Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
8 minutes ago, krunch said:

I'm assuming when you mention it helps correct the "Chevy Lean" this is not because of the strut itself, but rather when you have lowering struts you have the ability to "adjust" them via the spacers that are included with them?

 

Thanx,

Krunch

Yes you can adjust the spacers.  My truck has a 1/2" lean to the drivers side. Most of these truck do. So you add1 extra spacer in that side to correct the lean

  • Like 1
Posted
Just want to clarify something in this post as well... You're at 4/6 and with parts above you did not need to replace the OEM shocks or struts?
 
Thanx,
Krunch
Yep, I'm still running stock shocks and struts. I am running the shock extenders in the rear, but kept the shocks.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted
2 minutes ago, Nasty said:

Yes you can adjust the spacers.  My truck has a 1/2" lean to the drivers side. Most of these truck do. So you add1 extra spacer in that side to correct the lean

Or reduce it from the passenger's side I assume :)

 

Krunch

Posted
1 minute ago, krunch said:

Or reduce it from the passenger's side I assume :)

 

Krunch

Yes

Posted

Anybody ever use the maxtrac kit? I'm  in the same boat you are in krunch trying to find a kit to lower my 4x4 and this seems to be a good compromise between the 2/4 and the 4/6 kits or parts that are available. Just wanted to see what peoples take was on the brand and quality? I'm not really wanting to go to low but I also don't want to deal with the wheel not being centered. To the guys running the Mcg spindles are you running the 4x4 specific ones or running the 2wd ones and making them work with the 4x4? Ive noticed they don't have one listed for a 4x4 with cast control arms.

Posted
1 hour ago, G280MX said:

Anybody ever use the maxtrac kit? I'm  in the same boat you are in krunch trying to find a kit to lower my 4x4 and this seems to be a good compromise between the 2/4 and the 4/6 kits or parts that are available. Just wanted to see what peoples take was on the brand and quality? I'm not really wanting to go to low but I also don't want to deal with the wheel not being centered. To the guys running the Mcg spindles are you running the 4x4 specific ones or running the 2wd ones and making them work with the 4x4? Ive noticed they don't have one listed for a 4x4 with cast control arms.

According to the McG site, the 34050 spindle is for OEM cast arms on both 2wd and 4wd. The 34200 spindle is for stamped or aluminum arms, 2wd only. I'm wondering if there is no such thing as a 14-18 truck with 4wd and stamped or aluminum arms maybe? How this applies to Maxtrac? Not sure, haven't looked at their stuff...yet... I was sticking with Bell or McG originally as they were the two that seemed to be most popular, and I assume for good reason.

 

Krunch

Posted

So I sent a request to maxtrac to see if their spindles keep the wheel centered in the wheel well. We will see what their response is. I really hate piecing stuff together but if I have to piece a kit together I think I will go the mcgaughys route since they seem to be the most popular for bot lowered or lifted applications. I will post the response when I get it.

Posted
4 minutes ago, G280MX said:

So I sent a request to maxtrac to see if their spindles keep the wheel centered in the wheel well. We will see what their response is. I really hate piecing stuff together but if I have to piece a kit together I think I will go the mcgaughys route since they seem to be the most popular for bot lowered or lifted applications. I will post the response when I get it.

From what I understand so far, the spindles are the best way to lower. They will give you 2". At least the McG will. A spindle will not cause this. But you can only get 2" of drop from a spindle. So I suspect no issues whatsoever if only lowering 2". If you add another 2" on coils, and another 2" on struts, it will start to become not centered but not as bad as if you lowered 6" without using spindles at all.

 

I'm new here to so if I am wrong, someone correct me.

 

Krunch

Posted
6 minutes ago, krunch said:

From what I understand so far, the spindles are the best way to lower. They will give you 2". At least the McG will. A spindle will not cause this. But you can only get 2" of drop from a spindle. So I suspect no issues whatsoever if only lowering 2". If you add another 2" on coils, and another 2" on struts, it will start to become not centered but not as bad as if you lowered 6" without using spindles at all.

 

I'm new here to so if I am wrong, someone correct me.

 

Krunch

Anything with the arms will cause the wheel to not be centered. But you guys are making it a bigger deal than it really is  going 4" max its fine. You can see it but its bit bad at all. Anymore than that it gets bad  im at 4.5" drop in front and ive kind of forgotte. About it

20181106_141951.jpg

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted

Ok that's not as bad I was thinking it was going to be. I really only want to go 2/4 or 3/5 and Id be happy 4/6 is to much for what I want but who knows I may change my mind after doing a 3/5 lol

Posted
Just now, G280MX said:

Ok that's not as bad I was thinking it was going to be. I really only want to go 2/4 or 3/5 and Id be happy 4/6 is to much for what I want but who knows I may change my mind after doing a 3/5 lol

Do 3/5 first.   And if you want more its easy to adjust.  

  • Thanks 1
Posted

I was actually talking about the angles of the front axle shafts.  you want them as straight as possible.  the lower you go they start to angle up and can bind on turns. using springs or drops shocks will make them angle up,  spindles will keep them straight.  You can do the spindles and springs or drop shocks and keep the recommended angles from a 2'' drop.  Drop shocks with drop springs will put them at an excessive angle and they will most likely really bind up on turns.  

  • Like 1
Posted
9 hours ago, qwank said:

I was actually talking about the angles of the front axle shafts.  you want them as straight as possible.  the lower you go they start to angle up and can bind on turns. using springs or drops shocks will make them angle up,  spindles will keep them straight.  You can do the spindles and springs or drop shocks and keep the recommended angles from a 2'' drop.  Drop shocks with drop springs will put them at an excessive angle and they will most likely really bind up on turns.  

a drop spindle is still going to change the half shaft angle. the "wheel" is still going  up 2 inches no matter what you use to lower it.

Posted
On 10/16/2018 at 3:15 PM, 17gmclowlow said:

Next weekend will be fun. 

Screenshot_20181013-174522_Gmail.jpg

so how did the notch turn out? mine installed very easily.

Posted
4 hours ago, maxpower98 said:

so how did the notch turn out? mine installed very easily.

Sorry. Been busy. I returned the under bed notch and ordered the monster notch and front and rear tubs. Going much lower than I first wanted to 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I will admit I haven't experimented much with pressure drops beyond the numbers I put in and part of that is that the numbers I used are fairly low and then found out it would trigger regardless at that 35 psi. Having said that I had tried before had changed the placard pressures and being that I have a 1 ton set to 80 on the placard for the rear I believe it triggered close to 60, the front I don't recall now for sure but thought maybe it could get close to 45 from that factory 60 placard pressure. So I never did figure out if it was a number of psi from placard pressure to the alarm or a percentage of the total placard number as some figured it was like a 25% drop from placard pressure would trigger it. So as to try and answer your question, I believe I set the placard pressure on the front to 47 or so and while I run the front tires at 40, they have dipped below that some if its colder and I haven't put "winter air" in yet and never once have had the front alarm go off. I would say that the answer your looking for is no, that if you set your placard pressure to 45, you have a certain amount of room to drop below that pressure before the alarm will go off.    The pressures you decide to run in your truck, that ends up being what makes sense to you based on what your carrying in your truck or if towing, then have to bump them back up to something that will carry the load in the rear and the fronts typically left at the same pressure. It all comes down to that chart I put the link to and using an accurate roadside scale to be your guide, both unloaded and then loaded to know your minimum safe pressures.    I just wish GM would allow a person to change the readings for the tire pressures to the English system of pounds as I have to look at that goofy metric reading that will never ever jive in my head and will go over and change it just to figure out what they are if need be and then change it back. 
    • That part I understand, that the dealer can do it. But I'm not understanding why updates that were available to the truck since it left the factory, or the dealership originally, would not still be available to it without dealer intervention.   I'm thinking along the lines of recalls. They stay available until they are completed. Why not updates as well, especially since some of those can be safety related also?
    • That's good to know, but I don't think I'll even be running them under 45 in the rear  unless it's on the sand or something but will only be for a short distance anyways!    I didn't read all the instructions in the booklet yet, but do you know let's say I set the rear psi on the placard to 45, will the warning light come on soon as it drops under 45 or is there a percentage it has to drop from the set value before the warning light is triggered?
    • That's bad.  Like, its probably destroying the stub axle the CV slides into.   Do you have a proper lift installed with differential lowering brackets?  Did you install AT4/Trail Boss factory CV axles?  
    • Hot? New Jersey? Today? I was working on my old 2000 Silverado 1500 today. Believe me, it was boiling hot today. As it has been.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...