Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
5 hours ago, Ag76 said:

Jason, who did the installation?

a guy named Erik Lopez out of Duncanville, TX.  I can send you his number if you would like.  He used to do the dealership installs and now has his own custom shop.

  • Like 1
Posted

2in RC level, added 305/55/20 Toyo OC A/T2s and finally washed the truck. I have a little rubbing at full lock on the carpet fender lining but so far so good. 

IMG_0297.JPG

  • Like 3
Posted
13 hours ago, chrispassas21 said:

I posted this in the black silverado/Sierra section but thought I’d post here too. 3 hours later and the beast is looking pretty damn good. ab608fee2438d1a74f4f8f9fbfdb4800.jpg95a73d29b1976f63dac07c3fc482b7a7.jpgf24f0c7fb55814f213401c08369be264.jpg


2015 Silverado LT Midnight Edition
4.5” CST suspension lift
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Look's Good - Did you take the Z71 emblem off the door ??

Posted
Look's Good - Did you take the Z71 emblem off the door ??

Nope just washed it as is, I don’t have the balls to take any of the emblems off. [emoji23]


2015 Silverado LT Midnight Edition
4.5” CST suspension lift
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
2 hours ago, chrispassas21 said:


Nope just washed it as is, I don’t have the balls to take any of the emblems off. emoji23.png


2015 Silverado LT Midnight Edition
4.5” CST suspension lift
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

only emblems on my truck are the Bowties (Front /Rear) and the Z71 (door's /grill) other were removed at dealership , along with the dealership name .

  • Like 1
Posted

Performed the Front Seat Lateral Movement and/or Click Type Noise Bulletin. Bulletin # PI1366.

[mention=170089]justin101714[/mention] for the bulletin # and advice. Took about 30 minutes and $18. I’m still under warranty but doing it myself versus losing a day leaving it with the dealer was worth it. I can also share pics of the work everyone here [emoji4]

 

b6689cdce7d0e73720957cdb8766fc2f.jpg

 

db187307f4c6f705d1866107b942b88e.jpg

 

6a2f922228d327103e7b36adb84dea81.jpg

 

43f909c16f65a58a0f66c69efa3c03f2.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

 

  • Like 2
Posted
Performed the Front Seat Lateral Movement and/or Click Type Noise Bulletin. Bulletin # PI1366.

[mention=170089]justin101714[/mention] for the bulletin # and advice. Took about 30 minutes and $18. I’m still under warranty but doing it myself versus losing a day leaving it with the dealer was worth it. I can also share pics of the work everyone here [emoji4]

 

b6689cdce7d0e73720957cdb8766fc2f.jpg

 

db187307f4c6f705d1866107b942b88e.jpg

 

6a2f922228d327103e7b36adb84dea81.jpg

 

43f909c16f65a58a0f66c69efa3c03f2.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

 

Since you’ve had all but the kitchen sink taken apart at some point on your truck lol, you have any ideas on what goes into replacing the haptic motor? I’ve had my left one replaced under warranty. Ever since then, I’ve noticed that the right side is a noticeably softer/muted vibration than the new left one. I’d say it’s on its way out eventually, it’s been bugging me. You can actually hear the new one vibrating from the passenger seat, old Right side is hardly noticeable.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted
Since you’ve had all but the kitchen sink taken apart at some point on your truck lol, you have any ideas on what goes into replacing the haptic motor? I’ve had my left one replaced under warranty. Ever since then, I’ve noticed that the right side is a noticeably softer/muted vibration than the new left one. I’d say it’s on its way out eventually, it’s been bugging me. You can actually hear the new one vibrating from the passenger seat, old Right side is hardly noticeable.
 
 
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Have not had a reason to get that far into the seat.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

Had a couple of hours to burn...

DVD/BluRay Retrofit - Work in Progress. The Cd Player has a different input connector than the DVD/BluRay so I had to do some repinning.

While at it, I added the JL Audio Bass Knob, new RCA Cables for the Axxess DSP, and new Glove Box.

8ce39d325021725aba08525051c8e1a6.jpg

171e2d1c39fb6677665567858f049330.jpg

274e96defd7fbe3882698e210e299049.jpg

ba099bc30730220061268c88b764c623.jpg

df812bb74f4f83cec73e13c9ba4c9ac5.jpg

d603b4e83edd6749796b03988a9da1ed.jpg

63eea44edd7eccf44447176f02e72aa7.jpg

1e8a9b9ffbfa92cb1f342ae4904c9bd5.jpg

50c6176ef7a79a1677e6f3defb6e45fb.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 4
Posted

Hey Phil I purchased the DVD upgrade from MVI and had to send my hmi to White automotive and the screen to MVI for them to do something with the screen as well as the programming to the hmi. Not sure exactly what they did but just thought you should know.

  • Like 1
Posted
Hey Phil I purchased the DVD upgrade from MVI and had to send my hmi to White automotive and the screen to MVI for them to do something with the screen as well as the programming to the hmi. Not sure exactly what they did but just thought you should know.

Yep. I understand all the requirements :). Just finally had some time to get things going. I also have the flip down screen yet to install.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
1 hour ago, pgamboa said:

Had a couple of hours to burn...

DVD/BluRay Retrofit - Work in Progress. The Cd Player has a different input connector than the DVD/BluRay so I had to do some repinning.

While at it, I added the JL Audio Bass Knob, new RCA Cables for the Axxess DSP, and new Glove Box.

8ce39d325021725aba08525051c8e1a6.jpg

171e2d1c39fb6677665567858f049330.jpg

274e96defd7fbe3882698e210e299049.jpg

ba099bc30730220061268c88b764c623.jpg

df812bb74f4f83cec73e13c9ba4c9ac5.jpg

d603b4e83edd6749796b03988a9da1ed.jpg

63eea44edd7eccf44447176f02e72aa7.jpg

1e8a9b9ffbfa92cb1f342ae4904c9bd5.jpg

50c6176ef7a79a1677e6f3defb6e45fb.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Is this a way to run a factory CD/blue ray player, if you did not have the option prior? Also did this negate the issues of using mvi and white auto?

  • Like 1
Posted

be7f033b400b84da038262044902dd6e.jpg

e201b9f025ad6231c54470009d158244.jpg

ddcfbbe028128fc072ce45ce9bf9ab1f.jpg

ebdabda1ef445b147ef26b4ecf769981.jpg

I wish it was to my truck, but I spent almost 8 hours on this thing. Turned out great. The first pic of the wheel is after it was washed. That’s how stained they were. Took about 2.5hrs with some fast cut, but they are like brand new again.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 2
Posted
Is this a way to run a factory CD/blue ray player, if you did not have the option prior? Also did this negate the issues of using mvi and white auto?

Nope. You still need programming done. HMI and DVD Player Programming. I am building my own harnesses.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

Not for my truck, but the next one will be. Wired up this 6 relay/fuse box for additional accessories. Simple power, ground, switch input and accessory output connections. I've got a circuit breaker for the main power also. cae5c11728deca2630d909dfb72f9952.jpg5b328e433cc301a022e3ce98bc273c4a.jpg

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

  • Like 5

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
    • Do you think this width might affect the chalk test with a higher pressure closer to 65psi? I think lowering the pressure makes sense to get the tread to lay flatter
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...