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Ok. Here are a couple of shots at an intersection Lows Only Lows and LEDs Sent from my SM-N960U1 using Tapatalk

Wind mills decimate bird populations and renders useless enormous tracts of land but do gooders won't talk about that. I laugh seeing these carbon stats now with car reviews, could care less. That is not true with the adherents of the religion of environmentalism. Sinners like me are to be scorned and punished while they are lauded for driving their Prius and caring more than I do about their "woke" agenda. Never forget that this is a political movement, not conservation. Because one of the goals of communism is to make art ugly and offensive! LOL Mostly tannin in the water, with a dash of Italian mobsters who got out of line!

Some place I see electric cars being useful is suburban travel. I live 15 miles from the nearest town and would find this transport effective for these short hauls. Take the majority of wear and tear out of the Silverado/Buick. But a working truck...yea....don't think so. Long haul vehicle. Nope. What has kept me from buying something like the Chevy Bolt is the fact that this ugly little coffin box cost more than my Buick LaCrosse. I can buy two Honda Civics for that price and drive them longer than I will live. Hoop jumps for tax credits and rebates. Someone riddle me this. Why are the practical electrics such UGLY cars. Is it cheaper to make an UGLY car/truck?

All you have done is shifted from one kind of pollution to another and then taken a victory lap. Bravo.

Already ahead of you. Another set of shots. Lows only High Beam Only Lows and LEDs High Beams and LEDs Sent from my SM-N960U1 using Tapatalk

Alright, I know everyone wants to know what these lights put out. Here is a photo of just the LEDs running with no other lights on. You can see that the lights produce a flood pattern that fills in nicely. The spread is much taller than I expected. There isn't much throw on these lights so don't get them for that. They are stronger than the low beams but don't reach out far enough for high beam replacements. I would have loved if this light was a combo pattern. Floods on the edges and throws down the middle. Sent from my SM-N960U1 using Tapatalk

Also, how much coal and or natural gas is used to make all those little sparky guys what go in yonder battery?

The thing that I don't understand is that being from a cold climate area they tell us that during the supper hours to not turn on stoves, dryers, dishwashers etc or it may cause a brown out. How in the hell are we going to have streets of electric cars and trucks plugged in. At least currently (sorry Bad pun) we don't have the infrastructure to support electrics. Just what we need is more ugly wind mills and power towers running all over the damn place!

Well I got mine installed. They look like they are from the factory the. Way they fit. Took about 2 hours to knock out. It's crazy how simple it is to get the grill off of this truck. 10 push clips, 4 bolts, and it pops right off. Need to wait until tonight to see how much light they put out. Sent from my SM-N960U1 using Tapatalk

2019 Trailboss 1 1/2 motofab level 305 55 20 BFG AT on factory 20's 1 1/2 wheel spacers

Bout as clean as she‘ll gets anymore this year. Constant rain, leaves, dust, and before too long, salt...

Ryan B.

Sat in the pass side seat for about 3 hours today [emoji15] let my wife drive home. 18mpg running 70-79 on the highway. Gotta love wifi [emoji16] Ryan B.

So its ok to take a crap on the sidewalk, but not to drive a vehicle with an IC engine. Cool got it.

Our last camping trip of the year. Tows great. Did around 200 miles round trip mostly interstate at 70-75mph, averaged 11mpg, running at mostly 22-2500rpm, 3-3200rpm on the bigger hills. I am happy with the way this truck tows, and overall just happy with it.

Maybe in about 100 years when we’re long gone sadly [emoji20] Sent from Above

Yes trans issues. Best way to get a good life cycle out of they is regular trans fluid change and reset adaptive tables after that. On the 6l80e find a local good used trans with super low miles and swap it. Labor is 700-1000 2wd or 4wd. So net a killer deal and be under 2k, core on a trans is $$$. Make sure your converter is good or you will burn another trans. The tune is set for lots of slip and is one of the issues other is the stock converter. Gm did have issues with them and replaced them. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

The only problem I have with an electric vehicle is that there is nothing right now comparable to my Tahoe. If GM made the Tahoe, Yukon or Escalade electric with 400 mile range I would consider it. But we all know it’s not going to happen in the near future. And the price tag would be astronomical. I only commute 8 miles each way and my office has free electric charging so it would make sense to get an electric vehicle but I travel with the family a lot in the summer and over breaks. This summer I drove 7k miles just for vacations and had to haul all this stuff. Don’t think it would fit in an electric vehicle. Maybe a model 3. I don’t know. But what I do know is I like to be high driving down the road. Traveling up and down I95 trucks are everywhere. Just my .02 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

A Usable Comparison Three primary elements wear elements. These are the raw data results from both Dyson and Blackstone divided by the OCI intervals. Universal Averages are from the Blackstone Library for the GM Gen V 4.3 V-6 motor only. This is how Blackstone evaluates samples from differing OCI's. The Super Tech 5W20 is their Full Synthetic. The Red Line HP is also synthetic. Both Dyson and Blackstone make note that bearing materials for this motor are naturally high. In fact the unweighted numbers from Copper for the Red Line and the UA were identical 25 ppm results. The UA number was on a slightly higher OCI interval. 5K v 6.7K. The Super Tech numbers were on 7.5K OCI's. Ergo chart results are ppm per 1,000 miles. Raw data in previous posts. This is just interesting. Lowest wear in Fahrenheit converts to be about 175 F to 230 F. Knowing that lowest thermal oxidation rates are under 200 F and the need to keep the oil over 185 F for at least an hour to drive off moister narrows the useful value to sweat spot.

I’d “ONLY” buy one if it looked like this or similar: with everything my truck offers and more. Sent from Above

That’s just because they’re insecure and need a pat on the back for buying something that not accepted within society. Believe me, I’m around it all the time. I Knowingly offend tree huggers all the time and believe me, they need us much more than we need them. So, with that said, I’d wave at them and make sure they hear me well when I say “yeah, good luck with that”! Sent from Above

I had a similar issue with my wife's 2015 Silverado. We checked the items listed in this TSB https://testing-public.carmd.com/Tsb/Download/112155/4318397 I found that the ground under the passenger side dash was the problem. Its super easy to access with a screw driver and a 10MM socket. Once under the dash i accessed the ground studs by removing the tweeters on both sides. In my case I could clearly see that the ground wire had rubber stuck on it and was likely the culprit so don't forget to clean all ground contacts!!! terminals and studs. Problem solved. Good luck with yours if this is your issue.

Easiest way to confirm is send an Email to customer service.. [email protected] ..requesting RPO code for your vehicle, among other things it will show what engine was installed and fuel requirements, e.g. mine was L84 V8 DFM E15 capable.

I magnetized my torx driver when I did this job.

you guys have a lot of oil loss . i have a 17 Camaro LT1 and had a 12 Camaro LS3 both have elite catch cans. at 8000-10000 miles the can wouldn't be half full and id only lose maybe half qt. intake still has oil in it even though the can was put on befor my cleaned and ported intake.

2019 RTZ 4x4 Havana Brown Metallic.

Installed AMP PowerSteps. Got them from the Amazon Warehouse, damaged packaging, for $1,100 and free shipping.

They've come a long way in a couple of generations of 5.3....

2018 LT Z71 CC [emoji1786] waiting for these tires to wear down so I can get me some A/T. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Those people don’t care about that. All they see is their car produces zero emissions and they are better than everyone else. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Lithium Ion battery production is good for the environment? LOL Talk about toxic waste.

I'm not saying there isn't some merit, but right now its vapor ware.

And?

I finally got this thing to the track last night. Ran a best of 12.81 @106. Here's a video of a 12.89@106 with a 1.7 60".

Or swapped with someone that wants one!

I'm sure that Greta Thunberg has all the answers. Someone will eventually invent the flux-compensator and all is good. so long j-ten-ner

They’re Continental TerrainContact A/T in my stock size. P275/55R20. It’s Continentals “newer” and only A/T tire. But they’ve been out for a couple years now. I’ve Read a ton of reviews and people seem to like them. I wanted an A/T tire that wasn’t crazy aggressive but was still good in the snow. I’m like 80/20 on Pavement and in the northeast so a lot of snow. So far I love em. Smooth, they balanced great and nice and quiet. But WAY better rubber than the pos OEM wrangler SRA’s they ship these with. But yes, All season A/T tire. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

.. started mocking up an OBA compressor system for my air bags.. will be placing it in the spare battery hole.. GM decided to make removing the battery tray a PITA with a tab underneath both the fuse box and the washer bottle.. to make future removal of the battery tray easy the small tab that fits against the washer bottle needs to be bent up then the tray can be easily lifted out.

Camping up at Vogel State Park in Blairsville, Georgia last weekend.

Took the wheels to get powder coated Monday and got them back today and mounted. [emoji1786][emoji1786][emoji1786] Before: After: Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My guess is that there are far more 5.3's so that's why you would see more?

I’ve owned 2009 6.2 which I replaced with a 2014 5.3... never again, honestly horrible power and towing. I tow max weights. Now have 2016 6.2 8 speed Yukon denali and 2019 6.2 max tow Sierra. Will never drive a 5.3 again. Also the 6.2 mpg was better than the 2014 5.3 6 speed. Best $2-3k option you’ll ever spend. As far as reliability, never touched the 5.3 in 125,000km. 2016 6.2 had collapsed lifters which ruined the cam at 25,000km. However fixed in 3 days all on warranty and good as new. Like it never happened. Bad luck? Could it happen to the 5.3? I don’t know.

Actually, there's about a 1000 reasons. If what you said is true, things like loctite, special lock washers, safety wire and locking nuts wouldn't exist. Rear shock bolts on pickups are especially susceptible to backing out, or getting loose, even when correctly torqued. The best fix is to use additional methods to secure them.

Why not? Suppose the sleeve inside the shock mount bushing tends to compress or wear just enough that the tension on the bolt is reduced? What if there's some super funky harmonic that develops in that particular location that backs the bolt out? Maybe, since the bolt is not shouldered, it's fully threaded, that the interaction between it and the inside of the sleeve creates a dynamic that loosens the bolt (you can see the marks of the threads inside the sleeve in the photo). Maybe a combination of all of those factors? Danged if I know. Are you telling me that you've never, ever, in your whole life, ever had a properly torqued fastener back off? Like, ever? I sure have..... And, somehow I doubt that a TTY bolt is used on a shock mount...... Anyway, here's the deal: as I said earlier, take it for what it's worth. I'm just passing along my anecdotal experiences FYI. Readers of the thread can check the bolt on their truck, they can even back it out and put some locktite on it just in case, it's easy to do. Or not. It's a lot easier in the driveway to find and check the bolt than it is on Black Bear Pass. YMMV....

I still collect every gallon and mile and note aberrations and events, cause and effect for obvious events. It's a lot of data and visually it becomes busy. Intermediate and long term averages tell a more complete story. I've chosen to plot multiples of 9 then add life time and the cumulative averages to paint a more complete picture. I also cut the chart in half. That is we are looking at the data for the 18 and 27 period trends starting 1/1/2018. A continuation of the 9 period plus life average and cumulative are from the beginning of the record (8/2016). The center of that would be the current central tendency or average. A look at the 9 tank average if full of information. Seasonal swing primary and it is huge. The line shows that I drive allot more miles in the warmer months than the winter. It shows current trending and impact of single tank aberrations. Such as major services where the shop lets idle for an hour during a transmission service or unusual service like becoming the daily driver when the shuttle car is down for an extended period. It smooths out tank to tank filling station pumping deviations. Equipment failures such as the multiple water thermostat failures (Jet Equipment). Error bar of the 9 tank average shows current central tendency. The center of that would be the current average. 18 period average of the tank over tank smooths that data more dampening single events to show a more general seasonal trend. 27 period average of the 18 period average. Ever fingerprint a camshaft? Such a line shows rates of change. For a cam this would be not the lift per degree but the difference in lift per degree per degree. Hope that makes sense. A momentum line if you will. LIfe time Average is what it means. All miles / all gallons. Running Average is the addition of the current tank to all previous tanks. Interesting line. Shows the progress or lack of over time. However without looking at the shorter trends one may believe something was wrong, for example, at mid line where it took a dip when if fact that dip was the result of a major seasonal swing shown in the 9 and 18 period averages. So no problem. I'm going to add more thoughts to this post soon. ******************************************************************************************************** Winter Fuel: EPA sources say there is a 1.5% difference between winter and summer fuels BTU content. So...a few tenths of a mpg. Not a major player. Fuel Source: Gasoline is a chemically defined and Federally controlled chemical that must conform to the ASTM D-86 distillation curve and meet the Reid Vapor Pressure standard by season and region. Regardless of the refinery it is distilled at it is the same range of hydrocarbons and has the same heating value. Not a major player. Any difference comes in the additive package but must meet the Federal minimums. Sort of like 2% milk is 2% milk regardless of the cow it is milked from. Ethanol Percentage: Now this does have an impact. E-10 will net roughly a 3-4% lower fuel economy. E-15 nets 4 to 5% less. So a 17 mpg truck could get around 0.5 mpg better mileage on E-0 v E10 but a 30 mpg truck might get 1.5 mpg better on E-0 V E-15. It takes several tanks after a switch to realize the full impact of a ethanol percentage change. More so if you do as I do and fill at half a tank. Charting that impact might take a summers worth of data. As can be seen from years worth of data mileage is affected but much bigger hammers and over time changes with wear and condition to a point that until a time and season have passed you have no idea what your looking at until it is long in the rear view mirror. This chart shows a 27% swing from first winter to this summer but only a 6% change in Running average while year over year it has averaged a 3% increase for every 10,000 mile driven. Conclusion: When I hear people say I got 2 mpg better mileage switching from Shell to COSTCO or my mileage tanked because of winter blend or any other such non-data driven hot air I am humored. When they want to argue about it......well......

When I think of catastrophic failure, I think of a rod hanging out the side of the block.

1” motofab lift fuel vandal 20x9 +1 Ridge Grappler 305/55R20 Bracket mod behind mud flap, no rub.

285.45.22 on KMC wheels

Fuel Rebel 20x10 -18 Offset No spacers Nitto Ridge Grappler 295/55/20 Factory Trailboss Suspension Slight Rub on mudflap on full lock.