Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Well I'm through all 66 pages of this thread.

 

RC 2.5 seems right for me with 295 55 20's.

 

Any chance that the 2.5 will end up nose high?

Edited by Scott14
Posted

I still love the look....however I can't get better then 17 mpgs now. I live in Arizona. ....everything is flat and open so you get my point.dd54ec5eae83ce27594debb105f3c8e9.jpg

 

 

81f9c16c914b1a158593d02eea06ff3b.jpg

 

05641f6a77b77f5e3217c497a76dbc8a.jpg

Posted

When I measured my wheel well from ground up...I got just shy of 38" in rear and in the front I was just shy of 36". So I went with the RC 2" level kit. I have it installed and love it, But visually I thought front looked higher. So I measured today, and again got just shy of 38" in rear, however now the front is a little more than 38". Appears that my 2" was a little more than 2". Although the total difference is 1/4", visually its driving me crazy. So...what can I put in the rear that's maybe 1/2" or less?

Mine measures just under 40 on the front n rear after level kit. I have the z71 package. Is is also with 295/55/20 Toyo MT tires..... 4215de46a9cfba9986c9d80318fce38b.jpg524b71ffb017d076de3bee22a21aeae2.jpg
Posted

Here is a picture with my oem 18s and the level kit. f8c32f37a3d25280c2e2857561a80542.jpg

Looks good !

 

 

Sent from my iPhone 6 using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

Mine measures just under 40 on the front n rear after level kit. I have the z71 package. Is is also with 295/55/20 Toyo MT tires..... 4215de46a9cfba9986c9d80318fce38b.jpg524b71ffb017d076de3bee22a21aeae2.jpg

What lift is on the truck in the background of that pic?

Posted

I'm about to buy this CCM 3" level. Any Pro's or Con's with this kit?

CCM071500_01__73974.1388099106.1280.1280

That's same lift I installed. I like the look but my cv angle is really bad. I going remove the the 3" and install a 2.5". I my tying to post pics of the cv angle the tech at the shop advised me to go with 2.5" to ease up the angle. post-135776-0-07331900-1415835007_thumb.jpg

post-135776-0-07331900-1415835007_thumb.jpg

post-135776-0-07331900-1415835007_thumb.jpg

post-135776-0-07331900-1415835007_thumb.jpg

Posted

Just had my 2" RC level kit installed. It had been sitting under my rear seat for almost as long as I've had the truck. I had install and alignment done at the performance shop that built/maintained my last car. Install was pretty quick, but guys got stumped by the Hunter software telling them that the pinned insert was not supposed to be reused. The result is that I'm left with slightly out of spec caster on my left front wheel (Printout below). They are eager to get me perfectly dialed in but didn't want to take any chances, shop deals mostly in highe end euro, but i trust them.

 

Can anyone shed some light on this "pin system" shown in the Hunter software?

 

AlignmentSpecs

Rack

Options

Posted (edited)

I need a little help guys I'm torn between the two.

 

1st option is 1.5" readylift, remove the rear block and run a 285/55/20 Nitto Terra Grappler G2 tires.

 

2nd option is 2.25" readylift and a 33x12.50x20 Toyo Open Country RT tires.

 

20141112_164434_zpsy56ondte.jpg

Edited by never_rested_24-7
Posted

I need a little help guys I'm torn between the two.

 

1st option is 1.5" readylift, remove the rear block and run a 285/55/20 Nitto Terra Grappler G2 tires.

 

2nd option is 2.25" readylift and a 33x12.50x20 Toyo Open Country RT tires.

 

20141112_164434_zpsy56ondte.jpg

Option 2. These trucks look great leveled with 33s.

 

I would do a level and33s but it's just not tall enough for me personally with my truck

Posted (edited)

If you go cheap you're gonna have problems. Sure a spacer kit gets the job done but you will have upper ball joint issues. Its best to get a kit that has corrective UCAs.

Edited by 12amrdr

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I gotta say, I'm enjoying your narration. The troubles you've been having are amusing as you describe them. It's good to see that you're finally getting some satisfaction out the old beast though.
    • Declaring victory would upset the demons that possess this Blazer, so I won't. But I did make progress today--after it put up a fight. Always a fight.   I had the day off so I spent the morning cleaning up the shop and I thought I'd get ahead of things by filling the cooling system in prep for the final part I needed to arrive: the driver's side knock sensor. Glug, glug, glug....and then the unmistakable sound of liquid hitting the shop floor. It induces the same chagrin when the sonar and targeting laser temporarily malfunction during a late night bladder evacuation over the toilet with the bathroom light off. D'OH!!! That made a mess...   Oh, hey, that knock sensor I removed? It threads into a wet port. Who knew?! Learn something new every day. Put a pin in that chore, I'll fill it the rest of the way later.   The knock sensor arrived at about 1pm. I threaded it in, connected the wire, filled up the coolant, checked for leaks, and... drumroll.... fingers crossed for a perfect start, excellent timing, model fuel trims, and ...no squeaks... Here goes.....   No, it didn't start. At all. I cranked it a few times and it wasn't sounding good. Furthermore, I heard leaking again. Jesus H Tapdancing Christ, stop leaking all over the dang floor. This time I had accidentally overfilled the coolant reservoir and the churn of the water pump via cranking caused a bit to burp out. Ok, just, breathe... Put the flamethrower down. Dang thing wouldn't burn anyway, leaks too much...   Did you know the rotation of a round crank sensor in a round hole, matters? I do now. Took me about half hour to retrace steps and realize what I had done. Then it started right up.   No squeaks. The squeak was the old balancer.   Once it entered closed loop, fuel trims are dead on, hovering right around zero at idle. No more -30%. I'll credit the injector rebuild on that one.   Timing? I think there's an OBD 1.5 translation error with my Actron scanner. It's anywhere from -20 to -30 at idle, sometimes as high as -40 cruising. Sorry, the engine just isn't running that smoothly at -40 degrees ignition advance. It's just not. It's smooth all through the rev range and has decent power. I'm going to have to trust the seat of my pants on this one.   The new exhaust is very quiet. The old catalytic converter? Not melted, but definitely not healthy. Rains glitter when you turn it on its end...all the precious metal is flaking out. Once the new exhaust system burned in/smoked off a bit, the engine's exhaust smell is normal again. Not that I'd recommend going around huffing car exhaust, but, you know what I mean?   One problem to correct. The new exhaust has the opposite problem of the old spliced up exhaust. It wants to hit the floor where the old one wanted to rest on the cross member. Happy medium, please? Still noodling on that one, need to look at how I can adjust some hangers.   I don't know what's next. On one hand I want to run away from this thing as far and as fast as I can -- there have been a lot of NOT fun moments. On the other, now that it kinda drives nice, maybe drive it around for a little bit?   Shhh... it's not currently dripping oil all over the floor. I can see just a little wet at the bottom of the timing cover where it meets the oil pan seal. It's not dripping multiple drops with every ignition cycle, in fact, after some driving this evening it has yet to even form a drop that could drip off yet. But the weekend is young... I fully expect this could turn into Exxon Valdez by Sunday. Because this Blazer hates me. LOL.      
    • About that:   Once upon a time in a land far far away lived a car company that was shy about taking your money and wanted to be sure that they gave you more that you asked for so that you'd come back. No really, not a fairytale. 😱   But after the field got thinned out enough to limit the competition it seemed good enough to give you only what you asked for. Fair enough I say but in such a market you have to give something the others are not or they go to the one who does. Gimmicks or glitz. Oh, fins and chrome. Yea, shinny crow like cars. Yum.    Field narrows a bit more and 'brand loyalty' becomes a thing and the minute it does they start thinking to themselves, "Could we make more money if we gave them less than they expect and they will hang in there for brand and comfort with the known?" They gave it a try and da*n, it worked!!    Well, what if we teach them, groom them into believing that less is "Normal" and cut some more corners. Will that work? Oh heck yea!    🤔 I wonder, can we give then WAY less than they expect and make them mad enough to spit nails and STILL get them to pay up? Sure, if we get everyone else to do the same so that the choice is less or nothing at all. How would be do that? Platform sharing.  What a concept, right?  Steal like there is no tomorrow and it's legal too!    Truth is no one is going to give up driving, not for very long. The Gen Z crowd is fine with it and will be as long as someone not Gen Z will haul them around. At some point we all die.    Economic voting only works if you cast a NO vote now and again and enough of them to get dumb and dumber to wise up. Well, that's how I was taught anyway. And it should have worked. Would have worked. But the Bail out!!   Look, you have another choice if  you take that bag off your head. If the dumb it down to some predetermined expectation of how John Q Public will use it the, that is under design it to failure they you use it to a lower stress mode. D'ho!    A 1950 Royal Enfield Bullet 500 will go anywhere a Suzuki Hayabusa will and for just as long. But you will have to treat it for what it is and not for what you wish it was. 
    • Maybe I was just too unlucky, but I had nothing but bad luck with Bridgestones. Out of 3 sets, they all started losing a lot of air when they got down to about 1/2 tread life, and at that point also wet traction suffered more than it should have. Also, the only tire I ever had in my 60 years of driving that had a side wall blow out was a Bridgestone.   I'm currently running Goodyear Wrangler Workhorse AT and am very happy with them.   
    • maybe when the trip is over, check all the other joints in the front end, like all the ball joints, tie rods, pitman & idler arms, etc...
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...