Jump to content

2.7 Silverado Injector/valve issues, seafoam solution?

Dry
 Share

Recommended Posts

Dry Enthusiast

Dry

Posted
Posted (edited)

I am speculating my 2.7 engine with 9k miles is ‘clogged’ and/or something is wrong as the engine sounds like its loud and rough and there is a heavy knocking sound when cold. Someone recommended with the same problem using seafoam fixed the problem.

 

My problem is I cannot figure out where to apply the seafoam, the throttle body does not seem easily accesible and the airbox does not have any airflow when I felt inside after removing the clamp. I still have the can of seafoam but for the life of me do not feel like tearing the engine apart just to get to the throttle body and I also do not want to suck it into the turbo.

Any help in easily applying the spray seafoam would be greatly appreciated.

 

Not the best video but you can slightly hear it, its more noticeable in park not D.

IMG_1837.jpeg

 

Edited by Dry
  • Haha 1
KARNUT Senior Enthusiast

KARNUT

Posted
Posted
4 hours ago, Dry said:

I am speculating my 2.7 engine with 9k miles is ‘clogged’ and/or something is wrong as the engine sounds like its loud and rough and there is a heavy knocking sound when cold. Someone recommended with the same problem using seafoam fixed the problem.

 

My problem is I cannot figure out where to apply the seafoam, the throttle body does not seem easily accesible and the airbox does not have any airflow when I felt inside after removing the clamp. I still have the can of seafoam but for the life of me do not feel like tearing the engine apart just to get to the throttle body and I also do not want to suck it into the turbo.

Any help in easily applying the spray seafoam would be greatly appreciated.

 

Not the best video but you can slightly hear it, its more noticeable in park not D.

IMG_1837.jpeg

 

Take it to the dealer especially if you are still under warranty. Honestly it doesn’t seem you have enough knowledge to access the problem. There are many signs to help diagnose the problem. That sounds more of a mechanical issue than fuel. There should be codes being thrown. A dealer or trusted mechanic is the direction you should be heading. 

64BAwagon Senior Enthusiast

64BAwagon

Posted
Posted

Whoever suggested using seafoam is not your friend and should be excluded from offering automotive advice forever.  Its under warranty, let the dealer sort it out. 

 

  • Like 1
newdude Senior Enthusiast

newdude

Posted
Posted
5 hours ago, Dry said:

I am speculating my 2.7 engine with 9k miles is ‘clogged’ and/or something is wrong as the engine sounds like its loud and rough and there is a heavy knocking sound when cold. Someone recommended with the same problem using seafoam fixed the problem.

 

My problem is I cannot figure out where to apply the seafoam, the throttle body does not seem easily accesible and the airbox does not have any airflow when I felt inside after removing the clamp. I still have the can of seafoam but for the life of me do not feel like tearing the engine apart just to get to the throttle body and I also do not want to suck it into the turbo.

Any help in easily applying the spray seafoam would be greatly appreciated.

 

Not the best video but you can slightly hear it, its more noticeable in park not D.

 

 

 

 

 

What noise?  The first video, other than what sounds like the hood latch being released, sounds like a normal 2.7.

 

The second video, hard to tell.  Sounds like coolant gurgling?

 

Either way, neither noise sounds like a "seafoam will solve this" issue.  You are under warranty, take it back.  

  • 4 weeks later...
Dry Enthusiast

Dry

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So does anyone know where to apply seafoam to this engine? Regardless if I attempt now or in a few years, I'd still like to know. This is the 2.7

  • 4 weeks later...
customboss Senior Enthusiast

customboss

Posted
Posted
On 6/15/2024 at 1:14 AM, Dry said:

I am speculating my 2.7 engine with 9k miles is ‘clogged’ and/or something is wrong as the engine sounds like its loud and rough and there is a heavy knocking sound when cold. Someone recommended with the same problem using seafoam fixed the problem.

 

My problem is I cannot figure out where to apply the seafoam, the throttle body does not seem easily accesible and the airbox does not have any airflow when I felt inside after removing the clamp. I still have the can of seafoam but for the life of me do not feel like tearing the engine apart just to get to the throttle body and I also do not want to suck it into the turbo.

Any help in easily applying the spray seafoam would be greatly appreciated.

 

Not the best video but you can slightly hear it, its more noticeable in park not D.

IMG_1837.jpeg

 

It has loud injectors. Run E15 87 octane. Clean for free. I use a bottle of Amsoil PI every 3000-4000 miles in THE GAS TANK.

My injectors are noisy. Check your air filter if original replace it. Bet that helps more than fuel additives. Periodically drive it manual mode to burn off plugs in cylinder 2-3 which also cleans 2-3 injectors. 

johnnyquick Enthusiast

johnnyquick

Posted
Posted

They make a spray can version that has you spray it into the intake just about 1/4" off the throttle plate with a little straw contraption to hold it in place while you spray it in as a buddy or your spouse hold the throttle at 2k rpm's.

The straw could come out of the can so keep hold of it.

After the entire can is empty wait 10 mins and drive it around for a bit.

You also could introduce it just beyond the throttle body most likely at the pcv on the intake manifold just pull the hose off and it will likely suck it in quite readily.

The old days you would just pull the line at the vacuum booster and it would suck it right up and after it sets for awhile enjoy the smoke show...lol

Hope this helps

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • teamjnz
      Stabilitrak conversion to Z71

      By teamjnz · Posted

      Sounds like converting will be a bigger endeavor than I was thinking. This truck doesn't have 2Hi like the Suburban did. The Tahoe has 4Hi and 4Lo and a button to turn of traction control.   From what I understand the Stabilitrak uses open diff in the front and rear. When wheel speed is not the same the stabilitrak uses the ABS system to slowdown the spinning wheel(s) to transfer power to the slower non-spinning wheel(s). I thought the transfer case was open too. Being able to transfer power either more to front or rear depending on wheel spin. Maybe I miss understood some information with you saying and power transfer is 50-50. Thanks
    • PunchT37
      OCI, not when but why?

      By PunchT37 · Posted

      My brother has a 2007 Avalanche with afm 5.3. It`s got 176,000 miles. Runs like a clock. Never been apart. Co worker has a 2010 Tahoe with afm 5.3. 230,000 miles. Never been apart. Runs like a clock. So, even though cyl deac is a weak spot, they can go the distance.   BUT, these engines had the oil changed regularly, AND had 5w30 as spec. I wonder if they would have lasted this far on 0w20? I`ll bet not.
    • Chuck FB
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I certainly could be wrong but I hear of pickups far newer than that 2007 cutoff which may not be going to the wrecker but are having engine work done and be that a reman engine or new engine or trying to repair the existing engine. Some of it would be design issues as per the cylinder deactivation system that GM has and one of those lifters wiping out the cam and the question of oil changes moving the needle or not on that whole mess, or in the case of Ford pickup engines that have the long timing chains and wearing them out and the roller followers and phasers and some of that certainly goes back to oil change intervals. But in those various cases the truck has all sorts of life left in it and so the unfortunate owner and may be original owner or used market owner that is pouring money into repairs so the truck is not seeing the salvage yard yet but damage is happening by infrequent oil changes. A friends son had bought a 2018 I think it is half ton GM and it had some sort of extended or used dealer warranty on it and of course the lifter issue bites and its rattling and so the dealer had to swallow the bill and was at least 7000.00 and I think they only replaced what they felt they had to replace so yeah, I can see that being a ticking time bomb in the not too distant future. Would frequent oil changes cure all these engineering "marvels", probably not but some engine designs have shown that they do much better if the oil is changed a lot more often then if the manufacturer service claims are followed. New trucks cost so much that there is an incentive to keep the existing truck on the road by repairing. 
    • davester
      Tranmission stays in Low

      By davester · Posted

      get a good code reader, and find out what problems the truck has noticed by reading codes. cheap ones can only get basic engine codes, you may want to get one that can get codes from all the computers in your truck.
    • asilverblazer
      OCI, not when but why?

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      This is sort of my point, salvage yards aren't overflowing with all these 'poorly' maintained trucks - excellent/good/servicable condition otherwise, salvaged only as a result of a bad engine from poor oil change regiment.    In my area, there are no 2007 to newer gm trucks/suvs in any salvage yards. A few are in the 'recyclers' with very obvious reasons for being there - wrecked.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...