Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
1 more measurement while you're at it  center of hub to the fender. In the rear please.    I think I'm lifting mine to 6
I just saw this, I'll have that pic for you shortly

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Posted
1 hour ago, lovelessjl said:

Ask and ye shall receive a53b27d7d1a99b15a3b102276010a5a3.jpg

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

That will bring my rear up 1/2"  screw it. I'm going up to 6.  Barely a difference    thank you 

  • Like 1
Posted

Nasty, I ended up trimming the axle pads to resolve the issue I was having with my notch. Gonna set it back down to 8" in the next few weeks to see what happens. I don't think removing spacers from the struts is gonna bring it down to level though...so 7 might be where it stays until next year.

Posted
11 hours ago, lovelessjl said:

Ask and ye shall receive a53b27d7d1a99b15a3b102276010a5a3.jpg

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

 

what does your front measure at? 

 

Posted
On 4/20/2018 at 5:08 PM, lovelessjl said:

Thank you! My truck is a 4x4 so I had to do it a little different than most guys with 2wd trucks. I have 2" spindles with stock shocks and 2" lowering springs up front, and a flip kit in the rear set at 5 in that pic but next week I'll be bringing the rear to 6".

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

What spindles? I ordered the 2" springs this morning.  What size tires are you running? 

Posted
What spindles? I ordered the 2" springs this morning.  What size tires are you running? 
I used mcgaughys spindles #34204. I'm running 305/40/22 Nittos, they rub at full steering lock and on big bumps, but otherwise the truck drives great

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Posted

Hi, new here. Very informative thread. I also have a 2017 4WD rcsb LT black. Currently leveled by 2” Belltech shackles and block removed.  Wanting to lower more to 4/7. 

 

For the rear: Waiting for the parts to be shipped, a mcgaughys flip kit 34147 and 2210FF Shocks Belltech.

 

As for the front, I also placed an order for a 4” DJM CA2515-4. 

 

If you guys can help me out here, I have been reading the latest postings and I noticed that no one uses Control Arms to lower theirs, most of you(except for one post that has, if I remembered it right 30k+ clicks with it) uses spindles , springs, structs.

 

Am afraid now that I may be in a wrong direction as to lowering my front. Very new to this that’s why I need advices. Tnxs

Posted
On 4/25/2018 at 9:45 AM, Heavy_Static said:

Nasty, I ended up trimming the axle pads to resolve the issue I was having with my notch. Gonna set it back down to 8" in the next few weeks to see what happens. I don't think removing spacers from the struts is gonna bring it down to level though...so 7 might be where it stays until next year.

What do you mean trimmed the pad?

Posted
24 minutes ago, 204-WPG said:

Hi, new here. Very informative thread. I also have a 2017 4WD rcsb LT black. Currently leveled by 2” Belltech shackles and block removed.  Wanting to lower more to 4/7. 

 

For the rear: Waiting for the parts to be shipped, a mcgaughys flip kit 34147 and 2210FF Shocks Belltech.

 

As for the front, I also placed an order for a 4” DJM CA2515-4. 

 

If you guys can help me out here, I have been reading the latest postings and I noticed that no one uses Control Arms to lower theirs, most of you(except for one post that has, if I remembered it right 30k+ clicks with it) uses spindles , springs, structs.

 

Am afraid now that I may be in a wrong direction as to lowering my front. Very new to this that’s why I need advices. Tnxs

Do your self a favor and just do a 6 in the back.  Return the control arms for struts and spindles 

Posted
28 minutes ago, Nasty said:

Do your self a favor and just do a 6 in the back.  Return the control arms for struts and spindles 

Tnxs, any suggestions on part numbers? So, this was my initial problem, getting the right parts on 4WDs.

 

and by the way, if I may ask just so I know,  what’s the problem with control arms?

 

 

Posted
37 minutes ago, 204-WPG said:

Tnxs, any suggestions on part numbers? So, this was my initial problem, getting the right parts on 4WDs.

 

and by the way, if I may ask just so I know,  what’s the problem with control arms?

 

 

I've had issues with every djm part I've ever had. Especially the control arms.  I just removed 2sets kn the last few months from local peoples trucks.   They dont ride well, and the balljounts are crap

Posted



Tnxs, any suggestions on part numbers? So, this was my initial problem, getting the right parts on 4WDs.
 
 


I have a 4wd 2016 RCSB. My truck is lowered 4/6 with spindles and springs up front, the spindles are part number 34204 from mcgaughys, and I used maxtrac 2" springs, then a flip kit in the rear. Love driving this truck around.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Google converting 98 4.3 spider injection to carburetor if all else fails. 
    • My centre console USB ports haven’t been working and the one in the glovebox is starting to act up. When I plug my phone into the cord the radio will go black and stop playing, and the CarPlay is inconsistent.   I checked the fuses and they were fine. I changed the USB port out and still nothing. Hoping for some advice on what I should be looking at.  
    • The truck is a 1995 Chevrolet S10 Blazer, 4.3 VIN "W" engine. :cracks knuckles:   On a whim - because I needed a headache - this truck was for sale so I stopped to take a look. Doesn't run. Well, it does, but barely. Long crank, choppy idle, bad misfire(s), it REEKS of fuel. I can DO this..I'm thinking. Diamond in the rough. One owner until last year. A young guy is selling it, he bought it 6 months ago. It stranded him more than once, he's got a newborn. It was in the shop 10 days ago and he "thinks" they said it needs a new fuel injection system. He can't put any more money into it, needs it gone. I was thinking of upgrading my Macbook, which is a total want, not a need. For less than the price of a new laptop I can have fun for months tinkering on this truck and enjoying it. I'm taking this truck home. The guy was beyond thrilled, his wife was there, she thanked me profusely, I could tell they were hurting. They seemed like good people in a bind.   Some parts, a wash, maybe a set of tires, and I can have a few months of fun and then turn it for beer money (or the next project).   Sure enough, there's a work order from a shop last week in the INCHES of paperwork on this truck dating back to when the first owner bought it. They put a new distributor in it, fuel injection work describes basically opening the plenum and putting it back together. He said he couldn't afford any more work so he had them button it up and that's when he put it up for sale.   I'm not well versed in 4.3. I did discover 1995 uses the 1992-1995 SCPI "Spider" injector which is riddled with issues from splitting lines, clogged or cracked poppet valves and plastic spider legs that crumble over time. Cool. I'll just order me a ne---. Oh, the auto parts store doesn't have it? Rock Auto doesn't have it. eBay? $$$$$$ for used. These are UNAVAILABLE period end of story unless you know "a guy" who's still got one in a box somewhere.   Can't upgrade to the '96-'04 injector, it's a different plenum, wiring/pinout and sensor config.   There are a few kinda "know a guy" -guy rebuild services for these injectors out there for about $350. Okay, Okay... I'd like to know if anyone has used them? Anyone got a lead on these crappy 92-95 spiders?   I also don't want to send MY spider to Narnia and back without knowing if that's truly the problem. I guess I'll need to pull apart the plenum and do some digging.   I was also thrown for a loop. This 1995 model year truck has an OBD-II connector. The interface is decidedly not OBD-II. I can read and reset trouble codes and view live data, but there's not a lot of data. Like misfire count and on what cylinder, that's not there. It's OBD-1.5.   Nothing is ever easy. Now it makes sense why this guy wanted to disappear this thing for cheap. I'm guessing the shop told him the injector is toast, the part is unobtainable and they're not going to sort sending the thing to a rando offering rebuild service on craigslist, and the kid likely can't be without a working car for 3 weeks even if they'd facilitate that.   Experience with these early SCPI's? Stories? Things to check? Sympathy? (..Nah...)   This can sit until I sort it. But I haven't had a problem with a vehicle I couldn't easily solve in a long time.    
    • I have four that read by the dash 8 to 10% better than miles/pump calculations and I have one that is spot on. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...