Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

 

The Nitto G2 285/75r18 is almost a 35" tire! I don't think I have come across anyone running that size with a level. Do you have any pictures of your truck with that tire on it?

Here are some pics. Sorry for the poor quality, they're all I have right now.

With BFGs 305/65r18 and 2" level

With BFGs 305/65r18 and 2" level

with NItto G2s 285/75r18, 2" level + Bilstein 1.75"

Texas City

truck 5

 

  • Like 1
Posted

 

Here are some pics. Sorry for the poor quality, they're all I have right now.

 

Thanks for posting some more pictures. I don't plan on going to a 35" tire like your Nittos, but those 305/65r18 BFGs look killer . I also like how your truck looks "stock but lifted" rather than rims and a bunch of add-ons/mods that kinda mess up the nice clean OEM look.

 

KO or KO2? I assume KO because they were OWL. I don't know if there is any difference in size between the two models of tires. The 305/65/r18 comes in at 33.5 x 12 which I assume is a little smaller once mounted. You are saying that you had them on for awhile and did some off roading and didn't have any contact with the swaybar or trim any inner liner? If I went that size, I think I would have to stay with BFG as I think Nittos run a little fatter and the Toyo Open Country AT2 doesn't come in that size.

Posted

Just ordered the Rough Country 2" level kit, we should hopefully be installing it next week with a bunch of other parts I have to go on

Posted

 

Thanks for posting some more pictures. I don't plan on going to a 35" tire like your Nittos, but those 305/65r18 BFGs look killer . I also like how your truck looks "stock but lifted" rather than rims and a bunch of add-ons/mods that kinda mess up the nice clean OEM look.

 

KO or KO2? I assume KO because they were OWL. I don't know if there is any difference in size between the two models of tires. The 305/65/r18 comes in at 33.5 x 12 which I assume is a little smaller once mounted. You are saying that you had them on for awhile and did some off roading and didn't have any contact with the swaybar or trim any inner liner? If I went that size, I think I would have to stay with BFG as I think Nittos run a little fatter and the Toyo Open Country AT2 doesn't come in that size.

No problem. Thanks! I like the semi-stock look as well! I had the KO, at the time I bought them, they weren't making the KO2 in the size I wanted. There was a slight rub on the rear part of the fender lining on the driver side at full lock (right turn), but it would have been fixed by tying it back. I really did like the look of the KOs and the white lettering, but two of the tires cracked or got cut from mild off-roading.

 

I changed to Nitto G2 for a few reasons:

1- the warranty on a tire this large (50k for Nitto vs nothing for BFG)

2- the price was right (KO2s were pretty pricey)

3- there weren't any of the KOs left in that size (according to Discount Tire)

4- and I added about 1.5" of additional lift and felt the need to fill the extra space with a larger tire!

 

I don't think there is an difference in actual size between the KO and the KO2 if they're said the same size.

 

Looking back after having purchased the 285 Nittos, I wished I would've gone with a little wider tire, like a 295 or 305, because I really liked that look.

Posted

I just ordered the Motofab 2" level kit for my truck -- it didn't ask whether I had steel or aluminum control arms. I suppose it doesn't matter, even though I have aluminum on my Z71.

 

I also ordered BFG TA KO2's, however they are on 2-4 week backorder. I elected for the LT 275/70R18 size.

 

I'm pretty excited to get this in--I am doing the level myself since it's just a simple block under the strut.

 

http://www.motofablifts.com/product-p/ch-2lm.htm

Posted

I just ordered the Motofab 2" level kit for my truck -- it didn't ask whether I had steel or aluminum control arms. I suppose it doesn't matter, even though I have aluminum on my Z71.

 

I also ordered BFG TA KO2's, however they are on 2-4 week backorder. I elected for the LT 275/70R18 size.

 

I'm pretty excited to get this in--I am doing the level myself since it's just a simple block under the strut.

 

http://www.motofablifts.com/product-p/ch-2lm.htm

I was told Jan. 11 for these exact tires. All of his suppliers showed as having zero of this tire, but after he made a quick phone call, found out they are sitting in a warehouse for inventory reasons.

Posted

No problem. Thanks! I like the semi-stock look as well! I had the KO, at the time I bought them, they weren't making the KO2 in the size I wanted. There was a slight rub on the rear part of the fender lining on the driver side at full lock (right turn), but it would have been fixed by tying it back. I really did like the look of the KOs and the white lettering, but two of the tires cracked or got cut from mild off-roading.

 

I changed to Nitto G2 for a few reasons:

1- the warranty on a tire this large (50k for Nitto vs nothing for BFG)

2- the price was right (KO2s were pretty pricey)

3- there weren't any of the KOs left in that size (according to Discount Tire)

4- and I added about 1.5" of additional lift and felt the need to fill the extra space with a larger tire!

 

I don't think there is an difference in actual size between the KO and the KO2 if they're said the same size.

 

Looking back after having purchased the 285 Nittos, I wished I would've gone with a little wider tire, like a 295 or 305, because I really liked that look.

 

Do you think the 285s or 295s on stock rims would fit width wise without rubbing on a RC 2.5 level?
Posted

I'm burned out on reading up on the leveling kits so hopefully someone can chime in an answer...I want to raise the front and still have a slight rake, so Ive narrowed my options to the 2 inch RC level that looks like it ( might ) make it nose high or the bilstein 5100's. How many of you had to install a rear block due to being nose high with the 2 inch level ?

Posted

I'm burned out on reading up on the leveling kits so hopefully someone can chime in an answer...I want to raise the front and still have a slight rake, so Ive narrowed my options to the 2 inch RC level that looks like it ( might ) make it nose high or the bilstein 5100's. How many of you had to install a rear block due to being nose high with the 2 inch level ?

I've got the 2" and still have rake. no additional on the rear either.

 

Here is how mine looks:

 

FCBC4F90-3306-4009-B659-F53C69A213AB_2.j

  • Like 1
Posted

I've got the 2" and still have rake. no additional on the rear either.

 

Here is how mine looks:

 

FCBC4F90-3306-4009-B659-F53C69A213AB_2.j

tyrich88 your rig looks good I was debating on stock wheels with BFG's .

 

I see some pic's with 2 inch levels on here that seem to look a bit nose high,if mine sits like yours Id be happy with it but its almost like a roll of the dice.

Posted

Hey tried to search this but couldn't find an answer. Jus got a 2016 silverado z71 and picked up some 305/50/20 nitto 420s. I'm debating on which wheel I want, anyone running a 20x10 with -24 offset or -44 with just a level?? Or a 20x12 with -44 offset with a level ??

Posted

Do you think the 285s or 295s on stock rims would fit width wise without rubbing on a RC 2.5 level?

285/65r18 : No rub except maybe a little on swaybar.

295/65r18 : Might rub a little on swaybar and liner. Very few tires available in this size.

295/70r18 : Will rub swaybar and liner. Really need 4" total lift for this tire.

 

I'm burned out on reading up on the leveling kits so hopefully someone can chime in an answer...I want to raise the front and still have a slight rake, so Ive narrowed my options to the 2 inch RC level that looks like it ( might ) make it nose high or the bilstein 5100's. How many of you had to install a rear block due to being nose high with the 2 inch level ?

Even if the wheelwells look level, the big hoods on these trucks make the nose look high if you don't put the rear block in. Put 2" up front, and you lose all the rake, at least visually. If you never put anything in the bed, you might like the look, but carry or tow anything, and you will wish you put the rear block in. There are hundreds of leveled pictures on this site and others, so it's a choice you are going to have to make for yourself. Google Images: Leveled Silverado

 

Hey tried to search this but couldn't find an answer. Jus got a 2016 silverado z71 and picked up some 305/50/20 nitto 420s. I'm debating on which wheel I want, anyone running a 20x10 with -24 offset or -44 with just a level?? Or a 20x12 with -44 offset with a level ??

 

I have a friend running a 2015 with that exact tire with the full RC 2.5" level (front and rear) on Fuels 20x10 with 0 offset. He is rubbing the liner bad in reverse lock. You want to push the tire out 1.78" which may help you with the liner rub, but might cause you issues with the fender.

Posted (edited)
285/65r18 : No rub except maybe a little on swaybar.

295/65r18 : Might rub a little on swaybar and liner. Very few tires available in this size.

295/70r18 : Will rub swaybar and liner. Really need 4" total lift for this tire.

 

 

Even if the wheelwells look level, the big hoods on these trucks make the nose look high if you don't put the rear block in. Put 2" up front, and you lose all the rake, at least visually. If you never put anything in the bed, you might like the look, but carry or tow anything, and you will wish you put the rear block in. There are hundreds of leveled pictures on this site and others, so it's a choice you are going to have to make for yourself. Google Images: Leveled Silverado

 

 

 

I have a friend running a 2015 with that exact tire with the full RC 2.5" level (front and rear) on Fuels 20x10 with 0 offset. He is rubbing the liner bad in reverse lock. You want to push the tire out 1.78" which may help you with the liner rub, but might cause you issues with the fender.[/quote

285/65r18 : No rub except maybe a little on swaybar.

295/65r18 : Might rub a little on swaybar and liner. Very few tires available in this size.

295/70r18 : Will rub swaybar and liner. Really need 4" total lift for this tire.

 

 

Even if the wheelwells look level, the big hoods on these trucks make the nose look high if you don't put the rear block in. Put 2" up front, and you lose all the rake, at least visually. If you never put anything in the bed, you might like the look, but carry or tow anything, and you will wish you put the rear block in. There are hundreds of leveled pictures on this site and others, so it's a choice you are going to have to make for yourself. Google Images: Leveled Silverado

 

 

 

I have a friend running a 2015 with that exact tire with the full RC 2.5" level (front and rear) on Fuels 20x10 with 0 offset. He is rubbing the liner bad in reverse lock. You want to push the tire out 1.78" which may help you with the liner rub, but might cause you issues with the fender.

 

Thanks.nice truck! How does your buddy like the RC 2.5 leveling kit? That is what I was thinking about with the 285-65-20s or possibly 275-65-20s on stock rims. Do you think there would be a problem rubbing with either of those two options on stock 20 inch rims from what you could tell by looking at his truck? Thanks again

Edited by Steeks
Posted (edited)

Just ordered 2.5" level with 1.25 rear block and 1.5" body lift. Going to put on 305/55/20 tires and wheels with 18mm offset. Foresee any issues with this setup?

Edited by rhino2020

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,924
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    KirbyCo
    Newest Member
    KirbyCo
    Joined
  • Who's Online   6 Members, 2 Anonymous, 1,134 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I will be doing that for sure, but I need to solve who has/ where I can find a bidirectional scan tool that will support OBD 1.5. I'm kicking myself because I ebay'ed a Snap On MT2500 that I didn't think I'd ever need anymore. D'oh!! I'd rather not buy another, so I'll contact a few local shops to see if they have one and how much they'd want to do the procedure. I'd rather have the ability to do it myself... I wish there was a modern tool that could do it all, but I'd have no idea what to buy.   The theory with the pulled timing is that it mimics a rich condition. The delayed spark causes incomplete burn and the O2 sensor picks up low oxygen levels. That's interpreted as a rich condition so the PCM pulls fuel and that shows up in the deeply negative fuel trims.
    • An ultra wealthy man had the most beautiful daughter. But, there was a problem. Everything she touched would melt in her hands. No matter what, Metal, Wood, Stone. Anything she touched would melt. She could not feed herself. Because of this, men were afraid of her. Nobody would dare marry her. Her father was despaired. What could he do to help his daughter? He consulted doctors, scientists and anybody who could solve this problem. Finally one of them said, "If your daughter touches one thing that does not melt in her hands, she will be cured." He was overjoyed and came up with a plan. The next day, he held a competition. Any man who could bring his daughter an object that would not melt in her hands would be given billions of dollars to marry her. Three extremely intelligent and handsome young men took up the challenge. The first brought a very heavy steel rod, But alas, when the she touched it, it completely melted in a matter of seconds. He sadly went away. The second brought a beautiful diamond, knowing diamonds were one of the hardest substance in the world and would not melt. But alas, once she held it in her hand, it melted. He too was sent away disappointed. So now, there was one left He was very nervous & sweating. He approached the daughter & said, “put your hand in my pants pocket and feel what is in there." She did exactly what he asked. She felt something very hard. She held it in her hand, squeezing it as hard as she could. It did not melt & remained extremely hard. Her father was overjoyed. Everybody was overjoyed. She was finally cured. Nothing never, ever melted in her hand again. They married and they both lived happily ever after, raising a wonderful family. Question: What was in the the groom’s pants pocket??? Answer below ↓ M&Ms of course! They melt in your mouth, not in your hand. What on earth were you thinking?
    • There's a bunch of tea leaves that you've read, but in any case the delayed timing is unusual. Not sure how that relates to the rich at idle vs. 'normal' while driving.   If you're in this deep, might be worth investigating, and re-learning the sensor. What have you got to lose? Plus, it properly fixes the timing cover leak.
    • The only problem I have seen this cause is longer crank times. 
    • Injector is being sent off today for rebuild and I estimate I'll have it back in 10 days or so.   It may not be the injector...of course...now that I've torn down the intake again. But, let's rule out the injector and replace those spider legs that have been almost rubbed through.   The truck has always had negative timing and I'm reading "normal" timing at warm idle should be +16 or so. I'm negative 16 to 25 or more, and it's always been like that since I bought it.   A light turned on upstairs last night in the old noggin. Rare, I know...   This will be wild, if it turns out to be the cause!   In 2001, according to the old service documentation, the muffler was replaced. Why? I have no idea, it wouldn't have been rusted through by then. But they did a crappy job.   In 2019, another shop replaced it and noted the prior install was poorly done on the work order. "Exhaust system vibrates on crossmember". Except...I guess they just left it be? I believe the husband, the couple who were original owners, had passed by then. Maybe she said it's just not worth it to have the exhaust system fixed and declined repairs. Very few miles were driven between 2019 and 2025.   The exhaust system vibrates heavily on the crossmember and you can feel it and REALLY hear it, even today. Not always, but at idle, it gets going pretty good sometimes.   What if....   ....What if that's enough to trigger one or both of the knock sensors? Could it be tricking the sensors into sensing knock, so it's pulling timing aggressively? Pulling timing heavily means it's firing after the piston reaches full height which means incomplete burn which means the O2 sensor is sensing a rich condition, which means I've been chasing my tail, and what I thought was an inconsequential problem (janky exhaust) has been THE issue for this truck for 25 solid years?   That would be wild. Maybe it IS wild.   The service documentation thereafter, for years, shows visits for rough idle, replacing O2's, replacing the cat, replacing plugs and wires, a misfire condition, like they could never solve the issue. The injector has been replaced 4 times in 80k miles, that's just crazy.   The secondary theory....   The engine has clearly had a leak at the front seal for a very long time (the greasy trench...). I think the truck changed hands quickly ~2025 because there's Napa receipts from someone I don't recognize in the ownership history. They apparently replaced the timing cover seal, and they did a terrible job. There's RTV smeared all over and the leak I had reduced to a weep by snugging the front oil pan bolts is now a leak again.   HOWEVER....I read about replacing the crankshaft position sensor. Any time the ckp sensor is disturbed or timing cover is removed, the truck requires relearning, and that can only be done through a bi-directional scan tool. Skippy with the RTV probably didn't do the relearn procedure is my guess. His scan tool is lost in a pile of RTV goo somewhere.   So, it's very possible the sensor has been disturbed and the truck is just running on the old learn data but not setting a code for anything. The distributor has since been replaced and so has the camshaft position sensor, so all bets are off for that thing.   In the theme of one step forward, two steps back, I returned the accumulator for the AC. The gal I've been working with at O'Really's has been great. She refunded it under manufacturer's defect and we compared it to the replacement I ordered, and sure enough, the replacement is machined very differently (and a gauge actually fits on it!).   Got it home, installed it, started vacuuming it down.... and I couldn't get good vacuum.   The high side service port, where I replaced the old GM ball valve suspecting that was a source of the previous leak....well, I've clearly exposed whatever pre-existing crack in the line where the service port is welded, and made it much worse. Blessing in disguise? Except there goes another $25, now I'm waiting for a replacement AC line.   In 10-ish days ALL the parts will be here. Rebuilt injector, new exhaust system, new cat, new high pressure AC line.   Oh, did I mention the squeaking ISN'T coming from the AC pump? The truck still squeaks when started, and there were words after I started it with the new AC pump installed. But, there was more to replacing the AC pump for just a squeak. A truck with good working AC is something of value, for the comfort alone.   I've ordered a new harmonic balancer because, 30 years is a good run for one of those. Rule it out. The squeak may be something more sinister, though. I'm worried about that ckp sensor and if it was shimmed correctly, or if the timing set was installed correctly. The squeak may be coming from UNDER the timing cover.   At this point, once I get it put back together, I'm thinking I'll take a 50 mile victory lap and then promptly put it up for sale. This truck is cursed. Betty, from beyond the grave, doesn't want anyone messing with her Blazer. Or maybe she's getting revenge for 30 years of shop visits with that thing.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...