First Oil Change

[mzodarg]

 

AMSOIL also has a 0w-20 oil that you can use in the new 2014 vehicles.

 

Here is some info on it for applications.

 

APPLICATIONS

 

AMSOIL OE Synthetic Motor Oil is excellent for use in all

types of gasoline-fueled vehicles. It is recommended for

all domestic and foreign vehicles requiring any of the listed

performance specifications:

0W-20 (OEZ)

• API SN (Resource Conserving), SM...
• ILSAC GF-5, GF-4...
• GM dexos1™ (supersedes 6094M)
• Chrysler MS-6395

In my other life (Hardcore Biker trash) amsoil or scamsoil as it's referred to is not an oil I would use to lube the hinges on my front door.

 

Don't believe me, Google "Amsoil and engine failure"

[Badass69]

Meh.... I use Scamsoil and run close to 15000 miles on my 6 liter in my 05. Sorry... its still here and still spotless inside with no consumption at 130k miles.

 

Go ahead and change your Mobil one crap at 3000 or 4000 miles... its about all its good for lol. J/k. Not really as Mobil is good oil too.

 

I change at 500 miles max initial for all the metal you get on break in. After that... as long as I can go.

 

This tight tolerance stuff makes me laugh... been hearing that more and more since the inception of the LS. The thin oil is for fuel economy requirements... nothing else. Pull apart some GM late model engines and tell me how tight and perfect they are... lol. I used to run 0w40 synthetic in my old 86 6.2 diesel against some old timers advice. Funny... ran it all year round and had zero oil consumption when I sold it at just under 300000 miles on it.

 

Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk

[txab]

In my other life (Hardcore Biker trash) amsoil or scamsoil as it's referred to is not an oil I would use to lube the hinges on my front door.

 

Don't believe me, Google "Amsoil and engine failure"

 

 

You can get similar results inserting any oil's name into the search string. Amsoil is good product.

[Ron.s]

Yea I couldn't remember if it was 0W-20W or 0W-30W. I know Wal-Mart doesn't have it. It sucks because they are way way cheaper than Pep Boys or Advance. Wal-Mart has 5W-30W which is Dexos certified though..

 

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

A lot of Walmart stores carry the Mobile One 0-20 Syn in 5 Qt an 1 Qt.....the 5 qt is a deal at less than $25.

[Black02Silverado]

In my other life (Hardcore Biker trash) amsoil or scamsoil as it's referred to is not an oil I would use to lube the hinges on my front door.

 

Don't believe me, Google "Amsoil and engine failure"

 

Like txab stated, you can put any lubricant and engine failure into a search engine and you will get all kinds of results.

 

What I find the most is that when ever there is an issue, most blame the lubricant. They never want to investigate the failure to the point to actually find what caused it. We live in a point the finger society. Keeps the attorney's employed.

[svtkidd23]

Amsoil is excellent oil... Just saw a oil test the other day and penzoil ultra was the best oil you could buy at autozone or advanced auto.. I used to use Mobil next I'm getting penzoil

[Jimmy W]

8.5 quarts!!I changed mine after 1000 miles and filled with Amsoil,Plan on changing every 5000 miles

[nards444]

My thing is this. Change the oil regularly and to oil within spec. If you wish to go above and beyond it doesn't hurt but how much it helps is debatable.

 

You have figure if Gm is saying to wait till the monitor says 20% or at least 5-7k and they don't reccomend a certain brand that's a pretty good bet. You have to digital GM is warranting these vehicles to 100k, leasing them which means they get them back and will ultimately take a lot of them back on trade. Which means they want these engines to stay healthy and wouldn't be saying things that could cost them money.

 

Some of you are talking diesels which is irrelevant here and some say I've been doing this forever with no problems. Thing is I've never heard of anybody blowing the engine on manufacture reccomendations. In the end there is lots of time and money wasted on oil changes.

[Ron.s]

I look and the bottle didn't say Dexos @ Autozone...

Check the GM site all or most Mobile 1 oils are Dexos1 approved...0-20, 0-30, 5-30 etc.

[Ron.s]

As far as oil change intervals, I agree with the others that said go with the GM guideline. The metal shavings are really an Urban Legend dating back to older engines before manufacturing tolerances became precise and internal parts are now made of far superior components. 10000 mile intervals have been around for at least 5 years, I think the BMW may have been one of the first. I .have a 2010 Lexus SUV using Mobile 1 0-20 with over 53000 miles. Following Lexus guidelines-oil changes at 9-10000 miles and only about 1/2 quart low. These new engines may start to rival diesels for longevity. Granted trucks towing are under more duress but GM has tested these engines big time so I'm going with their intervals.

[Badass69]

As far as oil change intervals, I agree with the others that said go with the GM guideline. The metal shavings are really an Urban Legend dating back to older engines before manufacturing tolerances became precise and internal parts are now made of far superior components. 10000 mile intervals have been around for at least 5 years, I think the BMW may have been one of the first. I .have a 2010 Lexus SUV using Mobile 1 0-20 with over 53000 miles. Following Lexus guidelines-oil changes at 9-10000 miles and only about 1/2 quart low. These new engines may start to rival diesels for longevity. Granted trucks towing are under more duress but GM has tested these engines big time so I'm going with their intervals.

 

Put a magnet on your oil filter on a brand new 2014 GM truck with whatever engine in it and take a look at the inside of the filter in the first 1000 miles. Metal shavings are a myth...... really, you honestly think that. None of you guys saying this stuff have had an engine apart obviously especially something relatively new. Yes they are built better than 50 years ago. Roller cams, roller rockers, coated pistons made from better material allowing tighter piston to wall, etc. That said they still get metal particulate in the oil that is far more pronounced in the first few hundred miles of an engines life. Its how a ring gets a seal in a cylinder... it seats itself against the cylinder wall. This will put metal in the oil no matter how you look at it. Wall finish is better..... torque plate honing helps ensure a straighter bore with the head torqued on.... but it's still a ring seal. Engines will naturally have metal in the oil throughout the life of them but it is a greatly reduced amount than initial break in. Now it is true it is less as you don't have a set of lifters breaking in on cam lobes like a flat tappet engine but still.

 

Until they make rings out of something other than metal you will get metal in the oil when they seat. It's life.

 

The only thing I agree on is intervals. I do once a year on a lower mile use stuff or every 15000 miles on my other truck. Oil comes out still decent looking with a good healthy analysis. Changing it more often however is by no means detrimental, just un-necessary.

[Ron.s]

 

Put a magnet on your oil filter on a brand new 2014 GM truck with whatever engine in it and take a look at the inside of the filter in the first 1000 miles. Metal shavings are a myth...... really, you honestly think that. None of you guys saying this stuff have had an engine apart obviously especially something relatively new. Yes they are built better than 50 years ago. Roller cams, roller rockers, coated pistons made from better material allowing tighter piston to wall, etc. That said they still get metal particulate in the oil that is far more pronounced in the first few hundred miles of an engines life. Its how a ring gets a seal in a cylinder... it seats itself against the cylinder wall. This will put metal in the oil no matter how you look at it. Wall finish is better..... torque plate honing helps ensure a straighter bore with the head torqued on.... but it's still a ring seal. Engines will naturally have metal in the oil throughout the life of them but it is a greatly reduced amount than initial break in. Now it is true it is less as you don't have a set of lifters breaking in on cam lobes like a flat tappet engine but still.

 

Until they make rings out of something other than metal you will get metal in the oil when they seat. It's life.

 

The only thing I agree on is intervals. I do once a year on a lower mile use stuff or every 15000 miles on my other truck. Oil comes out still decent looking with a good healthy analysis. Changing it more often however is by no means detrimental, just un-necessary.

Trying to be brief I didn't mean to imply that there is no metal...just that the old days of so much wear that you needed an oil change at first 1000 miles as some stated. Engines and the components with a 100,000 mile warranty, 100,000 mile service interval aren't getting a lot of wear. The oil filters primary function is to remove foreign particles including metal. The Urban Legend is that if you don't change your oil at 1000 miles on a new vehicle then metal shavings will damage your engine. That's not happening that I can find documented anywhere. GM, Toyota, Daimler, etc test for millions of miles so that would seem to make them the best source of factual info. Maybe the oil co's second. Sorry if my post gave the wrong impression.

[GMC-AT]

These new 5.3 engines will go 250k miles all day long regardless what type of oil you use. The worst oil today is probably still better than the best oil 15 years ago. All you gotta do is change it every six or seven thousand miles and you'll be fine.

[nards444]

Not saying there isn't any metal either. Just saying the days of 3k oil changes and using top shelf oil is very uneeded

[steveved]

 

Put a magnet on your oil filter on a brand new 2014 GM truck with whatever engine in it and take a look at the inside of the filter in the first 1000 miles. Metal shavings are a myth...... really, you honestly think that. None of you guys saying this stuff have had an engine apart obviously especially something relatively new. Yes they are built better than 50 years ago. Roller cams, roller rockers, coated pistons made from better material allowing tighter piston to wall, etc. That said they still get metal particulate in the oil that is far more pronounced in the first few hundred miles of an engines life. Its how a ring gets a seal in a cylinder... it seats itself against the cylinder wall. This will put metal in the oil no matter how you look at it. Wall finish is better..... torque plate honing helps ensure a straighter bore with the head torqued on.... but it's still a ring seal. Engines will naturally have metal in the oil throughout the life of them but it is a greatly reduced amount than initial break in. Now it is true it is less as you don't have a set of lifters breaking in on cam lobes like a flat tappet engine but still.

 

Until they make rings out of something other than metal you will get metal in the oil when they seat. It's life.

 

The only thing I agree on is intervals. I do once a year on a lower mile use stuff or every 15000 miles on my other truck. Oil comes out still decent looking with a good healthy analysis. Changing it more often however is by no means detrimental, just un-necessary.

I know this is an old thread, but I feel the need to add something here. I have a 2013 Chevy Camaro 2SS with the 1LE track pack. While I have never seen metal particles in the engine oil, I changed my differential fluid at 5k and DID find some metal shavings in it. After taking it to VIR for an HPDE event in April of 2014, I changed the diff fluid again at 7800 miles (because the owners manual suggests changing the engine oil AND diff fluid after every track event) and found no more metal.

 

So, while the engine probably doesn't produce any metal shavings during the break in process, the diff sure as hell does. I am now at 11,000 on my camaro and have changed the diff fluid 3 times. The only time I found metal shavings was the first time.

 

So, I do plan to change out my 2014 Silverado's front and rear diff fluid at 5k just to be safe. New diff fluid is cheap insurance. And, even though I have a warrantee on my new truck... I really don't want their service department working on my truck. I am funny like that.