Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
8 minutes ago, luke1333 said:

5100s here and Michelin LTX for summer wheels and the ride is like butter. 10x better then ranchos and the truck is actually stable over RR tracks or washboard areas. Sounds like your tires and inflation is off. 

 

I am curious what the MultiMatic DSSV ride like though, heard nothing but good things about them

 Same tire/same pressures before an after. Deductive logic would indicate the shocks and their digressive damping would be the culprit. 

 

Again. 5100s are NOT the shock to choose if you want a more comfortable ride. They are more stable, and less "floaty", yes. But not more comfortable. 

 

That being said, it's a truck. It's not going to ride like an S-class regardless of shock choice. 

  • Thanks 1
Posted
17 hours ago, Method2Madness said:

 Same tire/same pressures before an after. Deductive logic would indicate the shocks and their digressive damping would be the culprit. 

 

Again. 5100s are NOT the shock to choose if you want a more comfortable ride. They are more stable, and less "floaty", yes. But not more comfortable. 

 

That being said, it's a truck. It's not going to ride like an S-class regardless of shock choice. 

I personally thought the truck road like a brick with tire pressures at manufacture recommended pressures no matter the shock combo. Very true if you want comfy ride you go get a yukon with air ride. Those just float on a cloud down the road!

Posted

It  is unfortunate that you purchased a truck with 20 inch wheels. Big wheels and short sidewalls give a hard ride. 20 inch wheels belong on sports cars. My Z71 with 18 inch wheels rides very well.

  • Like 1
Posted

I have the 5100s on my rst with the 20 inch wheels and to me the ride is stiffer. I feel more road imperfections than with the ranchos but i think the handling is more stable imo. when i would go down the backroad I live on with the rachos it felt like the backend was getting a little loose. I dont have that with 5100s 

Posted

I've been contemplating upgrading the shocks on my 2022 custom. I notice my rear end gets really squirrelly sometimes at highway speeds when i go over bumps. I was thinking Bilstein 5100's

  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)
On 2/2/2023 at 1:03 PM, Jus Cruisin said:

I've had a 2019 Ram Limited 4X4 then a 2021 F150 Platinum 4X4 and now a 2023 Denali Ultimate 4X4. The Ram had the best ride with the air suspension. The F150 had the worst (I think the light weight contributed). And the Denali is pretty close to the Ram. I have magnetic ride and it rides really smoothly even with the 22's. 

Unless I missing something, I'pretty sure that, like my Denali, your shocks' valves are electronically controlled, but your do not have magnetic ride control, which used to involve electrically charged shock fluid. 

Edited by MrLeadFoot
Posted

What kind of tires? Big wheels, less tire sidewall equals rough ride. My son's performance 18' wheels/tires are rough as hell...and noisy. When his 16' wheels are put on fro winter...smooth as hell. The brand makes a difference too. Before spending on shocks, it would be nice swap wheels and tires with another truck. The dealer should be able to do this as you're new truck is not right. As a lifelong mechanic, I was always amazed how certain brands of tires changed a vehicle ride completely.

  • Like 1
Posted

Don't expect Bilstein shocks to improve your ride quality as they are very firm. The 20 inch tires are the issue. Replace them with the Z71 18 inch wheels and Michelin Defender tires.

  • Like 1
Posted
On 4/4/2023 at 12:35 PM, dgstarr63 said:

Don't expect Bilstein shocks to improve your ride quality as they are very firm. The 20 inch tires are the issue. Replace them with the Z71 18 inch wheels and Michelin Defender tires.

Exactly!

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

On my 2014 LTZ Z71, I replaced the ranch’s with bilsteins and riding is stiffer but after years of riding on them, I am thinking of replacing it all with some fox shocks. I am wondering if anyone has any comments on this? Cheaper option is to use the fox 2.0 shocks or spend way more and get the fox 2,5 adjustable shocks. My repair shop is getting told that these shock’s don’t work as well in colder climates. I do ride on 20 but I think going with e expensive way is still cheaper than a new vehicle. The adjustments will allow me to change the ride and tons of new vehicle use the same shocks like fox and even the zr2 Colorado and Silverado so they must work in all climates.

Posted (edited)

I put the fox 2.0 on my 2020 Z71 and raised the front 2 inches and the back 1 1/2 with blocks. The floating feeling is gone and the truck is smoother on rough roads than it was with the ranchos. I have 20 inch wheels so the ride is still a little rough but much better than before. My friends that have full size trucks all comment on how much better mine rides than their truck. The highway multiple bouncy thing and actually rocking when sitting still and other cars went by was unbearable. 

Edited by SilverMak
Posted (edited)

20's on my old '11 Tahoe w/electronic shocks, not magna, and it rode good with the factory 20's. Not AT or LT tires though and that's the difference.

20's on my LTZ Z71 but those stock tires are not LT's or beefy AT tires so it rides good for a light in the rear pickup. 

20's on my Traverse High Country and it rides great. 

There is more to it other than just the 20's. Sidewall height and flex are the big part of it also. 

 

Edited by repairman54
none
  • 1 year later...
Posted

Any suggestions for a better suspension ride. I guess struts and shocks on a 2019 chevy silverado custom.  Leveled. No lift kit but 33x12.5x20 tires

Offset -13

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 1/30/2023 at 7:10 AM, newdude said:

Put 200lbs in the bed.  Its a truck.  Empty ride is never as soft as a ride with a load.  

Soft my ass 😆 My truck rear bounces like a hoopty when pulling my boat. Its not even that heavy-3K lbs.

Posted
On 1/30/2023 at 2:03 PM, asilverblazer said:

The Bilstein shock absorbers are valved slightly more aggressively than factory to more aggressively dampen suspension motions. 

 

This can do two things. An impact from a bump might feel more severe initially because a more aggressive shock absorber won't allow the suspension to compress as much or as quickly. This impact will get transferred to the passenger compartment - you.

 

Second, there will be less bounces from the same impact. While the initial impact might seem more severe, there will be fewer subsequent bounces, because the shock absorber already limited or slowed the motion. 

 

These two conditions make describing the effects of the shocks confusing. The ride may seem rougher from the impact but also less bouncy at the same time or smoother... Each individual will have different preferences to these two sensations.

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Compression test? Weird noises? Fuel trims?
    • I suspect at some point in the near future, the hardware will be free and you pay a subscription to access the vehicle - alldata style.
    • I've been eyeing an upgrade to my tonneau cover for a bit now.  Intrigued by the BAK MX4 EZ-Lift with the torsion spring and went for the upgrade.  Thoughts and musings during unpacking, install and a few days of usage.   Once my order went into Realtruck, it took about 4 days to ship.  Unfortunately, FedEx Ground destroyed the box and contents and it was unusable upon receipt.  To Realtruck's credit, one email with pictures and an RMA was sent to me to send the first one back, and another unit was shipped out.  It arrived 3 days later, unscathed.   I opened the box and it looked like every other BAK MX4.   Biggest differences are the rails and retaining clamps, and of course the spring attached to the cover itself.     NOTE - if you are upgrading from a MX4 to the EZ-Lift, you will have to replace the rails.  The EZ-Lift rails have a notch cut in them to allow the new style retaining clamps to fit properly.  The new retaining clamps also have 2 knobs/carriage bolts and there are two tracks underneath the front panel. The strap clips are mildly different (more like the Undercover Flex clamps) in that the screws go in from the underside.  Personally I prefer these over the BAK clamps that use the nutserts that are a nuisance to install.  The remainder of the parts in the box (drain tubes, rail clamps, and bumper pads) are standard issue BAK.     I did not replace my front bed seal at the time because it seemed to be in decent shape.   BAK recommends shims on the GM trucks unless you place the clamps on the flanges about 1/3 of the way in from both the front and rear of the bed.  I shimmed the front and the middle, and initially placed the clamps equidistant.  This also turned out to be a mistake, because when I set the cover in place, the new style retaining clamps wouldn't clear the front clamp.   New style clamp inserted in the track:     And the issue which occurred because the front rail clamp was too far forward:     Once I removed the shim from the front of the bed, and slid the clamp back to the front flange, everything cleared fine.     The cover set on the rails without issue and I installed the strap clamps.  After I completed my adjustments, I pulled the pin to activate the torsion spring.  Mistake #3 on my part.  PULL THE PIN AS THE VERY VERY VERY LAST STEP!  The reason is, once you pull the pin, the torsion spring is activated.  If you have to loosen the front clamps and adjust the cover, the front panel will - by virtue of the spring, refuse to lay down.  The only way to get it to lay down so you can reinstall and tighten the clamps is to fully open the panel against the back of the cab, which will then allow the front panel of the cover to lay down and be tightened.  Not a big deal unless you haven't installed the foam pads yet (typically the last step) because minus the foam pads, you will need to place something between the frame of the cover and the back window so it doesn't get scratched.  The next time I install one I will install the foam pads before I pull the pin and activate the spring.   After using it for a few days:   The spring assist is great.  You literally can open it with one hand.  My shoulders aren't getting any younger and this was part of my motivation to swap out. The second panel latches and unlatches itself as you open and close the cover.  Neat in concept, however it took me a minute to get used to closing the cover and not hearing the "latching" sound that would tell me it was locked in place. The paddle handles are a huge upgrade and I wouldn't be surprised to see them become the standard across the Realtruck line.  They effectively eliminate the concern that a thief could coat hanger the cover open and get to the contents in the bed. I'm not sure why the very front panel on my cover has a different finish from the other 3 panels.  I have a request into Realtruck to find out if mine was not manufactured properly or if it was by design.   All in all I'm pleased.  Same level of protection, looks good, keeps stuff mostly dry (they all leak around the tailgate) and easy to install.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...