Bed Liner Discussion

[crewl1]

My truck came with the factory sprayed liner option with the big bow tie in the front of the bed sprayed over.

From sitting on the lot waiting to be sold the floor of the spray was a bit more grayish and not as shiny as the walls and tailgate that received less direct sunlight.

It's all under a tonneau cover now so I'm not concerned but a few months of sunlight did take its toll.

UV protection is good advice.

[ember1205]

I'm well aware of what goes into a spray in prep but the difference is Line-X and the others essentially replace the paint that is sanded away. The drop-ins will vibrate and rub off paint and leave a mess should you ever choose to get rid of it. Spray-ins cost way more but when you're spending $30k+ on a new truck the few hundred the spray-in costs is a drop in the bucket.

 

$500 for Line-X, $375 for drop-in. Not a terribly huge difference.

 

Anyone try the Dual Liner?

 

It looks interesting, but their marketing partially FUD-based (Fear, Uncertainty, Dread). I've never seen a drop-in liner that blocks water underneath from reaching the drain holes. But, for the price ($419), why not get Line-X? It's MUCH more durable for bottom-of-the-bed protection.

 

Hi Chris. I just can't bring myself to have brand new paint sanded down and sprayed over permanently. Currently I'm looking for an economical but viable alternative. My opinion may soften over time but for now I'm not looking to spend that kind of money and make that drastic of a change to my brand new truck bed.

 

Would you be ok with the factory drop-in liner? You know, the one where they drill ten holes into your bed and tailgate with self-tapping screws to mount it? How about the liner constantly rubbing against the paint on the bed bottom but not providing any protection to the metal that was bared as a result?

 

I understand the idea of "why would I scrub all that factory paint off?", but you have to realize it's a trade-off. You purposefully remove some of the paint to create a surface that the liner can completely adhere to. In return, you get a coating that does NOT come off and leave the metal exposed so that it could rust. And, in the process, it also helps to protect the metal in terms of its shape so that it doesn't get all dented up and gives you a little bit of traction to keep stuff from sliding around in the bed.

 

IMHO, you "get" way more than you "give".

 

Those of you that did line x. Was it the line x standard, premium or platinum? Standard line x is $475 and Premium Is $575 around here.

 

Also I was told by Line x that I cannot do over the rails cause of the plastic guards on the bed. Apparently they clip in and some other bs, anyone heard different?

 

True "Over the Rails" would be for the previous gen trucks and older because the current ones have factory rail caps. However, I still have them spray up over the front rail.

 

I have the factory drop in liner. Then I put a bed mat on top of it. The mat doesn't lay perfect but not bad either. If you went that route you could protect your sides and went you need a slick surface just toss out the mat or roll it it to front.

 

Would be interested in knowing how those ten holes that they drilled into your bed are holding up.

[MikeNH]

 

$500 for Line-X, $375 for drop-in. Not a terribly huge difference.

 

 

It looks interesting, but their marketing partially FUD-based (Fear, Uncertainty, Dread). I've never seen a drop-in liner that blocks water underneath from reaching the drain holes. But, for the price ($419), why not get Line-X? It's MUCH more durable for bottom-of-the-bed protection.

 

 

Would you be ok with the factory drop-in liner? You know, the one where they drill ten holes into your bed and tailgate with self-tapping screws to mount it? How about the liner constantly rubbing against the paint on the bed bottom but not providing any protection to the metal that was bared as a result?

 

I understand the idea of "why would I scrub all that factory paint off?", but you have to realize it's a trade-off. You purposefully remove some of the paint to create a surface that the liner can completely adhere to. In return, you get a coating that does NOT come off and leave the metal exposed so that it could rust. And, in the process, it also helps to protect the metal in terms of its shape so that it doesn't get all dented up and gives you a little bit of traction to keep stuff from sliding around in the bed.

 

IMHO, you "get" way more than you "give".

 

 

True "Over the Rails" would be for the previous gen trucks and older because the current ones have factory rail caps. However, I still have them spray up over the front rail.

 

 

Would be interested in knowing how those ten holes that they drilled into your bed are holding up.

 

 

 

I'm not defending drop-in liners at all. I think they're garbage. Zero reason to spend tens of thousands of dollars on a new truck and then skimp by running that plastic junk. I'm not in a pickup now but my last two had Line-X and any in the future will have a spray-in from them or the manufacturer too.

[ember1205]

 

 

 

I'm not defending drop-in liners at all. I think they're garbage. Zero reason to spend tens of thousands of dollars on a new truck and then skimp by running that plastic junk. I'm not in a pickup now but my last two had Line-X and any in the future will have a spray-in from them or the manufacturer too.

 

I didn't comment on your post to say anything "bad" towards you. I was just adding some context so that others that come along later will see that it really isn't a major cost-upgrade.

 

I always had drop-in liners. I knew they weren't good for the bottom of the bed, but I didn't care because the longest I ever owned a truck was four years (and I had bought it new). I bought a '15 Sierra SLE back in Feburuary and had them put the GM liner in as part of the deal. The following weekend, I attempted to install a Bak tonneau (hard-fold). It wasn't fitting right, and I thought I might be able to clean it up by "adjusting" the position of the liner. That's when I realized that the "drop-in" liner required being attached to the bed with self-tapping screws - two at the rear, six along the front rail, and two at the bottom of the tailgate. Ten screws. Drilled right through my brand new paint and brand new bed.

 

Needless to say, I was pi$$ed beyond belief and went right back to the dealership about this. They pulled the drop-in and had the truck sprayed with Line-X. The installer was able to smooth over all of the holes from the drop-in and made it look like it should while also sealing up the exposed metal where the screws came out.

 

I just swapped my double cab for a crew and had Line-X done again - this is how I will go from now on.

[ewbldavis]

Good info from everyone. Thanks!

 

Unfortunately, truck I decided on already had the GM plastic liner. I asked for it to be removed, and they wouldn't take it out. I leased, so we will see if/when I buy it out about either a new spray on, or I may roll-on some out of a can stuff to protect bed under the GM liner.

 

I think the "quality" tier depends on what you use your truck for. The basic 275 PSI would be fine for me - Most of the "rough" loading is firewood.

 

Local guy does Line-X bed liners AND undercoating - I will definitely undercoat when I buy.

[ember1205]

Good info from everyone. Thanks!

 

Unfortunately, truck I decided on already had the GM plastic liner. I asked for it to be removed, and they wouldn't take it out. I leased, so we will see if/when I buy it out about either a new spray on, or I may roll-on some out of a can stuff to protect bed under the GM liner.

 

I think the "quality" tier depends on what you use your truck for. The basic 275 PSI would be fine for me - Most of the "rough" loading is firewood.

 

Local guy does Line-X bed liners AND undercoating - I will definitely undercoat when I buy.

 

If it were me (and, believe me - I really WISH I could lease but I drive way too much), I would drive it hard and use it hard. Turn it in at the end and walk away. If it held up really well, BUY one. The Sales Manager at the dealer where I bought my Sierra told me that the lease terms have gotten beyond ridiculous to where it makes much more sense to buy them many times (especially when GM is running their heavy discounts).

[GMC207]

 

If it were me (and, believe me - I really WISH I could lease but I drive way too much), I would drive it hard and use it hard. Turn it in at the end and walk away. If it held up really well, BUY one. The Sales Manager at the dealer where I bought my Sierra told me that the lease terms have gotten beyond ridiculous to where it makes much more sense to buy them many times (especially when GM is running their heavy discounts).

I agree. The lease terms end up costing more then just buying and then trading in a year or 2 down the road in my experience.

[ewbldavis]

It must depend on when/what offers there are. My original plan was to purchase a 2011 or newer, but at the time they were selling for $30K plus with 40K miles on them.

 

I leased for less than I could by used (even with super-low financing), and WAY less than what new would have been (at least payment wise). I saved about $3500 from MSRP. Yes, this isn't $12K like some, but I didn't go top of the line either. Buyout is $26K...which will work well for me.

 

I'd like to beat it up, but I really like the truck and at this point plan on buying it out. I have always had GM, so I know what to expect. For us, leasing then buying seems a good idea as I can turn it in if there are any problems or if I decide I need a 2500 to haul our travel trailer.

[GMC207]

It must depend on when/what offers there are. My original plan was to purchase a 2011 or newer, but at the time they were selling for $30K plus with 40K miles on them.

 

I leased for less than I could by used (even with super-low financing), and WAY less than what new would have been (at least payment wise). I saved about $3500 from MSRP. Yes, this isn't $12K like some, but I didn't go top of the line either. Buyout is $26K...which will work well for me.

 

I'd like to beat it up, but I really like the truck and at this point plan on buying it out. I have always had GM, so I know what to expect. For us, leasing then buying seems a good idea as I can turn it in if there are any problems or if I decide I need a 2500 to haul our travel trailer.

I really wanted to lease but they werent offering anything great for lease offers at the time. I dont drive too much so it def makes sense to lease and then with the option to buy after would be great. Its like testing it out first and seeing what you think.

[ember1205]

I really wanted to lease but they werent offering anything great for lease offers at the time. I dont drive too much so it def makes sense to lease and then with the option to buy after would be great. Its like testing it out first and seeing what you think.

 

I personally feel this is a poor approach.

 

At the end of a lease, you're at the end of your warranty, and THEN you're taking out a loan to finance the purchase. You end up paying for the vehicle for EIGHT YEARS, sometimes longer. And, the interest rates you get on the purchase, because it's a used vehicle at that point, aren't not very good compared to what you get for a new one.

 

It ends up costing you quite a bit over the duration of ownership because of the amount of interest you pay, and at five years old it's worth WAY less than what you owe on it. It's a risky scenario to put yourself in financially.

 

If you like the idea of it being sort of a "try before you buy", then take a short lease (two years) and buy a brand new one (presuming you would be buying the same generation vehicle at that point). Or, turn the lease in early to make a purchase. When you buy a leased vehicle at the end of the lease, your buyout is what they calculated as a residual value. One of the ways they get the lease payment lowered is by artificially inflating that number to decrease the amount that needs to be financed. Current lease offers are not as overly optimistic about residual values as ones from the past, but they WANT you buy the lease out at the end because they end up making a killing on it.

[GMC207]

 

I personally feel this is a poor approach.

 

At the end of a lease, you're at the end of your warranty, and THEN you're taking out a loan to finance the purchase. You end up paying for the vehicle for EIGHT YEARS, sometimes longer. And, the interest rates you get on the purchase, because it's a used vehicle at that point, aren't not very good compared to what you get for a new one.

 

It ends up costing you quite a bit over the duration of ownership because of the amount of interest you pay, and at five years old it's worth WAY less than what you owe on it. It's a risky scenario to put yourself in financially.

 

If you like the idea of it being sort of a "try before you buy", then take a short lease (two years) and buy a brand new one (presuming you would be buying the same generation vehicle at that point). Or, turn the lease in early to make a purchase. When you buy a leased vehicle at the end of the lease, your buyout is what they calculated as a residual value. One of the ways they get the lease payment lowered is by artificially inflating that number to decrease the amount that needs to be financed. Current lease offers are not as overly optimistic about residual values as ones from the past, but they WANT you buy the lease out at the end because they end up making a killing on it.

Thanks for that. I don't know much about leasing as ive never done it, but now feel much better having bought my truck for a great price rather then getting screwed by the dealer worse then I already am.

[ewbldavis]

 

I personally feel this is a poor approach.

 

At the end of a lease, you're at the end of your warranty, and THEN you're taking out a loan to finance the purchase. You end up paying for the vehicle for EIGHT YEARS, sometimes longer. And, the interest rates you get on the purchase, because it's a used vehicle at that point, aren't not very good compared to what you get for a new one.

 

It ends up costing you quite a bit over the duration of ownership because of the amount of interest you pay, and at five years old it's worth WAY less than what you owe on it. It's a risky scenario to put yourself in financially.

 

If you like the idea of it being sort of a "try before you buy", then take a short lease (two years) and buy a brand new one (presuming you would be buying the same generation vehicle at that point). Or, turn the lease in early to make a purchase. When you buy a leased vehicle at the end of the lease, your buyout is what they calculated as a residual value. One of the ways they get the lease payment lowered is by artificially inflating that number to decrease the amount that needs to be financed. Current lease offers are not as overly optimistic about residual values as ones from the past, but they WANT you buy the lease out at the end because they end up making a killing on it.

 

This if off-topic, and for that I apologize...

 

The 56% of the vehicle I am paying for thru the lease is essentially interest free. And as far as warranty goes and the truck being 8 years old, is this really any different than buying used (which until I leased I always bought used)? The residual value (purchase price) on my lease is $26K, to-wit I have owned the truck since brand new and know the history. Matter of opinion I guess, but I would rather spend $26K for a truck I already paid on for 3 years with the lease, than buy a $30K used truck that I have no idea on the history. I also cannot swag a $700 truck payment, so the $460 lease payment with option to drop it off if there were issues worked well for me.

 

They don't want you to buy it. If I buy it, salesman does NOT get credit for that sale. They want you to lease another vehicle (which counts as another sale) so they can resell the used one at $3-4K more than the residual value.

[Chadwilliam1]

I leased mine. I have no regrets. I plan to buy it if it proves to be a good truck but if it becomes a pos I will get rid of it.

[Jaybridge88]

I agree with the Line X fans. I bought my Silverado without any type of liner. Thought about what I wanted to do with the bed for a couple weeks. My brother recommended Line X and knew a shop that did good work. I made an appointment.....but still wasn't sold on line X. It was the most expensive and they have to sand down the bed....on the brand new truck I just bought. So I actually went to the shop a couple days before my appointment to check out their operation. That's when all my doubts went away. This guy was nice enough to show me a truck they were preping and also showed me a truck he just finished. Also while I was at the line x shop someone from a local GM dealer brought a new truck by to have it done. Made me feel better about doing it to my truck. After seeing the process and the finished product I decided to go with Line X Ultra I believe it was called. It suppose to keep its color bc it has UV protection. I have a black truck and got black ultra. I like it a lot better than regular stuff. It's a shiny black vs. a dull greying black. I have no covering on my bed so this liner has been exposed to winter in MA, carrying quads, moving s bunch of stuff, and moving across the country in SD. After a year the liner still looks like it did the day I got it. I'm very satisfied. Will never have anything else in any truck I own. Currently thinking about having the rockers done.

[ember1205]

Just because I'm curious...

 

Does anyone have a Line-X liner and load a snowmobile into the bed of their truck? I'm curious as to how the liner holds up against the studs and the carbides. The one time I loaded a sled directly onto the plastic drop-in that I had in my truck at the time, it chewed it up really badly, especially on the gate. The last time I did this, I used a piece of 1/2" plywood for the sled to sit on and didn't notice any ill effects to the plastic liner.

 

I would be interested in seeing photos of a Line-X liner after transporting a sled a few times.