Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Dont do it. It is perfect the way it stands right now. The two inch drop shackle gives the truck a perfect stance. Leaves the back just 1 inch higher than the front. I have the same drop on my truck. I was going to take the blocks out too but loved the stance like it is. Here is a pick I took after the new exhaust.

6etevugu.jpg

 

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

What brand of tires are you running? I am running 305/45/22 Yokohama. I took these tires and wheels off my 2010 and I will have to replace them probably next year and I am looking for something else.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Got my 3/5 DJM kit on today. Going to take the rear lifting shackles that came with the kit and put the stock shackles back on for a total of a 3/6 drop. I had used my 1/4" aluminum block in the rear with the flip so it sits up about 3/4" high right now. Without that block and the stock shackles it should sit perfect.

 

885A057F-5654-4FE9-9E2E-C92DAB493F3A_zps

Edited by brentadams646
  • Like 3
Posted

I do, here is mine with the belltech rear 2" drop shackle kit on my 2014 All Terrain. Before and after....

 

before

1471956_787280251297858_316583635_n.jpg

 

 

after

999457_787280264631190_83598123_n.jpg

what all did u have to get to level ur truck? just the shackles?

Posted

Good choice of wheels! I've seen many here in the forum, and those look great on your truck.

 

Here is a pick I took
6etevugu.jpg

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

What brand of tires are you running? I am running 305/45/22 Yokohama. I took these tires and wheels off my 2010 and I will have to replace them probably next year and I am looking for something else.

305/40/22
Posted

305/40/22

Thanks! I am debating on going back with 305/45/22 or switching to 305/40/22. i got a killer price on a Falken t305/40/22 yesterday . $140 ea.

  • Like 1
Posted

I apologize if this has been covered somewhere already, I did search around and didn't find anything that specifically answered my question though. My question is, if I move the lower strut mount to the bottom of the spindle, like is done with the 2/4 drop, but I do not use the 1/4" spacer, how much drop will I get? I saw a post where a member put up a diagram showing that spacers create double the lift/drop that they are in thickness. So if I do not install the 1/4" spacer that is provided with a kit, will I get 1.5" of drop rather than 2"? Any help would be appreciated.

 

I installed the McGaughys 2" drop shackles and removed the 1.25" block already, and the rear of the truck now sits .5" lower in the back. My hope is that by relocating the bottom strut mount for the front suspension, I'll get the truck back to being 1" higher in the back for a tiny bit of rake, and less wheel well gap.

 

Thanks in advance, this forum is awesome!

Posted (edited)

Thanks! I am debating on going back with 305/45/22 or switching to 305/40/22. i got a killer price on a Falken t305/40/22 yesterday . $140 ea.

Do it. Good price.

 

 

Anyone have a link to a set of shorter U bolts they purchased for rear block removal?

Edited by whodatfan
Posted

Do it. Good price.

 

 

Anyone have a link to a set of shorter U bolts they purchased for rear block removal?

GM part # 15002781 is what I plan on using when I do mine. That's the u bolt from a 2wd NBS when they used to come without blocks from the factory. Not cheep but I like to know the bolts holding my axle in are quality stuff
Posted

I have a issue and it couldn't have came at a worse time as I'm moving to Arizona On Monday and I have no idea what is going on. I had my 2" lowering shackle kit installed 2 weeks ago and since I've put about 250 miles on the truck with no issues and today out of no where something started knocking in the rear end area of the truck. Not all the time just every so often. But enough to get very annoying. I followed all the guidelines on the thread to install them (folding bed seems and such) I checked under the truck and everything is still nice and tight so I'm not sure what I should do.. I don't have any of the needed tools to take anything apart or install the stocks back on. I'm hoping is something dumb cause quite a few ppl have them installed and have no issues. It's a quad cab short bed truck. Thanks for any input it's down to the wire now and everyone's closed today

 

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Posted

Just go by a 13/16" socket, ratchet and wrench and make sure everything is tight.

Posted

I have a issue and it couldn't have came at a worse time as I'm moving to Arizona On Monday and I have no idea what is going on. I had my 2" lowering shackle kit installed 2 weeks ago and since I've put about 250 miles on the truck with no issues and today out of no where something started knocking in the rear end area of the truck. Not all the time just every so often. But enough to get very annoying. I followed all the guidelines on the thread to install them (folding bed seems and such) I checked under the truck and everything is still nice and tight so I'm not sure what I should do.. I don't have any of the needed tools to take anything apart or install the stocks back on. I'm hoping is something dumb cause quite a few ppl have them installed and have no issues. It's a quad cab short bed truck. Thanks for any input it's down to the wire now and everyone's closed today

 

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

I had to remove my shackles I bought for my truck the shackles everyone is selling are for the 07-13 models even though they are listed for the 14's The shackles on the 14's are a tad bit wider, so when putting the older body shackles on, it allows for the shackles to rock back and forth making a popping noise when turning or backing up. I have a picture somewhere of my shackles but can't post it here at work.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I only have a few of the ACDelco blue remaining. One or two of the (old, old) ACDelco Professional boxes, and a couple of the newer style GM boxes with the simulcast in Chinese along with English. FWIW they've all been pretty good, regardless of where they are made, and in 20 years I've never had a problem with an e-core filter.   Now I have a couple of the "A" series in my home inventory. They come in a plain white box with the GM hologram sticker and model information. Have not installed one yet, want to use up my oldest inventory first.
    • Compression test? Weird noises? Fuel trims?
    • I suspect at some point in the near future, the hardware will be free and you pay a subscription to access the vehicle - alldata style.
    • I've been eyeing an upgrade to my tonneau cover for a bit now.  Intrigued by the BAK MX4 EZ-Lift with the torsion spring and went for the upgrade.  Thoughts and musings during unpacking, install and a few days of usage.   Once my order went into Realtruck, it took about 4 days to ship.  Unfortunately, FedEx Ground destroyed the box and contents and it was unusable upon receipt.  To Realtruck's credit, one email with pictures and an RMA was sent to me to send the first one back, and another unit was shipped out.  It arrived 3 days later, unscathed.   I opened the box and it looked like every other BAK MX4.   Biggest differences are the rails and retaining clamps, and of course the spring attached to the cover itself.     NOTE - if you are upgrading from a MX4 to the EZ-Lift, you will have to replace the rails.  The EZ-Lift rails have a notch cut in them to allow the new style retaining clamps to fit properly.  The new retaining clamps also have 2 knobs/carriage bolts and there are two tracks underneath the front panel. The strap clips are mildly different (more like the Undercover Flex clamps) in that the screws go in from the underside.  Personally I prefer these over the BAK clamps that use the nutserts that are a nuisance to install.  The remainder of the parts in the box (drain tubes, rail clamps, and bumper pads) are standard issue BAK.     I did not replace my front bed seal at the time because it seemed to be in decent shape.   BAK recommends shims on the GM trucks unless you place the clamps on the flanges about 1/3 of the way in from both the front and rear of the bed.  I shimmed the front and the middle, and initially placed the clamps equidistant.  This also turned out to be a mistake, because when I set the cover in place, the new style retaining clamps wouldn't clear the front clamp.   New style clamp inserted in the track:     And the issue which occurred because the front rail clamp was too far forward:     Once I removed the shim from the front of the bed, and slid the clamp back to the front flange, everything cleared fine.     The cover set on the rails without issue and I installed the strap clamps.  After I completed my adjustments, I pulled the pin to activate the torsion spring.  Mistake #3 on my part.  PULL THE PIN AS THE VERY VERY VERY LAST STEP!  The reason is, once you pull the pin, the torsion spring is activated.  If you have to loosen the front clamps and adjust the cover, the front panel will - by virtue of the spring, refuse to lay down.  The only way to get it to lay down so you can reinstall and tighten the clamps is to fully open the panel against the back of the cab, which will then allow the front panel of the cover to lay down and be tightened.  Not a big deal unless you haven't installed the foam pads yet (typically the last step) because minus the foam pads, you will need to place something between the frame of the cover and the back window so it doesn't get scratched.  The next time I install one I will install the foam pads before I pull the pin and activate the spring.   After using it for a few days:   The spring assist is great.  You literally can open it with one hand.  My shoulders aren't getting any younger and this was part of my motivation to swap out. The second panel latches and unlatches itself as you open and close the cover.  Neat in concept, however it took me a minute to get used to closing the cover and not hearing the "latching" sound that would tell me it was locked in place. The paddle handles are a huge upgrade and I wouldn't be surprised to see them become the standard across the Realtruck line.  They effectively eliminate the concern that a thief could coat hanger the cover open and get to the contents in the bed. I'm not sure why the very front panel on my cover has a different finish from the other 3 panels.  I have a request into Realtruck to find out if mine was not manufactured properly or if it was by design.   All in all I'm pleased.  Same level of protection, looks good, keeps stuff mostly dry (they all leak around the tailgate) and easy to install.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...