Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
20 minutes ago, TheRiver said:

 

😲🙄

Maybe I'm the minority but I've also never had a new car burn enough oil that it was even low enough to register.  I didn't check it because I did oil changes earlier than the manual recommended and thought that the techs would tell me if I was low, as would the computer (which obviously eventually it did).

Posted
8 hours ago, ero2 said:

58k

 

which is why I hate to trade it, but I just went out to it now and remote started as I walked up and there was quite a bit of ticking, which the dealer says is the fuel pump, not lifter related.

 

At at what mileage did it start using oil? 

Posted
13 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

 

At at what mileage did it start using oil? 

45k ish?  Right around there.

 

I’ve still got a bit of warranty, and I did call GM and it cannot be extended again.

 

I hate to think about trading it in, but lifters outside of warranty is what, like 9k to swap to non collapsible

Posted
1 hour ago, ero2 said:

45k ish?  Right around there.

 

I’ve still got a bit of warranty, and I did call GM and it cannot be extended again.

 

I hate to think about trading it in, but lifters outside of warranty is what, like 9k to swap to non collapsible

Pretty much around $3.5k if you DIY is worse case scenario and that's doing a tune up and buying your own HP tuners as well.  Go browse my thread a few down from here if you want an idea of what it takes to do it.  If you drop off at a dealership its north of $10k for that.

Posted (edited)
26 minutes ago, DK91105 said:

Pretty much around $3.5k if you DIY is worse case scenario and that's doing a tune up and buying your own HP tuners as well.  Go browse my thread a few down from here if you want an idea of what it takes to do it.  If you drop off at a dealership its north of $10k for that.

My local independent shop said about 9k with upgraded everything, so I guess that tracks.

 

I’m looking at the auto start stop/dfm disabler, but may be too late to do any good.  (https://a.co/d/fEQxHGM this one)

 

It sure sounds like any truck from any company is a crap shoot?

 

GM has lifters 

Toyota is replacing 200k engines so far

Dodge is having hurricane issues 

Nissan is no longer selling Titans right?

Ford is, well, Ford?

 

is there anything that’s safe anymore?  lol.

 

I was leaning towards swapping to a 25 Tundra but I’m looking a bit, even if it is lifters, I may be better just keeping it.

Edited by ero2
  • Like 1
Posted
6 minutes ago, ero2 said:

My local independent shop said about 9k with upgraded everything, so I guess that tracks.

 

I’m looking at the auto start stop/dfm disabler, but may be too late to do any good.

 

It sure sounds like any truck from any company is a crap shoot?

 

GM has lifters 

Toyota is replacing 200k engines so far

Dodge is having hurricane issues 

Nissan is no longer selling Titans right?

Ford is, well, Ford?

 

is there anything that’s safe anymore?  lol.

 

I was leaning towards swapping to a 25 Tundra but I’m looking a bit, even if it is lifters, I may be better just keeping it.

 

I feel like $9k is robbery still....   Id do it for $5k in my garage, lol.

Posted
2 hours ago, ero2 said:

45k ish?  Right around there.

 

I’ve still got a bit of warranty, and I did call GM and it cannot be extended again.

 

I hate to think about trading it in, but lifters outside of warranty is what, like 9k to swap to non collapsible

 

@richard wysong suggesting the PCV system is solid. However they do not malfunction for no reason. Blowby (loss of ring seal) overloads them early and when they plug, it is as Richard states. It is a bit of the chicken and the egg however.

 

Several possible scenarios. 

 

1.) Oil control ring and or land return passages plugged/plugging. This won't show on a compression check. 

2.) HPFP or injectors leaking into the sump will tank the viscosity and break the seal. It will show up on a UOA as a good dose of GC fuels. Over 2.5%

3.) Combination of the above two wear out the bore. This will also show up as large fuel dilution and knowing which witch is which can be difficult. It will show on a compression check.

4.) DLH coating on the rings failing. Pretty much a teardown to diagnose and repair. 

 

Auto RX used as directed will free those rings. That said if the bore is damaged that may not stop the consumption. 

 

I tired dong it in steps on a 2.4 to isolate and it took so long that the bores failed even though I fixed the issues of bad pump/injectors and freed the rings and installed a new PCV system. Doing them in concert won't answer any questions but it does give you a better change of success. Replace the PCV system components. Do a UAO, @Black02Silveradocan help with that. And while you wait on the results of the labs Auto Rx it per instructions. No shortcuts. After the rinse oil change use something line HPL Premium or AMSOIL SS and go 5W30. If this works you oil or your oil maintenance program failed you. 

 

Fresh air filter helps the PCV system. Fresh plugs is a good idea and have the coil function checked. 

 

That is all I have for you sir. Best wishes.....

 

I'm not telling you this will work. I'm telling you if you don't worse is what it gets. I've nursed that 2.4 since 80K and she is limping along at 266K and been a full time job keeping her running.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

  • Like 2
Posted
19 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

 

At at what mileage did it start using oil? 

 

At what mileage SHOULD he be checking oil level?????

Posted

It's a good idea to check it once a week unless there is a low level sensor, Most folks are too lazy to bother, myself included, the Caddy leaks oil but has a sensor so about the time it says check the oil the second time I just change it, The truck uses a quart between changes but gets checked once in a while. Again a vehicle that never sees the hi-way and does short trips not reaching operating temp for any significant amount of time should be using the severe service oil change intervals and as Grumpy stated the rings may be gummed up.Common occurance in my Caddy because even on the hi-way it's only turning 1200 rpm, GMs solution is Wide open throttle runs to exercise the rings and decarbonize, night and day difference in the way it runs after. My last Caddy was an earlier generation Northstar that burned 5 gallons of oil on a 1400 mile trip to Fla, after doing the WOT thing it only burned 2 gallons going home, GMs solution for that was replace the rings. Sold the car

Posted
1 hour ago, TheRiver said:

 

At what mileage SHOULD he be checking oil level?????

 

I check mine at fuel stops. Unless you've been looking from day one you don't know what is normal or when it starts. 

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)
20 hours ago, ero2 said:

My local independent shop said about 9k with upgraded everything, so I guess that tracks.

 

I’m looking at the auto start stop/dfm disabler, but may be too late to do any good.  (https://a.co/d/fEQxHGM this one)

 

It sure sounds like any truck from any company is a crap shoot?

 

GM has lifters 

Toyota is replacing 200k engines so far

Dodge is having hurricane issues 

Nissan is no longer selling Titans right?

Ford is, well, Ford?

 

is there anything that’s safe anymore?  lol.

 

I was leaning towards swapping to a 25 Tundra but I’m looking a bit, even if it is lifters, I may be better just keeping it.

No these trucks are now made to throw away and get worse with each passing year IMO. We have already seen this progression with smaller appliances. When i was a kid a washing machine was a once every 20+ year purchase. Today if you get 5 years of use out of one, and that is top end line ones, you should feel lucky. One of the bad elements that have arrived with EV tech is manufactures will make far more money building these things to NOT last! You make them so unaffordable to repair that the only move that makes sense is complete replacement. Even better for manufactures and bad for customers is it will eventually completely eliminate the secondary market for the most part!

Edited by BIGDOGx
  • Like 1
Posted
9 minutes ago, BIGDOGx said:

No these trucks are now made to throw away and get worse with each passing year IMO. We have already seen this progression with smaller appliances. When i was a kid a washing machine was a once every 20+ year purchase. Today if you get 5 years of use out of one, and that is top end line ones, you should feel lucky. One of the bad elements that have arrived with EV tech is manufactures will make far more money building these things to NOT last! You make them so unaffordable to repair that the only move that makes sense is complete replacement. Even better for manufactures and bad for customers is it will eventually completely eliminate the secondary market for the most part!

Depending on what’s available warranty wise with CPO I may consider leasing. If it’s trouble free leasing and I can add an extended warranty to then buy it. I may try that. I have several family members that have bought VW products. They are happy with those so far. In December they have sign and drive. I got about two years before I hit 200K on the Odyssey. The maintenance to pass 200K would finance at least 2 years on a VW lease. Probably additional upkeep on the Odyssey would give me another year in lease payments covering the VW. I don’t have to worry about payments, I just like the running the numbers for fun. And the attraction of a shiny new SUV for traveling doesn’t hurt. People are placing bets in my family on the when I’m going to get the next one. It’s approaching 2 years with the Odyssey. I usually change something every two years. I don’t have the overwhelming urge yet. I passed on two so far that could have replaced the avalanche. Didn’t pull the trigger. 

Posted (edited)
3 minutes ago, KARNUT said:

Depending on what’s available warranty wise with CPO I may consider leasing. If it’s trouble free leasing and I can add an extended warranty to then buy it. I may try that. I have several family members that have bought VW products. They are happy with those so far. In December they have sign and drive. I got about two years before I hit 200K on the Odyssey. The maintenance to pass 200K would finance at least 2 years on a VW lease. Probably additional upkeep on the Odyssey would give me another year in lease payments covering the VW. I don’t have to worry about payments, I just like the running the numbers for fun. And the attraction of a shiny new SUV for traveling doesn’t hurt. People are placing bets in my family on the when I’m going to get the next one. It’s approaching 2 years with the Odyssey. I usually change something every two years. I don’t have the overwhelming urge yet. I passed on two so far that could have replaced the avalanche. Didn’t pull the trigger. 

I’ve had 2 Atlas’ now, and over the last 15 years 2 Passats and a Jetta and never an issue.  It’s funny that people always seem to say to stay away from them.

 

I normally don’t have this much trouble with decisions but I’m ultimately at, do I keep the Sierra, or is the oil thing a big enough issue to get out while I can and head to a Tundra or another brand.  Not sure anyone can truly answer that, but is why I’m struggling for sure.  Guess maybe the second part is what company is more likely to stand by their product?

 

Completely agree that nothing is made to last anymore!

Edited by ero2
Posted
9 minutes ago, ero2 said:

I’ve had 2 Atlas’ now, and over the last 15 years 2 Passats and a Jetta and never an issue.  It’s funny that people always seem to say to stay away from them.

 

I normally don’t have this much trouble with decisions but I’m ultimately at, do I keep the Sierra, or is the oil thing a big enough issue to get out while I can and head to a Tundra or another brand.  Not sure anyone can truly answer that, but is why I’m struggling for sure.  Guess maybe the second part is what company is more likely to stand by their product?

 

Completely agree that nothing is made to last anymore!

Tundra had some problems initially with the new V-6. From what I’ve read the stepped in and took care of the problem. Now they seem fine. I know one guy with a new one, he’s very happy with it. My brother in law bought his daughter a VW SUV for college graduation. He’s only owned large GM SUVs. He’s so impressed his next vehicle will be their largest SUV.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,774
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    lanaderay
    Newest Member
    lanaderay
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,532 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Are you playing Slide Down endlessly but your score is still low? Are you constantly crashing into obstacles as the game speed increases? Don't worry, this article will share 5 invaluable tips to help you master the race and impress your friends. Golden Rules 1. Look one step further. The mistake of 90% of new players is only staring at their character. The secret of experts is to look towards the top of the screen (where the slide is about to appear). This gives your brain an extra 0.5 - 1 second to process the situation and determine the direction of movement before the obstacle approaches. 2. Use gentle movements; don't swipe too hard. Slide Down is very sensitive. Moving your finger too forcefully or with excessive amplitude will cause your character to be thrown off course or crash into a wall. Practise moving your finger with small, decisive, and precise movements. 3. Don't be greedy for gold in dangerous locations. Gold coins are tempting for buying skins, but life is more important. If you see a gold coin right on the edge of a cliff or next to a spike trap, ignore it. Our goal is a High Score, and your score only increases if you survive. 4. Make the most of Power-ups. During the slide, you'll encounter items like Magnets (attract gold) or Shields (temporary invincibility). Never miss them! Especially the Shield, it's your "get out of jail free card" to help you get through those deadly fast sections. 5. Stay calm when speed peaks. When your score exceeds 500 or 1000, the game speed will be very fast. At this point, don't try to think logically; let your natural reflexes work. Take deep breaths and don't panic. Apply these 5 tips to your next game, and your leaderboard will surely improve dramatically. Good luck climbing the Slide Down leaderboard!
    • If you use compressed air regularly, one problem you cannot ignore is moisture. Water in the air line can cause rust, unstable air pressure, poor tool performance, and even damage to sensitive equipment. That is why I highly recommend using a desiccant air dryer. A desiccant air dryer is designed to remove moisture from compressed air by using drying materials such as activated alumina or molecular sieve. Compared with basic water separators, it can achieve much lower dew points, making it especially useful for applications that require dry and stable air. For workshops, painting systems, pneumatic tools, CNC machines, laser cutting equipment, and industrial production lines, a desiccant air dryer can make a big difference. It helps protect equipment, improve air quality, reduce maintenance costs, and extend the service life of the whole compressed air system. Another advantage is reliability. Many desiccant air dryers are built for continuous operation and can maintain stable drying performance even in demanding environments. For users who care about long-term efficiency and equipment protection, this is a smart investment. When choosing a desiccant air dryer, I suggest paying attention to air flow capacity, working pressure, dew point performance, regeneration method, and maintenance requirements. A good model should match your compressor system and actual air consumption. Overall, if moisture is causing problems in your compressed air system, a desiccant air dryer is definitely worth considering. It is practical, efficient, and highly useful for anyone who needs clean, dry, and reliable compressed air.
    • My brand new 2007 Silverado's wax frame was rust from end to end partway through it's SECOND winter here in MA. That stuff is completely useless.    
    • I went another direction after losing a trailer tire, thanks to not being able to access air at ANY of the 5 gas stations and garages I stopped at prior, with a Toyota Tacoma onboard, 50 miles from the Canadian border. They were either out of order, access was blocked, or the hose a few feet too short and I couldn't get any closer without risking damage to someone's property.   https://postimg.cc/gallery/X5QJ55w
    • I took a 12 second video on my iphone but the file is too big to upload. I will have to figure out how to extract the audio or just do another start with an audio recording. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...