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2014+ Leveling Kits

bcazier

By bcazier
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Likarok Senior Enthusiast

Likarok

Posted
Posted (edited)

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Finally did a level lift on my 2014. These reg cab trucks are famous for the nose dive front end they have. 2" level on front and also added a set of 285-55-20 Toyo AT tires. I just can't believe it is the same truck when you stand beside it. The stance now makes it look like a lot more truck!

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Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

So i put my RC 2" level kit and Toyo 295/55/20's on this weekend. Install was simple, just like on my 2011. It definitely helps to have an extra set of hands when wedging that spacer in there. 295/

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

Thanks. Here is one more from yesterday. Considering we're getting 8-10 inches of rain the next two days, I won't be taking any better pics soon.  

FH212
FH212

Mine is finally done! After months of research I went with the RC 2.5" level kit front only, stock rear block. 20"x9" Fuel Nutz w/ +1 offset, 33x12.50x20 Toyo M/T tires. No rubbing, No trimming, yet a

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SuperSierra Enthusiast

SuperSierra

Posted
Posted

lift%201.jpg

 

lift3.jpg

 

Finally did a level lift on my 2014. These reg cab trucks are famous for the nose dive front end they have. 2" level on front and also added a set of 285-55-20 Toyo AT tires. I just can't believe it is the same truck when you stand beside it. The stance now makes it look like a lot more truck!

If you want it to look even higher take off the air dam. now that it is level that air dam is causing more drag/resistants, but if you like the look leave it on. All looks good.

 

 

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HoosierZ Enthusiast

HoosierZ

Posted
Posted

Looks good. Three inches of rake on a regular cab looks way worse than on a longer wheelbase.

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hotfish23 Enthusiast

hotfish23

Posted
Posted

If you want it to look even higher take off the air dam. now that it is level that air dam is causing more drag/resistants, but if you like the look leave it on. All looks good.

 

 

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I'm not trying to be an ass. But how do you know that the air dam is now causing drag/resistance? Have you seen evidence, or is this an assumption?

 

 

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SuperSierra Enthusiast

SuperSierra

Posted
Posted

I'm not trying to be an ass. But how do you know that the air dam is now causing drag/resistance? Have you seen evidence, or is this an assumption?

 

 

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You're not being a ass, if you don't ask you won't learn.

 

That air dam like all car air dams are made to push air under your vehicle or push it off to the side to make less resistance on your vehicle.

After you lifted the front end of your truck the air is now pushing against the dam and not flowing under it smoothly. Basically working as a spoiler now.

8a2cf42fc896962e81f2a26d74e3421f.pnga95da197e73e1aeae01b76b2e8f9afcf.jpg

 

Pretend you are in the water, and you need to push a long piece of wood across if the wood is touching the water, at a 110 degree angle ( like your air dam was) it's not so hard, the force would be at the top and water would go off the sides. Now move that to a 90 degree angle (where it is now) the force will be much greater and not as controlled.

 

 

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hotfish23 Enthusiast

hotfish23

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Posted

I understand the logic but that's assuming the only factor at play is the angle/height of the dam. This is ignoring all of the non-aerodynamic pieces hanging below the vehicle. Take your example and place things that create drag behind that piece of wood and even if the wood is moved up or at a different angle it will help in reducing the drag created by that in which is behind it. I appreciate your time and response. And hope this can be a constructive conversation.

 

I am a mechanical engineer in the aerospace industry so I've dealt quite a bit with drag and the likes. I've just always assumed that the dam on a truck would be beneficial regardless of height and angle (unless you are lifted high). I am leveled with the dam on and am curious now if I would see and change if I removed it. I believe that I would. My thoughts on this, are that the dam will still push air to the sides and lower towards the ground away from the drag behind it. As well as routing the air around the tires towards the outside, which believe it or not, are huge sources of drag.

 

 

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SuperSierra Enthusiast

SuperSierra

Posted
Posted

I understand the logic but that's assuming the only factor at play is the angle/height of the dam. This is ignoring all of the non-aerodynamic pieces hanging below the vehicle. Take your example and place things that create drag behind that piece of wood and even if the wood is moved up or at a different angle it will help in reducing the drag created by that in which is behind it. I appreciate your time and response. And hope this can be a constructive conversation.

 

I am a mechanical engineer in the aerospace industry so I've dealt quite a bit with drag and the likes. I've just always assumed that the dam on a truck would be beneficial regardless of height and angle (unless you are lifted high). I am leveled with the dam on and am curious now if I would see and change if I removed it. I believe that I would. My thoughts on this, are that the dam will still push air to the sides and lower towards the ground away from the drag behind it. As well as routing the air around the tires towards the outside, which believe it or not, are huge sources of drag.

 

 

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Yes, but you are forgetting that the wind will be pushing the air dam back (it has some give on the sides from being so long)

 

also the rubber skid plate, it's angled to avoid wind from hitting your axle and other low hanging objects. I currently have mine off (going to be painting it) so don't think I'm strange for having it off, I didn't go under my truck to make a point lol.

9dfe163700a34c2443e5df6208a4c188.jpge4d2e1a27801b996fe9b257578f04aca.jpge49c5e20bfef591233a6f67c59ce146d.jpg

 

 

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corncob Enthusiast

corncob

Posted
Posted

If anyone here can drive so consistently that they can actually tell how much the air dam affects their mpg, my hat is off to you. Until then, all we can do is assume it works to reduce drag on stock vehicles because GM has it on there and it may or may not on leveled/lifted vehicles. But if you're already leveled/lifted, do you really give a flying hoot about a 1/4 of an mpg over the looks? So do whatever you think looks better.

 

I mean, I get it, it's fun to debate how the air dam affects it. But without a carefully controlled environment you're not going to get an answer. So you're pretty much just bloviating.

 

 

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  • Like 2
hotfish23 Enthusiast

hotfish23

Posted
Posted

I agree that a 1/4 mpg isn't much. It's been stated that the difference is a 1/2 mpg, but that isn't really the point of the conversation. It's definitely more of friendly discussion. However, saying we just have to assume it's there because of mileage is not necessarily true. In an industry, world for that matter, where designs are driven by the mighty dollar an extra piece of plastic wouldn't be added for no reason. There is a gm published video showing the results of the dam and it's quite amazing. This is definitely included on the vehicle to help meet the demands of the federal gov for mileage.

 

 

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rawalters117 Enthusiast

rawalters117

Posted
Posted

Like you, I think the 285s look "OK" on these trucks, but not great. The more I look at this setup, the more I like it.

 

Can I get some more pictures? I'm especially interested in some pictures of someone holding the steering at full lock, and seeing the clearance around the tire (front, rear, UCA and Swaybar).

 

Finally got around to snapping these pics. Its tough to really get a good angle at it, but there is zero rub. I have about a 1/2" of clearance. It seems like now that the GM wheel wells are a tad more boxy than earlier models, we also have a bit more room to hit bumps while turning/in reverse also. My driveway is pretty steep, and when backing out at an angle, I still dont rub at full lock. That being said, Im pretty confident in saying I found the absolute limit as far as tire size goes for just a 2" level and stock wheels.

 

 

8822D3DE-4665-4CCF-8A9F-2E1A80BEE526_zps

DB9D6C5F-0584-47FD-9EE0-50C407DBD4C9_zps

bcbz71 Enthusiast

bcbz71

Posted
Posted

Finally got around to snapping these pics. Its tough to really get a good angle at it, but there is zero rub. I have about a 1/2" of clearance. It seems like now that the GM wheel wells are a tad more boxy than earlier models, we also have a bit more room to hit bumps while turning/in reverse also. My driveway is pretty steep, and when backing out at an angle, I still dont rub at full lock. That being said, Im pretty confident in saying I found the absolute limit as far as tire size goes for just a 2" level and stock wheels.

Thanks for pics. That's certainly a tight fit. Did you see any rubbing on the UCA or Swaybar? Those tires don't have wildly aggressive sidewalls, so any rubbing there might not be that noticeable in lock-to-lock turning.

 

Can you take true mounted measurements of the height (vertical and horizontal) as well as the tread width and section width (eye balled)? I'd like to compare your measurements to the Nittos I'm running now.

Mattvand Enthusiast

Mattvand

Posted
Posted

Hello, new to this forum but have been a lurker for a while.

Thought I'd post my setup for reference:

2017 Silverado 1500 LT Z71

Just put a motofab 2" level kit and Falken Wlidpeak A/T3 in 275/70/18 on stock 18" rims.

I do have rubbing on upper control arms at full lock. Tires at 40psi.

 

Thanks!

KurtA Enthusiast

KurtA

Posted
Posted

For those who've done their own leveling kit:

 

I've done several on my previous vehicles, and a fair amount of front end work in college, but.... I attempted to pop the upper ball joint this week, on my new Silverado, and it wouldn't budge. I used a pair of 3# hammers (one one the left side of the knuckle, the other swung from the right, and vis-versa.) Nothing! Puppy is holding fast!

 

A friend suggested that the knub on the back side of the knuckle was the appropriate target point... what's your experience?

Mattvand Enthusiast

Mattvand

Posted
Posted

Yeah, that was a complete b**ch. I alternated smacking front back and that nub on the frame-side with an engineering hammer until my arms were on fire. I ended up running the nut up super tight a few times then hammering. Seemed to work a little better.

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