Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

3 2014s with guys I work with and all 3 intermittently won't start. They are swapping the starter on the one. Other two are normal lol. 3 for 3 is a pretty good record lol.

 

 

Sent from the Great White North

Posted (edited)

Update...my salesman called me at 7pm on his way home Last night to make sure the truck was starting and I was happy...off the record he told me that they had a bunch of trucks on the lot do this and GM had them replace the starters in those. He said they ordered a bunch of starters and ran out of them... the last one going in around mid week.

 

I don't know what a "bunch of starters" actually means... but I do know I found a new dealership and a good salesman.

Edited by strike1st
Posted

If the truck will not even crank when the key is turned, this has nothing to do with the exhaust flapper valve.

 

I was thinking this when i hit the flapper and it started right up, that it made no sense that the flapper was the cause. So now i'm waiting for it to happen again.... maybe it is the starter, guess i won't know until it shows its ugly head again!

Posted

Well gang, here I am to join you all. My 2014 GMC (13,000 kms) failed to start this morning at a shopping mall, after 20 minutes of driving time. I got hold of OnStar and they got a tow truck going ASAP. Outside temp was plus 8 c.

 

So, while waiting for the tow truck, I kept trying and got the same result, lot's of available voltage, dash lights up, but no click, just silence. But get this, lock the truck and use the remote start. The truck fired right up (no unusual noise from starter) then ran for 10 seconds then shut down, on it's own. Try the key, no turning over, nothing. Try the remote start again, truck fired up again, then shut down. I did this five or six times. Truck won't stay running with key but does temporarily with remote start.

 

So I sat and waited for the tow truck. Another 20 minutes and the tow truck guy came. I watched him hook up, and just for laughs, I thought I'd try the key again. It fired right up. Duh-oh. Then it worked every time.

 

So I'm thinking this is a heat thing. So I got the guy to leave my GMC running while we towed to my local dealership. We got there, I got the service writer to come out for a demonstration. It started up every time. Double Duh-oh!

 

I've left it there as it needs GM recalls 13330, 14008, 13370, 13257 anyhow.

 

I'll keep you posted.

Posted

Figured I'd go back , give GM another chance at my business, and planned on buying a '14 W/T this week.

 

I'll put myself in standby mode until this issue is figured out. Its supposed to hit -10F this week here.

Posted

'Day folks. Just became a member and thanks for the all info that I have learned while truck shopping. Thought I'd pass along personal experience to the other frustrated owners. My truck was built Aug/2013. Picked it up end of Dec. it was towed by the dealer 3 times in three days. They had it for a week. According to them and GM, a batch of starters did not have a seal cured properly, allowing moisture in. so, when it was cold and it was cold, minus 20 c, the starter would freeze. The cure was to remove the starter cook it in an oven to dry it out and then bake the starter to cure the seal. Have had no starter problems since. Hope this helps some.

 

Posted

Hey all, sorry had a busy 2 days. My dealership replaced my started Friday and I picked it up around 3pm est. Woke up Saturday and went out to start it. It was around 10 deg outside. And was 13 degrees this morning when I started. Truck started up with no problem. Turned over a few times but fired up. Hope this solves everyones problems. I will keep everyone posted.

  • Like 1
Posted

Doing everything possible to cut costs while compromising parts quality often has negative consequences.

Posted

Hello, new member here,

I found this thread while Googling to see if anyone else has had this no-start issue. First, let me say, I really like this truck! I also want to report that my new '14 Sierra would not start after 1 day (75 miles) and in single digit (F) temps, remote or key. It would only click (sounded like the starter solenoid) and the battery checked full charged. Oddly, I got it to start by jumping it and immediately took it back to the dealer. My dealer was very good to me, gave me a loaner, and had my truck for almost 2 weeks. They claimed they found the battery cable was defective, measured a "high resistance" and had 2 other trucks come in with this same issue. After having the cable replaced and getting my truck back, it has started with no problems, in 400 miles, and temps have still been hovering around 0 as before. It seems this fixed the problem. Still like the truck!

  • Like 1
Posted

Took mine in this morning. Told them about you all having new starters installed and indication of a bad batch. They lifted an eyebrow and said they know of a problem with the 13's having bad starters but not 14's. I have a loaner for now while they try to diagnose it. I will post here the results when I know more.

 

Sent from my XT1055 using Tapatalk

 

 

Posted

This smells of some malfunction in the security system.

This is exactly what it is.. same thing happened to mine on day 2 of ownership. The tow company called me before coming out and told me what to do.

 

1. Hit the lock button on the key fob.

2. Hit the unlock button on the key fob.

3. Jump in truck and start 'er up.

 

And it started right up.. phew. Also, he said if that didn't work to put the key in the door and lock, unlock, lock, etc. to get the security to disable.

 

I don't know how the security system disabled it but it did and that fixed my problem quick. Hope this helps some of you!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hi friends - first time poster. I have a 2015 sierra Denali with 150k miles, I’m the second owner and she’s given me 75k of great service. I run a pulse AFM disable device. Starting Thursday when I exited the freeway after a short local ride it started idling rough, with an obvious misfire shake and was down on low end power.  I got it home and hooked it up to my scannner and found no codes but in live data a pretty bad misfire on cylinder 5. I replaced the coil, plug and wire with all new OE replacements (Delphi gn10165 coil, acdelco wire and 41-168 plug). It’s still behaving the same way after firing the parts cannon at it.   I know cyl 5 is a non AFM cylinder so I am not thinking this is AFM related but I’m kinda at a loss. injector? Bent pushrod? It’s running too well over 1k rpm to suggest those IMO. Has anyone chase this issue before and what was it? Any suggestions? 
    • 2017 Silverado L83 5.3l 6speed transmission Hello, not a new member but havent posted in a while and my old signup info isnt working so had to create a new account. anyways, I have an issue with my truck and hope someone can spread some light on whats happening: -when it goes to 4cyl mode it makes a clunk sound (but not when coasting or going downhill) -when in 4 cyl mode and under load it makes a load pulsating sound (not a tick). -goes away completely when in M5 gear or when plugging in an AFM delete. Im guessing it is one of 2 things but im not convinced of either to be honest. 1. lifter stuck in v8 mode 2. torque converter shudder realistically it doesn't seem like the TC as there is no physical vibration , and it never happens in v8 mode. but maybe? and wouldnt a lifter make a sound whether with load or not? any ideas let me know please. thank you!  
    • Which has made me wonder with the various engine failures of a few brands in the last few years, is it sub par materials such as lifters etc causing failures, or bearing clearances on the crank etc or perhaps bad designing of an engine physically or causing too much load on the components due to the hp/torque they can push out of them. Or is the oil viscosity and additive package of current oils or a lack of oil flow by an oil pump not able to supply sufficient oil at idle or under high load at low rpm. Or is it every item I listed that combined together has pushed the limits so far to the left that there is hardly a margin of safety left and add in some fuel dilution and too long of an OCI and premature engine failure is the result ?. 
    • He is not saying that an SAE *W20 will have more viscosity than a *W40 due to MORE VII polymers. He is saying that although multiple *W40 may post in the PDS the same or similar 100 C and 150 C viscosities that the blenders choice of modifier TYPE and AMOUNT to get his chosen base to grade will not give identical real world viscosities in shear and at temperature. All will pass the SII test but not all will pass the 100 C HTHS (unpublished value) testing the blender does and relies on to get the required by law "percentage improvement' referenced to his last great work.    Tis the problem with the lie. Once told others are required to support it. 
    • I have a `25, 1500 that auto sets on incline. Never knew that at first. I have the electronic shifter. Just think if it didn`t do that? Unlike a mechanical shift that you can muscle out of park, how would you get this thing out? That would be a problem.   What I found out later is, I don`t have to push the button to release. Just put it in gear.   Setting parameters? Don`t know if it`s possible.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...