Jump to content

2014+ Leveling Kits

bcazier

By bcazier
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 7.7k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

So i put my RC 2" level kit and Toyo 295/55/20's on this weekend. Install was simple, just like on my 2011. It definitely helps to have an extra set of hands when wedging that spacer in there. 295/

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

Thanks. Here is one more from yesterday. Considering we're getting 8-10 inches of rain the next two days, I won't be taking any better pics soon.  

FH212
FH212

Mine is finally done! After months of research I went with the RC 2.5" level kit front only, stock rear block. 20"x9" Fuel Nutz w/ +1 offset, 33x12.50x20 Toyo M/T tires. No rubbing, No trimming, yet a

Posted Images

webhead Enthusiast

webhead

Posted
Posted (edited)

How do you torque wrench the bolt at 3:14 in this video? It's the nut on the upper control arm with the allen key head. I know you put allen key in and then twist the nut with adjustable wrench--but can you torque that without an allen key in or will it spin?

 

 

 

I'm pretty saavy but I've never touched upper control arms on Chevy.

 

Soon as my tires come in I am going to install my Motofab 2" level blocks myself since the place I called wanted $200 bucks to do it.

 

To the guys who have installed this at home already:

 

Has anyone actually tried it the way they do it in this video? Seems a lot easier but I know that this is a not the exact same set up as our trucks.

 

Rough country instructions say you have to remove the factory skid plate and disconnect all the connectors for the electric power steering. Is this the way you guys have done it? If so did it make sense why you are disconnecting these electrical connections? Thanks for your responses!

Edited by webhead
geswek Enthusiast

geswek

Posted
Posted

 

To the guys who have installed this at home already:

 

Has anyone actually tried it the way they do it in this video? Seems a lot easier but I know that this is a not the exact same set up as our trucks.

 

Rough country instructions say you have to remove the factory skid plate and disconnect all the connectors for the electric power steering. Is this the way you guys have done it? If so did it make sense why you are disconnecting these electrical connections? Thanks for your responses!

I tried doing it the way in the video and it wouldn't work for me (after wasting an hour). I finally said screw it and disconnected the steering link and the upper ball joint. Made it go way faster.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
webhead Enthusiast

webhead

Posted
Posted

I tried doing it the way in the video and it wouldn't work for me (after wasting an hour). I finally said screw it and disconnected the steering link and the upper ball joint. Made it go way faster.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So it was necessary to disconnect all three electrical connections for the power steering?

geswek Enthusiast

geswek

Posted
Posted

So it was necessary to disconnect all three electrical connections for the power steering?

No, I don't even know what electrical connectors you are talking about.

 

All I did was disconnect steering link, sway bar, and upper ball joint. That way I could lower the lower arm joint and turn the whole spindle to angle to clear the bolt under the CV joint. Of course I loosens the shock bolts too LOL.

 

It was way faster and less of headache. I just put everything back and tightened it down. I did have to use some body weight to push upper arm and ball joint down to put the nut on. The Z71 shocks are stiff as heck!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 2
webhead Enthusiast

webhead

Posted
Posted

No, I don't even know what electrical connectors you are talking about.

 

All I did was disconnect steering link, sway bar, and upper ball joint. That way I could lower the lower arm joint and turn the whole spindle to angle to clear the bolt under the CV joint. Of course I loosens the shock bolts too LOL.

 

It was way faster and less of headache. I just put everything back and tightened it down. I did have to use some body weight to push upper arm and ball joint down to put the nut on. The Z71 shocks are stiff as heck!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

LOL alright, thanks man.

Ten4Lou Enthusiast

Ten4Lou

Posted
Posted

Thank you guys, I am thoroughly enjoying every minute.

 

So I went with a 2.5" level lift and for tires I went with Toyo Open Country M/T 275/65r20.

 

Truck looks Great!!!

 

If you don't mind me asking, how were the Magneride sensors addressed? Or did you just have them removed? Forgive me if you already covered this question but I couldn't seem to find it in your posts.

 

Thanks,

Lou

DanielAcosta Enthusiast

DanielAcosta

Posted
Posted

Here's some pics a few members asked for

1454626784_zpssmw9hhya.jpg

 

Here's a picture with the wheel being held at full lock. The tire is probably within an 1/8" of the liner but it isn't touching. I'm sure if I flexed the suspension some it would rub.

1454626656_zpsduk6gm3a.jpg

 

That's strange that the same size rubbed so bad on your truck. Where did it rub on metal at? I wouldn't recommend the 295/60r20 for somebody that just wants to throw on a big tire and not touch anything. A 295/55r20 would be better for that. I just wanted a little more meat.

ABCMan I think yours is the best looking lift/tire combo I've seen. You can see from my photos that your tires fill the wheel well much better than mine.

 

For the first 51,500 miles I ran Toyo 275/65R20 (34" tall), then switched to BFG AT/KO2 275/65R20. Since they are the same size, no surprise I had the same results in that I can turn full lock without rubbing, but just barely. Like you, I'm surprised by the poster saying he is rubbing with smaller tires. I think the issue is all level kits are not created equal. My wheel wells measure 40", which is 4" taller than stock in front. I'm guessing the ABCMan's is 1/2 to 1 inch taller, and the guy who said he rubs at full lock probably measures a little lower. So if you all have a moment, please measure your wheel well height and post it so we can all learn, thanks!

Abcman Enthusiast

Abcman

Posted
Posted

ABCMan I think yours is the best looking lift/tire combo I've seen. You can see from my photos that your tires fill the wheel well much better than mine.

 

For the first 51,500 miles I ran Toyo 275/65R20 (34" tall), then switched to BFG AT/KO2 275/65R20. Since they are the same size, no surprise I had the same results in that I can turn full lock without rubbing, but just barely. Like you, I'm surprised by the poster saying he is rubbing with smaller tires. I think the issue is all level kits are not created equal. My wheel wells measure 40", which is 4" taller than stock in front. I'm guessing the ABCMan's is 1/2 to 1 inch taller, and the guy who said he rubs at full lock probably measures a little lower. So if you all have a moment, please measure your wheel well height and post it so we can all learn, thanks!

Thanks. I'm very happy with the look I ended up with. My local dealer has been putting 295/55r20 Toyos on these trucks with the level I have and they just look to small on these trucks, of course that's just my opinion, but that's why I went with the 295/60r20. I wanted 35s to start with because I had read where people said they didn't rub, but I now see where that isn't the truth.

 

I'm around 40-1/2" in the front and 40-1/4" in the rear.

Jibroussard New Member

Jibroussard

Posted
Posted (edited)

Would be interesting to hear measurments from center of wheel to fender as opposed to ground to fender to help everyone get a comparison on actual suspension height not factoring in tire variations. Then we can compare tire sizes against that measurement. Thoughts?

 

Mine measures 24 1/4 front and 24 3/8 rear. From center of wheel to fender

Edited by Jibroussard
bdup Enthusiast

bdup

Posted
Posted

Pro comp 2.25

Bfg ko2 275/60/20

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

 

Pro comp 2.25

Bfg ko2 275/60/20

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Any rubbing? thx

zback Enthusiast

zback

Posted
Posted

What is the ride quality like on the bilsteins on the max setting? I'm trying to decide if I should go with them or look at another option. Also, do you think I could fit 275/65/20s on a 2016 AT with a bilstein lift at the max setting?

SilverGMC Enthusiast

SilverGMC

Posted
Posted

 

Pro comp 2.25

Bfg ko2 275/60/20

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

 

Pro comp 2.25

Bfg ko2 275/60/20

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Any rubbing? thx

No rubbing at all. Definitely could fit a bigger tire

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Donstar Senior Enthusiast

Donstar

Posted
Posted

Can someone direct me to a page on this forum (or elsewhere) that will clearly explain what a 1.5 inch level generated by a bottom of the shock spacer will do to my suspension? I want to raise up the front of my truck for appearance while maintaining a small rake. I want to know if I lose any suspension travel or negatively alter anything else. The Bilstein shocks make sense but the installed cost is too much for me to justify at this time. Thanks!

Clocked92 Enthusiast

Clocked92

Posted
Posted

Can someone direct me to a page on this forum (or elsewhere) that will clearly explain what a 1.5 inch level generated by a bottom of the shock spacer will do to my suspension? I want to raise up the front of my truck for appearance while maintaining a small rake. I want to know if I lose any suspension travel or negatively alter anything else. The Bilstein shocks make sense but the installed cost is too much for me to justify at this time. Thanks!

 

I had Bilstein 5100's installed for a very reasonable price. I ordered the shocks online and had them shipped free to my door in 3 days from Richmond, BC. The shocks were $150 each. Install and Alignment was another $300 so my all in cost to level my truck was $600 including alignment. I know a guy who had a Readylift 2.25" Level installed at the dealer near me for $1100. So Bilsteins aren't really more expensive to do.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,894
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    TopBo
    Newest Member
    TopBo
    Joined

  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,214 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • davester
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By davester · Posted

      not all plugs will be used.  gm uses more generic harnesses that support most/all options, and if your truck doesn't have a specfiic option, the plug won't be used (commonly will have a dummy insert in the plug , or it'll be taped up, but some may just be left as is).  But it's sldo possible some p.o. has installed the wrong/cheaper parts that aren't correct for your vehicle...
    • fm2176
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By fm2176 · Posted

      First off, I'm not trying to just get easy advice/fixes for the issues I've noticed so far.  I'll be combing through the site via searches and such, and if past experiences are any indication, should find what I need.  For the sake of conversation, though, I figured I'd post the handful of things I've noticed in the 12 hours since buying my 2010 SLE CCSB.     Indicator lights: Airbag and TPMS.  The tire pressures aren't reading for any of the wheels, so I'm pretty certain the sensors were either removed, are damaged, or are otherwise inoperable.  I used to mount and balance tires 25 years ago but am pretty much ignorant when it comes to TPMS.  My 2006 didn't have the sensors and this might be the fourth vehicle I've owned that does.     Radio: Rear speakers aren't working.  I removed the driver's side rear door panel and checked the speaker and wiring.  I also removed the sill and b-pillar covers to check the wiring.  A few minutes of Google Fu showed that this is potentially a head unit issue.    Switches: Power mirrors don't turn left/right.  I ordered replacement driver's door switches that should arrive tomorrow.  The windows and locks work but it was only about $20 for all of them.  The driver's side rear window switch lets the window down but won't put it back up.  I think the passenger rear doesn't work at all.  In the coming days/weeks, I'll break out my multimeter to check all of that.   Unknown wiring harness: There's a box attached to the front driver's side of the engine compartment, right where the second battery shelf is located.  There are three plugs, one of which looks like it fits a standard headlight-style bulb (9007 or similar).  It doesn't look like it's plugged into anything.  I'll do some digging and if I don't see anything elsewhere on the site, post some pictures here.   Unknown plugs on brake booster: There are at least two female plugs on the brake booster that aren't being used.  I think it might be a replacement/aftermarket, so maybe those are used for a different application, as there don't seem to be any unplugged harnesses and no indicator lights are on.   Little squeaks when turning: Sounds almost like a bushing around the bed of the truck.  I'll have to pay close attention as I get more familiar with the truck.   Clunk on acceleration: possibly the infamous drivetrain clunk.  My 2006 had it and I'm just not familiar enough with this truck yet to fully grasp what it is.   Anyway, my apologies for the vague and all over the place post.  This truck is new to me, and it's been four years since I drove my 2006.  With 200k miles, I know I'll need to learn this truck quickly to avoid having any major issues, despite being confident it's got much more life to it.  My 2006 had nearly 320k on it when I parked it (nearly 300k of which I put on the truck), and it was still drivable then, though I suspected the head gasket might have blown.  I'd hoped to have that truck back by now, but it's gone forever, as I detailed in my reintroduction thread.  
    • lowrider
      Range RA007 DFM Module

      By lowrider · Posted

      I always drive in Sport mode. With more driving, I am finding the initial response when accelerating is much quicker now🖕 Lou
    • Tyler Gibbs
      2022 2500HD with a new RSI SmartCap

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      Is it an optical illusion in the pic or is the truck really squatting that much horribly?
    • fm2176
      It's Been a Long Time...

      By fm2176 · Posted

      My initial introduction was here.  It's hard to believe that I last posted in February 2013, having just deployed to Kyrgyzstan.  Since then, I've retired from the military and the 2006 Sierra SLT Z71 that first brought me to these pages was lost.  I went forward to Afghanistan in March 2013 and did a lot of sitting behind a computer on brigade staff.  Within 18 months of getting back to the States, I was selected for Drill Sergeant duty, after which I moved back to Virginia (my home state and where I served from 2004-2008).  That '06 Sierra did a lot of driving between Louisiana, Georgia, and Virginia, and ended up with nearly 320k miles by 2022.  By then, the registration had been expired for a couple of years, but the pandemic had all but eliminated tickets for such transgressions.  Admittedly too, I usually drove my wife's SUV or son's car the 2-3 times a week I had to report to work.  Teleworking sure was fun while it lasted.   I started my retirement leave four years ago and stored the Sierra at my sister's house.  A big mess was made when her fiancé passed while she was taking care of business out-of-state in late-2024, and his son pretty much mismanaged everything to do with the estate.  Even so, I was assured that my truck was safe... until it wasn't.  I found out that my truck had been scrapped about four months after the son took over everything.  There's nothing I could do; I'm 1000 miles away and it was technically abandoned property since he'd even trespassed my sister from her own house (she had no claim to it as she wasn't married, and the fiancé was the sole owner).     Anyway, today I got my second Sierra.  This is a 2010 SLE 2WB CCSB with a little over 200k miles on it.  It's got the 5.3L I'm familiar with and should handle what I need it for.  Hauling stuff that won't fit in the Transit Connect (yep, I sold out, but that's the wife's vehicle) and towing a few times a year tops.  The price seemed decent, considering how much people sell their trucks for in the Deep South: $4500.  I've seen similar trucks listed for more than double that.  I got it from a coworker who left his tag on until we transfer the title next week (Louisiana requires a notary for transfers), so I've been driving it all day.  The rear speakers don't work, which is one of the things that brought me back to these forums earlier.  I can't say how active I'll be as a poster, but I'll be scouring the archives while I find out every little thing I can about the 2010s and particular nuances/problems with my truck.   It's definitely not a GMC, but I got another Willys Jeep a few months back as well, so I'm almost at the same place I was when I first joined gm-trucks.com.  My old 1960 DJ3A was sold back around 2010 or 2011; my current Jeep is a 1946 CJ2A.  So, I've got a slightly newer GMC and a much older Jeep.  I kind of wish I still had that F-250 I had way back when too.  The Dakota is long gone and was technically my brother's truck, though I had it registered and insured.  The F-250 had to go when my grandmother's house was foreclosed on due to mismanagement around 2012 or so.     Hopefully anyone that made it this far isn't too annoyed.  I tend to be long-winded, but I'll be doing more reading than posting in the coming months.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...