Oil catch can?

Rock1500 · February 8, 2016

I had my catch can on for less than 1000 miles and I collected this so far.

I should have put a catch can much sooner.

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Rock1500 · February 8, 2016

Correct. Most cans (99%) only trap a small portion of the contaminants as they are very ineffective in design. Almost none take into consideration all the principals of flow dynamics, etc. so even those with coalescing media inside, or baffles, rarely take into consideration what will allow the condensed liquids to still be carried back out with the exiting flow. If the media is within 3" of an outlet, most will be pulled back out a cans outlet as the Bernoulli Principal and the Venturi Effect pick up liquid and carry it with the flow. Plenty other factors come into play, and nearly all are designed purely from assumptions the can designer thought works. Look at a Moroso can for example, (and many others with the same design and construction just labeled different) and you will see two chambers filled with coalescing media. The inlet and outlet are not designated, so no direction of flow specific. The side you use as the inlet will trap these effectively, but the side used as an outlet will saturate as well and as it is tight against the outlet (not the 3" minimum needed) it is the same as taking a wet wash cloth and placing it to your mouth and sucking. You suck water right from it. Now imagine the much stronger and greater flow out of the can...it pulls most of the oil and other compounds right back out. Then you have to look at internal volume. Anything less than close to a quart cannot allow the velocity, or speed of the flow through to slow to the point of the condensed/separated droplets to fall from suspension.

Tons more go into a proper effective design, but will save that.

What if the outlet and the catch can is much further away? Wouldn't that make it better then? That way it would give time for the exhaust to cool a bit and condensate better in the catch can?

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GDI Tech · February 8, 2016

What if the outlet and the catch can is much further away? Wouldn't that make it better then? That way it would give time for the exhaust to cool a bit and condensate better in the catch can?

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The cooler the better for the condensing function, but in -20* F that can also freeze the contents to a slush when not running.

Silverado-Hareek · February 9, 2016

The cooler the better for the condensing function, but in -20* F that can also freeze the contents to a slush when not running.

You don't think the contents are freezing anyway when the truck sits over night? I drained my catch can into an oil pan the first time I drained it last winter (about 6 oz of milky looking oil/water combo) and I left it outside over night and the mixture was a solid sheet of ice in the morning. Maybe it wouldn't have been as frozen if it sat in the engine bay where it stayed warm for a while longer and the mixture isn't spread out into a thin layer like it was in the oil pan?

EDIT: And that was only 14 or 15 degrees F, not minus. Also as long as the can isn't over full, the frozen mixture shouldn't affect anything because the gases/vapors will still be able to enter and exit the can when you start it the next morning. It's just the reservoir at the bottom that's frozen solid, right?

Edited February 9, 2016 by Silverado-Hareek

GDI Tech · February 9, 2016

Yes, this mixture will turn to slush when well below freezing, but after running up to operating temp it quickly thaws and can then be drained (with engine off). That is why a "cathcan" cannot be a cheap glued together assy.

Good questions!!!

fondupot · February 10, 2016

Its always a good idea to just drain the can after you have been driving for a while anyways. Makes sure you get all the gunk out while its hot!

beast 10 · February 11, 2016

Its always a good idea to just drain the can after you have been driving for a while anyways. Makes sure you get all the gunk out while its hot!

I agree it probably makes it much better to drain. That was also a deciding factor for me in going with the ADD W1 CC, you can drain it and clean it out cold or warm and see whats inside .

HondaHawkGT · February 12, 2016

You don't think the contents are freezing anyway when the truck sits over night? I drained my catch can into an oil pan the first time I drained it last winter (about 6 oz of milky looking oil/water combo) and I left it outside over night and the mixture was a solid sheet of ice in the morning. Maybe it wouldn't have been as frozen if it sat in the engine bay where it stayed warm for a while longer and the mixture isn't spread out into a thin layer like it was in the oil pan?

EDIT: And that was only 14 or 15 degrees F, not minus. Also as long as the can isn't over full, the frozen mixture shouldn't affect anything because the gases/vapors will still be able to enter and exit the can when you start it the next morning. It's just the reservoir at the bottom that's frozen solid, right?

I've had it frozen solid when temps dip down below zero.

GDI Tech · February 12, 2016

Always look at the most effective as well as the features each has. Again why the E2-X systems are so attractive. Come apart if you should choose to clean (usually not needed) and the nice 1/4 turn drain valve system is easy as can be:

krdeal · February 13, 2016

If this picture was on your Web site, I'll bet you would sell more of them! Instead you just picture the can and make no mention of all of the goodies....

GDI Tech · February 13, 2016

Great suggestion. Let me pass it on to them.

glcbn · February 13, 2016

If this picture was on your Web site, I'll bet you would sell more of them! Instead you just picture the can and make no mention of all of the goodies....

I agree. I had no idea what kind of fittings I was getting with the E2-X single valve kit I purchased a couple weeks ago. The fittings that are pictured in the can are what I got, and I assumed (yeah I know) they were for braided and not plain rubber hose. I went and bought new fittings from Summit Racing, just to find out after I installed my can, I could have used those supplied fittings afterall. A member had posted pics of his install with those same ones. They look better too. So when the weather breaks I will change them out.

GDI TECH, you mentioned to a member in a post ( don't know which thread) to get the dual valve, as it will evacuate better. Well, before I committed, I asked on your website if the dual valve was better, and would it make a difference. I really wanted the dual, but was told that the single is all that was needed for my application. So, the single it was. Now I read after the fact, the dual would have been better! A bit disappointed to say the least.

BTW, the product and parts supplied are awesome!