Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Went last night and met up with a guy halfway between Minot ND and Bismarck ND to buy a set of factory 20s. Great shape and I got a great deal I think. They only have 8k miles and I picked them up for $850. Then I took the truck and wheels in this am to get the wheel balanced on the inside and had them put on. Man oh man it really changes the look and I feel it improve my ride quality. 20140423_122105_zpsopyyqlah.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Went last night and met up with a guy halfway between Minot ND and Bismarck ND to buy a set of factory 20s. Great shape and I got a great deal I think. They only have 8k miles and I picked them up for $850. Then I took the truck and wheels in this am to get the wheel balanced on the inside and had them put on. Man oh man it really changes the look and I feel it improve my ride quality. 20140423_122105_zpsopyyqlah.jpg

looks good. Rant incoming:

Bismark has some of the worst designed shopping/parking areas I have ever seen. I was in two different ones when I was there and both stretched for blocks but only had entrances or exits at the bookend intersections. You literaly had to drive through blocks of parking lot to leave or get to a resturant, while being a on the other side of a 4 inch curb from the main road the entire time. I guess many people there do badly with turning into traffic?

Edited by SnakeEyes
Posted

Yes the parking down there is the worst. And I'm telling you I don't think any North Dakota people can drive normal. No offense to any of you out there.

Posted

He lives in OK, he's used to it. I can say many people in Tulsa and OKC are some of the least attentive drivers, driving some of the biggest heaps on the road.

Posted

Got rid of the exhaust rattle today, tomorrow and Friday plan on pulling the AAL and decrank my tbars. Also me and my buddy built a little something for the race on saturday for tailgating. I'll take a pic of it tom.

 

Sent while drinkin' a cold one...

Posted

Got rid of the exhaust rattle today, tomorrow and Friday plan on pulling the AAL and decrank my tbars. Also me and my buddy built a little something for the race on saturday for tailgating. I'll take a pic of it tom.

 

Sent while drinkin' a cold one...

Does this mean 37s are out now?

 

Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk

Posted

Does this mean 37s are out now?

 

Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk

not necessarily. I'm not losing but an inch or so. Won't look too much different but let's hope it will ride a lot nicer

 

Sent while drinkin' a cold one...

Posted

not necessarily. I'm not losing but an inch or so. Won't look too much different but let's hope it will ride a lot nicer

 

Sent while drinkin' a cold one...

I've thought about putting my stock block back in and cranking down to but I like the way it sits to much. I'd prefer it to have to lean if I changed anything

 

Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

He lives in OK, he's used to it. I can say many people in Tulsa and OKC are some of the least attentive drivers, driving some of the biggest heaps on the road.

Iv been in over 36 states and the worst drivers I've seen outside OK are Arkansas and New Mexico.

Edited by SnakeEyes
Posted

I'll vouch for arkansas having bad drivers

 

Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I have the same running boards on my truck and I do agree they are bulky. I also find myself stepping over them when getting in and out of the truck. Besides providing protection to the rocker panels, they aren't very useful.  I will be replacing them soon with the Amp Powersteps. 
    • Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...