Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Bare with me...I'm new here. I wanted to post a few pics since this forum has helped me figure out what I wanted to go with. Hopefully, this will help someone else out. I was looking to level my front end without giving up any ride quality, as well as get a little bit bigger tire without losing any gas mileage. I wanted to/and will eventually go with a 295/55, but going from about 42 lbs per tire to about 61 lbs per tire seemed like a big jump. I was going to get a programmer, but I read that with these newer trucks, the dealership can tell if you had programmed it, even if you programmed back to stock, and it could void the warranty. So, I decided I'll wait until my warranty is up before I go with a heavier tire and a programmer. I went with the Bilstein 5100 Adjustable Ride Height Shocks at highest setting (about 1.86) and 275/60 Nitto Terra Grappler G2 on stock 20x9 GMC Wheels. The tires are not an LT, but are an XL, which means they are a 4-ply tire with an extra load rating. They ride about the same as the tires that came on the truck and are the same weight. I do a lot of highway driving with very little off road driving or towing, so I was ok with not going to an LT tire. As far as the 5100's go, couldn't be happier. I read that the ride would be stiffer, but better. Didn't understand what that would feel like until I drove it. Much better...no more bounce. Even my wife thinks it rides better. No rub at all.

I'm digging the Pepperdust. Planning to level mine here in a few weeks after I move, so it's nice to see someone else's in that color.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

FYI. I just got off the phone with Jeremy at Zone and he told me that they will be coming out with a kit for the 2016 models but it is different from the 2014-2015 C9151 Zone 1.5" BL Kit. He said the bolts should be different and the parking brake bracket will be different and the new kit should be available "soon". That was the best he could offer me.

Yeah, the pass through for the E-brake cable needed to be cut out a little more than the instructions say, but it wasn't a big deal.

Posted

I'm digging the Pepperdust. Planning to level mine here in a few weeks after I move, so it's nice to see someone else's in that color.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah, I went from Black to this and I love it!

Posted (edited)

Sorry Bad pic quality

 

2016 Z71 Double Cab

2.5in RC Leveling Kit With 2in Rear Block

Fuel Anza's 20x9 +20 Offset

BFG KO2 275/60/20

Magnum Rack With Lights

 

No rubbing or trimming

post-170842-0-20332500-1490321547_thumb.jpgpost-170842-0-25214900-1490384227_thumb.jpgpost-170842-0-65391900-1490384305_thumb.jpg

post-170842-0-20332500-1490321547_thumb.jpg

post-170842-0-25214900-1490384227_thumb.jpg

post-170842-0-65391900-1490384305_thumb.jpg

post-170842-0-20332500-1490321547_thumb.jpg

post-170842-0-25214900-1490384227_thumb.jpg

post-170842-0-65391900-1490384305_thumb.jpg

post-170842-0-20332500-1490321547_thumb.jpg

post-170842-0-25214900-1490384227_thumb.jpg

post-170842-0-65391900-1490384305_thumb.jpg

Edited by CraftsZ71
  • Like 1
Posted

2" Monofab level kit, Fender Flares, Moto Metal 20x10 Razors, Nitto Terra Grappler G2 LT 305/55/20 sneakers.

Posted

I hate to ask the question, but what do rear blocks do?

 

The rear blocks swap the stock 1.25" block under the leaf with a 2.25" block. Essentially lifting the rear end 1".

 

People refer to having added or not added the rear block because it's a common part in most level kits.

Posted

2" Monofab level kit, Fender Flares, Moto Metal 20x10 Razors, Nitto Terra Grappler G2 LT 305/55/20 sneakers.

You don't have rubbing issues with that size tire ?

Posted

2" Monofab level kit, Fender Flares, Moto Metal 20x10 Razors, Nitto Terra Grappler G2 LT 305/55/20 sneakers.

Who makes those fender flares?

 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Posted

I went with the rough country 2" level (front only) on my 15. Mainly because it was 49$ and took me an hour to install if you can get the front up on jack stands. This kit doesn't touch the back and looks to sit perfectly level. I will be going to offset wheels and wider tires this summer so we'll see what I can stuff in there haha. But anyways. I see no difference in the ride. I did the 2.5" on my 08 and that includes blocks for the rear which seem to stiffen that up a bit more. Third lift/level I've purchased from RC and no complaints. Lifetime warranty. And again. It was only 49$ !

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

Who makes those fender flares?

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

You can order a new truck with them, or have them installed painted to match. I can't remember the name right now, but if you look on gm site, it is an option

You don't have rubbing issues with that size tire and?

Still working on that. Getting alignment tomorrow, then gonna check what needs to be trimmed. You ca order the 20x9's and possibly a 305/50/20 tire that is like 32", but I wanted them to come out to th flares. The offset I believe is -26

Posted

I went with the rough country 2" level (front only) on my 15. Mainly because it was 49$ and took me an hour to install if you can get the front up on jack stands. This kit doesn't touch the back and looks to sit perfectly level. I will be going to offset wheels and wider tires this summer so we'll see what I can stuff in there haha. But anyways. I see no difference in the ride. I did the 2.5" on my 08 and that includes blocks for the rear which seem to stiffen that up a bit more. Third lift/level I've purchased from RC and no complaints. Lifetime warranty. And again. It was only 49$ !

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm also doing just the front but I got a 2.5" leveling kit. When I measured front and rear, I had like a 3 1/8" difference so I hope it comes out level. If not, I'll be ordering some 2" blocks. Plan on doing it this weekend if the weather is good.

 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,894
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    TopBo
    Newest Member
    TopBo
    Joined
  • Who's Online   6 Members, 0 Anonymous, 843 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can anyone explain why the oil pressure runs higher after the DFM is shut off?  just installed the Pulsar Lt.
    • Thanks!  I figured as such; GM and other manufacturers have used standard parts and harnesses across trim levels and such for decades.  I pulled the blank accessory cover off of my commuter van (a 2016 or so Chevy 15-passenger) years ago and found the plug for a USB outlet.  It wasn't connected to anything, though (I tried swapping in an outlet from another van).  I was a GM Tech years ago (late-90s) and was pretty familiar with my 2006.  I might be wrong, but I view newer vehicles (pretty much anything made in the past 20 years) as being a lot more plug and play.  Meaning, more unused wires and plugs unless you have the Mack Daddy of vehicles.    
    • not all plugs will be used.  gm uses more generic harnesses that support most/all options, and if your truck doesn't have a specfiic option, the plug won't be used (commonly will have a dummy insert in the plug , or it'll be taped up, but some may just be left as is).  But it's sldo possible some p.o. has installed the wrong/cheaper parts that aren't correct for your vehicle...
    • First off, I'm not trying to just get easy advice/fixes for the issues I've noticed so far.  I'll be combing through the site via searches and such, and if past experiences are any indication, should find what I need.  For the sake of conversation, though, I figured I'd post the handful of things I've noticed in the 12 hours since buying my 2010 SLE CCSB.     Indicator lights: Airbag and TPMS.  The tire pressures aren't reading for any of the wheels, so I'm pretty certain the sensors were either removed, are damaged, or are otherwise inoperable.  I used to mount and balance tires 25 years ago but am pretty much ignorant when it comes to TPMS.  My 2006 didn't have the sensors and this might be the fourth vehicle I've owned that does.     Radio: Rear speakers aren't working.  I removed the driver's side rear door panel and checked the speaker and wiring.  I also removed the sill and b-pillar covers to check the wiring.  A few minutes of Google Fu showed that this is potentially a head unit issue.    Switches: Power mirrors don't turn left/right.  I ordered replacement driver's door switches that should arrive tomorrow.  The windows and locks work but it was only about $20 for all of them.  The driver's side rear window switch lets the window down but won't put it back up.  I think the passenger rear doesn't work at all.  In the coming days/weeks, I'll break out my multimeter to check all of that.   Unknown wiring harness: There's a box attached to the front driver's side of the engine compartment, right where the second battery shelf is located.  There are three plugs, one of which looks like it fits a standard headlight-style bulb (9007 or similar).  It doesn't look like it's plugged into anything.  I'll do some digging and if I don't see anything elsewhere on the site, post some pictures here.   Unknown plugs on brake booster: There are at least two female plugs on the brake booster that aren't being used.  I think it might be a replacement/aftermarket, so maybe those are used for a different application, as there don't seem to be any unplugged harnesses and no indicator lights are on.   Little squeaks when turning: Sounds almost like a bushing around the bed of the truck.  I'll have to pay close attention as I get more familiar with the truck.   Clunk on acceleration: possibly the infamous drivetrain clunk.  My 2006 had it and I'm just not familiar enough with this truck yet to fully grasp what it is.   Anyway, my apologies for the vague and all over the place post.  This truck is new to me, and it's been four years since I drove my 2006.  With 200k miles, I know I'll need to learn this truck quickly to avoid having any major issues, despite being confident it's got much more life to it.  My 2006 had nearly 320k on it when I parked it (nearly 300k of which I put on the truck), and it was still drivable then, though I suspected the head gasket might have blown.  I'd hoped to have that truck back by now, but it's gone forever, as I detailed in my reintroduction thread.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...