Jump to content

Wired IPhone Charging

marpel
 Share

Recommended Posts

marpel Enthusiast

marpel

Posted
Posted

'22 Sierra SLE HD.

 

At home, I can use a wireless charger or a wired charger for my IPhone. Nothing required beyond plugging it in or laying it on the wireless charger.

 

When in the truck, I can access CarPlay (wirelessly) without having to do anything with the phone (other than having to have it turned on, of course). I do not have wireless charging, so have to charge with the compatible cord.

 

However, every time I wish to charge the phone, after plugging it in I am required to actually open the phone by entering my password. Most times I forget to do this, just plug it in and lay it on the console, so after the trip, the phone is no more charged than when starting the trip. This is no doubt due to not routinely charging the phone very often when in the truck.

 

So my questions are, why do I have to do the password thing for charging only? And, is there a setting or something that I can change to allow this charging without a password?

 

Thanks,

 

Marv

 

 

marpel Enthusiast

marpel

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks nocturnalmotors for the reply, and link. I will take a look at this, but first will see if I can figure out how to use the cable without need for a password.

 

Marv

Jettech1 Senior Enthusiast

Jettech1

Posted
Posted
On 5/30/2023 at 9:16 PM, marpel said:

'22 Sierra SLE HD.

 

At home, I can use a wireless charger or a wired charger for my IPhone. Nothing required beyond plugging it in or laying it on the wireless charger.

 

When in the truck, I can access CarPlay (wirelessly) without having to do anything with the phone (other than having to have it turned on, of course). I do not have wireless charging, so have to charge with the compatible cord.

 

However, every time I wish to charge the phone, after plugging it in I am required to actually open the phone by entering my password. Most times I forget to do this, just plug it in and lay it on the console, so after the trip, the phone is no more charged than when starting the trip. This is no doubt due to not routinely charging the phone very often when in the truck.

 

So my questions are, why do I have to do the password thing for charging only? And, is there a setting or something that I can change to allow this charging without a password?

 

Thanks,

 

Marv

 

 

I have an Android and I never have to put the password in to open it up so it will charge.  Hopefully someone with an Iphone will chime in here and help you.

Another JR Senior Enthusiast

Another JR

Posted
Posted

Settings - Face ID and Password - Allow access when locked - switch on “Accessories”

 

The bad thing about leaving your phone in this configuration is if someone connects it to a computer they would have at least some access to your phone data. 
 

 

marpel Enthusiast

marpel

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Another JR,

 

Thanks for the info. However, what does "connects it to a computer" mean? Are we talking, actually taking the phone (like stealing it) and hardwire connecting it to a computer, or some sort of remote method?

 

If I have a choice between someone potentially accessing data, or remembering to enter my passcode, I would prefer the latter, even though it is a bit of a pain.

 

Marv

Dunn Senior Enthusiast

Dunn

Posted
Posted

Have the wireless android auto and charger but plug it in when it needs to be charged......wireless charger is kinda useless

 

Takes forever

Jettech1 Senior Enthusiast

Jettech1

Posted
Posted
3 minutes ago, Dunn said:

Have the wireless android auto and charger but plug it in when it needs to be charged......wireless charger is kinda useless

 

Takes forever

I don't have the wireless charger in my custom model but using the USB-C port works like a champ.  Mine chargers fast as hell using that port.

Dunn Senior Enthusiast

Dunn

Posted
Posted

Cables make big difference too....quality ones work way better than cheapos.......am sure there is technical reason or something 

  • Like 1
Jettech1 Senior Enthusiast

Jettech1

Posted
Posted
2 minutes ago, Dunn said:

Cables make big difference too....quality ones work way better than cheapos.......am sure there is technical reason or something 

I totally agree, I went through a bunch of cables before my Android would even connect with my truck... they are fickle as hell...

Another JR Senior Enthusiast

Another JR

Posted
Posted
On 6/2/2023 at 4:25 PM, marpel said:

Another JR,

 

Thanks for the info. However, what does "connects it to a computer" mean? Are we talking, actually taking the phone (like stealing it) and hardwire connecting it to a computer, or some sort of remote method?

 

If I have a choice between someone potentially accessing data, or remembering to enter my passcode, I would prefer the latter, even though it is a bit of a pain.

 

Marv

If someone connects the phone to a computet with a USB/lightning cable, the phone normally asks if you want the computer to be able to access the phone and you have to unlock it. By changing the setting I described, you are telling the phone to allow accessories to connect when the phone is locked. I was warning you that changing that setting may allow a computer to access the phone. I don’t know if that’s the case because I haven’t tried it. You could change the setting and then try connecting the phone to your own computer via USB/lightning cable and see what the phone does. 

  • 2 weeks later...
Irish Arabic New Member

Irish Arabic

Posted
Posted
On 6/3/2023 at 6:25 AM, marpel said:

Another JR,

 

Thanks for the info. However, what does "connects it to a computer" mean? Are we talking, actually taking the phone (like stealing it) and hardwire connecting it to a computer, or some sort of remote method?

 

If I have a choice between someone potentially accessing data, or remembering to enter my passcode, I would prefer the latter, even though it is a bit of a pain.

 

Marv

snow rider 3d

I try to connect my phone to my computer via USB cable/lightning cable but only data transfer or file sharing can't access the phone.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Chuck FB
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I had skimmed through that article when you posted the link and honestly I felt rather defeated in a sense and realized that all these years in changing oil that in fact putting in what I was told was a good quality oil was probably not filtered as well as it should be although the filter put on the engine would be what ( as long as it never went into bypass mode ) would be the final filtering of the new oil that the engine components would first see, but then the filtering media itself is not up to par to what is ideal because a full flow filter would be too restrictive to filter fine enough for the engines best outcome in the long run. Only one of our tractors over the years which was a Versatile with a 855 Cummins had a separate bypass filter, some engine manufacturers did spec a partial bypass system within the main oil filter but I don't believe any other trucks or equipment I was servicing used such a filter. No doubt a product like the Amsoil bypass system is of benefit as long as nothing goes sideways with the extra plumbing and filter such as a rupture/leak that could cause the oil to pump out of the engine ( yes that Versatile had a remote canister with hoses routed to it as well ). With the idiot egr system on a diesel and as a result forcing a lot more soot into the oil, that certainly isn't helping the diesel engines cause or as you pointed out the GDI engine issue with creating more soot and aside from having a fancy secondary filtering system, changing the oil more often helping lower the total soot load.     So oil manufacturing and the end product is not something one can control and I wonder if there are specs on what various oil packaging companies produce in particle count or size. As to the filtering, if the OEM is not designing a filter size and spec that is really what it could be, they too are short changing the end user and so what is the answer. Of course as you say the oil side can only do so much if the air side isn't keeping up its end of the picture and air filters are only so efficient and if in a dusty environment such as farm or construction or driving gravel roads there is a lot of dirt to filter out and some of that ends up into the air stream.    Of course the irony in places like where I am where they dump the salt on the highways but also will mix in some calcium or outright pure calcium for problem road area's, or using calcium as dust control on gravel roads, the vehicle that gets used in that environment may rust out before a properly engineered engine and maintenance finally wears out so one has to face that reality in the rust belt. 
    • GAMark
      Road Master Active Suspension

      By GAMark · Posted

      Has anyone run these on their 2500?
    • Erfar
      Oil Change

      By Erfar · Posted

      have you stuck with dealer oil changes since then? I made the same switch after getting tired of crawling around under the truck, but I’ve found some dealers are way better than others about getting you in quickly. Curious if yours has been good about scheduling or if you’ve had to look elsewhere for quicker turnaround.
    • cherryred21duramax
      Can anyone decode a VIN to determine if this truck has had emissions issues or a recall?

      By cherryred21duramax · Posted

      Thank you.   I am set on a 3.0 Duramax as my previous truck with a Ford Ecoboost had just as many, if not more, "common" issues.  Cam phasers, timing chain issues, 10-speed valve body and CDF drum, emissions issues, etc.  So I figured, why not get 2x the fuel mileage (these things got 27+mpg on every mixed city/highway test drive I put them through) and better towing capability with resale value to boot?   My minimum, shortest trip will be 50 miles 1-way and I regularly go out of state with a travel trailer.  I'm planning on using this for a marketing/event promotion business also, which would require regular towing of trailers for bands, DJs, sound and lighting gear, along with my personal camera gear for filming events.   Looked at other trucks in the $30k+ price range but the issues seem to be everywhere, plus too many with gaudy mods.  I'm literally sticking with RWD trucks because they tend to be actually used as trucks, vs. the 4x4 models I've seen with unsafe lifts, huge tires, and general mods that would affect reliability (I'm wondering if some of them were tuned, hence the aggressive throttle response and hard shifting).   So my goal is to find a stock, 3.0 with 1 or 2 owners, in good physical condition, and decently well maintained.  Can't seem to find that up here, everything in the $27-30k range has had multiple owners, smoke smell, issues, or body damage.  Or the ridiculously modified trucks with 80k miles for under $27k but lots of problems...
    • KARNUT
      OCI, not when but why?

      By KARNUT · Posted

      That’s pretty tough Grumpy. I reread the previous few posts. They all reference oil changes. Much like your last thread. In my humble opinion it keeps things interesting.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...