Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
4 minutes ago, capitalst said:

Thanks for the info. I just found out today I have the same issue with my 3 month old Sierra trailering my new boat with EOH brakes. Not a good thing when trailering almost 10k worth of weight behind me.

Oh agreed.  I'm less worried about the value of the camper I'm towing and more the lives of my family.

Posted

Add me to this list of the trailer brakes not working.  Got the truck 2 weeks ago and last weekend took the camper out for the first time with the new truck. Brakes worked a short while, then got the same message and the trailer brakes wouldn't work at all.  I pulled over, shut the truck off, disconnected the harness and plugged it back in.  Same thing, worked for a shot time, then the error message and total loss of trailer brakes. After the third time of this nonsense I gave up. When I got home, I checked my wiring on the trailer and all was good. I know I didn't have a problem with the trailer brakes with my old truck and towed my trailer the week before I traded it in.  This condition is highly dangerous and I'm surprised it hasn't been reported to NHTSA yet.  I'm taking my truck in next week to have it checked out.  If there really isn't a fix for this, then NHTSA, the Michigan Attorney General Consumer Protection Division, and my lawyer will be getting a call soon after.

brakes.jpeg

Posted

You can add me to the list. Recently picked up a '22 LTZ that is demonstrating this problem. The dealership mentioned a service bulletin, which I'm sure is the one linked here, and then explained that there's no solution available for it. I bought my particular truck to tow and there is towing to be done. 

 

Has anyone been successful in getting their selling dealership to buy the vehicle back and get them into something functional? If I don't get towing capability restored soon I'm going to start missing commitments and to put it bluntly, this is Chevy's boo boo, not mine.  

Posted
36 minutes ago, Shield1984 said:

Anyone have any updates? I don’t have anything new from GM. 

I have a new case open w/GM legal  right now, they contacted me after I filed a BBB complaint - I received the call yesterday.  This one was a little better vs. last conversations with customer service.  She was reaching out to the service manager who quoted me the service bulletin number/etc to find out more.  No record on her side, however it was good to hear they are working to "connect the dots"...

 

Posted

Well, I decided to file a NHTSA complaint about this issue tonight. I think everyone should so they start putting heat on GM for all this.  Someone is going to get into a really bad accident soon over this nonsense.  

Posted
On 11/2/2022 at 11:59 AM, Shield1984 said:

Anyone have any updates? I don’t have anything new from GM. 

No updates on my side either. :(

Posted

I opened a case with BBB also. Hoping to either get something resolved or they buy it back so I can buy a truck that can tow 😞

Posted

I've been working with my dealership and have arranged a swap for a truck tested to be working. Hopefully everything works out and I can put this behind me. 

 

As far as I can tell, information about this particular issue hasn't been finding its way to the dealerships. As others have experienced, the bulletin does not show when someone pulls the VIN on my truck but the bulletin itself does positively identify my VIN/build-date. My dealership swears they didn't know at the time of the sale and I believe them. I've called around a little and everyone reacts to me like they have no clue what I'm talking about. 

 

I'm thankful my dealership is willing to play ball on getting this sorted and I feel for those of you that are struggling to get a solution in place. These trucks should have never been sold without this particular flaw being revealed. As some of you have mentioned, sure it's annoying but there is a safety issue underlying this. Poor form Chevrolet. 

Posted
5 hours ago, Anthony Bessel said:

I've been working with my dealership and have arranged a swap for a truck tested to be working. Hopefully everything works out and I can put this behind me. 

 

As far as I can tell, information about this particular issue hasn't been finding its way to the dealerships. As others have experienced, the bulletin does not show when someone pulls the VIN on my truck but the bulletin itself does positively identify my VIN/build-date. My dealership swears they didn't know at the time of the sale and I believe them. I've called around a little and everyone reacts to me like they have no clue what I'm talking about. 

 

I'm thankful my dealership is willing to play ball on getting this sorted and I feel for those of you that are struggling to get a solution in place. These trucks should have never been sold without this particular flaw being revealed. As some of you have mentioned, sure it's annoying but there is a safety issue underlying this. Poor form Chevrolet. 

Glad to hear your dealership is doing you right on that one. The best my dealer would do is let me trade it in at a 7k loss. I declined. 

Posted

Talked to GM today - The news I am getting is they now see the issue at corporate - the Regional Manager (Service?) is supposed to reach out to me directly, but the "Brand Quality" Team is working on a fix and hope to have it rolled out between Thanksgiving and Christmas.

 

I did ask them to keep my case open until I see resolution on this issue.

Posted
5 minutes ago, brentrb031 said:

Talked to GM today - The news I am getting is they now see the issue at corporate - the Regional Manager (Service?) is supposed to reach out to me directly, but the "Brand Quality" Team is working on a fix and hope to have it rolled out between Thanksgiving and Christmas.

 

I did ask them to keep my case open until I see resolution on this issue.

Thank you for the update brentrb031! I hope the timeline GM refers to (between Thanksgiving and Christmas) refers to the current year :P.

Posted
5 minutes ago, drafil said:

Thank you for the update brentrb031! I hope the timeline GM refers to (between Thanksgiving and Christmas) refers to the current year :P.

Ha!

 

She did say 6 weeks...

  • Like 1
Posted

I took the truck to the dealer this morning, they ran a scan and it threw a brake controller error in the ECM. They said GM doesn't have a fix yet and told me to come pick it up. I'll call GM tomorrow to see if I get the same answer that a fix is in the works.  I'm still pretty upset that it has this serious safety flaw.  I know my butt puckered a little when I hit the brakes on a 55 mph back road and the truck and trailer didn't want to stop like it should have.  I live in Southeast Michigan and I'm wondering if the local news outlets would be interested in warning folks on a serious safety hazard with these new trucks.  

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • There would be one way of determining the quality of the factory oil although probably more than a typical oil lab test, and that would be to draw out some oil from a new truck and send a sample to a lab that could do a more elaborate test of the oil. The issue with too little oil in the diff may not be the lack of lubrication of the diff bearings and gears themselves ( although a lack of oil volume for cooling ) but the wheel bearings because at some point the oil would be too low to properly get onto the spinning axle or fed along the axle tube. That was the claim by the local dealer from a couple of trucks in recent years that had the wheel bearings fail and they figured from lack of sufficient oil due to a severe underfilled diff and some of the bearing material made its way to the diff and it got damaged as well so the axle housings were just replaced on warranty. But your right that if the diff is over filled by whatever margin that it causes more churning of the oil than is desirable and that is no good either and can cause a pinion seal to leak. Also old oil I believe can tend to loose some of its properties like antifoaming and another good reason to change the diff oil every so often. 
    • I would be surprised if the diff's were not filled (with the cheapest gear lube) at the axle factory before being shipped to GM.  If you ever watched them building trucks they install the axles and all suspension parts with the frame upside down and then turn it over before its time to install the engine.     Too much gear lube in a axle can be worse than not enough especially with a lower quality GL where is get whipped up with entrained air (foam)  weakening its ability to lubricate.        
    • This is the 6.6 gasser section of the forum, you should either delete or modify your previous post as it is misleading for anyone looking for factual information on their 6.6 gas engine.
    • Well....I've done my first intake gasket. Probably wrong, but...we'll see?   Ultra black on the china walls and 1/4" up onto the sides of the intake gaskets. Permatex High Tack (couldn't find Gaskachinch) on the head side of the intake gasket. I read wrong and it says you're supposed to put it on the mating surface of the head, not the gasket. Hoping it's like a PB&J sandwich where it doesn't matter what side the PB goes on so long as there's jelly. That crap is messy/sticky and I got a dab or two on the intake port openings, tried to wipe it off. Hopefully it won't be a big deal and will only aid in sealing.   Per instructions I left the intake (top side) of the gasket dry except for a light smear of RTV around the coolant ports. Wiggling the intake in there was a bear but I had help to free me of surrounding wiring/stuff but I was basically able to set it straight down lined up with the bolt holes.   I did not think to wait until the RTV skinned over but there probably was 5-10 minutes while it sat before installing the intake.   Bolts finger tight first. Then, followed the Chilton's manual pattern to snug them to 15 lb-ft.   Waited a little over an hour, and then did the final torque in sequence again to 35 lb-ft.   Yesterday I replaced the fuel pressure regulator and got my new "nut and bolt kit" (fuel lines) installed. Damn GM used security torx on the spider, which I don't have, so I got scammed at the local HW store for an off-brand security Torx bit set.   The new driver's door mirror arrived yesterday, so, there's a chance this thing could be running and road legal tomorrow? I don't want to get my hopes up.   This will be my first time stabbing a distributor, too. Although, lucky me, someone else marked the old distributor for removal previously, I did see that. (Someone's been here before!!). Engine is still at TDC so it *should* be just a matter of transferring the mark to the new dizzy and rotating it into place.
    • He has his dad’s newer truck he’s put away. He has several old cars he rotates between him and his family. I’ve seen a restored square body and a SS Chevy truck he’s sometimes drives. He did raffle off a new suburban recently. As much as he is watched if he drove new stuff as a rule we’d know it. It would be fine by me. I don’t care what people prefer. I got one more new one in me. I’d rather my wife get one. I can’t get her out of the Genesis. Don’t tell anyone. I want her to get an electric truck. I want to put a generator in the back. Just because. She hasn’t bit yet.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...