Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Thanks guys. I didnt want to do after market rims, I liked the 20" I had. However once I did the fender flares it needed a better offset.

 

What size wheels and offsets did you go with?

Posted

I have the stage 5 Icon set up and I absolutely love it. Rides stiffer than stock on the softest setting and gets rid of the floaty feel of the stock suspension, especially the front. To me it's how a truck should ride and come from the factory. I've only towed 3000-4000# so far but had no issues at all. You can only get about 3" max height out of the Icon set up. My fronts are maxed out but I wish I could go a tad higher. If you want 4" then like others have suggested I am sure the BDS 4" with Fox coilovers would be a nice set up as well.

 

My set up below.

 

29059973734_5b5d09fb6f_k.jpgDSC00343 by Chris Minshall, on Flickr

What is the difference between the icon stage 3 and stage 5?

Posted

Thanks guys. I didnt want to do after market rims, I liked the 20" I had. However once I did the fender flares it needed a better offset.

I assume that offset moved your tires outboard slightly? would spacers not have worked? curious as I would like to do the same with the stock wheels not sure if id keep my 18's or go to stock gmc 20's. I love the look of the stock wheels. Whats your plans for your 20's?

 

j

Posted

I currently average 17-18 mpg in a '16 5.3L 6 speed with 3.42s, and have a shop lined up to install a zone 4.5" lift and 33s. What sort of mpg should I expect from it after? 14-15?

Yup somewhere around there. But I usually average 15-17 mpg with a BDS 4" and 35's. But for you it will depend a lot on the tires also. If you're running e rated 10 ply tires those are like 80 pounds per so your mpg will suffer more. But on a level and 305/55r20's slightly bigger than 33's which were 10 ply I averaged 19-20 mpg. There's a lot of factors lol

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Yup somewhere around there. But I usually average 15-17 mpg with a BDS 4" and 35's. But for you it will depend a lot on the tires also. If you're running e rated 10 ply tires those are like 80 pounds per so your mpg will suffer more. But on a level and 305/55r20's slightly bigger than 33's which were 10 ply I averaged 19-20 mpg. There's a lot of factors lol

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Like he said there's a lot of factors to consider. My 6.2L with 6" and 35's gets around 10-12mpg in town and 16-17mpg highway.

 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Posted

What is the difference between the icon stage 3 and stage 5?

Stage 5 adds reservoirs up front and CDCV 10 way adjustable damping on all 4 corners.

Posted

Zone 6.5 inch, 20 inch fuel Maverick and 35 inch trail grapplers

 

Sent from my SM-G903W using Tapatalk

 

Very nice. The more I see trucks like yours the more I think I should go with a 6-6.5" lift and 35's vs the 4.5 and 33's like I was planning. Do you know the overall height of your truck?

Posted

 

Very nice. The more I see trucks like yours the more I think I should go with a 6-6.5" lift and 35's vs the 4.5 and 33's like I was planning. Do you know the overall height of your truck?

You can fit 35's on the zone or BDS 4-4.5" lifts just FYI. No rubbing it trimming with the right offset (i.e. Not super negative) his truck is a very nice looking set up tho. But you only need the 6"+ lifts if you want the extra height. Not necessary for tire clearance.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

You can fit 35's on the zone or BDS 4-4.5" lifts just FYI. No rubbing it trimming with the right offset (i.e. Not super negative) his truck is a very nice looking set up tho. But you only need the 6"+ lifts if you want the extra height. Not necessary for tire clearance.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I am running stock 20s with zone 4.5. Will 35s fit with the stock offset?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,915
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ChristopherDobson
    Newest Member
    ChristopherDobson
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,208 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
    • yes, leaking exhaust will mess up o2 sensor readings, which in turn messes up fuel trims.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...