Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

If doing a body lift, I'd do the Zone 1.5 instead of RC 1.25 I installed my own and if I'm going to that trouble, I'm definitely getting the extra .25 inch.

Posted

Has anyone tried using both methods to lift the front of their truck? The c style block under the shock and the spacer above the strut? I don't want to waste the money on both if it won't work. Thanks in advance!

Posted

That's what the RC 2.5 kit is.

 

 

Has anyone tried using both methods to lift the front of their truck? The c style block under the shock and the spacer above the strut? I don't want to waste the money on both if it won't work. Thanks in advance!

Posted (edited)

TGC 2.5" leveling kit and new Nitto G2s 275/65r20 with no rubbing. Tires look so much better than the stockers.b1a06cc0c7bf65a012c2d255bff3a209.jpg

Edited by Kander41
  • Like 2
Posted

Has anyone tried using both methods to lift the front of their truck? The c style block under the shock and the spacer above the strut? I don't want to waste the money on both if it won't work. Thanks in advance!

Yes, I did. I put the 1.5" top spacer on first and it wasn't enough to make the truck level so I added another 1" bottom spacer. Works fine, no issues.

Posted

TGC 2.5" leveling kit and new Nitto G2s 275/65r20 with no rubbing. Tires look so much better than the stockers.b1a06cc0c7bf65a012c2d255bff3a209.jpg

You think the Terra Grappler G2 would fit but in a 295/60/20?

Posted (edited)

You think the Terra Grappler G2 would fit but in a 295/60/20?

Yeah I think it's possible. The actual height will actually be less on the truck and the width may push it closer to the fender liner which can be pulled back.

 

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

Edited by Kander41
Posted

Has anybody done the RC 2.5" leveling kit and put on 275/65r20's. The rim will have a +12 offset.

I have a 14 Crew 4x4 with RC 2.5" level/lift and running Cooper Discoverer's 275 R60 20" on stock wheels (2013 LTZ wheels).crew2.jpg

Posted

I have a 14 Crew 4x4 with RC 2.5" level/lift and running Cooper Discoverer's 275 R60 20" on stock wheels (2013 LTZ wheels).crew2.jpg

That size is a full inch smaller than the 275/65. Do you think that you would have enough room for a bigger size?
Posted

OK Guys, Need opinions here...

15 Silverado 1500 crew 4x4 no Z71 with 6.2 & max tow pkg, with 2.5 RC leveling kit & 1.5 body lift.

What offset do I need to run BFG KO LT305/65/R18s on Raceline 901C 18x9s?

Tires are 33.5" tall & 12" wide

Thanks!

Posted (edited)

Don't see a 295/55 Cooper STT Pro on their site?

How tall & wide are they?

Edited by MR.HAPPY

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,897
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ncleg
    Newest Member
    ncleg
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 843 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I have a Retrax pro that I first had on my 2020 chevy and transferred it to my current GMC.  It stays in the garage most of the time, so hard for me to judge it's long term weather resistance.  It still works perfectly, been very durable.  It doesn't see oil patch usage, but it's not a mall queen.  It keeps most things mostly dry (small leaks) and the security of it is enough to slow someone down but not keep them out for long.  I would buy one again, it works for me.     
    • Thanks to the convenience of Amazon, I was able to get a few things done to the truck today.  I installed Carquest Premium oil and air filters with five quarts of Mobil1 High Mileage 10-30 along with a quart of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 I already had.  The latch for the flip up center console lid was broken so I replaced it along with the power mirror switch.  I found my push retainer assortment this morning and reattached the plastic under the bumper and it was only held on with a few screws and retainers.  Then I programmed a new remote keyless entry fob so I can lock my dog in the truck when I take her out with me (I've got to keep the air going for her since it's been in the 100s).  Finally, I ordered some LED interior bulbs and replaced the reading lamps.  The front lights are working fine while one of the back lights only works intermittently and the other not at all.   While under the truck, I found the source of at least one of the noises: the sway bar links need replacing.  I ordered a set of Suspension Dudes links with Code Red bushings.  Never heard of them, but they're made in the USA and have decent reviews.  While making yet another Amazon order, I went ahead and added a set of front tow hooks.  I went with red, since that's the color of the sway bar link and bushings and it should look decent enough on a black and chrome truck.  Speaking of which, it doesn't bug me much, but the passenger side mirror has a chrome cap while the driver side doesn't, so eventually I'll make them match one way or another.  Oh, and I ordered a $20 TPMS reset tool.  No idea if it will do anything for my sensors but it was cheap and will work for the Ford Transit Connect as well.     For tradition's sake, I ordered a new oil change wrench.  I kept the Snap-On 9/16"x15mm GM wrench I bought when I was 18 in the 2006 GMC from the time I bought that truck until the truck was lost.  While I was tempted, there's no need to spend $80 for a new SO wrench, or even $50 with shipping for a used one on Ebay.  I just bought a Duratech 15mm extra-long ratcheting wrench to do the job as needed.  It works, and if I like that wrench enough, I'll buy the set.  
    • The recall is for exactly this issue - those drain holes combined with the limited environmental capability of the tailgate electronics card inside the tailgate were a problem. The “safety issue” was the potential for the tailgate to spontaneously open, but all kinds of tailgate misbehavior can occur from water contamination of that control card.    There is no real fix yet. The initial recall just disabled the tailgate. Later, when parts became available, they would replace bad parts with new parts of the same bad design. My dealer is going nuts because the few times I let them get their hands on my truck, my tailgate is off due to a slide-in camper installation. They really want to cut my tailgate wires, but I won’t give them the chance. I will let them get their dirty hands on it when a real fix (redesign) is available.  My tailgate, which works just fine with sealant plugging the drain holes, will remain safe in a dry storage crate until then.  
    • Yes your absolutely right, I been looking at the 4 inch BDS one and it acutely states you can use the stock 20’s just not the 17’s or 18’s, I also didn’t realize that with my 275/60r20 stock wheels I’m already running 33 inch diameter wheel setup lol so I can just run my stock wheels and tires atleast to start.
    • I would expect that to be lift-kit dependent.  If the kit has interference issues w stock wheels, then the kit/manufacturer should indicate that somewhere.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...