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Decided to upgrade from the 2010. Debadged as soon as it hit the driveway & illuminated bowtie. Tint today, leather end of the week. And so it begins...

Installed those 2” dropshackles and used the 1.5” hole. Also did airbags to stop the porpoising I was experiencing while pulling a travel trailer at highway speeds over dips. I ride it 1/2” higher than flat with around 10lbs in the bags and around 20lbs with the trailer hooked up and loaded down.

.. color matched shark fin

I just finished installing the Hellwig 7735 rear sway bar and have some similar observations, along with some things that I did differently that seem to have helped. First, I share your frustration about how I expected it to fit and how it actually fit. In every possible scenario, I just don’t see any way that the rear most portion of the sway bar could be both perpendicular to the links and parallel to the frame with the links attached to the rear most mounting holes. Second, I agree that Hellwig really needs to modify their instructions. It’s not that they are poorly written, they really aren’t that bad. It’s that they need more pictures and the pictures need to be spread out throughout the pages of the manual to coincide with the steps. It gets really old, really quickly when you have to flip back and forth to the referenced picture for whichever step you’re in. Arrows certainly would be helpful too. Third, Hellwig needs to give specific parameters as to which mounting angles are acceptable and which are not. The minimum amount of threads inside of the link would also be useful. I think when they say things like “as vertical as they can be” it means different things to different people. Give me a range of what is acceptable. Also, if I have to choose between vertical links or a horizontal sway bar, which one should I choose? Split the difference? If acceptable tolerances were included, it wouldn’t make me feel so uneasy that things aren’t perfectly straight. Now, for the positive. So far, I love what it has done for the handling of my truck on the stiffest setting. I’ve only driven it for 20 minutes swerving around parking lots, over speed bumps and potholes but in that short time I was able to notice some clear benefits. Hard turns at low speed cause only the front outer corner to squat. I can clearly hear a difference in the tread noise and it’s obvious that the truck is planting the tires better. Reduced body roll is a welcomed benefit since swaying back and forth gets a bit tiring. Potholes still suck, but the don’t suck any more with the sway bar vs without. The reduced body roll may even make them more tolerable. Some things I did differently. I unbolted my brake lines in order to make room for the axle mounted u-bolts and saddles. By doing this I was able to rotate the axle mounted bushings more towards the rear of the truck (higher on the axle tube). This helped to keep the outer arms of the sway bar more parallel to the frame. This did push the bar back some, however, the links are straight up and down in the stiffest setting (my frame mounted u-bolt ends both point directly towards the ground). My thought is the stiffest setting should be where everything lines up. When softening the ride, the increased angle of the links will only soften the ride even more. In effect, there will be more variation between the softest and the stiffest settings. Not a bad thing for a truck that never had a bar to begin with. In my opinion, it’s just about the best $225 I’ve spent on the truck’s suspension, right up there with my Bilstein 5100s in the front. It’s not perfect, and there are some quirks that Hellwig should clear up in the literature but so far it’s seems like a great investment.

The engine in my truck is burning oil since day one. No lack of maintenance. Oil change done way ahead of manufactures recommendation. It's simply bad engineering. Or a good one when it comes to meet the standards. Probably depends on which way you're looking at it. Another aspect is the way of the driving style. If I stay below 2,500 rpm, it's burning about 1 liter in 3,000 km (1,900-ish miles). When I'm towing or rev up the engine above 2,500 rpm, it'll go up to 2.5 liters. My take on it is that bad engineering and the driving style is what causes the engine to eat oil. More or less. And yes, I've owned other vehicles in the past. None of them were eating oil like the AFM engines I've had. In fact, it was none to zero oil consumption. '82 and '86 GMC van and truck, '87 Chevy van, '88 and '96 Buick regal 2.8 and 3.8 V6, '77 Jeep J10 401cui, European Ford cars , VW cars, Moskvich (Russian car) you name it. No noticeable oil consumption. Except for the '82 and '86 GMC van and truck and '87 Chevy van and the Jeep, the fuel mileage on the other cars listed was comparable to modern standards. I don't know why they can't built engines like that anymore. Or, why can European and Russian car makers build engines with a decent fuel mileage and no oil consumption? so long j-ten-ner

Here's my baby i just picked up Friday, shes at the Tint Shop, getting blacked out (LIMO) ... A few goodies at home waiting to get installed Short Antenna Blacked out lettering (Entire rear, Emblems and chevy wording) HID Turn signals HID Reverse lights Then off for XPEL on the hood and Carbon Fiber for the scoop, The RED in the Z71 will be blacked out also.

Truer words have never been spoken.

Replaced the "LT" badge with a Z71 badge to match the front.

I signed up for GM-Trucks.com, so I could post this topic about this cover. I'm normally not one to post much, but since I can't add reviews to BAKs website or any of the resellers without a review invite after purchase I have no way of getting this information to people looking to purchase this cover for a 2019 GMC Sierra. My truck is the 2019 Sierra Denali 1500, but this post will apply to the SLT, AT4, and Denali. BAK is currently selling this cover and packaging it for both the 2019 Silverado and Sierra. They should have two completely separate covers but are refusing to resolve the issue completely. I wrote up a huge product assessment/resolution document on the product and tried working with manufacturing on resolving the issue, but it was only partially fixed. The primary issue is the Silverado and Sierra have a 1/4" bed width difference at the tailgate. That is because of the multi-pro tailgate. BAK must have originally assumed they were both the same width. If you already purchased a cover check and see if your tailgate section of the cover (plastic bumper to plastic bumper) is 57" or 57 1/4". If your cover is 57" you have the non-adjusted cover and your plastic bumpers are probably not sitting into the metal rail lips correctly. After all my work with BAK they finally agreed the width was not the same and sent me a cover that increased the width at the tailgate by 1/4", but still sent it in the same box with Silverado/Sierra on the side. My guess is they are going to continue sending the same cover with the additional 1/4" added on and not really fixing the issue. Hopefully the extra 1/4" don't cause an issue for 2019 Silverado owners. The second part of the issue is the 2019 Sierra has a longer bed length than the Silverado, so the rear tailgate seal does not touch the tailgate. I don't think the seal will fit that well on the Silverado either after doing the measurements but didn't have a to physically test. You wouldn't know how well the seal was working unless you got into the bed and close the tailgate. I can open the multi-pro top section and see the seal wasn't close to touching. Also, the middle of the multi-pro tailgate will not close easily with the cover closed. BAK did nothing to address this issue when I brought it up. If you purchase this cover with the known issues when mounting the cover, you have to slide the covers bed rails back toward the tailgate as far as you can without it hitting the tailgate, in order for the cover to sit in the track rails correctly. Don't push them forward against the front part of the bed or the cover will not slot in the groove correctly. When building my resolution guide for BAK I shimmed my second replacement cover by ¼” total front to back (1/8" strip on each rail) and it allowed the cover to fit in the rails without any rail adjustments. I recommended to BAK to increase the total cover width by 1/4" front to back and they choose to only add the 1/4" by the tailgate. My assumption was they did this, so they didn't have to build two separate covers. I was very disappointed in all the effort I put into showing them the exact problems including all the measurements and them not resolving the problem 100%. This product should have never made it past quality control. The overall build of the product is very solid and I'm happy it's made in the USA, but the fitment is terrible. Even worse if you have the one at 57". Note1: Make sure your cover sits into the rails correctly and don’t stick over the ledge. The cover will still work if it sits over the small metal lip, but this will wear out the plastic bumpers and may not let the rubber seal work correctly. Note2: If you have the cover at 57" width at the tailgate I recommend you check and have BAK send you an updated cover or add 1/8" aluminum strips (can find at Menards) to each side of the rails. The aluminum strips work, but it puts the rubber water seal near the rear of the bed really close to the edge. It wasn't acceptable for me but does allow the cover to sit in the rails correctly. I attached the PDF document that I created for BAK with all my measurements and recommendations on resolving the issue if anyone wants to see more detail into why the cover isn't fitting. Feel free to use this PDF document if you have any issues with BAK about getting the cover replaced with warranty. 2019 GMC Sierra Revolver X4 Rolling (Fitment Issues).pdf

Just some interesting reading if anyone is interested and you have high mileage on your AFM engine. An individual on bitog forum has a 2006 Envoy with the 5.3 and was using oil. Figured he would try Valvoline's oil that came out 3yrs ago to clean up Cummins OTR truck engines that had stuck ring issues. The oil was specifically engineered by Valvoline and Cummins for this issue. It is a very stout oil with PAO and Ester base. Anyway he has used the Valvoline Blue Restore and his oil consumption has gone down big time. You can read his post here.

I don't think you got the flapper valve clamp on there correct. The outer clamp should be on the knob not the inner spring. Also make sure you rotated the flapper knob the correct way. It should get harder as the spring compresses that is how you know it is rotated in the right direction. Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

In the 90s-2000s we did the extended in diesel and gas with Amsoil, we’re dealers. Never a problem. The modern engines to day I wouldn’t extend like back then. Not because the oil got worse they change the engines. In my 4cylinder Camry I have no problem with their extended oil changes or my 92 truck. DI or cylinder deactivation engines need more frequent oil changes. Turbo engines too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm past 100,000mls. It is gonna blow. Tomorrow. For sure. I know it. Shit! so long j-ten-ner

I’m pretty happy with my beast. Sounds great and has gobs of power IMHO. So far, all I’ve done to it so far was add the BakFlip G2 tonneau. About $600 cheaper than the one from GM... Put 200 km on it the very first night...

Dude's grandpa was a mechanic. So he suddenly appears on out of left field with a grand total of 37 posts and automatically knows more than all of the rest of us on here put together. He can fix anything, mostly just by using the correct octane of Top Tier fuel, which the GM Owner's Manual says to do anyway. He must have absorbed all this magical all-powerful knowledge thru a$$-mosis--either he sat on his Owners Manual or had somebody read it to him. Guess we should all just give up, because he's got high-speed internet in his trailer and all day to post while the rest of us are at work. My grandpa said you can wrestle with a pig, buy why? The pig loves it, and you just get dirty. [Ending being withheld to respond to his inevitable wise-guy reply.]

Well, I did end up getting it back last Friday. They cleared the errors by reprogramming the computer, bled the brakes twice and added new fluid again as stated before but the said they didn’t have to order or install a new module/sensor. When I got it back, it seems to be back to normal. I know they did some testing as they gave it back to me bone dry. Had to find the nearest Costco to fill in back up. Much cheaper for Premium there. ($1.229 vs $1.479 per litre at Shell) For the meantime, it seems to be holding.

Love the discussion. Don’t want to clog this thread too much. I thought this link was a good read about sway bars, how they work and what type of handling differences you’re likely to experience depending on your overall setup. Like everything else, there’s always compromises and the key is choosing the system that works best for you. I think the RAS system is really interesting too, thanks for sharing your experience. I had never heard of it before you posted about it. http://speed.academy/how-swaybars-work/ “Using anti-sway bars to reduce body roll, to maximize contact patch consistency of all four tires, and to adjust handling balance front-to-rear continues to be one of the simplest and most cost-effective ways to help you and your car carve faster corners. You won’t see as much of an improvement from upgrading sway bars as you would from an upgrade that includes adjustable shocks and stiffer springs, but if maintaining civilized street manners while giving your ride improved handling characteristics for under $500 is your goal, you simply can’t beat a high-quality pair of adjustable anti-sway bars from a company with years of experience in the suspension tuning department like Eibach, Whiteline or KW.”

Well isn't that a B17ch!!! I was specific in my email also about it being for the New Gen 2019 and even used the specific assigned part number that the have advertised for both the 2019 Silverado and Sierra. Don't understand why GM doesn't leave it up to us to void our own damn warranty......

Update to my post on June 24th regarding the terrible performance of my 10,000 mile 2017 Canyon 3.6L 8 speed shudder/shake/vibrate issue. Under warranty the dealer replaced the trans fluid with a new revised type/brand of fluid. They said they also did some reprogramming. WOW, what a change. The truck runs and shifts great now. It's like a totally different (much better) truck. Lots more power, quicker downshifts, no shudder or vibrating. It runs and shifts perfectly. According to the dealer repair invoice they: Performed DOC # 5181942 Shudder During Light Throttle Acceleration Perform Diagnostic Testing and Fluid Exchange Labor OP Code 8480818 1.4 Part Number Description Qty. 19417577 Fluid 20

My local dealer was $150 ?. I found them on GM Parts website for $112 they wouldn’t price match but came down to $130. They order me the inner rear fender liners so I went ahead and for stickers also.

I added the vinyl over priced GM Stickers to my tailgate over the weekend. Looks good. I know I over paid but wanted them now lol.

I hear that, J-ten-ner. Seems automaker's main goal these days is making money, and keeping shareholders happy - customer service and quality control are annoyances to them. My truck is the exact same way with oil consumption. If I tow and let the cruise control scream to 4k or higher, I'll down a quart in 300 miles. If I shut cruise off on hills and just let the engine pull in its sweet spot, I can go 5-6k miles on a quart. Back when that first happened, everyone was telling me about the AFM bandaids that GM was throwing in all the warranty vehicles (splash shield, updated valve cover, etc.). No amount of those bandaids will fix this, since this is CLEARLY a piston ring issue. No ifs, ands, or buts about it, and oil analysis backed that up 100%. My '86 Mercury Grand Marquis, 33 years old, 262,000 miles, still running the OE engine, transmission, and rear differential ... and FUEL PUMP, & power steering pump, doesn't BURN ANY oil at all! It's been leaking out the rear main seal since we bought the car almost 17 years ago, but not a hint of smoke out the tailpipe, nor any evidence of oil usage on the plugs. Our '93 Volvo 940 with 183k on the clock burns NO oil - running the same Amsoil Signature Series 10w-30 oil. Has a slight leak out the rear main -nowhere near as bad as the Mercury.

So to make sure i do not have to repin the connector on my mirror? I want to make this install as smooth as possible lol thanks phil Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

2018 LTZ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Your killing me with all this. I was yes,.maybe, no, back to yes then hell no.....now yes.... It appears to my eyes there is a right and left on the bar ends. As when the bar is on the ground it looks like the center of the bar is bent up in the middle. This guy bents up the brake line but maybe better to just lift it to the upper hole in the brake cable bracket. Minimum amount of threads in the end links should be same as the thickness of a bolt say 1/4" with the lock nut jammed down. I understand just seeing a video is not the same as installing it but it seems to me there is some many ways this can mount with the adjustments in the axle mount and frame mount and end link length. First poster here was stock height, video stock height, your lifted, I'm lowered 5". So hard to say it it works for me. This guy had a good video for pictures. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

I bought the trail ridge tow mirrors and im about to put in an order for phils harness But i noticed my tow mirror has the blue wire”marking lamps” not in the connector and says i should hardwire it, but if i use phils harness i dont need to so my question is where do i connect this blue wire into? The instructions from them arent good Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No my grandpa was a heavy machinery mechanic as his day job..he made 100k/year (in todays dollars). even manufacturing his own tools.. ( When you could not find a store bought one) (and worked on his own cars/ Heavy duty trucks only)... So I know quite a bit more then you know about cars I also worked on my own car as well.. he had many cars since the 1940s at lest 3 dozen (had a hord of 12-15 at one time) You buy a tow rated filter (the larger version) which will filter longer... another issue is vaporization/evaporation of the oil which happens at higher oil temps.. since you are running 3-4,000 rpm for extended periods ... this will wear the oil faster then cursing on the highway at 1300rpm.. for every Half mile at 3-4k rpm = 1 city mile driven so 9600 miles oil change might have well been a 20,000 mile oil change Please save the shit about 18 wheelers going 15-20,000 miles/ oil change they have upwards of 7- 15 gals depending on the engine and a SUPER Sized filter If i wanted to tow something I'd rent a pickup from hertz .. it's only 29$ for the day(actual cost unlike u-haul chagrining 120$ for a day) good for burn outs etc. too or to have fun burning up the tires and clutch.. LOL! like i did on a trip from Los Angeles to phoenix and back in one day 950miles round trip in 10 hour(some load up time and breaks) it gets boring driving 110mph on the freeway.. my 6.0L was never used for towing.....2 previous owners that is why it still work good

For the flapper valve yes you need a rectangular piece of metal between the two clamps to hold the flapper open. Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

It's pretty clear you haven't the slightest clue about engines. Nothing I did to that truck caused the problems it has. So by your statement, tighter tolerances mean you have to maintain them more? You're about 180° off on that one there ... better get some education on these subjects before you dig yourself deeper into the hole you're in. It's very entertaining, though .... so feel free to educate me. I've only been working on cars since I could hold a wrench without dad's assistance. Towing / hauling ... isn't that what people buy trucks for? Tow? Haul things? Why would be buy trucks that can't handle these tasks? 0w-16 was chosen for FUEL MILEAGE, NOT engine longevity. Wait until those engines get some miles on them. You think things are bad now, just wait! Actually, you're probably not even aware of how bad things are. Engine replacements in modern cars are about as common as tune ups were back in the day.

So is the green bow staying, or no? ?

well you use it for towing and needs oil changed more often then 6000-9600 miles was it very black and thick? when it came out more like tar then oil? I know carbon starts to show up around 3000 miles Dirty oil is like sand in a river it wears away the rocks. as to the carbon in the oil wears away the seals and rings take a sand blaster to aluminum it will punch a hole pretty quickly that is what you do with dirty oil to the seals and rings etc.. clean water in a pipe will last 100 years.... you caused the damage..you should accept that... newer engines have tighter clearances then 70/80s stuff the newest engines use 0w16 oil

That's true of any engine .... but you're missing the point. In their quest to meet EPA regulations (better mileage / emissions), they cut corners on the entire AFM system, and valve train. Low tension piston rings were used to get the mileage they needed ... and in exchange they completely wore out at 50k miles - sometimes less, sometimes more. I bought my truck brand new. NOBODY has owned it but me since day 1. Forty miles on the clock. It's had a steady diet of top shelf synthetics since 2k miles. Started off with Royal Purple, then switched to Amsoil Signature Series at 40k miles - can't get any better oil than that. Most I've ever run that oil was 9,600 miles. The severe service interval on that oil is 15k miles - the additive package is robust enough to handle that without a problem. I sent my sample into Blackstone Labs, and had high levels of aluminum and iron (piston and rings). Second sample I changed much sooner, and had high levels of brass and iron (camshaft bearings and camshaft). I'm only at 97k now. Started using oil at 50k miles, and oil pressure started trending downwards at around 80k (along with the cam bearing pieces in the oil analysis). When I was a teenager up to my 30's, I abused the CRAP out of my cars and trucks from the 70's & 80's - some I never changed the oil in since they burned, leaked, or did both! NEVER had any sign of engine failure. Well over 200k, some well over 300k, and others we'll never know (maybe 400k to 500k). This truck might look, ride, stop and handle better than those vehicles, but it's a complete piece of shit in comparison. I won't even see 150k before I'll have to put an engine in this thing. Has NOTHING to do with maintenance - it's GM's quest to make money with a failing company.

They burn oil because GM cheaped out on parts. They're poorly designed pieces of shit, like most things in the 21st Century. Common knowledge. There's no explaining around this.

yeah that is why you burn oil they did not change it enough and used 87 oct and broke your AFM Yes even on a NA v8 there will be some power gains (esp if it's flex fuel compatible version) My engine Does Not Burn Oil 3300 miles so far , ZERO Consumption No SLUDGE.... period 89,900 miles

Dude, you're killing me! Stop with the B/S ... please.

garbage gas garbage results..... correct... shell has garbage gas= garbage results v-power = very powerless engine

Brought my LT TB home on Friday. So Far, got to install some small parts. Short Antenna, Under Seat Storage Bin, Bed Caps, and a Rev Hard Rolling Cover (From the dealer). Will be dropping the car off for tints on my next day off, and have wheels and tires on the way!

2016 4wd, added motofab 1.5". I have parts to add 1" in rear, gonna hold off on that for now. Will wait and see what it looks like when I start towing a little more often. Will keep stock tires a little longer, then race with 275/60/20 Cooper all terrains. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

I disagree that solves nothing. Keep upgrading fuse or go right to a paperclip. Paperclip is perfect amp fuse. And then the truck will start to smell and release smoke signal to let you know where to find problem. No you may need to replace more parts. But that's just a opportunity to improve on gm engineer stupid work. Oh and please post a video for use to watch. Thank you. [emoji2957] Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Now that looks like ass. Sorry, somebody had to say it.....

Just bought my TrailBoss yesterday, the dealership 1. Sprayed the Bed liner 2. Added the rear liner in the wheel well ( why isn’t this std I have no idea) 3. Bed cover installed however, the tailgate now won’t do down automatically.. Bed cover keeps catching it...(not happy about that). 4. Door sill swapped out to Silverado.

New BDS lift......

Rough Country pain in ass to install. Fit could be better RC grill dimensions are not a perfect match to the factory grill hole. Now I gotta fix up those paint chips.

Have you guys seen this? From NHTSA.gov using my VIN. Note the “remedy” in the second pic. Also, I have a 2018 Sierra, which was first sold in Canada and is now in the US. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Anyone else this crazy? Added Bose emblems to the rear doors to match the factory ones in front. It kinda bugged me how bland the back door panels were. Figured it was a little thing I could do to help. The emblems are cheap on eBay and are the same part from the K2s. Unfortunately the speaker grill holes are “fake” and not all the way through. So I cut the posts on back of the badges down to little nubs that still locate the emblem level. Then I measured to sort of match the front, made a little template and hot-glued them on. Evening boredom solved.

This is my 2018 GMC Sierra Regular Cab 4x4 Fully Loaded. Bunch of modifications. Came a long way from stock... shes truly a beauty. Haha

Couldn’t agree more. If I knew something about this and felt for whatever reason I couldn’t tell others how to avoid this situation I would feel like a real POS just antagonizing everyone who has posted on here that has had to deal with this... guess that’s just me?

I am one. And yes, we do assume there are enough complete morons out there to make this warning necessary. And no, we do not expect this message to make any actual difference in the behavior of said morons. But hey, we warned them!