Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Got that, but you said "tons of power" you lost me there.

 

He just means all the power all the time. before if you were in V4 it would take half a millisecond to switch to V8 mode then downshift to get moving. now it just downshifts and goes. It's subtle, but definitely noticeable.

Edited by fondupot
Posted

 

He just means all the power all the time. before if you were in V4 it would take half a millisecond to switch to V8 mode then downshift to get moving. now it just downshifts and goes. It's subtle, but definitely noticeable.

That's not what he said, no use going thru this again. The power will be the same, nuff said.

Posted (edited)

That's not what he said, no use going thru this again. The power will be the same, nuff said.

 

 

Yea, but what he says, and what he is trying to mean is different. I know the Range unit doesn't change ANY of the tuning in the truck. But if he claims that it changes the tuning...then well...that's just a troll.

Edited by fondupot
Posted

What he said is definitely misleading and its possible he may not have meant it, but its also possible that this gentlemen is not a gear head like we are and is more subject to the placebo effect than most. Just to clear up this claim that was previously stated about the Range Tech Module making tons of power, this is not true and is not what the manufacture has intended or claims... unless they have a new version out that comes with a 15lb blue bottle, solenoids,some nozzles and a wide open throttle switch.

  • Like 1
Posted

So do I read this right that the drone/shudder shouldn't be present with a stock exhaust? Maybe it's a flip of the coin, some do and some don't?

Mine's all stock and I have the "drone". I couldn't figure what the heck was going on. I thought I was having tranny issues. I read this thread and when I felt the change I checked the V8/V4,and sure enough every time it was in V4.

 

Other than that I don't have any issues with the transition from V8 to V4 or visa versa. It's smooth as glass at all speeds.

Posted

So do I read this right that the drone/shudder shouldn't be present with a stock exhaust? Maybe it's a flip of the coin, some do and some don't?

Mine's all stock and I have the "drone". I couldn't figure what the heck was going on. I thought I was having tranny issues. I read this thread and when I felt the change I checked the V8/V4,and sure enough every time it was in V4.

 

Other than that I don't have any issues with the transition from V8 to V4 or visa versa. It's smooth as glass at all speeds.

I'm assuming you have a 2014, if so... I wouldn't think you would have any noise or shudder whatsoever. I had absolutely no noticeable change confirming the change between V4/V8 besides the little icon on the dash.

Mine is a 2014 crew 2wd w/5.3

Posted

I'm assuming you have a 2014, if so... I wouldn't think you would have any noise or shudder whatsoever. I had absolutely no noticeable change confirming the change between V4/V8 besides the little icon on the dash.

Mine is a 2014 crew 2wd w/5.3

 

Yes,it's a 2014 4X4, 5.3 with a 3:42 rear. I do have the shudder for sure. Now I know without looking when it's in V4. Nothing at highway speeds (70 or so), but anything between 10-50 mph, I feel it.

Posted

 

Yes,it's a 2014 4X4, 5.3 with a 3:42 rear. I do have the shudder for sure. Now I know without looking when it's in V4. Nothing at highway speeds (70 or so), but anything between 10-50 mph, I feel it.

Odd, I wonder if the flapper valve in your exhaust is stuck open?

Posted

Odd, I wonder if the flapper valve in your exhaust is stuck open?

 

It's supposed to be really nice weather this weekend. I'll be able to goon under my truck for the first time. I'll definitely check the flapper.

Thanks! :)

Posted

 

It's supposed to be really nice weather this weekend. I'll be able to goon under my truck for the first time. I'll definitely check the flapper.

Thanks! :)

That would be a good start... The flapper can easily be manipulated with your fingers, any more resistance than that and I would lean towards that as the culprit.

Posted (edited)

@mzodrag

 I am trying to help here. You buy a truck and the damn thing drives around like a beaten **** in the so called V4 mode. Keep it like it is and go around a corner and punch and you get a bang when it comes out of V4. Get a grip. You bought the truck to drive it like a truck not a Prius.

Edited by txab
Posted (edited)

@mzodrag

You are a dick. I am trying to help here. You buy a truck and the damn thing drives around like a beaten **** in the so called V4 mode. Keep it like it is and go around a corner and punch and you get a bang when it comes out of fag V4. Get a grip. You bought the truck to drive it like a truck not a Prius. If this doesn't get banned I will be ****ing surprised. Either way. Adios

What are you Mr. semantics???

No what I am is a realist. How is it that your helping by your comments. Your comment on the range are misleading to others on this forum that may be considering it.

 

Yes I did buy a truck to drive like a truck, Hence the reason mine is tuned and the power is amazing. Semantics had nothing to do with my comments, what you stated was not true and I pointed that out. I questioned your comments and your reply is that I'm a dick. LoL.

 

Range does nothing more then disable v4.

Edited by mzodarg
Posted

@mzodrag

You are a dick. I am trying to help here. You buy a truck and the damn thing drives around like a beaten **** in the so called V4 mode. Keep it like it is and go around a corner and punch and you get a bang when it comes out of fag V4. Get a grip. You bought the truck to drive it like a truck not a Prius. If this doesn't get banned I will be ****ing surprised. Either way. Adios

What are you Mr. semantics???

I wouldn't take it personal, some people are direct and to the point and mean no harm. I bet if you took a poll most people that use that device would say it feels like more power. Heck people that do a tune in most cases gain 20 to 30 HP, but they change the driving feel, so it feels like more. You can get the same HP out of e85. I say my truck is a different truck in m5 and m6, other people would say Im nuts, so who is? Since I change my exhaust my truck vibrates in V4 under 60 so I don't go in 6 till after, no problem.

Posted

Here is a pick from my drive to V.A. from N.J. I would have loved to have the Range installed for on the way back to compare.

6apajy7y.jpge6u9y9yt.jpg

 

 

 

Tapatalk via Moto X

 

 

Posted

Odd, I wonder if the flapper valve in your exhaust is stuck open?

 

It was! Not much, but it was open a bit. I kept tightening the spring and letting go. Seems OK, but I think it should feel more free. I'll keep an eye on it. I could try some high heat lubricant. Not sure what course to take though, if it doesn't want to completely close.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,903
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    RyGuy43
    Newest Member
    RyGuy43
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 1 Anonymous, 559 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • consider doing electrical testing?  I would guess some power or ground wire/connection has a problem.   alldata.com has wiring diagrams, connector pinouts and diagnostic procedures you can use to find where the problem is.
    • can you tell if the reader is actually trying to get codes, and the pcm is reporting none, or is your reader just silently failing because it's not communicating with the pcm?
    • Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL
    • First off you mentioned "Toyo Says" and then gave the pressures 45/50, was this some person at the tire shop that pulled those numbers out of his head ?   Now of course I can't know your exact axle weights front and rear, however I have much the same pickup as yourself other than not knowing your starting weight as per the pounds the truck rolled out of the factory at due to the options yours did or didn't come with or what you have added beyond the extra tire weight. The correct way to know 100% where a person is at is by weighing each axle with the typical weight the vehicle is driven with and that means taking into account passengers and making sure you figure in a full tank of fuel and a little grace for whatever you may put in the bed "groceries" !    I am looking at and not that it really matters as all the tire companies use the same charts anyway, but I am looking at the comprehensive Toyo tire chart in the section that your tire falls under and I know it sounds confusing but your tire is not an LT metric tire like your factory tire but instead because its a standard inch measured tire its under a different category called an LT floatation series tire. That makes a difference as LT metric tires they don't want to see run below 35 psi at highway speed where as with the LT floatation series it can be run down to 25 psi on the highway as long as the weight on the said size of tire is agreeable with or less than that minimum 25 psi. It blows many people away that how is this physically possible, an empty truck for one thing and larger tires with the same size wheel diameter have a lot more air volume so they can carry the same weight as the smaller tire with less air pressure.    So my truck, I have the stock 275/65R20 wheels and tires and I have a bit of weight in the box with a bak flip cover and a rubber bed mat and some tools and spare gas. The front of my gas truck weighs a bit more than some trucks of the similar spec due to double batteries and alternators. However with full fuel and just me in the truck I am weighted such that I can run 40 front and 35 rear and so that is what I have done since day one.    If I base your truck at or slightly below the weight of my truck, in theory with your tires going by the tire chart you might be right around a minimum of 30 pounds front and 25 pounds rear. Of course that would hit pretty much minimum cold inflation pressure one could run with that tire size and a near empty truck. If you have access to an accurate weigh scale to do individual front and rear axle weights I would suggest you do that and make sure your topped up with fuel and whatever else in the truck before you weigh it and then you will have a great starting point to work off of and figure out what your bare minimum pressures are you can safely run. If you do much in the way of hot weather high speed driving, bumping up a bit for a safety margin is never a bad idea but just depends on what type of driving you do. I will include the Toyo chart and the floatation series sizes start on page 31. Without a doubt at these pressures I am speculating at minimum wise for your truck, it would most certainly ride very different then it did when you were using 55 lb front and rear.     https://www.toyotires.com/media/pxcjubjs/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20200723.pdf
    • Take an automotive stethoscope to the vacuum pump. Iirc those tick as well. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...