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Decided to upgrade from the 2010. Debadged as soon as it hit the driveway & illuminated bowtie. Tint today, leather end of the week. And so it begins...

Installed those 2” dropshackles and used the 1.5” hole. Also did airbags to stop the porpoising I was experiencing while pulling a travel trailer at highway speeds over dips. I ride it 1/2” higher than flat with around 10lbs in the bags and around 20lbs with the trailer hooked up and loaded down.

.. color matched shark fin

I just finished installing the Hellwig 7735 rear sway bar and have some similar observations, along with some things that I did differently that seem to have helped. First, I share your frustration about how I expected it to fit and how it actually fit. In every possible scenario, I just don’t see any way that the rear most portion of the sway bar could be both perpendicular to the links and parallel to the frame with the links attached to the rear most mounting holes. Second, I agree that Hellwig really needs to modify their instructions. It’s not that they are poorly written, they really aren’t that bad. It’s that they need more pictures and the pictures need to be spread out throughout the pages of the manual to coincide with the steps. It gets really old, really quickly when you have to flip back and forth to the referenced picture for whichever step you’re in. Arrows certainly would be helpful too. Third, Hellwig needs to give specific parameters as to which mounting angles are acceptable and which are not. The minimum amount of threads inside of the link would also be useful. I think when they say things like “as vertical as they can be” it means different things to different people. Give me a range of what is acceptable. Also, if I have to choose between vertical links or a horizontal sway bar, which one should I choose? Split the difference? If acceptable tolerances were included, it wouldn’t make me feel so uneasy that things aren’t perfectly straight. Now, for the positive. So far, I love what it has done for the handling of my truck on the stiffest setting. I’ve only driven it for 20 minutes swerving around parking lots, over speed bumps and potholes but in that short time I was able to notice some clear benefits. Hard turns at low speed cause only the front outer corner to squat. I can clearly hear a difference in the tread noise and it’s obvious that the truck is planting the tires better. Reduced body roll is a welcomed benefit since swaying back and forth gets a bit tiring. Potholes still suck, but the don’t suck any more with the sway bar vs without. The reduced body roll may even make them more tolerable. Some things I did differently. I unbolted my brake lines in order to make room for the axle mounted u-bolts and saddles. By doing this I was able to rotate the axle mounted bushings more towards the rear of the truck (higher on the axle tube). This helped to keep the outer arms of the sway bar more parallel to the frame. This did push the bar back some, however, the links are straight up and down in the stiffest setting (my frame mounted u-bolt ends both point directly towards the ground). My thought is the stiffest setting should be where everything lines up. When softening the ride, the increased angle of the links will only soften the ride even more. In effect, there will be more variation between the softest and the stiffest settings. Not a bad thing for a truck that never had a bar to begin with. In my opinion, it’s just about the best $225 I’ve spent on the truck’s suspension, right up there with my Bilstein 5100s in the front. It’s not perfect, and there are some quirks that Hellwig should clear up in the literature but so far it’s seems like a great investment.

The engine in my truck is burning oil since day one. No lack of maintenance. Oil change done way ahead of manufactures recommendation. It's simply bad engineering. Or a good one when it comes to meet the standards. Probably depends on which way you're looking at it. Another aspect is the way of the driving style. If I stay below 2,500 rpm, it's burning about 1 liter in 3,000 km (1,900-ish miles). When I'm towing or rev up the engine above 2,500 rpm, it'll go up to 2.5 liters. My take on it is that bad engineering and the driving style is what causes the engine to eat oil. More or less. And yes, I've owned other vehicles in the past. None of them were eating oil like the AFM engines I've had. In fact, it was none to zero oil consumption. '82 and '86 GMC van and truck, '87 Chevy van, '88 and '96 Buick regal 2.8 and 3.8 V6, '77 Jeep J10 401cui, European Ford cars , VW cars, Moskvich (Russian car) you name it. No noticeable oil consumption. Except for the '82 and '86 GMC van and truck and '87 Chevy van and the Jeep, the fuel mileage on the other cars listed was comparable to modern standards. I don't know why they can't built engines like that anymore. Or, why can European and Russian car makers build engines with a decent fuel mileage and no oil consumption? so long j-ten-ner

Here's my baby i just picked up Friday, shes at the Tint Shop, getting blacked out (LIMO) ... A few goodies at home waiting to get installed Short Antenna Blacked out lettering (Entire rear, Emblems and chevy wording) HID Turn signals HID Reverse lights Then off for XPEL on the hood and Carbon Fiber for the scoop, The RED in the Z71 will be blacked out also.

Truer words have never been spoken.

Replaced the "LT" badge with a Z71 badge to match the front.

I signed up for GM-Trucks.com, so I could post this topic about this cover. I'm normally not one to post much, but since I can't add reviews to BAKs website or any of the resellers without a review invite after purchase I have no way of getting this information to people looking to purchase this cover for a 2019 GMC Sierra. My truck is the 2019 Sierra Denali 1500, but this post will apply to the SLT, AT4, and Denali. BAK is currently selling this cover and packaging it for both the 2019 Silverado and Sierra. They should have two completely separate covers but are refusing to resolve the issue completely. I wrote up a huge product assessment/resolution document on the product and tried working with manufacturing on resolving the issue, but it was only partially fixed. The primary issue is the Silverado and Sierra have a 1/4" bed width difference at the tailgate. That is because of the multi-pro tailgate. BAK must have originally assumed they were both the same width. If you already purchased a cover check and see if your tailgate section of the cover (plastic bumper to plastic bumper) is 57" or 57 1/4". If your cover is 57" you have the non-adjusted cover and your plastic bumpers are probably not sitting into the metal rail lips correctly. After all my work with BAK they finally agreed the width was not the same and sent me a cover that increased the width at the tailgate by 1/4", but still sent it in the same box with Silverado/Sierra on the side. My guess is they are going to continue sending the same cover with the additional 1/4" added on and not really fixing the issue. Hopefully the extra 1/4" don't cause an issue for 2019 Silverado owners. The second part of the issue is the 2019 Sierra has a longer bed length than the Silverado, so the rear tailgate seal does not touch the tailgate. I don't think the seal will fit that well on the Silverado either after doing the measurements but didn't have a to physically test. You wouldn't know how well the seal was working unless you got into the bed and close the tailgate. I can open the multi-pro top section and see the seal wasn't close to touching. Also, the middle of the multi-pro tailgate will not close easily with the cover closed. BAK did nothing to address this issue when I brought it up. If you purchase this cover with the known issues when mounting the cover, you have to slide the covers bed rails back toward the tailgate as far as you can without it hitting the tailgate, in order for the cover to sit in the track rails correctly. Don't push them forward against the front part of the bed or the cover will not slot in the groove correctly. When building my resolution guide for BAK I shimmed my second replacement cover by ¼” total front to back (1/8" strip on each rail) and it allowed the cover to fit in the rails without any rail adjustments. I recommended to BAK to increase the total cover width by 1/4" front to back and they choose to only add the 1/4" by the tailgate. My assumption was they did this, so they didn't have to build two separate covers. I was very disappointed in all the effort I put into showing them the exact problems including all the measurements and them not resolving the problem 100%. This product should have never made it past quality control. The overall build of the product is very solid and I'm happy it's made in the USA, but the fitment is terrible. Even worse if you have the one at 57". Note1: Make sure your cover sits into the rails correctly and don’t stick over the ledge. The cover will still work if it sits over the small metal lip, but this will wear out the plastic bumpers and may not let the rubber seal work correctly. Note2: If you have the cover at 57" width at the tailgate I recommend you check and have BAK send you an updated cover or add 1/8" aluminum strips (can find at Menards) to each side of the rails. The aluminum strips work, but it puts the rubber water seal near the rear of the bed really close to the edge. It wasn't acceptable for me but does allow the cover to sit in the rails correctly. I attached the PDF document that I created for BAK with all my measurements and recommendations on resolving the issue if anyone wants to see more detail into why the cover isn't fitting. Feel free to use this PDF document if you have any issues with BAK about getting the cover replaced with warranty. 2019 GMC Sierra Revolver X4 Rolling (Fitment Issues).pdf

Working again

I don't even know what we're talking about here. MY bottom line is, it is bad engineering. It shouldn't matter if you're towing or not, IF the truck (like mine) is equipped with the tow package. And, IF the tow package is sufficient enough to handle the additional stress on the oil and cooling system. I guess what GM doesn't understand is that I'd be happy to pay a premium for an engine and/or additional systems which support towing and higher rpm. I'm willing to pay for the extra engineering necessary to achieve that, but I'm not willing to pay for a bigger touch screen and 25 cameras just to get a skid plate for the oil pan (you get my drift). so long j-ten-ner

I don't think you got the flapper valve clamp on there correct. The outer clamp should be on the knob not the inner spring. Also make sure you rotated the flapper knob the correct way. It should get harder as the spring compresses that is how you know it is rotated in the right direction. Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

I’m pretty happy with my beast. Sounds great and has gobs of power IMHO. So far, all I’ve done to it so far was add the BakFlip G2 tonneau. About $600 cheaper than the one from GM... Put 200 km on it the very first night...

Dude's grandpa was a mechanic. So he suddenly appears on out of left field with a grand total of 37 posts and automatically knows more than all of the rest of us on here put together. He can fix anything, mostly just by using the correct octane of Top Tier fuel, which the GM Owner's Manual says to do anyway. He must have absorbed all this magical all-powerful knowledge thru a$$-mosis--either he sat on his Owners Manual or had somebody read it to him. Guess we should all just give up, because he's got high-speed internet in his trailer and all day to post while the rest of us are at work. My grandpa said you can wrestle with a pig, buy why? The pig loves it, and you just get dirty. [Ending being withheld to respond to his inevitable wise-guy reply.]

Even though the seat swap is likely possible (it was on the K2s), you should really consider just buying a truck that already has the seating configuration you want. You may find that modifying the seats will end up costing more for a worse finish than if you just bought an SLT and added your own lift kit and tires. There are wires and harnesses that you may be missing, and holes in the carpet, its just not going to be as nice as a truck that was built that way. If I were you that's what I would look into first. Its generally easier to get everything you want up front than try to install OEM parts after the fact. But if you really want the AT4, you should look for a member named pgamboa who sells electrical parts for mods. He can probably tell you exactly how this would work.

You won’t notice much if any. I have the 5.3 and honestly haven’t noticed much loss like the old 6 speeds. I’m coming from a tuned 2015 duramax and I still like this truck. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Today's update...dealer called this morning. Their latest theory is that when they put the head back together after replacing the pushrod, lifters, and VLOM, the head gasket they used was faulty. They're going to try to put a new one in today to see if that fixes things. The mechanic was "95% sure" this would fix the problem, but then again, he was pretty sure about his original pushrod diagnosis. Also, they are working with Chevrolet to get me a rental that I can pull my travel trailer with for my upcoming vacation. The catch is that they'll only pay rental fees for a GM product, and while Enterprise has GM vehicles in their fleet, there isn't one available locally, so the probably won't pay...which is total bullshit. Getting soooooo tired of this...I like what 1SLOW1500 said, that they should just put in a new engine and take mine for failure analysis.

Honestly they should just swap the engine out and tag yours for gm inspection. I mean a engine swap is a few hours and good to go also gm will know it wasn't the mechanic. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

I had the dealer order them I paid $130. It’s a little more than what I found online but there was no shipping charge. The box they came in was giant. I installed myself.

Nothing big just painted the recovery hooks this weekend, should be getting new tires soon and ordering a motofab 1.5 leveling kit for the front

My local dealer was $150 ?. I found them on GM Parts website for $112 they wouldn’t price match but came down to $130. They order me the inner rear fender liners so I went ahead and for stickers also.

I added the vinyl over priced GM Stickers to my tailgate over the weekend. Looks good. I know I over paid but wanted them now lol.

I hear that, J-ten-ner. Seems automaker's main goal these days is making money, and keeping shareholders happy - customer service and quality control are annoyances to them. My truck is the exact same way with oil consumption. If I tow and let the cruise control scream to 4k or higher, I'll down a quart in 300 miles. If I shut cruise off on hills and just let the engine pull in its sweet spot, I can go 5-6k miles on a quart. Back when that first happened, everyone was telling me about the AFM bandaids that GM was throwing in all the warranty vehicles (splash shield, updated valve cover, etc.). No amount of those bandaids will fix this, since this is CLEARLY a piston ring issue. No ifs, ands, or buts about it, and oil analysis backed that up 100%. My '86 Mercury Grand Marquis, 33 years old, 262,000 miles, still running the OE engine, transmission, and rear differential ... and FUEL PUMP, & power steering pump, doesn't BURN ANY oil at all! It's been leaking out the rear main seal since we bought the car almost 17 years ago, but not a hint of smoke out the tailpipe, nor any evidence of oil usage on the plugs. Our '93 Volvo 940 with 183k on the clock burns NO oil - running the same Amsoil Signature Series 10w-30 oil. Has a slight leak out the rear main -nowhere near as bad as the Mercury.

So to make sure i do not have to repin the connector on my mirror? I want to make this install as smooth as possible lol thanks phil Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oh thank you for that post I was wondering. Seems like he installed it hump up. But he notes the clearance to the cover, exhaust, and tire. In his install it looks like it is way to close to the tire as the axle travel would make that sway bar hit the tire in my opinion. But again maybe the hump up is the issue. I have not tire so non issue. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Your killing me with all this. I was yes,.maybe, no, back to yes then hell no.....now yes.... It appears to my eyes there is a right and left on the bar ends. As when the bar is on the ground it looks like the center of the bar is bent up in the middle. This guy bents up the brake line but maybe better to just lift it to the upper hole in the brake cable bracket. Minimum amount of threads in the end links should be same as the thickness of a bolt say 1/4" with the lock nut jammed down. I understand just seeing a video is not the same as installing it but it seems to me there is some many ways this can mount with the adjustments in the axle mount and frame mount and end link length. First poster here was stock height, video stock height, your lifted, I'm lowered 5". So hard to say it it works for me. This guy had a good video for pictures. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Sooo.... What ive noticed is that when I roll up the cover, and relock it, the tailgate tends to stick the first few times i use the auto down feature. Eventually it works itsef out and goes down without any assistance from me. I havent had any problems putting the tailgate up with the cover already shut however.

No my grandpa was a heavy machinery mechanic as his day job..he made 100k/year (in todays dollars). even manufacturing his own tools.. ( When you could not find a store bought one) (and worked on his own cars/ Heavy duty trucks only)... So I know quite a bit more then you know about cars I also worked on my own car as well.. he had many cars since the 1940s at lest 3 dozen (had a hord of 12-15 at one time) You buy a tow rated filter (the larger version) which will filter longer... another issue is vaporization/evaporation of the oil which happens at higher oil temps.. since you are running 3-4,000 rpm for extended periods ... this will wear the oil faster then cursing on the highway at 1300rpm.. for every Half mile at 3-4k rpm = 1 city mile driven so 9600 miles oil change might have well been a 20,000 mile oil change Please save the shit about 18 wheelers going 15-20,000 miles/ oil change they have upwards of 7- 15 gals depending on the engine and a SUPER Sized filter If i wanted to tow something I'd rent a pickup from hertz .. it's only 29$ for the day(actual cost unlike u-haul chagrining 120$ for a day) good for burn outs etc. too or to have fun burning up the tires and clutch.. LOL! like i did on a trip from Los Angeles to phoenix and back in one day 950miles round trip in 10 hour(some load up time and breaks) it gets boring driving 110mph on the freeway.. my 6.0L was never used for towing.....2 previous owners that is why it still work good

So is the green bow staying, or no? ?

well you use it for towing and needs oil changed more often then 6000-9600 miles was it very black and thick? when it came out more like tar then oil? I know carbon starts to show up around 3000 miles Dirty oil is like sand in a river it wears away the rocks. as to the carbon in the oil wears away the seals and rings take a sand blaster to aluminum it will punch a hole pretty quickly that is what you do with dirty oil to the seals and rings etc.. clean water in a pipe will last 100 years.... you caused the damage..you should accept that... newer engines have tighter clearances then 70/80s stuff the newest engines use 0w16 oil

That's true of any engine .... but you're missing the point. In their quest to meet EPA regulations (better mileage / emissions), they cut corners on the entire AFM system, and valve train. Low tension piston rings were used to get the mileage they needed ... and in exchange they completely wore out at 50k miles - sometimes less, sometimes more. I bought my truck brand new. NOBODY has owned it but me since day 1. Forty miles on the clock. It's had a steady diet of top shelf synthetics since 2k miles. Started off with Royal Purple, then switched to Amsoil Signature Series at 40k miles - can't get any better oil than that. Most I've ever run that oil was 9,600 miles. The severe service interval on that oil is 15k miles - the additive package is robust enough to handle that without a problem. I sent my sample into Blackstone Labs, and had high levels of aluminum and iron (piston and rings). Second sample I changed much sooner, and had high levels of brass and iron (camshaft bearings and camshaft). I'm only at 97k now. Started using oil at 50k miles, and oil pressure started trending downwards at around 80k (along with the cam bearing pieces in the oil analysis). When I was a teenager up to my 30's, I abused the CRAP out of my cars and trucks from the 70's & 80's - some I never changed the oil in since they burned, leaked, or did both! NEVER had any sign of engine failure. Well over 200k, some well over 300k, and others we'll never know (maybe 400k to 500k). This truck might look, ride, stop and handle better than those vehicles, but it's a complete piece of shit in comparison. I won't even see 150k before I'll have to put an engine in this thing. Has NOTHING to do with maintenance - it's GM's quest to make money with a failing company.

No they burn oil because lack of maintenance.....7500 miles oil change is a JOKE. so unless you have a jumbo 1qt filter , Dirty oil fouls up the Seals and orings(WEAR and TEAR) as well as the lifter oil manifold assembly solenoid they required clean oil to work correctly..

They burn oil because GM cheaped out on parts. They're poorly designed pieces of shit, like most things in the 21st Century. Common knowledge. There's no explaining around this.

Dude, you're killing me! Stop with the B/S ... please.

What are these things 13:1 compression from the factory?

Finally got to snap a picture of the new truck. 19 LT Trailboss in Satin Steel. Had the dealer install some assist steps and a Rev Hard Rolling Cover. I Am Super Happy with this truck so far! Going Camping Next week, will try to get some better shots.

Now that looks like ass. Sorry, somebody had to say it.....

Just bought my TrailBoss yesterday, the dealership 1. Sprayed the Bed liner 2. Added the rear liner in the wheel well ( why isn’t this std I have no idea) 3. Bed cover installed however, the tailgate now won’t do down automatically.. Bed cover keeps catching it...(not happy about that). 4. Door sill swapped out to Silverado.

Had to wait 2+ months for this custom order (and still waiting for the performance package, running boards and all weather mats) but was well worth the wait!

My hub centric rings came in earlier this week and I was able to get my wheels installed today. Talk about a transformation. The old saying still rings true. "Wheels really do make a vehicle." Raceline Addict 942B Gloss Black 20x9 with +18 offset Extended black lug nuts. No spacers required as the spoke design clears the front brake caliper bump easily. Wheels and tires are also flush with the body. I used ZHTEAP 106mm to 78.1mm hub centric adapter rings and they fit perfectly. Wheels and lugs from www.customwheeloffset.com. Wheels drop shipped from Raceline and arrived quickly. Now on to Round 3. -Patrick-

Found this out after visiting the dunes this week. While filling up tires, the truck will honk at you when they are up to pressure. In my case, it was around 40 PSI. Pretty cool feature.

Rough Country pain in ass to install. Fit could be better RC grill dimensions are not a perfect match to the factory grill hole. Now I gotta fix up those paint chips.

Have you guys seen this? From NHTSA.gov using my VIN. Note the “remedy” in the second pic. Also, I have a 2018 Sierra, which was first sold in Canada and is now in the US. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Couldn’t agree more. If I knew something about this and felt for whatever reason I couldn’t tell others how to avoid this situation I would feel like a real POS just antagonizing everyone who has posted on here that has had to deal with this... guess that’s just me?

Old man winter returned yesterday. We had rain early in the day. Then the temp dropped and it turned to snow. We got pea sized hail 4 times. Thunder and lighting. Not complaining we need the moisture. Went to bed with about 2 inches and woke up to about 6-7. Still snowing lightly. 23 degrees. Looks like I'll be putting the plow back on the ATV and plowing.

I am one. And yes, we do assume there are enough complete morons out there to make this warning necessary. And no, we do not expect this message to make any actual difference in the behavior of said morons. But hey, we warned them!

WTF? I’ve been trying to answer your question and you go there?? Have a great day.

A tune and a catch can are on different sides of the world. A tune will allow the engine to exceed its specified operating parameters. A catch can is for preventive maintenance. I would have no ethical problem with removing my catch can for fear I'd be denied a warranty claim...which would never happen anyway.