Holy s**t - not much of a parts thrower you say? You BLASTED that thing with the parts cannon!  You'd have been probably $1,000 ahead if you had just brought it to a competent shop rather than shotgunning a bunch of parts it clearly didn't need.   Just FYI - oil additives are really, REALLY good at ONE thing ... and that's emptying your wallet. They're ALL useless gimmicks.   If that has the L94 or L99, then #7 is an AFM cylinder. I'd suspect a failed lifter in that case.   If you leaned on wiring, sensors, and/or connectors while changing the oil, you'll have to check all that to be sure pins didn't get pulled out, connectors broken, etc.. Old wire loom that was barely adequate when new is certainly brittle by year 19 - make sure wires aren't chaffed and shorting out somewhere where you might have leaned. or supported yourself on it.   If your a mechanic, why didn't you just find out what you were missing and troubleshoot from there??  TIMED spark, fuel PSI / injector pulse, air, compression.  Can't make ANY money going the parts cannon route.
    • LOL! Are you joking?? That wax SUCKS! 100% gimmick made to "look" good.    After just TWO winters I had severe surface rusting in patches over 90% of the frame. Only reason it looks great in the pics is because I SATURATED the frame every single fall with used motor oil for 14 of the 16 years I owned it. Otherwise it would've been sent to the crusher 8 years earlier with the speed it was rusting prior!    I sold that POS 3 years ago. Was a gigantic headache the second it rolled off the showroom floor. Brakes pulsated on the TEST DRIVE. Door trim fell off the 1st week! Interior squeaked and rattled, and the drivetrain clunked after 2k miles. 4x4 switch failed shortly after. Front end - ball joints, struts, hub bearings - all failed between 38k-50k. Engine started burning oil at 50k. Rear and and transmission failed before 100k. Nothing but problems, and frustration with the piss-poor engineering designed to make you give up. Well, it worked! Nothing on that truck was easy to remove ... except the wheels. They haven't figured out how to screw that up yet. Give 'em time ...   I won't make that mistake again. EVER.   Such fond memories ... https://postimg.cc/K1qf23tS  https://postimg.cc/gallery/X02z64J  https://postimg.cc/gallery/mHSRXZv  https://postimg.cc/gallery/D4mMRfL
    • Different monitors do their test only under conditions specific to that monitor.  you MIGHT find the drive cycle conditions for the monitor that isn't ready on this site: https://lemon-manuals.la/   If it's not there, then it should be on alldata.com for your truck, but it requires a paid subscription.   And you need to know which specific monitor isn't ready.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...