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Posted

Is there anything you can do for the 6.0 that is non-AFM?

 

 

Sorry, this works in conjunction with the factory AFM hardware.

 

Sounds interesting ... is there any ill affects from it staying in 4cyl mode longer ?

 

 

Nope. We've ran a lot of real world miles and tested on Dyno for hours with no ill effects. In addition, all of the stock factory fail-safes and safety protocols remain in place.

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Posted

Welcome! Sounds interesting. I often wondered if some programming could be done to change the AFM parameters.

 

The best programing to do is to "delete" it.

 

When I purchased my 2013 Yukon Denali (6.2L) the LAST thing on my mind was "fuel economy".

 

If you want "fuel economy", go out and purchase a "Toyota Scrotum" or some other piece of junk.

 

JMHO

Posted

But wouldn't this device also mean less power all the time as well?

I know most of us here have the pesky AFM tuned out and have seen better MPG's with it disabled.

 

Looks like AutoAnything lists the product at $199.99.

Posted

I was always told the reason it doesnt stay in 4 mode is due to cylinder heat and I believe the longest they have it programed for is 7 minutes I think if you can keep it in 4 mode that long under stock settings, it all has to do with cylinder expansion. I think keeping it in 4 mode longer then whats called for could mean ill effects in the long run on the motor due to uneven cylinder heating.

Posted

But wouldn't this device also mean less power all the time as well?

I know most of us here have the pesky AFM tuned out and have seen better MPG's with it disabled.

Looks like AutoAnything lists the product at $199.99.

 

 

Nope. It is only active at low load conditions. Step into the throttle and it pops into v8.

 

I was always told the reason it doesnt stay in 4 mode is due to cylinder heat and I believe the longest they have it programed for is 7 minutes I think if you can keep it in 4 mode that long under stock settings, it all has to do with cylinder expansion. I think keeping it in 4 mode longer then whats called for could mean ill effects in the long run on the motor due to uneven cylinder heating.

 

 

We don't override the stock safety systems for these types of things. The key is that on the over all average we enable V4 a lot more. The thermal balancing still takes place (it only takes 30 seconds or so in v8 mode ).

 

We don't reprogram anything in the stock ECU. We are a stand alone controller that monitors ECT, engine load, throttle position, MAP, spark, etc. and the AFM hardware status and work with the stock strategy to extend the AFM operation.

 

So, If most of us doing regular driving and gettining 16-17 mpg, what can we expect to see if we install the Range?

 

 

On average, you will see between 7 and 10% gain. The determining factors will be your driving style and conditions. We had a limo driver company that was seeing 11-13% on two vehicles (stretched Suburbans with the 5.3). But they did a lot of low speed steady cruising (which is ideal). We did a LOT of Simulink on-vehicle modeling and chassis Dyno testing to verify things (with a five gas analyzer) before we turned it loose in the "wild" for real world results.

 

Check out http://www.rangetechnology.com and there's more data (especially look at FAQs and the Support Site link at the bottom of the pages).

Posted

Does it make any difference if the truck is tuned or not?

Posted

Does it very based on the fuel used at all? Will 87 run as good as 93, i heard if i ran 93 my truck would stay in v4 longer. Any truth to that?

 

Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk 2

 

 

Posted

Does it make any difference if the truck is tuned or not?

 

 

It shouldn't make any difference as long as the tune isn't over aggressive.

 

Does it very based on the fuel used at all? Will 87 run as good as 93, i heard if i ran 93 my truck would stay in v4 longer. Any truth to that?

Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk 2

 

 

Actually there is some truth to that. One of the criteria to dropping out of v4 is detonation (which the Ecu will retard the timing for). Higher octane fuel allows for more timing under load without detonation and v4 mode is definitely very load sensitive.

Posted

If you ran 93 octane fuel and are NOT tuned for it, you will actually be wasting money. Without the proper timing advance 91-93 octane fuel will not help with performance. Read around the "Performance Engine Tuning" section, it's explained over there.

Posted

In general, thats true, especially in economics at the pump. In the context of the v4 stuff , the higher octane can help with keeping the timing up in v4, which helps with efficiency. Take a log with HPTuners or DashBoss and you can definitely see this all in real time.. If the fuel octane is too low for the load range, you'll get retarded timing and and it's especially sensitive in v4 mode. Altitude, alcohol content, air density, etc. can all affect where the timing map adaptation ends up. Problem with this is that higher octane = higher $ at the pump and the benefits may not offset the cost, especially in the small effect on v4 performance.

 

 

Posted

Being top teir gas around me is 3.08 reg and 3.48 Prem, to fill a 21 gallon tank would be an 8 dollar difference. I'll keep to my premium.

Posted

Drove my pile 760 miles last weekend hauling a trailer and 2 ATVs down the interstate(doing 75). Got a whopping 11 mpg there and back. I do have 275/70-18 E range BFGs though. I am not really complaining. Any extra mpg would be great though.

 

 

How fast did you go? If over 70 MPH, your mileage is normal. Remember, it is not always the total weight of the trailer that will kill your mileage, but air resistance. Was it windy that day? Some time ago I pulled an empty single axle U Haul open trailer with a raised near solid talgate, in strong winds. The tailgate acted as a sail and cut my mileage down to 12 MPG at 75 MPH.

Posted

If you ran 93 octane fuel and are NOT tuned for it, you will actually be wasting money. Without the proper timing advance 91-93 octane fuel will not help with performance. Read around the "Performance Engine Tuning" section, it's explained over there.

 

 

 

I am not sure you are right. What you said is very true of old vehicles with distributor and fixed ignition timing. However, modern trucks like these have ignition timing advanced by the engine ECU and they have a knock sensor which enables more timing advance with higher octane gas. I would definitely recommend 93 octane for hauling or pulling heavy loads. I am not sure how much using higher octane helps for everyday driving when the truck is not loaded, but it is worth experimenting with to see if the mileage does not improve.

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