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2014+ Leveling Kits

bcazier

By bcazier
in Modifications & Accessories

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Stratos284 New Member

Stratos284

Posted
Posted

Heres my 2014 GMC All Terrain

2" level kit

285x65x18 Toyo Open Country AT

18x9 XD Cranks 0 offset

I planned to install a 3.5 lift but since I have zero rubbing issues Ill leave the hight as is for the nice ride.

Its also the "lowest" 4wd Ive ever owned.post-165476-0-20598500-1479691489_thumb.jpg

post-165476-0-20598500-1479691489_thumb.jpg

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Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

So i put my RC 2" level kit and Toyo 295/55/20's on this weekend. Install was simple, just like on my 2011. It definitely helps to have an extra set of hands when wedging that spacer in there. 295/

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

Thanks. Here is one more from yesterday. Considering we're getting 8-10 inches of rain the next two days, I won't be taking any better pics soon.  

FH212
FH212

Mine is finally done! After months of research I went with the RC 2.5" level kit front only, stock rear block. 20"x9" Fuel Nutz w/ +1 offset, 33x12.50x20 Toyo M/T tires. No rubbing, No trimming, yet a

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tyrich88 Enthusiast

tyrich88

Posted
Posted

I didn't think you could run 275/70/18 without at least 1" of front. But is it really needed? Or can I run this size without a level and not have any rubbing?

 

Just put a 2.25 Ready Lift on my 2016 GMC SLE Z71. I am putting 275/70R18 Duratracs on it next weekend. Any others out there run the same setup without looking through this whole topic? Should I expect any rubbing?

 

In regards to 275/70/18s

I put BFG KO2's on in this size, before i had a level on.

I don't recall it rubbing anywhere.

I leveled it a few days later, but it didn't rub in the stock setup either.

 

With my 2" level, I've taken the truck off road on numerous occasions, through rocks, jeep roads and fields and never had any rubbing offroad either.

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Salty315 Enthusiast

Salty315

Posted
Posted

Installed RC 2" level last weekend (2016 Silverado with stamped steel arms). Instructions state to install on top of shock mount pointing down. Due to the CV shaft being in the way, this isn't possible for one of the bolts. When installing that particular bolt pointing up (as instructed in many of the online videos) it makes contact with the CV shaft. It seemed very slight and only when the arms were fully dropped. I thought the vehicle would have to leave the ground for the bolt to contact the shaft. A two mile test drive proved otherwise. I had to cut 1/4" off the interfering bolt and now it's fine. Has anyone else seen this?

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post-165022-0-05875500-1479743592_thumb.jpg

post-165022-0-05875500-1479743592_thumb.jpg

post-165022-0-05875500-1479743592_thumb.jpg

MOhunter92 Enthusiast

MOhunter92

Posted
Posted

Installed RC 2" level last weekend (2016 Silverado with stamped steel arms). Instructions state to install on top of shock mount pointing down. Due to the CV shaft being in the way, this isn't possible for one of the bolts. When installing that particular bolt pointing up (as instructed in many of the online videos) it makes contact with the CV shaft. It seemed very slight and only when the arms were fully dropped. I thought the vehicle would have to leave the ground for the bolt to contact the shaft. A two mile test drive proved otherwise. I had to cut 1/4" off the interfering bolt and now it's fine. Has anyone else seen this?

Yes very commonly talked about here. You must install them bolt going down for this reason. You must remove the upper ball joint and tie rod end entirely from the knuckle so you can move the hub out of the way to install the bolt going down.

 

 

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Salty315 Enthusiast

Salty315

Posted
Posted

Yes very commonly talked about here. You must install them bolt going down for this reason. You must remove the upper ball joint and tie rod end entirely from the knuckle so you can move the hub out of the way to install the bolt going down.

 

 

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Yep, removed tie rod, upper ball joint and sway bar connector. This allows hub to move, but doesn't change position of CV shaft, other than up and down. Not nearly enough allowance for the bolt . Maybe I'm missing something?

tyrich88 Enthusiast

tyrich88

Posted
Posted

Yep, removed tie rod, upper ball joint and sway bar connector. This allows hub to move, but doesn't change position of CV shaft, other than up and down. Not nearly enough allowance for the bolt . Maybe I'm missing something?

I just cut the bolt last time I put one in.

Worked great.

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Sierra Jon Enthusiast

Sierra Jon

Posted
Posted

Did anyone else have a difficult time separating the upper ball joint from the upper control arm during install?

 

I have the motofab lower spacer and the bolts install from the top down so I need to remove the upper ball joint to swing the axle out of the way.

 

I guess the next question would be... Did anyone just use the factory bolts and nut clips with the motofab 2 inch? It doesn't look like there's enough clearance for the nut clip once the spacer is installed.

 

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COchevy New Member

COchevy

Posted
Posted (edited)

whichever way you go, post up pics of those 295s once you get them on your rig!

Just got the 2" motofab front leveling kit. Pictures are with the 295/65:18. No rubbing. This kit lifts the front 2inches but it is now not level in the back.

Edited by COchevy
bcbz71 Enthusiast

bcbz71

Posted
Posted

Just got the 2" motofab front leveling kit. Pictures are with the 295/65:18. No rubbing. This kit lifts the front 2inches but it is now not level in the back.

 

Glad to hear the tires aren't rubbing....they fill up the wheelwell nicely.

 

Your cap is probably weighing down the back a little. I personally don't like the look of a level without the rear 2" block. Even with a 2" block in the rear, I run rear air bags to keep the back from sagging when loaded or when towing.

Northernmoris Enthusiast

Northernmoris

Posted
Posted

I am looking to level my '17 1500. I think I've narrowed it down to a motofab 2.5" front with a 1" rear. I'd love to do a 3" but have read about how it's not a good idea. Do they make the adjustable Bilsteins for the '17 yet? Just trying to find other way to get to 3 with out a suspension lift.

ChevyRoofer Senior Enthusiast

ChevyRoofer

Posted
Posted

I am looking to level my '17 1500. I think I've narrowed it down to a motofab 2.5" front with a 1" rear. I'd love to do a 3" but have read about how it's not a good idea. Do they make the adjustable Bilsteins for the '17 yet? Just trying to find other way to get to 3 with out a suspension lift.

 

5100s would work from Bilstein - The max setting only gives 1.85" of lift though.

asalinasz39 Enthusiast

asalinasz39

Posted
Posted

Read through almost the entire thread. Until i decided on motofab 2" front leveling under strut spacer. Will be doing the installation myself and posting the results. Received the kit already and just need to gather the tools necessary. Hoping for a 3/4" rake.

Current stock height front 36.75" and rear 39.5" Truck is a 2017 ltz z71 4x4 for reference. Spacer measures 1.25" which If iam correct a 1:2 ratio would produce 2.5" lift but we shall see.6cc8efd1e6909f45f21f4a2225a4d8a7.jpg

7fe36d960798daffd2484238727331e8.jpg

 

 

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BSME1115 Enthusiast

BSME1115

Posted
Posted

I tried searching real quick buy may be quicker to answer. Is there any kind of a difference between using an aluminum or composite leveling spacer? aka: Motofab versus RC 2".

 

Not considering price, brand, or anything. Purely material. Is there a positive/negative to one material over the other?

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